【Brass prototype update】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0+ Single Color Aux LEDs

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Sudsy
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Miguel_79 wrote:
Micro arc oxidation in white or light gray

Oh, yes that would be lovely!

Firelight2
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Some additional recommendations for the color of the light body:

Tan
Camouflage
light blue
dark blue
olive drab
light grey
dark grey

All colors with matte finish please. Glossy tends to look cheap.

It would also be really nice to have the light manufactured in Titanium. Yes it’s a lot pricier, but it looks great and is very durable. Many people are willing to pay the extra money for Titanium despite the cost, worse thermal properties and higher weight.

UVChemist
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dannyroll wrote:
If it’s this 2323 CSP emitter , it shares the same footprint as the E21a.

I ordered one red and one orange. I also added some E21As to my Clemence group buy. Hopefully the driver plays well with the E21As

Was looking at getting some E21As through Clemence for this same reason. How did you go about getting into the group buy? Just contact him directly?

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OD green,red,blue,orange are all fine.Might even buy one of each but not unless you offer warmer led tints.

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Mandrake50 wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
--- imo Raw Aluminium is a Bad idea, here are some reasons. Italic portions are quotes from googling: 1. Anodised has 17X better heat emission: _The unfinished surface of aluminum can be measured at an emissivity of approximately 0.05. The emissivity of an anodized aluminum surface can be measured at around 0.85._ 2. Raw Aluminium will oxidise, it does not stay shiny, unless it is repolished _Although the relation between Al and neurodegenerative diseases is still controversial, Al is related with many brain diseases including Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, and multiple sclerosis._ 3. Aluminium is toxic, I would not want to handle raw aluminium. _Aluminium's free metal cation, Alaq(3+), is highly biologically reactive and biologically available aluminium is non-essential and essentially toxic._ Honestly, I cannot think of one good reason to choose raw aluminium. If I want a shiny host material, Im a BIG fan of Titanium.
You did not mention raw AL is soft and subject to dings and scratches... you did say, and my big problem with it is that it corrodes easily (making it look like crap). I fully agree with the rest of your post. I am curious why people like raw aluminum... unless they just love to spend time polishing...??? The process was developed and aluminum is almost always anodized for very good reasons. Anyway, if it is bright metal, mine would have to be silver anodized.

 

I have the WildTrails WT90 in "Raw" aluminum, but i dont know if it is actually "raw". It is unanodized, it looks like it is not clearcoated, but it has not tarnished or oxidized at all. So maybe its clearcoated? I have several lights that are labeled as "raw" aluminum in there sale page, but i dont know they must be clear coated bc none of them have oxidized. 

 

So, point of my story is that i like whatever "raw" finish the FireFlies ROT66, wildtrail wt90, Astrolux mf01s, ,and many others are. Maybe they're clearcoated? Thats what i was hoping for when Wurkkos asked about wanting "raw" aluminum. 

 

I definitely do not want a light that oxidizes, nor was i expecting that is what Wurkkos would make. But if it is truly "raw" as in completely unfinished, then i would vote Against it. I just figured the "industry standard" (if there is one? lol) for enthusiast flashlights when making "raw" aluminum finishes was something that does not oxidize. Since i have owned about a dozen lights in this finish and not one of them has oxidized. Well, not to any noticeable amount. then again, i dont leave any of them outside in the elements for any length of time. Smile

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ArtieT59 wrote:
It is unanodized, it looks like it is not clearcoated, but it has not tarnished or oxidized at all. So maybe its clearcoated?
no experience, can you share a photo?

there is also clear anodising
maybe ask one of those “raw” light makers what “raw” means?

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I have a number of aluminum lights in which I removed the anodozing and polished the bare aluminum with Blue Magic. Even after repeated handling they still look shiny. There’s no visible oxidation.

However, what doesn’t look good is the bare aluminum is so soft it tends to get scratched and dinged up. With dings it looks awful.

This is why I prefer Titanium in my bare metal lights. It’s much tougher and doesn’t scratch much.

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I’d love some vibrant body colours, as black tends to get kind of boring. Especially in an edc.
Blue (like the Astrolux EA01S), or maybe red, orange or cyan.

If you want to go the fancy and novel route, MAO would be awesome!

As for aux colour, more ice blue would be appreciated, as I unfortunately missed the first batch.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I have a number of aluminum lights in which I removed the anodozing and polished the bare aluminum with Blue Magic. Even after repeated handling they still look shiny. There’s no visible oxidation.

However, what doesn’t look good is the bare aluminum is so soft it tends to get scratched and dinged up. With dings it looks awful.

This is why I prefer Titanium in my bare metal lights. It’s much tougher and doesn’t scratch much.


There’s some oxidation, but less visible than other patina.

Don’t like it very much. I have the two BLF C01S lights that Sofirn issued, but only because they are BLF lights.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

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Lets wait to see if the flashlight is inherently good before rushing to request different colors and materials.

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The BLF A6 was released , as a option , in raw aluminium right?

I have 3 of those and all are still as nice as they were when new.
Sure if you bang them up they mark but still doesn’t look as tatty as a black/coloured anodised light with the anodisation chipped off.

So raw aluminium for me please. Thumbs Up

Deluminator
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Definitely Raw Aluminum!

Looking to buy used Reylight Pineapple & Acebeam M10? PM ME

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How remove anodising: Innocent

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Raw aluminum and a 4000K-5000K CCT would be awesome. Smile

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jon_slider wrote:
ArtieT59 wrote:
It is unanodized, it looks like it is not clearcoated, but it has not tarnished or oxidized at all. So maybe its clearcoated?
no experience, can you share a photo?

there is also clear anodising
maybe ask one of those “raw” light makers what “raw” means?

