Convoy S21D w/ legendary Nichia 219b :) - Review & photo comparison w/ Nichia 519a & E21a (in D4V2) & other LED's.

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cannga
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NeutralFan wrote:
cannga wrote:
A big weakness of my testing so far is the comparison is against another brand’s non-fitting large purple lens, not Convoy OEM purple. I actually have bought and am waiting for an Aliexpress small purple lens that fits my S21D, but that is still not Convoy OEM. If you don’t mind sending/“selling” one of those spare purple lenses to me, please PM. My Convoy’s are S21D, M21 B, E, F, but would really like the S21D purple. Thanks.

Sorry, but 8 were the 20.5*1.6mm ar-coated glass lens ,suitable for Convoy S2/S2+/S3/S6/S9 BD03 flashlight and the other was for an S21A (23.2*1.4mm ar-coated glass lens ,suitable for Convoy S21A S21B).

Thanks for checking. I have this one on the way, 23.7 mm. Hopefully it’s the correct size and hopefully it’s a real bad AR purple so I could prove a point, that Convoy AR Green is magical Party : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256802980856881.html?spm=a2g0o.order_li...

stephenk wrote:
As well as an Opple, I also have a green AR glass Convoy S21E 519A 5700k in the post, that I can compare to a purple AR glass version. Will post the results and photos here.

Please do! For me it’s important to compare with other people’s results. I am sure you’ll have a lot of fun with the Opple. I’ve gotten better at measuring, and results are more stable and consistent.

BTW a few things I do that have helped for Duv measurements, in case you find it helpful: I keep distance between sensor and light short (1-2 ft) so that it’s easier to keep center of beam on center of sensor and incident angle perpendicular (I’d better be careful with these math terms with QReciprocity42 around. Smile ), use a lower brightness level so the light doesn’t step up and down too much (for me Convoy which settles at that 40% level seems easier to work with than Wurkkos & Anduril, which goes up and down a lot), let the light warm up – Wurkkos TS21’s Duv for example keeps dropping slowly over the 20 minutes after turn on.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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cannga wrote:
Not too long ago I was nit picking and memorizing lumens and throws of Amazon flashlights, looking for a bright light for our evening walk along a nature trail in our neighborhood. Since then, the hobby somehow has made an abrupt left turn towards color quality of the beam , and here I am with a bunch of Nichia’s, generally considered the “best” in the business when it comes to color quality and accuracy (CRI)……….

Interesting/Fun Posts:

  • 4 Lights I would buy were I to start from beginning Click HERE

  • Convoy Accessories HERE

  • Summary of Impression of 219b 4500K vs 519a 4500k vs E21a 4500K HERE

  • Info and comparison of TIR optics for Convoy S21D and Emisar D4V2 HERE

  • Comparison of effects of Convoy “Green Tint” AR Lens on Duv HERE and white-wall beamshot HERE

  • Specs: CCT, Ra, R9 measured by Simon, and some by me HERE

  • Photographic comparison with E21a 4500K HERE

  • Beautiful Nichia 219b 4500K & 3500K in Convoy H2 HEADLAMP H2 HERE and HERE

  • Brightness of Convoy S21D vs Emisar D4V2 over time HERE

I added to the first page an index of the posts that I’ve wasted the most amount of time on Facepalm Smile . Hope it helps for anyone looking to waste time reading about Convoy.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Ryzbor
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Has anyone had the chance to compare the 5700K 519A with the 5000K variant?

I’m a bit afraid the 5700K is noticeably rosy while I’m seeking for a more neutral tint.

QReciprocity42
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I have the 5700K and 5000K but can't post comparisons because I don't have enough hosts to build them in. While domed, they are visually completely neutral, not rosy at all. Same goes for all domed 519As, really. It's when you dedome that you see noticeable rosiness.

cannga
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cannga wrote:

Duv values for Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500K
The color refers to a reflection of ceiling light bulb on the lens, NOT any tint I could see…

1. No lens: -0.0127
2. Convoy AR Green-reflection lens : -0.0124 CCT 4471
3. Wurkkos Non-AR: -0.0123
4. UCL AR Blue: -0.0123
5. UCL AR Purple: -0.0102 (Duv change: ~0.0020 more positive) CCT 4365


The Nichia 219c 5000K in my Wurkkos TS21 seems to define daylight neutral tint (why I think it is a must have even though I prefer warmer color), CCT 5000K & sporting Duv -0.0004 at turn on, and -0.0020 after heating up (anything in the teen or below is still very close to BBL). NOTE: I could not remove the OEM non-AR lens so this next comparison is basically various lenses placed OVER it. Not the best, but better than nothing.

