New Convoy S21D w/ legendary Nichia 219b :) - Impression & comparison w/ Nichia 519a & E21a (in Emisar) & other great LED's.

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cannga
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xevious wrote:
Great review, lots of very useful details. I don’t see the S21D on the AliExpress Convoy store. I’m guessing it should come back eventually. Will there be an option for domed or de-domed, or do you have to explicitly request it?

Thanks. I think it’s just temporary out of stock – maybe getting too popular because it is such a fantastic light for the give-away cost Smile ? I’ve just PM’ed Simon to confirm.

I do not know if Convoy offers custom-order de-domed version of LED in the past (does anyone know?); I’ve asked him about this also.

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Right now, I don’t think Simon offers dedomed.

cannga
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And if you are asking about dedomed 519a 4500k, which when dedomed becomes 3500k (? anyone correct me as needed), a fantastic alternative is 219b in 3500k form. Convoy doesn’t have 219b 3500k but Emisar does https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html. It is a LED with beautiful beam color and world class CRI of R9080, the very highest rating possible. The magenta tint of 219b 4500k could be too much (too magenta’ish lol) and at times I much prefer the color of 219b 3500k. More calming golden so to speak, without any trace of undesirable green. In other words, as “perfect” a 3500k LED as could be imho.

Based on the too many Smile Nichia comparisons that I’ve done, I suspect whether dedomed 519a 4500k (which I don’t have) is “better” than 219b 3500k will likely come down to personal preference.

xevious
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Doesn’t dedoming also extend throw and cut back a bit on spill, all things being equal with the same optic?

I enjoy tints that lean rosy, but not too much. A bit more towards golden seems more natural, closer to incandescent. But yeah, the green… I absolutely loathe it. Especially a puke green with yellowish overtones. I’d bought a few lights with tints like that in the deep past, the worst being an Olight M2 Warrior. The artifacts in the beam were also atrocious. Olight has surely come a long way from those days!

cannga
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From Simon: no dedomed offering for now.

cannga
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xevious wrote:
…. I enjoy tints that lean rosy, but not too much. A bit more towards golden seems more natural, closer to incandescent. But yeah, the green… I absolutely loathe it. Especially a puke green with yellowish overtones. I’d bought a few lights with tints like that in the deep past, the worst being an Olight M2 Warrior. The artifacts in the beam were also atrocious. Olight has surely come a long way from those days!

Yes – it is personal preference, there’s no right or wrong (well except for some egregious examples like my copy of Thrunite TT2 w/ green hell Cree NW XHP70.2). Some love the 219b 4500k always, I love it for the stunning color rendering, but NOT always because I find the magenta tint not as relaxing as a more golden hue. Like all hobbies, audio, photography, cars, etc., there are choices for any kind of “toy,” and the lucky ones get to experience all the flavors. Each not necessarily better than another, just different.

Personally were I to start a collection of Nichia, this is what I would like to get IMHO/YMMV:
1. Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k
2a. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 3500k. Because it has a warmer CCT that any Nichia hobbyist should experience and is a 219b R9080.
2b. Convoy S21D with Nichia 519a 4500k original, NOT dedomed. Because it has a relaxing “golden” hue and doesn’t cause me to over analyze everything I see Smile . It “feels” most like the incandescent or warm-white LED light bulbs in my house, ie “normal” lighting.

snfx
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Hey cannga, I got the metal tail switch that you recommended and I love the function of it. Although, I notice the blue light on the switch is getting dimmer, almost like its failing. Is this normal for you also?

cannga
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snfx wrote:
Hey cannga, I got the metal tail switch that you recommended and I love the function of it. Although, I notice the blue light on the switch is getting dimmer, almost like its failing. Is this normal for you also?

I have too many lights with so many different types of accessory lights so I may not notice when something is off, but no I haven’t noticed any such problem. I’ll check later when I’m home.

xevious
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cannga wrote:
Yes – it is personal preference, there’s no right or wrong (well except for some egregious examples like my copy of Thrunite TT2 w/ green hell Cree NW XHP70.2). Some love the 219b 4500k always, I love it for the stunning color rendering, but NOT always because I find the magenta tint not as relaxing as a more golden hue. Like all hobbies, audio, photography, cars, etc., there are choices for any kind of “toy,” and the lucky ones get to experience all the flavors. Each not necessarily better than another, just different.

Personally were I to start a collection of Nichia, this is what I would like to get IMHO/YMMV:
1. Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k
2a. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 3500k. Because it has a warmer CCT that any Nichia hobbyist should experience and is a 219b R9080.
2b. Convoy S21D with Nichia 519a 4500k original, NOT dedomed. Because it has a relaxing “golden” hue and doesn’t cause me to over analyze everything I see Smile . It “feels” most like the incandescent or warm-white LED light bulbs in my house, ie “normal” lighting.

