【Brass on Sale】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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sesgum
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I wish to order a silver 4000k but it is OOS everywhere. Anyone know when it will be restocked?

shirnask
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sesgum wrote:
I wish to order a silver 4000k but it is OOS everywhere. Anyone know when it will be restocked?

Wurkkos Terry wrote:

Wurkkos Terry wrote:
Umpi2000 wrote:
When will the Wuurkos store have stock again?
According to our PMC plan. The third batch of TS10 will be available on 7.25th.
Jan910
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gchart wrote:
SammysHP wrote:
Anyone with an idea how this could be set up in a nice way? ToyKeeper, gchart, thefreeman?
Nice test! I'm a bit torn about be dynamic underclocking. We same a few mA of current draw from the reduced clock speed, but at the cost of slower PWM and some minor inconsistency in the ramp output. It's all in the trade-offs. So what do we value more? * Lower lows with lower power consumption but slower PWM? * Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM? * Higher lows with lower power consumption and faster PWM?

 

A great job!!! 

 

For me: Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM. 

Wurkkos ts10 Black + silver 5800k
Wizard pro xp-l
Kd8.2 xhp50.2 2700k
Fw3a xpl hi 5000k
S2+ lh351d 5000k
S2+ x-pl 6500k
S2+ sst10 UV 365nm
S2+ xp-e2 620nm
Sofirn d25LR
Wurkkos ts21 219 Red

RichH
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sesgum wrote:
I wish to order a silver 4000k but it is OOS everywhere. Anyone know when it will be restocked?

I’ve just received mine today, must have been close to the end of the second batch. The very pale silver and cyan aux lights look great. I’m just wondering if a cooler white LED might have complemented the icy look of the light better?

South Saxon

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I just got my red 5.8kK TS10 yesterday. This is my first tail e-switch light, and I have a question.

What, exactly, does loosening the head do in this type of light? My aux lights slowly ramp off, and the tail switch activates these weird, random momentary ramping (sometimes flashing) modes. I can’t find them on any Andúril ui chart.

Firelight2
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Loosening the tailcap disconnects the inner tube and disables main power.

However, the outer-body is still connected to the head which powers the switch channel. Anduril 2 does weird stuff when only the switch channel is connected to power. I think the stuff its doing is intentional, but I’m not sure what it’s for.

jon_slider
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manithree wrote:
What, exactly, does loosening the head do in this type of light?
see https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1870595#comment-1870595

and

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1871082#comment-1871082

manithree
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Firelight2 wrote:
Loosening the tailcap disconnects the inner tube and disables main power.

However, the outer-body is still connected to the head which powers the switch channel. Anduril 2 does weird stuff when only the switch channel is connected to power. I think the stuff its doing is intentional, but I’m not sure what it’s for.

I can’t loosen the tailcap on mine. It’s too small and too tight. I don’t have a strap wrench that small, either.

With the head loosened enough that the aux lights go off, everything seems momentary on the e-switch, so I guess that’s safe enough for pocket carry. I’ll probably try without that at first, since it doesn’t seem that likely to activate in my pocket, anyway.

Limsup
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manithree wrote:
What, exactly, does loosening the head do in this type of light? My aux lights slowly ramp off, and the tail switch activates these weird, random momentary ramping (sometimes flashing) modes. I can’t find them on any Andúril ui chart.

Here is a relevant comment from Toykeeper.
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1657273#comment-1657273

When the head is loosened, main power is disconnected. However, small amount of power through the switch can power up the light. In this state, the light is in reset mode. If you keep pressing the switch while the main power is disconnected, it will begin reset procedure after blinking for about 3 seconds.

If you loosen the head of TS10, your light will not turn on (and drain the battery). But it can reset the light if pressed more than 3 seconds.

I have seen this behavior in KR4 and TS10, but NOT in FW3A. My FW3A switch is completely disabled when I loosen the head.

manithree
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Limsup wrote:
Here is a relevant comment from Toykeeper. https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1657273

Hmm. Mine does the ramp up while blinking, but then it just shuts off when it gets to the top of the ramp. If I let it ramp all the way up in blinking mode, then the next time I hit the button, it ramps up with no blinking and stays on at the top of the ramp, but isn’t anywhere near full power. Then if let off the switch, the next time it ramps up blinking. And it just alternates between those two, but only if I let it ramp all the way to the top in blinking ramp.

I don’t know what the reset is supposed to do, but mine came set to muggle mode with the aux leds on high in standby. I’ve changed to advanced mode and set the aux leds to low, and after a long time playing with the head loosened mode, neither of those have reset yet.