For Convoy AR Green lens, I took the lens from my beloved M21E w/ GT-FC40 (the only thrower with Nichia-like tint on market). The rest are UCL lenses from https://flashlightlens.com/apps_specs/. Using a tripod and raising the Opple so sensor matches the light’s hotspot, the numbers have been consistent (also helps that I seemed to spend hours doing it Facepalm Smile ) . Once again the Convoy AR Green seems to be the star of the show. I will post some beamshot next to see how noticeable a 20 point Duv change is around the BBL.

1. Wurkkos OEM (equivalence of “no lens”): -0.0020
2. OEM + Convoy AR Green: -0.0023 
3. OEM + Wurkkos Non-AR: -0.0018
4. OEM + UCL AR Blue: -0.0016
5. OEM + UCL AR Purple: -0.0003 (Duv change 0.0020 - same as with S21D test)

 

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

QReciprocity42
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Thank you so much for doing the comparisons!

I totally forgot to account for the fact that a non-coated lens actually changes duv, shifting it toward green, due to iron impurities in the glass! This implies that swapping an uncoated lens for a green AR lens actually reduces more green than just slapping a green AR lens in front of it--in your case, the difference is -0.0005 going from uncoated to green AR, and -0.0003 from nothing to green AR.

Out of curiosity: do you have a pair of AR coated eyeglasses? If so, does it seem to alter tint?

cannga
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QReciprocity42 wrote:

Thank you so much for doing the comparisons!

I totally forgot to account for the fact that a non-coated lens actually changes duv, shifting it toward green, due to iron impurities in the glass! This implies that swapping an uncoated lens for a green AR lens actually reduces more green than just slapping a green AR lens in front of it—in your case, the difference is -0.0005 going from uncoated to green AR, and -0.0003 from nothing to green AR.

Out of curiosity: do you have a pair of AR coated eyeglasses? If so, does it seem to alter tint?

I understand your logic even though I had to go back and forth a few times. Smile

We are very much on the same track. I posted about my AR eyeglasses previously; looking for reassurance that Convoy AR Green is actually doing the right thing. I have several AR pairs accumulated over the years from different brands/manufacturers, without fail, all reflect green when placed under ceiling lights.

For anyone curious about testing your lenses and glasses: I stand under ceiling light and look straight down on the glass looking for reflection. Straight down, NOT at an angle (sometimes green becomes purple, yellow, etc. when you look at an angle). This reflection looks that way because it’s under a chandelier with 6 light bulbs.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

QReciprocity42
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Thank you for the reminder--I somehow completely forgot that this thread already contains your test of eyeglasses!

cannga wrote:
+Straight down, NOT at an angle+ (sometimes green becomes purple, yellow, etc. when you look at an angle).

This is EXACTLY why green AR corrects angular tint shift!

bobvoeh
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This is interesting. I have several Convoy S2+ Hosts I’ve built, and the lenses do not show green or purple, so that means they are not AR. I have one host with Nichia SW45K emitters which I cracked the lens, oops. I ordered a replacement AR Coated lens from Simon on AE and have been using it since with no issues. After reading all this, I just checked and its the Green AR Yay! I have 2 other hosts I’m going to build with SW35k and SW27k so I’m glad I ordered extra lenses. Thank you for all the work you have put into this.

Do you think that the Green AR lenses would have any benefit on lights with Deep Red, Royal Blue or Green emitters or should I just leave the non AR lenses on those?

