Convoy S21D w/ legendary Nichia 219b :) - Review & photo comparison w/ Nichia 519a & E21a (in D4V2) & other LED's.

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cannga
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xevious wrote:
I’ve been looking for a modest form factor single cell long thrower. Right now I have an old Nitecore EC4GT that has decent throw for its size (475 meters). I love the form factor, 2×18650 in parallel creating a rectangular body. I’ve been looking for something that can throw at least as far while also delivering a broader hotspot. My Sofirn SP33v3 falls about 200 meters behind the EC4GT but has excellent spill… despite the tint being cooler than I like. Anyway, I wanted to try something newer. First, I considered getting something on the inexpensive side, like the IF22A. But then I saw what Convoy was doing and that drew me to nearly buying an M21E. Then I thought maybe I should give Emisar a go. But after seeing the TS30S specs with SBT90.2… the price is very attractive. I just wish it came in 5000k.

Good news: the CCT of SBT90.2 in my Wurkkos TS30S is ~5200K. The beam of SBT90.2 will surprise a lot of people. For a super thrower it is suprisingly warm. Golden yellow slightly green, like the color of the LED itself. The only other thrower that has similar warm beam is Olight M2R Pro Warrior XHP35 HI, which is around 4700K. Very pleasant, except the green here could be a touch much depending on LED lottery (I have 3, all different colors). Although green tint doesn’t bother me as much in throwers – subjects being so far away.

The other two throwers that I have, Sofirn IF22a ~6400K (w/ SFT40) and Nitecore MH12S ~5900K (SST40) both have steely harsh blue beam that obliterates colors. Stay away from those 2 if that would bother you. In addition stay away from IF22a unless you are looking for a very narrow beam with hardly any spill, as a result of the 5 Degree TIR used. For me that kind of beam is unbalanced and the light therefore not my favorite, but of course that’s strictly personal preference.

Wurkkos TS30S will obliterate M21E and IF22a both in brightness and in usefulness of beam (wide, bright beam). IMHO the only competition for a SBT90.2 light is another SBT90.2 light. I looked at Convoy L8 but didn’t go for it because it is getting too large, costs twice as much, and uses that 26800 battery (I wanted to stay with 27100). Larger reflectors tend to create tighter smaller brighter hotspot (better throw) but may sacrifice spill (less flood). In retrospect I love the hotspot/spill balance of the Wurkkos so Convoy may not be an “upgrade” outside of throw. Hope this helps and sorry way OT to discuss Luminus and Cree in a Nichia thread lol.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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As you know by now Convoy has released a goodie bag of TIR Optics to use with your Convoy S21D. The goodie bag includes 4 optics total, and in the order of decreasing throw and increasing flood they are: 10 Clear, 10 Bead, 30 Bead, 60 Bead.

For anyone new to this, decreasing throw means the hotspot in the middle of the beam becomes less bright, at the same time that the periphery becomes brighter and larger (covers more area). That is the tradeoff between hotspot/throw and spill/flood, like tax, unavoidable. You could see this very clearly in the beamshot below.

Personally and for example, if I like to see further ahead for safety reason, such as during my evening walk, then I prefer the Convoy 10 Clear because its brighter central hotspot means further throw. OTOH, if I am doing close up work, for example repainting the brake caliper of my car, then the floody 60 Bead is much nicer. In this situation a bright hotspot such as with 10 Clear is blinding. The throw measurements below show how optics directly affect how far a light shines (throw). The Sofirn 10 Clear is the optic on Sofirn IF25a that just happens to also fit in Convoy S21D. I’ve also included Emisar throw numbers for comparison.

PS If you are buying a S21D from Aliexpress, at the time of ordering just send a nice note to Simon and asks if he could gift you some extra optics (and please don’t quote my name lol). A pair of 10 Clear and 60 Bead or 10 Clear and 30 Bead would be a nice start IMHO.