Limsup
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manithree wrote:
I’ve changed to advanced mode and set the aux leds to low, and after a long time playing with the head loosened mode, neither of those have reset yet.

When I reset my TS10 (loosen head and keep pressing the switch until ramp ends), it was reset to advanced mode with low AUX. I know mine was reset because my memory and ramp settings were gone.

Limsup
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manithree wrote:
Hmm. Mine does the ramp up while blinking, but then it just shuts off when it gets to the top of the ramp. If I let it ramp all the way up in blinking mode, then the next time I hit the button, it ramps up with no blinking and stays on at the top of the ramp, but isn’t anywhere near full power. Then if let off the switch, the next time it ramps up blinking. And it just alternates between those two, but only if I let it ramp all the way to the top in blinking ramp.

When I loosen the head and keep pressing the switch right after, mine also ramps up to about 30 lumens. If I keep pressing the switch the light eventually dims to the lowest level. Also, the light turn off when I release the switch. If I press the switch after that I am in the reset mode. I am guessing this may be due to the electricity remaining in the circuit.

jon_slider
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Limsup wrote:
manithree wrote:
Hmm. Mine does the ramp up while blinking, but then it just shuts off when it gets to the top of the ramp. If I let it ramp all the way up in blinking mode, then the next time I hit the button, it ramps up with no blinking and stays on at the top of the ramp, but isn’t anywhere near full power. Then if let off the switch, the next time it ramps up blinking. And it just alternates between those two, but only if I let it ramp all the way to the top in blinking ramp.

When I loosen the head and keep pressing the switch right after, mine also ramps up to about 30 lumens. If I keep pressing the switch the light eventually dims to the lowest level. Also, the light turn off when I release the switch. If I press the switch after that I am in the reset mode. I am guessing this may be due to the electricity remaining in the circuit.

sounds like loosening the head is a BAD Idea.

Limsup
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jon_slider wrote:
sounds like loosening the head is a BAD Idea.

It has pros and cons. It prevents accidental activation, but risks resetting the light. The risk of resetting the light is quite low, because the switch has to be depressed for more than three seconds. On the other hand, if you carry the light without loosening the head, there is relatively high risk of enabling turbo. I think double clicking is much more likely than a three-second long press.

I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.

jon_slider
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Limsup wrote:
I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.
totally respect your choice

what are some advantages for you, of unscrewing the head, instead of using normal 4C lockout?

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4C Lockout with timed enable works so well. The 4 clicks become second nature, I am not so sure why many people do not like the feature. Granted, all of my FW’s are firmmodded for 5C timer set, 10 C is a bit of a pain.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Limsup
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jon_slider wrote:
what are some advantages for you, of unscrewing the head, instead of using normal 4C lockout?

It is simple and quick! For me, it is much quicker to tighten or loosen the head than clicking the switch four times. Also, I don’t have to guess or remember whether it is in lock-out mode.

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Limsup wrote:
For me, it is much quicker to tighten or loosen the head than clicking the switch four times. Also, I don’t have to guess or remember whether it is in lock-out mode.
Excellent points, thanks..
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jon_slider wrote:
sounds like loosening the head is a BAD Idea.

Any light I have that has either an internal tube or “active tailcap” (or just non-ano threads), if I want it locked out, I physically remove the cell.

Don’t have a KR or FW, but that includes the TM03, ED20-T, Tacklife, etc.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Correllux wrote:

Do you know if the light was tested with H10 while using turbo repeatedly? I think the previous events/concerns had more to do with excessive heat caused by continuously forcing the light into turbo mode after it had stepped down, so the light was running hotter than it usually would, for longer periods than what is shown in the video. I’ve been using mine with H10 and trying to keep it hot, but not excessively, and so far so good…if it fails I’ll just consider it a donation to science. Smile

Haha, let’s do a donation to science! lol
I have also using my red and white TS10 with turbo mode to repeatedly test whether it will go out.
Its temperature is not easy to control, the 1400 lumen brightness will make it quickly hot.
After 2 times with Turbo mode, it began to quickly reduce brightness too.
Then I pinched their clip in one hand and double -click repeatedly with the nails of the thumb with another hand.
Fanally, it can’t light up more.
Summary: the power of only 1 piece 14500 battery cannot cause damage to the CSP2323. If many batteries with repeatedly performed Turbo test, it may cause LED to broken.

maba
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The red 4000K also arrived.

Great are these leds, I hope they will be in other flashlights too Big Smile

sesgum
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Thank you Shirnask!

RavenII
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For anyone wondering, the clip from an Olight S1R Baton II works great on this light.

