Convoy S21D w/ legendary Nichia 219b :) - Review & photo comparison w/ Nichia 519a & E21a (in D4V2) & other LED's.

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cannga
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cannga wrote:

These are numbers from S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k. Brightness set at 10%. The light is on tripod as usual and in this setup I could see x,y coordinates drifting slowly 1 or 2 points at a time (4th significant figure).

Start: Duv -0.0084 CCT 4455
5 min: Duv -0.0088 CCT 4466
10 min: Duv -0.0091 CCT 4470
15 min: Duv -0.0093 CCT 4471
20 min: Duv -0.0094 CCT 4473
25 min: Duv -0.0095 CCT 4475
30 min: Duv -0.0096 CCT 4478

So Duv dropped about 12 points while the LED is heating up, and was still drifting slowly when I got bore and terminated test. I’ve seen the same thing with my 519a LED. (EDIT @ 25 min)

From AR lens Duv comparison to Duv drop with time and heat, the last couple pages of this thread contain the most fun and relevant discussion for me, all thanks to the humble Opple. And the tests are easy: the main thing is to NOT move the light or sensor once you’ve set them on stable platform. I repeated test, but with Nichia 519a 4500k, 10 degree clear lens, brightness 20%. Sensor 12 inches from light.

Start: Duv -0.0008 CCT 3876
5 min: Duv -0.0017 CCT 3849
10 min: Duv -0.0020 CCT 3840
15 min: Duv -0.0022 CCT 3834
20 min: Duv -0.0025 CCT 3825
25 min: Duv -0.0026 CCT 3822
30 min: Duv -0.0027 CCT 3818

A few things I noticed:
1. The Duv drops ~20 points after 30 minutes, even more than with 219b. Now I know, if I do the “wave test” (waving the light on the Opple) Smile I will get a more positive Duv.
2. As LED heats up, CCT of 519a goes down, in opposite direction to 219b.
3. I previously wrote that the beam of 519a 4500k has a golden tone here, now I know why it does. The actual CCT of my 519a 4500k is ~3800k (plan to re-test with 60 Degree Bead lens). This LED should really be compared to 219b 3500k, not 4500k.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Flashlight fun pic Wink , my beloved Emisar D4V2’s (background is a To’ere slit drum btw). These guys I keep in my bedroom because they are pretty, especially with the aux lights on full blast, parasitic drain be damned lol. The knurling and matte anodized finish are truly first class.

The pink aux light is actually my most favorite (in the sand colored Emisar). Somehow it sparkles more to my eyes, diamond like.

PS I know these are not Convoy but lots of us do have dual Convoy-Emisar “citizenship.”

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

bobvoeh
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Can’t agree more. I love my Emisars and Noctigons, but that doesn’t mean I don’t love the S2+ Convoy triples I’ve built. To quote something I’ve read here on BLF, “S2+‘s multiply like rabbits” (or something to that effect).

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cannga wrote:

Thank you. I did another round of testing with new AR purple and Non-AR lenses that fit S21D (I bought just for testing). Results again follow the same trend:
1. From our findings, AR Green drops Duv about 20-30 points from AR Purple.
2. It may also decrease Duv from non-AR lens and from no-lens, but to a much lesser degree. I call this “active-rosying” lol.
3. AR Green is not as good at light transmission vs Purple, but we are talking about 3-4 percent – not relevant from Nichia hobbyists’ perspective, and for example absolutely nothing compared to stepdown loss. I do use AR Purple when I am trying to hit 1000m throw for my TS30S for example, but that’s about the only time I care.

A purple AR lens is advantageous when the LED is already rosy or too rosy.

I swapped out many purple AR lenses to green, but left it in my triple 219B sw45k flashlight since it was already very rosy. Same with dedomed 519A LEDs since they are very rosy.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

cannga
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(Relevant/interesting post from my other Convoy thread)
From Turbo start, percentage of max brightness where each flashlight settles after stepdowns (in general within 10 minutes after start) using ceiling bounce method. I checked these numbers because for the way I use my flashlight (as a walk light, duration ~50 min), where the light settles (the sustained brightness) is most important. Lights that settle at too low level are not good for me because then I would have to re-push button, then it would get dim again etc.