S21D with 219b 4500K
1. Sofirn ~10° Clear 170 m
2. Convoy 10° Clear 170 m
3. Convoy 10° Bead 157 m
4. Convoy 30° Bead 144 m
5. Convoy 60° Bead 113 m

S21D with 519a 4500K
Convoy 10° Clear 157 m (using same optic, 519a less throwy than 219b)

Emisar D4V2 219b 4500K
Carlo 10621 Clear 140 m
Carlo 10622 Clear 137 m

Emisar D4V2 E21a 4500K
Carlo 10621 Clear 174 m (using same optic, E21a is more throwy than 219b)
Carlo 10622 Clear 170 m
Carlo 10623 Frosted 111 m (frosted optic makes “hotspot” (central area of beam) of D4V2 w/ E21a very dim)

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

xevious
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^ Thank you, Cannga — the TS30S is now top of my list! Cool

buck91
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I’ve been looking to pick up the S21D in 3500k 519a but now I see this S21E with integral C charging… Sure its lower output but still brighter than my backpack zebralight. Anybody want to sway me one way or the other???

cannga
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In the following picture note how hotspot becomes brighter (more throwy) at same time that tint shift appears and spill decreases (less floody) as we move from Carlo 10623 to 10622 and then 10621. Also the interesting difference between E21a and 219b: both has tint shift, but it appears “earlier” and more severe in E21a , resulting in Hank needing to use frosted 10623.

For 219b lights Hank uses 10622, a clear optic. For E21a however he switches to 10623, which is frosted and results in a beam that is for me, way too dim. D4V2 has more aggressive thermal stepdowns than Convoy in the first place, and starting that dim is not good for me. 10623 also drops overall brightness as well as throw using ceiling bounce method (down 16% from 10622). This is not something I see with the various Convoy optics wherein overall brightness stays the same between the 5 optics.

10622 versus 10621 for 219b 4500K: The little gain in throw from stock 10622 to 10621 is not worth it because now I see the appearance of a yellow tint shift. I also like the larger spill (more floody) of 10622, and the more gradual and pleasant transition from bright hotspot to spill to darkness. 10622 in this Emisar light creates a most beautiful beam.
10623 versus 10622 for E21a 4500K: This one is a little more difficult. 10623 decreases throw AND brightness so much that I am willing to trade to 10622 despite the appearance of tint shift with 10622.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

stephenk
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buck91 wrote:
I’ve been looking to pick up the S21D in 3500k 519a but now I see this S21E with integral C charging… Sure its lower output but still brighter than my backpack zebralight. Anybody want to sway me one way or the other???

The S21D has a big step up in max and sustained lumens over the S21E. The latter does have a better UI, a bit smaller, and charging.
snfx
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cannga
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White wall hunting beamshots could only tell so much. How does it translate into real life scenes? Here are some actual pictures comparing the three 10 Degree optics:
Sofirn 10 Clear
Convoy 10 Clear
Convoy 10 Bead

The comparison between Sofirn 10° Clear vs Convoy 10° Clear optic is very interesting. They measure identical, the throws are identical, but photographically the Sofirn is just a touch brighter. But this could be shot to shot variation and it is so close I won’t argue if you see differently. Either of the two 10 Clears are winners for those wanting more distance.

I think it’s a matter of time until my neighbors complain about these beamshots into their yards. Facepalm Sick

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

snfx
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cannga wrote:
White wall hunting beamshots could only tell so much. How does it translate into real life scenes? Here are some actual pictures comparing the three 10 Degree optics:
Sofirn 10 Clear
Convoy 10 Clear
Convoy 10 Bead

The comparison between Sofirn 10° Clear vs Convoy 10° Clear optic are very interesting. They measure identical, the throws are identical, but photographically the Sofirn is just a touch brighter IMHO. But this could be shot to shot variation and it is so close I won’t argue if you see differently. Either of the two 10 Clears are winners for those wanting more distance.

I think it’s a matter of time until my neighbors complain about these beamshots into their yards. Facepalm Sick

!https://i.imgur.com/dK5Aldc.jpg!

Great shots!

cannga
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Thanks snfx. White wall beamshots have their role, but nothing could replace a real-life shot.

I added the same picture of the hill using Convoy 30° Bead optic to the collection above for comparison. In that series of 4 pictures, as the optics go from narrow to wide, it’s a very nice confirmation to see how the periphery, garage door on far left and olive tree’s branch on near right, becomes brighter (flood), at the same time that central brightness is decreasing (less throw/hotspot brightness). These series of pictures on this page are really the most fun flashlight “work” for me so far.