QReciprocity42
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Green AR lens will have slightly better (probably 3%-ish if I had to guess) transmission than non-coated, but since tint is not a concern for color emitters, it's probably not worth the cost to upgrade.

cannga
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bobvoeh wrote:
This is interesting. I have several Convoy S2+ Hosts I’ve built, and the lenses do not show green or purple, so that means they are not AR. I have one host with Nichia SW45K emitters which I cracked the lens, oops. I ordered a replacement AR Coated lens from Simon on AE and have been using it since with no issues. After reading all this, I just checked and its the Green AR Yay! I have 2 other hosts I’m going to build with SW35k and SW27k so I’m glad I ordered extra lenses. Thank you for all the work you have put into this….

You’re very welcome. This “green tint” so puzzled me once (because if I just look at the lens, there really is no green “tint”) that I made a youtube video. Party Much easier to use the ceiling light bulb reflection test. Note that a flat angle you’ll see purple; only when you look straight down on the lens that the green reflection is seen.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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QReciprocity42 wrote:

Green AR lens will have slightly better (probably 3%-ish if I had to guess) transmission than non-coated, but since tint is not a concern for color emitters, it’s probably not worth the cost to upgrade.

I just looked at my result and can’t help but have a chuckle. I appreciate your sharp mind. It’s as if you had looked at my cheat sheet; but actually it makes me feel very good and somewhat assured that my humble home test results are no BS. Party

1. UCL AR Purple: will set this at 100%
2. UCL AR Blue: 99%
3. Convoy AR Green: 98.5% (3.5% just to exactly match your “ish” lol)
4. Wurkkos Non AR 95%

When it comes to light transmission, for some odd reason the table is turned, oddly in reverse order of Duv listing. The UCL purple was horrible with Duv change but now is the star of the show (btw previously I measured about 98.4% transmission vs no lens using ceiling bounce HERE). I did 6 runs with the above test; hotspot on sensor this time (vs ceiling bounce), and the results surprised me with how consistent they were, considering the Wurkkos TS21 is a lousy light to test because of its numerous stepdowns.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

QReciprocity42
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cannga wrote:

I just looked at my result and can't help but have a chuckle. I appreciate your sharp mind. It's as if you had looked at my cheat sheet; but actually it makes me feel very good and somewhat assured that my humble home test results are no BS.

Thank you--I'm a bit surprised myself with the guess. 95% is really good for uncoated; I've seen estimates like 92-93% thrown around on the internet. Probably depends on glass quality; some have more or less iron impurities (which manifest in green tint if you look at the lateral side of the lens). I would guess 4-5% for purple based on some random tests I've seen but can't recall, and figured that green would be a bit lower on the lumen count, reasoning below...

cannga wrote:

When it comes to light transmission, for some odd reason the table is turned, +oddly in reverse order of Duv+ listing. The +UCL purple+ was horrible with Duv change but now is the +star of the show+

For the same amount of radiometric output, green contributes a lot more to the lumen count than purple, which is formed by blue and red at the tails of the luminosity function. The tails of this function exhibit very fast exponential-like decay, so the sensitivity difference between green and purple would be huge, on different orders of magnitude. Since green AR throws away green--the color contributing most to the lumen count--from the spectrum, you would expect more lumen loss.

It is a sad reality that given the same radiometric output, making tint more magenta necessarily induces a loss in lumens. (This is one reason why some emitters with higher flux bins tend to be greener, while lower flux bins have a better chance of being magenta.) Thus, when tint is concerned, a few % output loss should not really be considered as an inefficiency at all.

cannga
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cannga wrote:
cannga wrote:

Duv values for Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500K…

1. No lens: -0.0127
2. Convoy AR Green-reflection lens : -0.0124 CCT 4471
3. Wurkkos Non-AR: -0.0123
4. UCL AR Blue: -0.0123
5. UCL AR Purple: -0.0102 (Duv change: ~0.0020 more positive) CCT 4365


The Nichia 219c 5000K in my Wurkkos TS21 seems to define daylight neutral tint (why I think it is a must have even though I prefer warmer color), CCT 5000K & sporting Duv -0.0004 at turn on, and -0.0020 after heating up (anything in the teen or below is still very close to BBL).