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It's not perfect, but comes without the jumps.

Level 1 uses clock/4 and pulses at 611 Hz for reduced power consumption. All other levels are at 2.9 kHz or above (up to 19.6 kHz at level >64).

The first 25-30 levels are in the non-linear region, but seem to ramp quite OK. I also tried to go even lower and got about 0.001 lm or less, but I don't think it would be reliable enough (temperature, battery voltage etc). Even with this configuration the ramp shape might change depending on the environment.

Anyway, here you go:

Configuration: https://gist.github.com/SammysHP/5acd7390cba7d252bd304d0cba1e1ea5

Hex: https://cloud.finf.uni-hannover.de/s/YDBbZak4P3oMs2i

The hex comes with some additional features:

  • Two more aux LED patterns: off / low / high / fancy blink / blink low / blink high
  • Aux LED low voltage protection
  • Smoother sunset timer
  • Allow turbo in momentary mode (go to turbo, then to momentary via 5C)
  • PocketUI: Shifts some button mappings from off to make lockout obsolete. Can be enabled via the misc options menu (from off 9H, then 1C to enable or nothing to disable). Changed or new mappings are:
    Mode		UI	Button	Action
    ----		--	------	------
    Off		Any	1C	Nothing
    Off		Any	1H	On (momentary floor level)
    Off		Any	2C	On (ramp mode, memorized level)
    Off		Any	2H	On (ramp mode, floor level)
    Off		Any	3C	On (ramp mode, ceiling level)
    Off		Simple	3H	On (momentary ceiling level)
    Off		Full	3H	On (momentary turbo)
    Off		Any	4C	Battcheck mode
    Off		Full	4H	Strobe mode (whichever was used last)
    Off		Any	5C	Lockout mode
    Off		Full	6C	Momentary mode
    
    Ramp		Any	5C	Lockout mode
    Ramp		Full	6C	Momentary mode
    
    Lockout		Any	1C/1H	Nothing
    Lockout		Any	2C/2H	Nothing
    Lockout		Any	3C	Nothing
    Lockout		Any	4C	Nothing
    Lockout		Any	4H	Nothing
    Lockout		Any	5C	Unlock (go to "Off" mode)
    
RichH
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jon_slider wrote:
Limsup wrote:
I like to loosen the head of my KR4 to prevent accidental activation by the way.
totally respect your choice

what are some advantages for you, of unscrewing the head, instead of using normal 4C lockout?

As you know Jon, I’m having some issues with mine. I like the 4C lockout in Anduril but my TS10 is behaving strangely.

4C puts the light into flashing aux mode, hi/lo flashes. Pressing the button doesn’t offer momentary moonlight or low, the two locked out options. Instead the torch ramps back up as if switched on without the lockout enabled.

While in the 4C (supposedly locked out mode), no matter how many times I try the 7C to change the aux from flashing to low, nothing changes.

While in normal off mode, the aux are dim. 7C from off doesn’t change the aux at all, it remains on low brightness.

No amount of factory resetting, battery removal, extra tightening of the head, or cleaning excess lube makes any difference at all. I can’t lock the light out or change the aux settings.

South Saxon

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RichH wrote:

No amount of factory resetting, battery removal, extra tightening of the head, or cleaning excess lube makes any difference at all. I can’t lock the light out or change the aux settings.
sorry to hear

one more thought.. remove battery, tighten head, lose tight, loose then tight.. a few times.. my thought is to seat and get good contact of the two endtubes, into the head.

if after that the light still does not go into normal lockout when you 4C,

I would say you tried everything and it is time to ask Wurkkos to help with your defective light.

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Are you in Advanced mode?

I don’t think 7C does anything if you are in basic mode.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I don’t think 7C does anything if you are in basic mode.

true, but 4C works in both simple and advanced,

and his report sounds like the light will not lock out on 4C.. it goes disco instead..

gchart
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SammysHP wrote:

It’s not perfect, but comes without the jumps.

Level 1 uses clock/4 and pulses at 611 Hz for reduced power consumption. All other levels are at 2.9 kHz or above (up to 19.6 kHz at level >64)….


Thanks for doing the legwork on that! I’ll throw that ramp info in my config file and see how it goes on mine.

I also really like that PocketUI you’ve added. Kinda reminds me of what Rovyvon does.

zoulas
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This is sounding like an andruil issue and not a light issue.

If you don’t click the exact way you are supposed to, it does not register.

Also, as was mentioned, the UI is so complicated and so counter intuitive that you may be in a place down the menu tree where the function you are entering is not valid.

Bottom line, don’t lose sleep over it.

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