【Brass in 28th, Sep】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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Correllux
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roostre wrote:

Correllux wrote:

Did you ever see Matin’s video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbIBPCea68A

Thanks, I remember Martin but had not seen that video and method for using a short stiff section of wire as a temporary switch and it worked successfully for me compared to trying to use the other end of a longer wire.

Too bad Martin (forum member M4D M4X) has not been recently active on this forum.

Yeah, wish he’d bop in as a member even if he was out of the sales game. His youtube channels are both still active, though, mostly Olight stuff in his native language.

zumlin
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Correllux wrote:
So to clarify, your stock emitters did not fail, it was the E21As that you flowed in for a mod, right?

Correct

zumlin
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roostre wrote:
Can you please describe your method

My way was very similar to Matin’s video, except I only used a single piece of wire. I put one end on the battery and the other end on the inner tube plus momentarily on the outer tube to activate the switch.

RichH
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Been after black and orange aux since the thread started. Any idea when we can expect more black versions?

Silver with a blue aux might look nice in the meantime.

South Saxon

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RichH wrote:
Been after black and orange aux
sent you a PM
Streamtronics
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1) No matter if the LEDs maybe burn due to too much current or bad soldering, I still think Wurkkos should change the driver to a linear design either way. It makes most sense for emitters like this, and who knows what super high drain cells may come in the future. Limiting the max output via a special firmware version might be a temporary solution, but linear drivers have more advantages other than "won't burn up emitters". Limiting the max output through the Anduril UI to avoid LED damage is very bad IMO, a light should never be left in a condition where it might destroy itself with a fresh cell after factory reset/default ramp settings in Advanced UI. 

 

2) I still can't access the TS10 Aliexpress page from Germany. But at least now they are listed on wurkkos.com so that's good.

Wurkkos Terry
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This is exactly what we want to do.
Or rather, we would love to do that.
For any interested flashlight enthusiast, we are welcome to contact us, then we will add some CSP2323 emitters to the parcel sent it for tests.
But sorry the number would not too much, because most of CSP2323 raw materials must ensure the normal supply of sale goods.

Wurkkos Terry
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Sorry the champagne, purple, blue, green and grey these colors are on hold for now.
Because our PMC and warehouse partners were complaining that we made too many tags at the same time on TS10, which would affect the production and storage of other products.
Just for now, black+red+white, 4000k+6000k, red/blue/orange/green, we have 3*2*4=24 style models.
Including the allocation of raw materials, it is also necessary to re-run the audit meeting to make a decision.

Wurkkos Terry
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We have ordered one set of new H10. It should be available tomorrow.
Then ready to find the specific reasons for this problem through a large number of samples collection.

Streamtronics
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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
We have ordered one set of new H10. It should be available tomorrow. Then ready to find the specific reasons for this problem through a large number of samples collection.

I love how much you communicate about this, you're really doing this the right way. Other flashlight manufacturers should take notes on how to do this kind of problem solving. 

RichH
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jon_slider wrote:
RichH wrote:
Been after black and orange aux
sent you a PM

Many thanks Jon. Hope you’re well. I haven’t been in for a while, we have pretty much zero data signal where we’re living in the camper, it’s both a blessing and a curse. Even a phone call involves walking up a hill to scrape a bit of signal out of the sky Smile On the other hand, life is simpler surrounded by nature.

Torch ordered, and I threw in a silver with blue aux for good measure. Big Smile

South Saxon

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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
We have ordered one set of new H10. It should be available tomorrow.
Then ready to find the specific reasons for this problem through a large number of samples collection.