I agree, no right or wrong — just about fulfilling a preference. I do have a few different “shades of Nichia” in my collection already, from 219b R9050 sw35 sw30 to R9080 sw45, and 219c sw50. I don’t have any E21 or 519a.
snfx
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cannga wrote:
snfx wrote:
Hey cannga, I got the metal tail switch that you recommended and I love the function of it. Although, I notice the blue light on the switch is getting dimmer, almost like its failing. Is this normal for you also?

I have too many lights with so many different types of accessory lights so I may not notice when something is off, but no I haven’t noticed any such problem. I’ll check later when I’m home.

I visit the shop site and saw that the light on the tail switch will go lower in volts as the battery drains down.

I put in a fresh battery and the switch got brighter!

cannga
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xevious wrote:
I agree, no right or wrong — just about fulfilling a preference. I do have a few different “shades of Nichia” in my collection already, from 219b R9050 sw35 to R9080 sw45, and 219c sw50. I don’t have any E21 or 519a.

Just curious – your 219b sw35 is R9050? The one I got from Emisar seems to be R9080 https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html .

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cannga wrote:
xevious wrote:
I agree, no right or wrong — just about fulfilling a preference. I do have a few different “shades of Nichia” in my collection already, from 219b R9050 sw35 to R9080 sw45, and 219c sw50. I don’t have any E21 or 519a.
Just curious – your 219b sw35 is R9050? The one I got from Emisar seems to be R9080 https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html .
Yeah, just double-checked. Got it slightly wrong. It’s R9050 sw30. Bought a few from “trailhunter” back in 2019.
cannga
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cannga wrote:

Temperature after 25 minute run-down from Turbo/Max brightness level, measured with IR gun pointing at the head area. Note that this is laying on plastic in a room without any cooling. During my walk it is considerably cooler and I could hold either Convoy without any problem.
Convoy S21D —-> 59 C
Convoy M21B —-> 59 C
Emisar D4V2 219b 4500k (with internal temp set to 55) —-> 49 C
Olight M2R Pro —->47 C
Sofirn SP36 BLF 400k —->45 C

Per Simon it appears the shortage of S21D is related to availability of the new driver option. Yep new OPTION. Whereas the original S21D has 8A Buck driver, the next batch of S21D will have new 12A FET driver.

The puzzle is that the old 8A Buck driver will also be available after that next batch with 12A FET.

I quoted my temperature observation above because during my comparison with Emisar D4V2 with max thermal limit reset to 55 C, the S21D with 8A Buck driver was one, among the most toasty of all my lights, and two, maintained excellent brightness during the run down from Turbo, much better than D4V2.

It would be interesting to see how the FET version compares. Personally until some reviewer could do a run time comparison, I would be tempted to wait for the Buck driver version because it maintains brightness so well but of course that means you’ll have to wait.

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cannga wrote:
cannga wrote:

Temperature after 25 minute run-down from Turbo/Max brightness level, measured with IR gun pointing at the head area. Note that this is laying on plastic in a room without any cooling. During my walk it is considerably cooler and I could hold either Convoy without any problem.
Convoy S21D —-> 59 C
Convoy M21B —-> 59 C
Emisar D4V2 219b 4500k (with internal temp set to 55) —-> 49 C
Olight M2R Pro —->47 C
Sofirn SP36 BLF 400k —->45 C

Per Simon it appears the shortage of S21D is related to availability of the new driver option. Yep new OPTION. Whereas the original S21D has 8A Buck driver, the next batch of S21D will have new 12A FET driver.

The puzzle is that the old 8A Buck driver will also be available after that next batch with 12A FET.

I quoted my temperature observation above because during my comparison with Emisar D4V2 with max thermal limit reset to 55 C, the S21D with 8A Buck driver was one, among the most toasty of all my lights, and two, maintained excellent brightness during the run down from Turbo, much better than D4V2.

It would be interesting to see how the FET version compares. Personally until some reviewer could do a run time comparison, I would be tempted to wait for the Buck driver version because it maintains brightness so well but of course that means you’ll have to wait.

Interesting. I would be curious what the specs are on that buck driver.

cannga
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snfx wrote:
cannga wrote:
snfx wrote:
Hey cannga, I got the metal tail switch that you recommended and I love the function of it. Although, I notice the blue light on the switch is getting dimmer, almost like its failing. Is this normal for you also?

I have too many lights with so many different types of accessory lights so I may not notice when something is off, but no I haven’t noticed any such problem. I’ll check later when I’m home.

I visit the shop site and saw that the light on the tail switch will go lower in volts as the battery drains down.

I put in a fresh battery and the switch got brighter!