1. Convoy Headlamp H2 w/ Nichia 219b: 61%
2. Convoy S21D w/ Nichia 219b and 519a: 37-40%
3. Convoy M21E, F, and B w/ Getian GT-FC40: 35-37%
4. Nitecore MH12S w/ SST40: 33%
5. Fenix Headlamp HM65R-T w/ SST40: 32%
6. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b: 22-26%
7. Wurkkos TS30S w/ SBT90.2: 16%
8. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 60° Max Temp: 16%
9. Coast XPH30R Headlamp: 15%

As some of us have observed, Convoy lights tend to settle at highest level, that’s partly why I love them. All Convoy lights stay bright but the Convoy H2 headlamp with Nichia 219b in particular is fantastic and extremely highly recommended as headlamp for evening walk/exploration (keep in mind it is heavy so you need to buy headstrap with a top strap like this one). The Nitecore MH12S, one of my favorite throw lights, is not bad.
The few Anduril lights that I have tend to settle at the lowest percentage, especially Wurkkos, even after thermal limit has been raised. But note that 16% of the monster SBT90.2 LED in the Wurkkos is still the brightest light in my collection Thumbs Up Smile .

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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From this small sample of my own lights above, it should be very obvious that the lights with proprietary UI, Convoy, Nicecore, and Fenix, are at the top, and the lights with Anduril (all calibrated and with raised max thermal limit to 50-55 C) are at the bottom.

The question is whether this could be corrected were I to raise my Anduril lights to 60° C. Luxwad in his excellent review did the comparison but the results are mixed, and the percentage still tops out at only 1000/4500 = 22%. Is it because the monster SBT90.2 just outputs so much heat, or is it the inherent nature of Anduril’s auto regulation?

Now I am curious and would like to test myself. The only problem is I don’t have a light with similar LED’s heat and host’s thermal mass profile as the non Anduril lights above. Either the small D4V2 and equally small TS21 will have to do. Fenix headlamp is small too and it has high stepdown brightness.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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cannga wrote:
  • 4 Lights I would buy were I to start from beginning Click HERE

  • Convoy Accessories HERE

  • Summary of Impression of 219b 4500K vs 519a 4500k vs E21a 4500K HERE

  • Info and comparison of TIR optics for Convoy S21D and Emisar D4V2 HERE

  • Comparison of Duv Effects of Convoy “Green Reflection” (it’s a reflection not a tint Smile ) AR Lens (it makes Duv about 20 points more negative) HERE and white-wall beamshot HERE

  • Duv dropping ~20 points as Nichia 519a LED heats up with time HERE

  • Specs: CCT, Ra, R9 measured by Simon, and some by me HERE

  • Photographic comparison with E21a 4500K HERE

  • Beautiful Nichia 219b 4500K & 3500K in a Convoy HEADLAMP H2 HERE and HERE

  • Great Sustained Brightness of Convoy S21D and M21B-E-F HERE and vs D4V2 HERE

  • 8A Buck Driver versus 12A FET Driver – comparison of brightness and runtime graph HERE

Just updated the index on page 1 of the interesting or fun posts that I’ve wasted the most amount of time on Facepalm Smile . Hope it helps for anyone looking to waste time reading about Convoy. The list has become more lengthy thanks to Opple Light Master.

And flashlight fun picture of the copper Emisar D4V2 with its copper finish. I chose green aux, green button lights. The copper has aged beautifully since new.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Redo test and ranking for final brightness percentage from a Turbo run-down, using ceiling bounce test. Please skip this if you’ve seen it in my other Convoy thread – allow me to double post since I think it’s interesting and don’t want future readers to miss it lol.

Convoy still on top, and 60° C limit didn’t help Anduril lights much. Please note these are small Anduril lights; I don’t have similar larger lights with larger thermal mass. Well the Wurkkos TS30S does have larger thermal mass, but it has that crazy SBT90.2 LED.

I plan to edit/update this list if/when I buy more lights since IMHO it’s such an important parameter for a walk light, where lights are on for long duration. Please note this is a “home test” and values may change if I repeat any test when I’m less lazy Smile and find errors. As always, hope this helps.