For me, this kind of floody view with 30 bead is useful if the light is used mostly close-up, such as inside house, at camp site’s dinner table, etc. It’s less blinding (less hotspot, more periphery). The 30 bead is a nice compromise between 10 Clear and 60 Bead. If anyone is ordering new S21D, I would ask for the gift pair Convoy 10 Clear and Convoy 30 Bead to start.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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BTW I am aware some of these posts are for Emisar D4V2, but one, we have “cross” owners lol, and two, what’s interesting for D4V2 should be equally interesting for Convoy connoisseurs IMHO. Anyway, found something interesting while perusing the Carlo Optic web site
https://www.carclo-optics.com/products/optic-10621

It seems you could predict the nature of the optic by this ratio the arrow is pointing at. The higher candela (hotspot brightness representing throw) per lumen (“overall brightness” in simplified terms) means it’s a more throwy optic. By comparing this spec for the same LED by different optics, for example 10621 versus 10622 versus 10623, you could tell which optic has most throwy before testing. For example 7.6 for 10621, 7.2 for 10622, but only 3.2 for the frosted 10623.

This was how I could tell by spec the difference between 10621 and 10622. It wasn’t clear otherwise. It also confirms my observation why frosted 10623 is so dim for me. That is a big jump from 7.2 to 3.2, and I wonder if something in between the 2 would be a more moderate compromise.

The other way to tell visually is that little circle in the middle of each of the 4 small “lenses”. For the same optic series, that circle seems smaller with more throwy optic. But this “method” is more difficult and you have to be a little nutty to be curious about things like this Sick Big Smile .

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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Yet another thing I learned that makes this hobby more fun: AR coatings are not all the same, and they don’t reflect the same color using the light bulb reflection “test” (I just stand under a ceiling light bulb and look for reflection of the light bulb in the flashlight’s lens as if the lens is a mirror. AR coating changes the color of the light bulb reflection.).

I am curious how Duv would differ among the 4 lenses I have:
1. Convoy S21D lens, the latest per Simon with “green tint” – green reflection.
2. UCL Acrylic lens for Wurkkos TS30S – purple reflection
3. UCL Glass lens for Wurkkos TS30S – blue reflection.
4. Wurkkos non AR coated – no change in color.
The question is how to do the amateur level “test” in a reliable manner, not to screw up Smile as the other lenses are large and obviously don’t fit on S21D.

The UCL lenses are from https://flashlightlens.com/ and highly recommended – about 3-4% improvement in transmission vs non AR coated.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

Argo
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cannga wrote:
If you follow this thread from beginning, you would see my own progression from newbie, to Olight’s green hell, Nichia, then finally these very interesting measurements and comparisons with the great Opple Light Master Pro. I’ve learned a lot thanks to BLF.

Followed are throw measurements of the Convoy optics. For anyone new to this like me, throw measurement essentially reflects how bright the hotspot/central brightness is and more or less “ignores” the flood component of your beam. You put a light sensor some distance away, in my case 6 meters, place the flashlight so the center hotspot lines up exactly with the sensor, then measure the brightness 30 seconds after a “Turbo” start. Lights with higher central brightness win.

The progression from high throw numbers to low throw numbers means central hotspot brightness decreases obviously, but… peripheral brightness increases. That’s the trade-off (there’s a price to pay for every thing in flashlights Smile ).

1. Sofirn Clear 10 Degree 170 m
2. Convoy Clear 10 Degree 170 m
3. Convoy Beaded 10 Degree 157 m
4. Convoy Beaded 30 Degree 144 m
5. Convoy Beaded 60 Degree 113 m

The Sofirn 10 Clear is a touch brighter than Convoy 10 Clear photographically (I could eyeball brightness with my RAW software – will post pics later) but the two measure identically, confirmed with multiple attempts.

I have no picture to post, but followed is a shot of my most favorite place to visit, Italy’s Cinque Terre – @Argo.
!https://i.imgur.com/q59fKxP.jpg!

That’s a nice view!

cannga
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The tested lenses are larger so what I did was taking off the S21D’s OEM lens, then placed the tested lens by holding it, recorded the number, then put back OEM, recorded another number. I did about 4-5 runs or so for each lens, sometimes more. The flashlight was set at 35% brightness and let sit for 15 minutes or so before measuring. I decided to use the middle-of-the-road 30° bead TIR optic this time.