Great – built-in battery level indicator. Thumbs Up Smile
I’ve just looked at the page myself – below 3V the switch draws less current and becomes dimmer.

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Great battery indicator indeed. Starting at 4.2V, I can tell with remarkable accuracy, just from the switch, when the batt drops below 4.0V and 3.7V. 

snfx
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cannga wrote:
cannga wrote:

Temperature after 25 minute run-down from Turbo/Max brightness level, measured with IR gun pointing at the head area. Note that this is laying on plastic in a room without any cooling. During my walk it is considerably cooler and I could hold either Convoy without any problem.
Convoy S21D —-> 59 C
Convoy M21B —-> 59 C
Emisar D4V2 219b 4500k (with internal temp set to 55) —-> 49 C
Olight M2R Pro —->47 C
Sofirn SP36 BLF 400k —->45 C

Per Simon it appears the shortage of S21D is related to availability of the new driver option. Yep new OPTION. Whereas the original S21D has 8A Buck driver, the next batch of S21D will have new 12A FET driver.

The puzzle is that the old 8A Buck driver will also be available after that next batch with 12A FET.

I quoted my temperature observation above because during my comparison with Emisar D4V2 with max thermal limit reset to 55 C, the S21D with 8A Buck driver was one, among the most toasty of all my lights, and two, maintained excellent brightness during the run down from Turbo, much better than D4V2.

It would be interesting to see how the FET version compares. Personally until some reviewer could do a run time comparison, I would be tempted to wait for the Buck driver version because it maintains brightness so well but of course that means you’ll have to wait.

will the new driver cost more?

cannga
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snfx wrote:
will the new driver cost more?

No announcement of any price change. From what I’ve read if anything a FET driver tends to be less expensive than Buck drivers.

The message I seem to be getting from Simon (he likes to answer my complex question with a short phrase Smile ) is that if you don’t have any problem with the present Buck driver light, don’t worry about changing the driver.

cannga
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The saga continues – the on again off again availability of Opple Light Master Pro. For what seemed like an eternity the “Pro” version was not available anywhere, but now seems to be on Aliexpress. Waiting for a bigger sale is too painful so I bought it right away.

Fingers crossed that there’s no shenanigans and it’s the Pro and NOT the cheaper Series 2 that they will send me, but this is THE legit official store and it seems the item is already at transport hub so should be ok. If you’d like to get one, just make sure it’s the item on the right side (in the red square), where under “Color” it will say Pro (please don’t ask me why it’s under “Color” lol ). The other way to tell is of course the Pro is more expensive.

If you have multiple Nichia’s, this of course makes the hobby even more fun, but should be educational to check & compare CRI and DUV of all the light bulbs in the house, etc. also. It’s not going to be super accurate like the $600 meter that Simon uses, but like my usual motto for Convoy lights, at 40 bucks I’m not complaining Innocent .

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803116495145.html?spm=a2g0o.order_li...

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Hey guys the S21D with the new FET drivers are LIVE NOW.

I’m debating to grab one now or wait for the 8A version, I typically run the 3rd setting brightness and I really like it

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snfx wrote:
Hey guys the S21D with the new FET drivers are LIVE NOW.

I’m debating to grab one now or wait for the 8A version, I typically run the 3rd setting brightness and I really like it

What are the specs for this?

cannga
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Optic options also available – if you order the light now, ask for an extra one, he might just include it for free. The one I have is 60 degree, very nicely floody if that’s what you want. The next step down is the 30 dgree, which would be what I’d be interested in (I already am using Sofirn IF25a’s more throwy optic in my Convoy S21D and like this combination very much.).

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803779702270.html?gatewayAdapt=4item...

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Since I only use the light for low – medium levels, would it be best to get the 8A driver instead of the FET 12 since I won’t utilize the boost driver?

Will the 12A driver still be ok to use for low – medium levels or it wouldn’t be optimized as the 8A?

cannga
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snfx wrote:
Since I only use the light for low – medium levels, would it be best to get the 8A driver instead of the FET 12 since I won’t utilize the boost driver?

Will the 12A driver still be ok to use for low – medium levels or it wouldn’t be optimized as the 8A?

I am absolutely/unequivocally Innocent no expert when it comes to drivers (whether buck, boost, linear, direct drive), just want to report my experience with the 8A Buck driver, and even that is seat of the pants type report: it gets hotter than other lights (measured with IR gun it was 59 C, versus my other lights’ 45 C or less), but it stays bright longer with les step-downs than for example same 219b 4500k LED in Emisar D4V2 with max thermal limit reset to 55 C. Basically I like/love the S21D with 8A Buck driver and have no problem with it.

From what I could read, FET driver is not as efficient (more heat) and use PWM to regulate output. Neither characteristic would be considered advantageous. Any expert please correct me or expand discussion as needed.