1. Convoy Headlamp H2 w/ Nichia 219b 4500k: 61%
2. Convoy S21D w/ Nichia 219b 4500k and 519a: 37-40%
3. Convoy M21E, F, and B w/ Getian GT-FC40: 35-37%
4. Nitecore MH12S w/ SST40: 33%
5. Fenix Headlamp HM65R-T w/ SST40: 32%
6. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 4500k w/ 70° Tmax : 30% (int temp 64° C, ext temp 59° C, cannot hold w/ bare hand)
7. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 4500k w/ 60° Tmax : 23%
8. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 70° Tmax: 22%
9. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 60° Tmax: 16%
10. Wurkkos TS30S w/ SBT90.2: 16%
11. Coast XPH30R Headlamp: 15%
12. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b w/ 45° Tmax: 14%
13. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 45° Tmax: 8% Facepalm Sick my poor Wurkkos, at least the LED is a gem

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Some other observations:

1. At 60° C, my Anduril lights are still at the bottom as far as sustained brightness. Brightness tends to drop very fast in the first few minutes, off a cliff vs my Convoy and Nitecore that have proprietary UI, at least based on my limited test.
2. Unequivocal evidence that the thermal limit makes a big difference in both prolonged initial brightness AND the final brightness. (Reading reviews of other Anduril flashlights this has not always been clear cut to me.) This is a good sign that Anduril auto regulation is working exactly as intended.
3. When I set Wurkkos and Emisar D4V2 to 60° C max, the external temp as measured by my IR gun is around 50-55° C at the head. What this may imply (meaning I’m speculating) is that the internal temp of Convoy MAY be even higher than the 60 that I’ve measured externally at the head.
4. When I reset my Wurkkos and Emisar to factory setting, the temp read 8 C° and 12 C° respectively, where it should be around 20° C. If I didn’t re-calibrate, then this would bring the max limit to something 10° C higher than set (I hope I’m not losing you here Smile ). Basically this is a way to cheat and increase T max of Anduril . Not recommending, just noting.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

quahog
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cannga wrote:
When I reset my Wurkkos and Emisar to factory setting, the temp read 8 C° and 12 C° respectively, where it should be around 20° C.

Did you factory reset while the light was hot (around 30-ish degrees it would seem)?

Factory reset assumes the light is around room temp (21°C) and sets the temperature offset based on that.

jon_slider
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cannga wrote:
When I reset my Wurkkos and Emisar to factory setting, the temp read 8 C° and 12 C° respectively, where it should be around 20° C.
Like you, I do not rely on factory reset. I confirm w IR thermometer, and calibrate the flashlight to match.

Otherwise my Sofirn SC21 Pro will set itself to 8-11C lower than reality. My Wurkkos TS10 after factory reset reads 1-3C lower than reality, I recalibrate to match my IR reading.

After recalibrating, I confirm using the Temp Check on the light, that it matches the IR Temp.

cannga
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quahog wrote:
cannga wrote:
When I reset my Wurkkos and Emisar to factory setting, the temp read 8 C° and 12 C° respectively, where it should be around 20° C.

Did you factory reset while the light was hot (around 30-ish degrees it would seem)?

Factory reset assumes the light is around room temp (21°C) and sets the temperature offset based on that.

Thanks. This is an excellent point that I did not think about. My lights are all set to one click to Turbo (150) so it’s entirely possible. I was playing around with them at the time of the reset.

This is why I enjoy posting on BLF. I learn a lot from the responses.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Got some $ from Olight M2R refund and couldn’t resist yet another Convoy (3 Olight $ = 10 Convoys) SmileMAO M21B w/ B35AM 4500k . Very interesting that this is essentially four E21a? I have taken several beamshots of E21a (for example here) and by now fairly familiar with it ; really curious what the B35AM beamshot will look like.