1. Wurkkos OEM (equivalence of “no lens”): -0.0020
2. OEM + Convoy AR Green: -0.0023 
3. OEM + Wurkkos Non-AR: -0.0018
4. OEM + UCL AR Blue: -0.0016
5. OEM + UCL AR Purple: -0.0003 (Duv change 0.0020 - same as with S21D test)
 

Beamshots of Convoy AR Green versus UCL AR Purple in the 2 lights, one with 219b 4500K and one with 219c 5000K.
Showing what a 0.0020 Duv gain does to the color of the beam.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Wurkkos OEM (“no lens”) versus Wurkkos with Convoy AR Green. A small 0.0003 Duv difference. The color difference is there, but very slight. I would not want to take a blind test to determine which is which Smile .

I am reposting a similar Convoy AR Green vs No Lens comparison, except with a LED that’s much further from the BBL line, the 219b 4500K in S21D. Again, the color difference is there. Slight maybe, but there.

For me, this comparison versus “No Lens” shows Convoy AR Green is fantastic but is not going to perform magic and turns a Cree into Nichia for example. Mainly, it doesn’t do any harm to Duv like the UCL AR Purple.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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stephenk wrote:
nicodimus22 wrote:

Out of curiosity, what does this mean in layman’s terms? I already have the 12A version, so I’m wondering what changes if you get the 8A. Differences in output or runtime?

The 8A version is more efficient, and is this likely to result in higher sustained brightness, and longer, but not quite as bright turbo.
I’ve just ordered the 8A CC 60 degree 519A 5700k version.

A couple months ago we had the above exchange – the question was about behavior of 8A Buck versus 12A FET, the 2 versions of Convoy S21D. Thanks to @bilakos10’s review of the FET 12A HERE, we now have an approximate answer, and it looks like stephenk hit it on the nose. Thumbs Up Smile

The 12A FET driver indeed has a brighter max start ~2800 lm, but then stepdowns quickly and rather drastically, to 350 lm, 12% of max after just 2 minutes.

The yellow letter X superimposed on bilakos10’s 12A FET graph represent numbers from the 8A Buck version of the light. They are approximate ceiling bounce numbers, where I assumed 100% is 2000 lumens. Even though the 8A Buck is not as bright at start, it has a much more gradual and gentle stepdown. In addition, it sustains brightness much better, settling in at ~750 lm.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Looking at the above runtime graph reminds me of this puzzle, a question I always have about my Convoy: if the thermal limit is set at 55°, why do I measure 60° at the head during my runtime tests?. In fact during my runtime comparisons, the Convoy always measures the hottest among the lights I have. Most lights stays at 40-50° at the head, versus 60°.

Here is my attempt at explaining this discrepancy. Essentially it is true what Simon says, there is a thermal limit of 55° and it does trigger stepdown. However the stepdown is limited to a power level that is preset at factory. This level is fixed, regardless of what the temperature is. This would explain why my Anduril lights are all over the place with brightness output, and my Convoy is a flatline with hardly any up or down regulation.

Not complaining at all. The flat output is one reason why I love my Convoy’s. Anyway, I am not sure if my “theory” is correct at all. Please take the “explanation” with a table-size grain of salt and correct me as needed.

Flashlight porn to spice up this somewhat dry topic. I have dual citizenship lol so you’ll have to put up with my love for Emisar D4V2. They are like little jewels that fit perfect, PERFECT, in the hands. Enjoy your Convoy but do get an Emisar one of these days to know what the hype is about Innocent .

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Ryzbor
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My question would be which light will be able to sustain a higher output on identical leds, the S12D with the 8A buck driver or a D4K/D4 with the 8A boost driver.

stephenk
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Ryzbor wrote:
My question would be which light will be able to sustain a higher output on identical leds, the S12D with the 8A buck driver or a D4K/D4 with the 8A boost driver.

Might be close but with similar calibration I think the S21D would have the edge due to the more basic temp regulation algorithm.
cannga
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cannga wrote:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1874496#comment-1874496
…..Where the S21D is better, is prolonged brightness. In real life use, I have noticed that the D4V2 starts bright but then becomes too dim to use for me as a walk light. Photographs also show a dimmer, smaller beam versus S21D….The 2 lights start at roughly same brightness level, but watch the difference in subsequent stepdowns.