With flashlight mounted on tripod (hence no shaking), I’ve found the Opple Lightmaster Pro (aka Series 3) to be incredibly consistent in its reading of Duv (and brightness & Ra etc.). It reads the same x,y coordinates down to the fourth significant figure between different runs. As such it is a great meter to do comparison work; just remarkable considering how cheap it is. I recommend it extremely highly for anyone into LED collecting.

Duv values for Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500K
The color refers to a reflection of ceiling light bulb, NOT any tint I could see.
Home test for fun, please take result with a grain of salt. There might also be some correction as I double check data.

1. No lens: -0.0127
2. Convoy AR Green-reflection lens : -0.0124 CCT 4471
3. Wurkkos Non-AR: -0.0123
4. UCL AR Blue: -0.0123
5. UCL AR Purple: -0.0102 (Duv change: ~0.0020 more positive) CCT 4365

I find it interesting that the lens with the highest transmission rate, UCL Purple, is also the one that affects Duv the most. Next – beamshots to see if this difference matters in real life scenes.


Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

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cannga wrote:

Convoy Green : -0.0124
UCL-Glass Blue: -0.0122
UCL-Acrylic Purple: -0.0102
Great info!

Green reflecting coating is supposed to prevent green tint from getting thru.

As we see from your test, Blue reflecting coating works Just as Well!

The Acrylic w Purple coating lets the most green get through, thereby raising the DUV by 0.0020 compared to the green and blue coated glass. It may not be the fault of the coating, since Acrylic transmits more light than glass, it may also be transmitting more of the Green tint, thereby raising the DUV.

bobvoeh
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What kind of clamp do you use on your tripod?

cannga
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bobvoeh wrote:
What kind of clamp do you use on your tripod?

The tripod hold I use is this (a legit seller) HERE . It is much better than the small rubber without velcro. I’ve found keeping the light stable is the first step towards measuring reliably, especially for the throw where you have to keep hotspot centered on the sensor.

jon_slider wrote:
Green reflecting coating is supposed to prevent green tint from getting thru. As we see from your test, Blue reflecting coating works Just as Well! The Acrylic w Purple coating lets the most green get through, thereby raising the DUV by 0.0020 compared to the green and blue coated glass. It may not be the fault of the coating, since Acrylic transmits more light than glass, it may also be transmitting more of the Green tint, thereby raising the DUV.

Thanks Jon. From what I have read (meaning I’m no expert), AR coating targets a wavelength that’s close to the center of the visible spectrum (which is yellow green as explained in article below) and as a result proportionally more green will go through with all AR coating, including Convoy’s. The difference is only how much green, as seen here obviously the Convoy is best, and UVL Purple an outlier worst. To be fair, outside of the UVL Purple, the difference among the lenses is small (it’s in the 4th digit) and within error limit of my amateur testing rig for example, even as I’m quite confident of the result.

A good article on this subject http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-166.html

So, if coated lenses are purple, won’t my photos have a purple tint?
No…. actually, they’ll have a slight yellow-green tint – the extra light that didn’t get reflected passes on through to the film, and there’s a little more of the 550nm yellow-green than there is of the other colors. But it’s not very much – glass only reflects about 4% of light from each surface to begin with, and the coating has some effect at all wavelengths – so there’s maybe a couple of percent of extra green light getting to the film. For most normal photography, this isn’t enough to be noticeable in the pictures.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

bobvoeh
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Thanks Cannga!

cannga
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cannga wrote:

Duv values for Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500K
The color refers to a reflection, NOT any tint I could see.
Home test for fun, please take result with a grain of salt. There might also be some correction as I double check data.
1. No lens: -0.0127
2. Convoy Green-reflection : -0.0124
3. Non AR Wurkkos: -0.0123
4. UCL-Glass Blue: -0.0123
5. UCL-Acrylic Purple: -0.0102

Btw the Duv test between 1 and 2 (lens vs no lens) should be easy to do for any Convoy owner with Opple 3. I hope to see similar comparison from other owners, especially people who have the infamous lens w/ purple reflection. That way we could compare/correlate our findings.

I think either a. measuring Duv or b. comparison photography (as opposed to visual observation) are important to have some fun with this :-).