Some info of B35AM below. I wonder why this would have a “donut free” beam – secondary to the gapless configuration? I thought that’s an issue related to focus positioning of reflector & LED.

https://www.eurekatronix.com/product-page/nichia-b35ax
Near gapless configuration of 4x E21A die size on a ceramic package with phosphors deposited in between the seams. This 3,65mm x 3,65mm LED is a miniaturization of the bigger 144A (5mm x 5mm) but with color quality and CCT range of E series. Although the max output and current capabilities are less than normal 4x E21A setup, the tighter uniform “donut free” beam and robust ceramic package makes this LED easier to implement where tight beam control is required. The white reflector “fence” make sure most of the light directed upwards and reduce the color shift over angle. Designed for high power (8 watts) narrow beam directional lighting with broad range of CCT (from 2700K to 7500K) and available in various CRI (Rnn, R70. R8000, R9050, R9080).

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

lfb
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cannga wrote:
Got some $ from Olight M2R refund and couldn’t resist yet another Convoy (3 Olight $ = 10 Convoys) SmileMAO M21B w/ B35AM 4500k . Very interesting that this is essentially four E21a? I have taken several beamshots of E21a (for example here) and by now fairly familiar with it ; really curious what the beamshot will look like.

Some info of B35AM below. I wonder why this would have a “donut free” beam – secondary to the gapless configuration? I thought that’s an issue related to focus positioning of reflector & LED.

https://www.eurekatronix.com/product-page/nichia-b35ax
Near gapless configuration of 4x E21A die size on a ceramic package with phosphors deposited in between the seams. This 3,65mm x 3,65mm LED is a miniaturization of the bigger 144A (5mm x 5mm) but with color quality and CCT range of E series. Although the max output and current capabilities are less than normal 4x E21A setup, the tighter uniform “donut free” beam and robust ceramic package makes this LED easier to implement where tight beam control is required. The white reflector “fence” make sure most of the light directed upwards and reduce the color shift over angle. Designed for high power (8 watts) narrow beam directional lighting with broad range of CCT (from 2700K to 7500K) and available in various CRI (Rnn, R70. R8000, R9050, R9080).

!https://i.imgur.com/Qu2UrIJ.jpg!

5step for the 4500K from Convoy.

cannga
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lfb wrote:

5step for the 4500K from Convoy.

Thanks. The knowledge on this forum is great.

Out of curiosity I did a rough calculation on the Duv range of 7step. Seems like about 20 points form one end to the other?

That doesn’t seem too bad but I guess 7step’s CCT also has a large range of variation; for example CCT of 4500k looks like it could be as low as 4100k and as high as 4900k. This is quite a large range of beam color variation.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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In case you’re a hard core headlamp users, hope this helps. The Convoy H2 headlamp with Nichia 219b is on the heavy side at 4.5 oz with battery. I’ve found that when headlamps exceed ~4 oz in weight, it’s not stable AND I get a headache from the weight pressing on my forehead. It seems this could be improved if the headband has an over-head strap, the secondary strap that goes ON TOP of the head from front to back.

Recently there was a thread on BLF and both Skilhunt and Olight headbands were very highly recommended. I bought both, plus a Convoy overhead, and try them with my different headlamps. I like all 3, but they are very different from each other:
Olight headband has a hard plastic backing with a groove, and then a rubber strap that you pull over to hold the headlamp. Except for the relatively higher cost, nothing but praise for it. Very comfortable, very well made. The rubber strap means it should fit multiple light diameters. Here’s where I got mine https://www.ebay.com/itm/374130816305.
Skilhunt headband has a clip, protrudes from a hard plastic backing. It’s made for the smaller Skilhunt headlamp, and hence is a little tight for Convoy H2 headlamp. The clip is probably best version if you take light on and off all the time (which I don’t do). Best price on Aliexpress here.
Convoy has two soft rubber rings (Olight has another band of similar design). The backing is soft rubber. Convoy is the least expensive by far (two for 6 bucks!), but one thing that I’ve noticed about the Convoy headband is the horizontal elastic strap seems to be on the small size (mine is set at max size and I’m not a big person – 5’7” 155 lbs). The elastic band expands easily so maybe it’s not a problem, but I don’t know. On Aliexpress here