It puzzles me that as best I could understand Simon, the 8A Buck driver “supposedly” will become available AFTER this batch of 12 A FET driver. And… BOTH drivers are considered “options,” which is odd to me. So sorry there are more questions than answer. But… if it were me, I would be tempted to PM Simon and ask if he could sell you a light with 8A Buck driver, and if not, when one would become available. Please post what you find. All IMHO anyone pls correct me as needed.

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FWIW from Aliexpress web site:
***************************************************

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803593026491.html?spm=a2g0o.productl...
12A FET driver, max output 12A, It is greatly affected by the battery voltage and internal resistance, and the current drops rapidly.

8A CC driver, constant current buck driver, As long as the battery voltage is greater than the LED VF value, the driver still maintains a high current output. In addition, the new 8A driver uses springs instead of copper posts.

Bead TIR lens makes the light much softer, The larger the angle of the lens, the more scattered the light.

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cannga wrote:
FWIW from Aliexpress web site:
***************************************************

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803593026491.html?spm=a2g0o.productl...
12A FET driver, max output 12A, It is greatly affected by the battery voltage and internal resistance, and the current drops rapidly.

8A CC driver, constant current buck driver, As long as the battery voltage is greater than the LED VF value, the driver still maintains a high current output. In addition, the new 8A driver uses springs instead of copper posts.

Bead TIR lens makes the light much softer, The larger the angle of the lens, the more scattered the light.

Simon said 20 days for the 8A Buck drivers to be restocked and they will come with springs instead of the copper rod for the battery

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cannga wrote:
And if you are asking about dedomed 519a 4500k, which when dedomed becomes 3500k (? anyone correct me as needed), a fantastic alternative is 219b in 3500k form. Convoy doesn’t have 219b 3500k but Emisar does https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4v2-high-power-led-flashlight.html. It is a LED with beautiful beam color and world class CRI of R9080, the very highest rating possible. The magenta tint of 219b 4500k could be too much (too magenta’ish lol) and at times I much prefer the color of 219b 3500k. More calming golden so to speak, without any trace of undesirable green. In other words, as “perfect” a 3500k LED as could be imho.

Based on the too many Smile Nichia comparisons that I’ve done, I suspect whether dedomed 519a 4500k (which I don’t have) is “better” than 219b 3500k will likely come down to personal preference.

It appears that Convoy does offer the S21D with sw35 D200 L2R 9080 LEDs. Agreed, it’s a terrific LED!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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snfx wrote:
cannga wrote:
FWIW from Aliexpress web site:
***************************************************

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803593026491.html?spm=a2g0o.productl...
12A FET driver, max output 12A, It is greatly affected by the battery voltage and internal resistance, and the current drops rapidly.

8A CC driver, constant current buck driver, As long as the battery voltage is greater than the LED VF value, the driver still maintains a high current output. In addition, the new 8A driver uses springs instead of copper posts.

Bead TIR lens makes the light much softer, The larger the angle of the lens, the more scattered the light.

Simon said 20 days for the 8A Buck drivers to be restocked and they will come with springs instead of the copper rod for the battery

Only 20 days? All things considered if it were me I would wait for the Buck driver version.

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cannga wrote:
snfx wrote:
cannga wrote:
FWIW from Aliexpress web site:
***************************************************

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803593026491.html?spm=a2g0o.productl...
12A FET driver, max output 12A, It is greatly affected by the battery voltage and internal resistance, and the current drops rapidly.

8A CC driver, constant current buck driver, As long as the battery voltage is greater than the LED VF value, the driver still maintains a high current output. In addition, the new 8A driver uses springs instead of copper posts.

Bead TIR lens makes the light much softer, The larger the angle of the lens, the more scattered the light.

Simon said 20 days for the 8A Buck drivers to be restocked and they will come with springs instead of the copper rod for the battery

Only 20 days? All things considered if it were me I would wait for the Buck driver version.

Agreed. For the 219b, I think a longer constant 2A per diode is much preferable to a more transitory 3A (with hardly noticeable increase in lumens and associated increase in heat).

Of course, this is all hypothetical for me based on my limited understanding of how these two drivers operate. It would be great to see runtime/lumens graph for both configurations.

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jon_slider wrote:
for me, sw45k is the gold standard
I recommend a Reylight Pineapple Mini in the metal of your choosing
or better yet a Jetbeam RRT-01 w an LED swap

I like 519a 4500K dedomed (it becomes 3400K), better than sw35

suggest a Convoy T3 with domed 519a 4500K, so you can compare it to sw45k, and then decide if you want to dedome the Convoy

.

would you say the 519a 4500k de-domed is the rosiest CCT?

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