I would like to get a hold of Convoy’s lens with purple reflection but can’t find it on AliX. Would very much appreciate anyone who has spare putple lens for any of my Convoy to send it to me . I’ll pay shipping and lens cost of course.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

cannga
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In comparing Duv number, I’ve noted that if the change is in the fourth number after decimal point, for example
“No Lens”: -0.012 7 versus “Convoy Green-reflection”: -0.012 4
it is not easily noticeable on the Duv graph.

What this means is, at least per my test, unless I develop Superman’s vision, I am not sure that I could see a difference between for example No Lens versus Convoy Green Reflection versus UCL Blue. I plan to take beamshots against the wall of truth to confirm if this is true.

OTOH UCL Purple versus Convoy Green Reflection is a bigger difference (it’s on the third number after decimal point) and likely will be seen on Duv graph.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

stephenk
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cannga wrote:
In comparing Duv number, I’ve noted that if the change is in the fourth number after decimal point, for example
“No Lens”: -0.012 7 versus “Convoy Green-reflection”: -0.012 4
it is not easily noticeable on the Duv graph.

What this means is, at least per my test, unless I develop Superman’s vision, I am not sure that I could see a difference between for example No Lens versus Convoy Green Reflection versus UVL Blue. I plan to take beamshots against the wall of truth to confirm if this is true.

OTOH UVL Purple versus Convoy Green Reflection is a bigger difference (it’s on the third number after decimal point) and likely will be seen on Duv graph.

!https://i.imgur.com/7cgN9aD.jpg!


Visually if you compare some 519A lights with different lenses, the difference in DUV is visually noticeable. However if you then add other emitters into the mix such as SSTs and LH351D, then you realise that even the “worst” 519A/lens combination is very neutral and perfectly acceptable.
QReciprocity42
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It's difficult to see a duv difference when both outputs are way into the magenta region--the percent difference between the two is tiny compared to their deviation from the BBL. (Imagine trying to discern between 1 and 10 lumens, and between 1001 and 1010 lumens. The absolute difference is the same, but the percentage difference is huge!)

I also suspect that the green AR lens would make a larger duv difference numerically with a light source that starts off as neutral or slightly green. If the emitter starts out magenta, there is little green to begin with, and not much removal can happen.

It would be lovely if the test could be re-done with emitters that are neutral or slightly green.

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Thank you Haukkeli for linking the test! Looking at -0.003 decrease in duv from swapping purple to green AR. That's a LOT of green reduction if the emitter starts off close to neutral. Also, the +8 increase in R9 is really something.

I would actually expect a more drastic difference for Convoy lenses--their purple reflection, at least in my sample of Convoy lenses, appears much more intense than the lens shown in the D80 photo.

cannga
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Thanks everyone for your input and @Haukeli great job for finding that post of Djozz’s test – thank you. It’s great to see someone else’s numbers to know I am not entirely lost lol. At any rate after looking at Djozz’s results, I have just rerun my test not just with 219b but also with 519a in my S21D using 60 Bead TIR optic, and could now confirm with near certainty my result Innocent .

For Convoy S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k:
1. No lens: -0.0127
2. Convoy AR Green-reflection lens : -0.0124 CCT 4471
3. Wurkkos Non-AR: -0.0123
4. UCL AR Blue: -0.0123
5. UCL AR Purple: -0.0102 (Duv change: ~0.0020 more positive) CCT 4365

Note that we know changing lenses affect Duv, but not frequently mentioned is it also shifts CCT about 50-100 points.

Where my result is different from Djozz’s – I found essentially no significant difference in Duv among set-up 1 to 4 above.

Where my result is similar to Djozz’s – The UCL Purple AR turns Duv approximately 0.002 more positive (note the decimal point) and drops CCT roughly 50-100 K versus the group of 4 above. Not a huge change numerically, but definitely there, and does bring beam into more yellow-green territory.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

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Thank you @cannga for re-doing the test! Would you share the numerical results for the 519A? (I assume the graphic you shared is for 219B given how low the duv is.)

I swapped out a purple AR coated lens for a non-coated one in my 519A 5700K triple and noticed a huge difference right away. In addition to eliminating much green, the tint shift is a lot less, due to the fact that an AR lens does not alter tint equally in all directions. It alters tint the most near the center of the beam, but barely does anything to tint near the periphery of the beam.