I like all 3; all have excellent functionally. Skilhunt and Olight headbands subjectively have the look and feel of an expensive strap. My Convoy H2 is too big and hence doesn’t rotate easily in Skilhunt (not Skilhunt’s fault, it’s not made for Convoy H2). Stability are excellent in all 3. If you wear your headlamp for a long duration, it seems like the soft rubber of Convoy might be more comfortable. This is an on-going evaluation so please don’t be surprised if my opinions change.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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While we are on topic of Nichia LED in headlamps, I have a Skilhunt headlamp with Nichia 519a 4500k Thumbs Up Love coming – that should be a fantastic fit for the Skilhunt headband. I ordered the version with reflector H04R RC because I like to see throw and brightness and among the 3 versions of H04, this is supposedly it. The weight is amazing low (hope it’s correct!) – only 48 gm for an 18650 light (without battery). I can hardly wait.

Nichia 519a has warm golden beam color with world class CRI and R9; should be great for a headlamp. Convoy also has 519a headlamps, in the H1 or H3 hosts. H3 is much cheaper than Skilhunt and in addition has integral USB-C charging, but is just too heavy (88 gm) for headlamp (for me) so I painfully had to pass.

I will write a weight comparison once the Skilhunt gets here. 48 gm is truely exceptional and that’s why I put up with the much higher cost and lack of integral USB charging. Anyway it’s a Nichia 519a and I have a hard time saying no to Nichia lol.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Just an off topic relaxing picture of the nature trail of my evening walks. Lots of plants and flowers along the path to justify why I talk incessantly about CRI and R9 lol. And why I’m ordering M21B w/ Nichia B35AM even though I most definitely don’t need another light Facepalm Sick and don’t like lights without USB-C charging (my light is on high brightness for nearly an hour and requires frequent recharging).

Thank goodness Simon seems to be switching and releasing more lights with USB-C charging.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Argo
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wow beautiful view

jon_slider
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> Out of curiosity I did a rough calculation on the Duv range of 7step. Seems like about 20 points form one end to the other?

thank you, that is very helpful info
I do think a 0.0020 point range is not uncommon, and imo it is also not a large visual variation

> 7step’s CCT also has a large range of variation; for example CCT of 4500k looks like it could be as low as 4100k and as high as 4900k.

also great info. I agree a +-400K “seems” large, however
that is within a +- 9% variation, not uncommon

this is why there will always be a “Tint lottery”. No two LEDs will be identical. The Opple can really help quantify the differences, something most people never realized was typical before.

> Skilhunt headband has a clip

great info, and also really appreciate your photos
Im a fan of designs that allow easy conversion from handheld to handsfree use

> 48 gm for an 18650 light (without battery)

add 45 grams for the battery

I look forward to your HeadLamp impressions
enjoy the night walks!:-)

cannga
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Simon Mao wrote:
stephenk wrote:
…. Also, are we likely to see a USB-C charging version of the S21D this year?

…S21D with side switch and type-c port is in proudction

Nichia 219b and 519a in S21D with side switch and integral USB-C charging is coming.

This is why I hesitate to buy Nichia 519a in M21B even though I would love a throwy 519a. I prefer side switch w/ USB-C lights and am thinking/hoping Simon is going to put it in M21F (?) as he is adding more USB-C lights.

Thanks Argo & Jon for the nice comments. Re. headlamp: Skilhunt H04R RC is in for a fight; the Convoy H2 twins (Nichia 219b 4500k and 3700k) are fantastic and a delight to use. They are throwy for a Nichia light, which I really like for a walk light, and sustained brightness is among the very best. Of course their weakness (weight) is Skilhunt’s strength, so I think I’m going to love all 3 Innocent .

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Prophetic forest
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cannga wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:
stephenk wrote:
…. Also, are we likely to see a USB-C charging version of the S21D this year?

…S21D with side switch and type-c port is in proudction

Nichia 219b and 519a in S21D with side switch and integral USB-C charging is coming.

This is why I hesitate to buy Nichia 519a in M21B even though I would love a throwy 519a. I prefer side switch w/ USB-C lights and am thinking/hoping Simon is going to put it in M21F (?) as he is adding more USB-C lights.