H10? Can’t find any info on that, but it sounds like a small headlamp. I’m a regular headlamp user, so I’m very interested to know more!
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Verodin wrote:
Wurkkos Terry wrote:
We have ordered one set of new H10. It should be available tomorrow. Then ready to find the specific reasons for this problem through a large number of samples collection.
H10? Can’t find any info on that, but it sounds like a small headlamp. I’m a regular headlamp user, so I’m very interested to know more!
H10 is a vapcell high discharge 14500 that people have had some issues with in this light
Verodin
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Oh geez I feel stupid now, should have known Facepalm Serious lack of sleep due to the super warm weather is taking it’s toll Tired

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RichH wrote:
life is simpler surrounded by nature.
So true! Glad youre making it work. And congrats on your TS10 orders Wink
Verodin
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Finally got a TS10 and I have to say it’s the nicest cold white flashlight I’ve seen so far. Still have a cold white B35AM to reflow and compare, but these CSP emitters are quite nice. Still prefer warmer temps though Wink Nice design as well, feels good in hand. Nicely done Wurkkos!

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Thank you Streamtronics for your support always.
Everybody’s questions and suggestions are very precious for us, which will become Wurkkos’ power to move forward, make us higher, faster and stronger.

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zumlin wrote:
mattlward wrote:
Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.

Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.

What needs to be commented out?

zumlin
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RavenII wrote:
zumlin wrote:
mattlward wrote:
Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.

Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.

What needs to be commented out?

#define USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING in This file

Or you can change it to:

#undef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING

Firelight2
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Received confirmation that my next three TS10s on order shipped from Aliexpress today.

RavenII
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zumlin wrote:

#define USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING in This file

Or you can change it to:

#undef USE_INDICATOR_LED_WHILE_RAMPING

Gotcha, thanks!

Sudsy
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Firelight2 wrote:
Received confirmation that my next three TS10s on order shipped from Aliexpress today.

Thank you for posting that. I’ve been waiting for mine to ship out from AE also. That’s encouraging.

CRC2
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Correllux wrote:
CRC most of our usual emitters won’t do this until you really go super hot rod with a light design. FET drivers that let all the juice flow will usually get hot but with healthy cells and our usual circuit designs there’s nothing to worry about. This light is a little different with the emitter choice. And again, we don’t seem to know any more at this moment about exactly why at least two light have failed.

So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650’s to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

Streamtronics
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CRC2 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
CRC most of our usual emitters won't do this until you really go super hot rod with a light design. FET drivers that let all the juice flow will usually get hot but with healthy cells and our usual circuit designs there's nothing to worry about. This light is a little different with the emitter choice. And again, we don't seem to know any more at this moment about exactly why at least two light have failed.
So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650's to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

No, it's fine. Dual channel Emisar lights are regulated by default, same linear regulation that people would like to see in TS10. 

jon_slider
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Streamtronics wrote:
Dual channel Emisar lights are regulated by default, same linear regulation that people would like to see in TS10.
Is there any increase in heat risk from using an H10 battery (10A drain rate), with linear regulation as opposed to the existing FET in the TS10?
Miguel_79
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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
Sorry the champagne, purple, blue, green and grey these colors are on hold for now. Because our PMC and warehouse partners were complaining that we made too many tags at the same time on TS10, which would affect the production and storage of other products. Just for now, black+red+white, 4000k+6000k, red/blue/orange/green, we have 3*2*4=24 style models. Including the allocation of raw materials, it is also necessary to re-run the audit meeting to make a decision.

Do you know when Wurkkos will start shipping the silver/white ones?

Correllux
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CRC2 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
CRC most of our usual emitters won’t do this until you really go super hot rod with a light design. FET drivers that let all the juice flow will usually get hot but with healthy cells and our usual circuit designs there’s nothing to worry about. This light is a little different with the emitter choice. And again, we don’t seem to know any more at this moment about exactly why at least two light have failed.

So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650’s to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

No…as said, it’s totally fine. The driver is a good one and the light as a package is made to handle what you can throw at it. That, but also those Samsung emitters are the “usual” types that are used in most lights and we have been using and abusing for over a decade as “we” began to push emitters harder, challenging the datasheets’ max figures, etc. We have lots of experience and tests with that one and most other emitters. These little micro chippy smd emitters from Latticepower don’t have that testing that we’re aware of, and they’re also constructed differently so they can’t handle as much heat and/or need probably more attention to heat dissipation than what we give other emitters/flashlight designs in general. But that said, we still don’t know for sure why one emitter in one light failed (we know that Zumlin believes his similar Nichia E21A emitters that he swapped into his TS10 host failed due to a poor quality reflow (soldering) and another failed after being toasted too hot on his hotplate…so not much to arrive at any conclusions here, and other people (including myself) are turboing this light with an H10 cell just fine so far).