D4V2: 100% start, 40% at 2 minutes, 28% at 5 minutes, 22% at 10 minutes
S21D : 100% start, 85% at 2 minutes, 68% at 5 minutes, 39 % at 10 minutes

Roughly, 90 seconds after Turbo start, Convoy S21D’s lumen values are twice those of D4V2’s…..

Interesting discussion. I made some comparison of S21D versus D4V2 previously, but only with the NON-boost driver version of my D4V2.

I am not sure if the sustained brightness is related to the driver, or more to the stepdown algorithm that Convoy uses (basically a fixed lower limit that a Convoy light will not go lower, regardles of temp)? In other words, if D4V2 with boost driver has the same thermal regulation algorithm as the non-Boost, wouldn’t it step down just as much?

Looking at S21D FET vs S21D Buck above, I wonder the same thing. Is the drastic runtime difference due to difference in driver, or difference in thermal regulation algorithm? I didn’t think flashlight could be so complicated and interesting. Smile

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Ryzbor
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cannga wrote:
I made some comparison of S21D versus D4V2 previously, but only with the NON-boost driver version of my D4V2.

Which exact driver (boost 8A?) is in the D4V2?

stephenk
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Right, back to the green vs purple AR glass. This is my testing with Convoy S21Es on 40% mode, hotspot measurement. Opple Lightmaster 3 Pro.
2700k green AR 2681k 97.9Ra +0.0010 DUV
5700k green AR 5147k 98.1Ra -0.0013 DUV
5700k purple AR 5157k 98.3Ra +0.0018 DUV

cannga
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stephenk wrote:
Right, back to the green vs purple AR glass. This is my testing with Convoy S21Es on 40% mode, hotspot measurement. Opple Lightmaster 3 Pro.

1. 2700k green AR 2681k 97.9Ra +0.0010 DUV

2. 5700k green AR 5147k 98.1Ra -0.0013 DUV

3. 5700k purple AR 5157k 98.3Ra +0.0018 DUV

The lens switch is between 2 & 3 right? If so, that’s about a 30 point raise in the Duv? We are getting results that are very close. Mine has been about a 20 point raise from green to purple (not purple to green lol – I’m confused, and can be confusing).

Ryzbor wrote:
Which exact driver (boost 8A?) is in the D4V2?

Sorry for the confusion. My D4V2’s are all regular, NON-boost version. AFAIK this means CC 9A for the 219b D4V2, and CC 5A for the E21a D4V2.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

stephenk
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cannga wrote:
stephenk wrote:
Right, back to the green vs purple AR glass. This is my testing with Convoy S21Es on 40% mode, hotspot measurement. Opple Lightmaster 3 Pro.

1. 2700k green AR 2681k 97.9Ra +0.0010 DUV

2. 5700k green AR 5147k 98.1Ra -0.0013 DUV

3. 5700k purple AR 5157k 98.3Ra +0.0018 DUV

The lens switch is between 2 & 3 right? If so, that’s about a 30 point raise in the Duv? We are getting results that are very close. Mine has been about a 20 point raise from purple to green.


Yes, the lens switch (both Convoy lenses) is 2 to 3. I took a few measurements and would say there is a +/- 0.0006 margin of error of hotspot aiming. There is certainly a significant difference between the Purple and Green, though both are perfectly neutral when not compared side by side. The purple had marginally higher lux, but the difference was not significant.
cannga
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stephenk wrote:
cannga wrote:
stephenk wrote:
Right, back to the green vs purple AR glass. This is my testing with Convoy S21Es on 40% mode, hotspot measurement. Opple Lightmaster 3 Pro.

1. 2700k green AR 2681k 97.9Ra +0.0010 DUV

2. 5700k green AR 5147k 98.1Ra -0.0013 DUV

3. 5700k purple AR 5157k 98.3Ra +0.0018 DUV

The lens switch is between 2 & 3 right? If so, that’s about a 30 point raise in the Duv? We are getting results that are very close. Mine has been about a 20 point raise from purple to green.


Yes, the lens switch (both Convoy lenses) is 2 to 3. I took a few measurements and would say there is a +/- 0.0006 margin of error of hotspot aiming. There is certainly a significant difference between the Purple and Green, though both are perfectly neutral when not compared side by side. The purple had marginally higher lux, but the difference was not significant.