Thanks Argo & Jon for the nice comments. Re. headlamp: Skilhunt H04R RC is in for a fight; the Convoy H2 twins (Nichia 219b 4500k and 3700k) are fantastic and a delight to use. They are throwy for a Nichia light, which I really like for a walk light, and sustained brightness is among the very best. Of course their weakness (weight) is Skilhunt’s strength, so I think I’m going to love all 3 Innocent .


Hello, is this true? This is what I miss on my s21d, it’s not always convenient to scroll through the modes, I’m used to a button with a smooth change in brightness, this will be perfect
dick33
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B35AM is like 4xE17A not E21 – fyi, cannga. I have convoy with B35AM, very low lumens, weak hicri led. Not more than 1000lm on 3A (18w) and it make smoke on this. Just 700lm on 9w.

cannga
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Prophetic forest wrote:
Simon Mao wrote:

S21D with side switch and type-c port is in production

Hello, is this true? This is what I miss on my s21d, it’s not always convenient to scroll through the modes, I’m used to a button with a smooth change in brightness, this will be perfect

Yes, Simon Mao the person I quoted is owner of Convoy. “In production” hopefully means it won’t be too long.

@dick33 thanks for the helpful info. You have the first gen light that smokes?

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Prophetic forest
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Simon replied Smile
I have started to produce the drive and the host.
This may take 1 to 2 months.

cannga
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Prophetic forest wrote:
Simon replied Smile I have started to produce the drive and the host. This may take 1 to 2 months.

Oh no that’s a little too long of a wait lol. I am finding this one hard to resist, maybe 519a in 5000k so that if it’s lower than spec, it would hit my desired 4500k Smile .

Pic of my latest toy M21B w/ B35AM 4500k. Love it so far. My reasons for the B35AM are:
**first, its exceptional CRI finish, Ra=98 R9=98 are among the very highest CRI numbers I’ve seen, and
**second, I’m looking for a throwy (throwish?) Nichia in a pocketable host as all of my Nichia lights so far are floody lights.

Although I like the magenta/rosy 219b 4500k lights, I actually am hoping for a beam color that is different from magenta. I find it more fun that way as it would be boring for me if every LED looks the same. BTW sorry about the yellow clips in every light – that’s the only leftover spray paint I have and I got tired of metallic finish.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Argo
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Sorry for OT, but every time i see a MAO flashlight i think about them! 

 

cannga
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Specs from Simon – even among these top Nichia LED’s, the B35AM’s CRI numbers look exceptional. It has among the very highest Ra and R9 numbers that I have seen. Duv on negative side, hopefully beam color will be different from what I’ve already had, to bring variety to (flashlight) life.

Throw of B35AM in M21B host is 263 m, instantly making it the most throwy-throwish small Nichia light I have (S21D and Emisar D4V2 with 219b 4500k are next best at ~170m see here). This is equal to GT-FC40 4500k’s throw in same host. However there is more to this story, as output of B35AM is roughly half of FC40 by my amateur ceiling bounce method, so something has got to give (area of central brightness and spill).

Now that I actually see the MAO finish, I think it is very beautiful. It’s a fantastic subdued off white, almost chalk white. So different from every other flashlight I have. @Argo see pics of the stormtrooper’s head and leg Smile . Anyway, my preliminary thought: from what I see so far, IMHO get your money ready (grin) if you’re into collecting Nichia.

Nichia 219b 4500k
CCT 4526k
Ra 96
R9 97
R12 79
Duv -0.00995

Nichia 519a 4500k
CCT 4500k
Ra 93.6
R9 82
R12 80
Duv 0.00091

Nichia B35AM 4500k
CCT 4454k
Ra 98
R9 99
R12 77
Duv -0.00503

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

jon_slider
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cannga wrote:
Now that I actually see the MAO finish, I think it is very beautiful.
I like it too.. I hope it proves suitably durable for you

Storm Trooper Edition.. lol
.

darosk
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Can anyone confirm that s21d fits wurkkos 20350 tube? I know s21d shares threads with s21b, and that the s21b fits the wurkkos 20350 tube and works, but if possible anyone has the combo and post wether or not it works? I’d like to see how it looks like too.

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