Seems to be a lot of confusion and possibly some misinformation floating around the internet right now because of this as to cells and circuits. But generally, with most light designs and healthy available cells to buy, it’s not a big issue – just some differences in light output for some. We don’t know fully yet about the TS10 but your D4SV2 will be happy with anything you can put into it.

As a side note example, when you ordered that light from Hank he matched the driver design/output with the emitters you picked. If you had picked something like the E21A or 219B emitters, he would have used a different driver that puts out less current because those two emitters don’t like the same amount of heat that other emitters can cope with. Most light designs take all of this stuff into account and are tested for awhile before being sold to the public, so what you get should be fine and if there are special cautions they’ll usually state such (like no 14500 in a light designed for 1.5v AA cells…using matched high drain/low resistance cells in a multi-cell light…protected cells in a light that uses cells in series instead of parallel…etc).

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jon_slider wrote:
Is there any increase in heat risk from using an H10 battery (10A drain rate), with linear regulation as opposed to the existing FET in the TS10?

No. The heat generated by LEDs in direct drive far exceed the heat created by the linear driver here.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

CRC2
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Streamtronics wrote:

CRC2 wrote:
Correllux wrote:
CRC most of our usual emitters won’t do this until you really go super hot rod with a light design. FET drivers that let all the juice flow will usually get hot but with healthy cells and our usual circuit designs there’s nothing to worry about. This light is a little different with the emitter choice. And again, we don’t seem to know any more at this moment about exactly why at least two light have failed.
So can anyone tell me if it possible or impossible for my 40A IJOY 26650’s to harm my dual channel emisar d4sv2 with lh351d/w1?

No, it’s fine. Dual channel Emisar lights are regulated by default, same linear regulation that people would like to see in TS10. 

Correllux wrote:
No…as said, it’s totally fine. The driver is a good one and the light as a package is made to handle what you can throw at it. That, but also those Samsung emitters are the “usual” types that are used in most lights and we have been using and abusing for over a decade as “we” began to push emitters harder, challenging the datasheets’ max figures, etc. We have lots of experience and tests with that one and most other emitters. These little micro chippy smd emitters from Latticepower don’t have that testing that we’re aware of, and they’re also constructed differently so they can’t handle as much heat and/or need probably more attention to heat dissipation than what we give other emitters/flashlight designs in general. But that said, we still don’t know for sure why one emitter in one light failed (we know that Zumlin believes his similar Nichia E21A emitters that he swapped into his TS10 host failed due to a poor quality reflow (soldering) and another failed after being toasted too hot on his hotplate…so not much to arrive at any conclusions here, and other people (including myself) are turboing this light with an H10 cell just fine so far).

Seems to be a lot of confusion and possibly some misinformation floating around the internet right now because of this as to cells and circuits. But generally, with most light designs and healthy available cells to buy, it’s not a big issue – just some differences in light output for some. We don’t know fully yet about the TS10 but your D4SV2 will be happy with anything you can put into it.

As a side note example, when you ordered that light from Hank he matched the driver design/output with the emitters you picked. If you had picked something like the E21A or 219B emitters, he would have used a different driver that puts out less current because those two emitters don’t like the same amount of heat that other emitters can cope with. Most light designs take all of this stuff into account and are tested for awhile before being sold to the public, so what you get should be fine and if there are special cautions they’ll usually state such (like no 14500 in a light designed for 1.5v AA cells…using matched high drain/low resistance cells in a multi-cell light…protected cells in a light that uses cells in series instead of parallel…etc).

Thank you very much guys.
This helps to put my mind at ease.

UVChemist
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Anyone know if the tail cap is removable or if it’s glued like the bezel? I got a tail switch that’s not clicking down consistently and was trying to see if I could fix it.

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