The WildTrail lights were clear-anodized…that’s why they had contact issues with a batch or two. They didn’t think to machine the contact surface clean after anodizing, and since it looked like bare metal…oops…shipped ‘em out with unintended isolation where pixies needed to flow. Bit of scuffing up fixed the problem. I kinda thought all of the “silver” aluminum bodies were clear-anodized. It wouldn’t make much sense, for a few reasons, to actually put out a raw/bare aluminum host…but it also wouldn’t be the worst thing since aluminum in all grades will quickly “rust” and create a self-protecting barrier. In a natural or “al-clad” state like that it can get an uneven look with what may appear to be blotches or water drops or just areas of discoloration…a little bit like copper or brass that way but maybe less noticeable. True when highly polished, too, unless you really give it love often or clearcloat it. The additional surface hardness that anodizing imparts is not insignificant, so a raw metal will show wear and damage much, much easier, much faster. Surface treatment with abrasives, wire wheels, etc. can give a completely different look to the “color”/shine of clear-anodizing just through changes in light refraction, and even taking the raw metal to the chem tanks with less preparation can give a neat look albeit with likely less even protection. I think that depends on the particular anodization method, too…have to ask an expert there. So there are options for a raw look while retaining good protection. And in the end it comes down to whether the factory providing the service is willing to do what you ask, but it seems like anodizing options in China have really improved and come a long way in both quality and creativity.

Wurkkos
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iamlucky13][quote=Wurkkos wrote:
Raw aluminum and silver Oxidation, which is better?

If this light has an internal signal tube, I think silver anodizing would be better. If both the signal tube and the body are anodized, there is protection against shorting the signal tube to the body on both sides. If the body is raw aluminum, a scratch in the signal tube could hypothetically cause unintended behavior.

I’ll defer to experience others may have whether this should be a deciding factor, but I think it should be considered for a light of this type.

===
Yes, I forget the problem about conduction and short circuits

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If people want raw nekkid Al without any coating, hey, I’m not gonna stop anyone, but just my 2¢ is that nekkid Al is relatively fragile, soft metal that “flows”.

I had a “cigar tube” that started out polished to a mirror finish, but after just a little while carrying it in my pocket with keys, coins, etc., it started growing little nicks and scratches all over. After a while, it just got nasty looking, so I stopped caring how it looked.

Just saying… Clear ano would at least protect/harden the top layer and make it more resistant to looking like it spent a while in a rock tumbler.

People who like and/or want that “well-used” look, carry on.

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Oh… anyone wants a real unique look, let’s go with that multicolored PVD. LOL

I got a few knives with that finish, and they’re cute.

 

Oh, there was a set of flashlights some mfr put out, eerie names like “Smelly Wife”, etc., and one of them was that PVD multicolor.

Anyone remember them?

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Lightbringer wrote:
If people want raw nekkid Al without any coating, hey, I’m not gonna stop anyone

Also, anyone can take their anodized aluminum light and just immerse it in a cup of Greased Lightning from their local hardware store for a few hours. Result: all the anodizing is gone!

And do this mod while the light is assembled (after checking the o-rings and removing the battery of course), then only the anodizing on the outside of the light should be gone. Anodizing inside the light should still be intact.

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For colors, I would be into:
  • grass green
  • dark/burned orange (but not brown), more like the Convoy s2+ /C8+ orange
  • a very neutral gray, like rocks
  • limestone gravel camouflage: different shades of light and medium gray.

I like orange aux-lights, it would look good in any of these colors.

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So.. any deliveries?

Sudsy
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I don’t have one yet, but user zumlin on Reddit’s r/flashlight put up a few posts today with teardown info. I was happy to read that the ts10 apparently has reflashing pads.

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I’m waiting for zumlin to report if E21A works with TS10. Very excited that it has the flashing pad!

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Maybe they (or Sofirn) will start selling pre built flashers with 3-pin out. That way we can fix their mistakes like the aux lights being constantly on because they used the wrong firmware.

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Zumlin also measured the current draw with the main LED’s off, on a TS10 with orange aux LED’s (runtimes estimated by me, based on 1000mAh battery):

https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/vd0kpy/wurkkos_ts10_bug_has...

Quote:
Aux off: 5uA (23 years)

Orange aux on low: 123uA (11 months)

Orange aux on high: 7.8mA (5.3 days)

I don’t have a TS10, so I can’t give an opinion whether the brightness of the aux LED’s is a good level. However, just considering the current draw with the aux LED’s on, it seems a little high to me. Perhaps it would be prudent to use a resistor for the aux LED’s 2-4 times the value that was used in the first batch. It will mainly affect the high mode. The low mode current draw and brightness is primarily affected by the microcontroller’s internal resistor.

With that said, different aux LED colors have different forward voltages. Maybe the current resistor value was good for blue, but not as good for orange or red.

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It’s the same problem with the TS21 and that are is a problem that can’t be fixed because of the switch. Hopefully this isn’t the case here. There’s no point to aux lights if they whip through batteries.

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The current of the aux LED can be adjusted. we just thought it looks need brighter on high, so the current is adjusted relatively large.
If you want it to be less bright in the high-brightness gear, the current can be adjusted down.
Brighter looks prettier?

varbos
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I think the aux current draw is fine. Use low if you want an always-on locator beacon. Use high if you want to illuminate your surroundings.

With two possible levels, this is a good compromise.

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varbos wrote:
I think the aux current draw is fine. Use low if you want an always-on locator beacon. Use high if you want to illuminate your surroundings.

With two possible levels, this is a good compromise.

Seems ok to me too. I was kinda hoping that red auxes on high could be used as “red moonlight-mode”, but we will see how bright they are on high vs. low.

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