I just ordered some green AR lenses and really hope they will bring the duv down more and eliminate angular tint shift completely.

cannga
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QReciprocity42 wrote:

Thank you @cannga for re-doing the test! Would you share the numerical results for the 519A? (I assume the graphic you shared is for 219B given how low the duv is.)

I swapped out a purple AR coated lens for a non-coated one in my 519A 5700K triple and noticed a huge difference right away. In addition to eliminating much green, the tint shift is a lot less, due to the fact that an AR lens does not alter tint equally in all directions. It alters tint the most near the center of the beam, but barely does anything to tint near the periphery of the beam.

I just ordered some green AR lenses and really hope they will bring the duv down more and eliminate angular tint shift completely.

You’re very welcome. Data from S21D with 519a 4500K and 60 Bead TIR below, very similar behavior to 219b 4500K. Again the UCL Acrylic Lens with Purple reflection is an outlier and the Duv shift is again around 0.002, CCT drops around 50-100. I could provide x,y coordinates if you’re interested.

S21D 519a 4500K with 60 Bead TIR
1. Convoy Green Reflection AR -0.0038 CCT~4041
2. No Lens -0.0037
3. Wurkkos Non-AR -0.0034
4. UCL Blue AR -0.0032
5. UCL Purple AR -0.0018 CCT~3985

Above bolded part in your post very interesting; I didn’t know that. Was about to write that any effect from an AR lens would not affect tint shift since it alters the whole field. Always good to read a second time before responding Facepalm Innocent . But question: if AR doesn’t alter peripheral field, it wouldn’t help with the peripheral tint shift in this Nichia would it?
I actually found the tint shift in my 519a 4500K not that bad especially w/ wide & beaded TIR and in actual use (vs white wall beamshot). Compared to my beamshot is it worse in your 5700K version?

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

QReciprocity42
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cannga wrote:
Above bolded part in your post very interesting; I didn't know that. Was about to write that any effect from an AR lens would not affect tint shift since it alters the whole field. Always good to read a second time before responding Facepalm O:). But question: if AR doesn't alter peripheral field, it wouldn't help with the peripheral tint shift in this Nichia would it? I actually found the tint shift in my 519a 4500K not that bad especially w/ wide & beaded TIR and in actual use (vs white wall beamshot). Compared to my beamshot is it worse in your 5700K version? !https://i.imgur.com/LA1Tx2O.jpg!

Thank you so much for the data! I must say that I am very surprised by how little the green AR on Convoy lens changes the tint.

Regarding your question: I think green AR helps with tint shift precisely because it does not affect the periphery much. In a typical TIR setup, the beam tends to be greener at the center and pinkish at the boundary. A good green AR lens should take out much green from the center but not remove green from the boundary, thereby eliminating tint shift.

The 519As actually start out without too much shift (way less than the 219Cs that were in my light before), and however much shift that does occur cannot be accurately captured by a camera, so I couldn't make a reliable comparison to your beamshots, unfortunately. My 5700K triple is under medium spot frosted (Carclo 10508) TIRs, and with a non-coated glass the tint shift is ok enough that you probably won't notice unless you know it's there. With a purple AR, however, the beam turns to fried egg and the tint shift is very obvious on a white wall and in real world use.

cannga
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QReciprocity42 wrote:
I must say that I am very surprised by how little the green AR on Convoy lens changes the tint.

It’s numerically small but is noticeable as other users have noted (stephenk above). I am glad that my result is in the range of Djozz’s test. His change between green and purple was about .003, mine is .002.

For those new to this you could very roughly see what the change in beam color is by enlarging the pic below and look at the color field that each of the dot is in. It does become a little more yellow-green with the purple AR lens.

I plan to take A vs B picture of actual scene (wall of truth in my living room Smile ) for further comparison between green and purple.

Some favorite LED's: Nichia 219b & B35AM (Ra~98 R9~99), Getian GT-FC40 4500k, Luminus SBT90.2

Helpful & xtremely fun accessories: Texas Ace Lumen Tube - Opple Meter 

4 lights I'd buy were I to start again: Here (IMHO)

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