Thank you. I did another round of testing with new AR purple and Non-AR lenses that fit S21D (I bought just for testing). Results again follow the same trend:
1. From our findings, AR Green drops Duv about 20-30 points from AR Purple.
2. It may also decrease Duv from non-AR lens and from no-lens, but to a much lesser degree. I call this “active-rosying” lol.
3. AR Green is not as good at light transmission vs Purple, but we are talking about 3-4 percent – not relevant from Nichia hobbyists’ perspective, and for example absolutely nothing compared to stepdown loss. I do use AR Purple when I am trying to hit 1000m throw for my TS30S for example, but that’s about the only time I care.

I have not had so much fun with flashlight since I got the Opple. And I am glad you got one too to confirm and thanks for doing the test.

Are we the first people who quantify Duv change of AR Green vs AR purple? Thumbs Up Smile That would be cool.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

stephenk
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We aren’t the first, as Simon was already talked into green AR as default for S2+ 519A. Not sure why green AR wasn’t default for S21E 519A.

cannga
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During the lens comparison I noticed Duv would drift downward the longer the LED is on. As if it’s part of warming up. Because I have nothing better to do I ran another test to see how much and how fast this drift is.

These are numbers from S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k. Brightness is 2 down from max, 10% (?). The light is on tripod as usual and in this setup I could see x,y coordinates drifting slowly 1 or 2 points at a time (4th significant figure).

Start: Duv -0.0084 CCT 4455
5 min: Duv -0.0088 CCT 4466
10 min: Duv -0.0091 CCT 4470
15 min: Duv -0.0093 CCT 4471
20 min: Duv -0.0094 CCT 4473
25 min: Duv -0.0095 CCT 4475
30 min: Duv -0.0096 CCT 4478

So Duv dropped about 12 points while the LED is heating up, and was still drifting slowly when I got bore and terminated test. I’ve seen the same thing with my 519a LED. (EDIT @ 25 min)

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

QReciprocity42
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cannga wrote:
Start: Duv *-0.0084 CCT 4455* 5 min: Duv -0.0088 CCT 4466 10 min: Duv -0.0091 CCT 4470 15 min: Duv -0.0093 CCT 4471 20 min: Duv -0.0094 CCT 4473 25 min: Duv -0.0075 CCT 4475 30 min: Duv *-0.0096 CCT 4478* So Duv dropped about 12 points while the LED is heating up, and was still drifting slowly when I got bore and terminated test. I've seen the same thing with my 519a LED.

Is there a reason for the sudden discontinuity at 25 min?

cannga
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QReciprocity42 wrote:

cannga wrote:
Start: Duv -0.0084 CCT 4455 5 min: Duv -0.0088 CCT 4466 10 min: Duv -0.0091 CCT 4470 15 min: Duv -0.0093 CCT 4471 20 min: Duv -0.0094 CCT 4473 25 min: Duv -0.0075 CCT 4475 30 min: Duv -0.0096 CCT 4478 So Duv dropped about 12 points while the LED is heating up, and was still drifting slowly when I got bore and terminated test. I’ve seen the same thing with my 519a LED.

Is there a reason for the sudden discontinuity at 25 min?

Thanks for your eagle eye attention. The reason was probably someone interrupting me during my lunch break. Smile

25 minute: x 0.3581, y 0.3430
Duv -0.0095 CCT 4475

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

QReciprocity42
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cannga wrote:
The reason was probably someone interrupting me during my lunch break. Smile 25 minute: x 0.3581, y 0.3430 Duv -0.0095 CCT 4475

Makes sense, thank you for the clarification!

The drop in duv and rise in CCT seems to suggest that more blue is leaking through the phosphor--I guess the phosphor has slightly worse performance when hot.

Another related (?) phenomenon I observed yesterday: I was messing with a Convoy S2+ 519A triple running on a 4-mode 5A driver and protected 5A battery. I've had the light for a month and used the turbo lightly, no issues. Yesterday I ran it a bit too hot, and it tripped the cell's protection circuit! I guess that heat somehow also causes higher current draw (through lowering forward voltage), which might also cause more blue to leak out as the phosphor comes closer to being saturated.

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