【Brass on Sale】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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tactical_grizzly
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There’s been a bit of general discussion about the included pocket clip having some issues. Wurkkos, here are some specific things you can do to make a better pocket clip, with a render to help illustrate. The clip shown below will function much better than the current pocket clip design. I hope you’ll produce an updated pocket clip similar to this one shown below and include it with TS10, SP10 Pro, and HS05 in the future. If so, I hope you’ll also make it available for purchase so people who have the old clip can buy the new clip easily.

mattlward
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OMG that clip would finish the light off properly! Maybe a little less hook on the entry point so it does not get caught on a seat belt.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

tactical_grizzly
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mattlward wrote:
OMG that clip would finish the light off properly! Maybe a little less hook on the entry point so it does not get caught on a seat belt.

The hook on the end is important so that the clip gets hooked on pants material easily. To avoid getting caught on a seatbelt, the stock clip is good.

mattlward
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
mattlward wrote:
OMG that clip would finish the light off properly! Maybe a little less hook on the entry point so it does not get caught on a seat belt.

The hook on the end is important so that the clip gets hooked on pants material easily. To avoid getting caught on a seatbelt, the stock clip is good.

I would respectfully disagree as a left front pocket EDC guy. I have trashed to many clips that way.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

tactical_grizzly
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mattlward wrote:
tactical_grizzly wrote:
mattlward wrote:
OMG that clip would finish the light off properly! Maybe a little less hook on the entry point so it does not get caught on a seat belt.

The hook on the end is important so that the clip gets hooked on pants material easily. To avoid getting caught on a seatbelt, the stock clip is good.

I would respectfully disagree as a left front pocket EDC guy. I have trashed to many clips that way.

Understandable.

I also carry my lights in my front pocket but I have never had this issue. Where in your front pocket do you keep the light? Do you keep it on the far edge of your pocket closest to your hip or do you keep it somewhere else?

In order to minimize the chance of snagging on a seatbelt, but also still being able to “snag” a pocket, how wide should the mouth of the clip be? I find 3mm between the body of the light and the end of the clip to be ideal for me.

Would you rather the clip sit flush with the side of the light to eliminate snagging? If so, how do you clip it to your pocket? Do you lift up on the clip when inserting the light into your pocket?

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It’s funny to me how the clips on flashlights are so troublesome, I personally haven’t had any trouble.

If we’re just dreaming here I would like a few threaded holes and a flat spot on the side of the tail cap so I could install a clip from a Spyderco, Benchmade, or even a simple 2 hole clip like zero tolerance or dozens of other knife companies use.

But I’m sure I’m in the minority as my pocket knife is in my front right pocket and depending on the light or pants, my flashlight is next to my knife in pocket or clipped inside the 5th pocket. Where I probably differ is I also wear an insulin pump in a pocket clip holster. So my pockets are always loaded up
KalmJ
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That clip design is perfect TG. I’ve got two TS10’s so far and would love to buy more. The current clip is the only part I dislike about the light.
I would be happy for this on future models and would purchase two more to replace my current ones.

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Plasmatoast wrote:
It’s funny to me how the clips on flashlights are so troublesome, I personally haven’t had any trouble.

I never have trouble with pocket-clips…

As soon as I get the light, I take off the damned things and forget about ‘em.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

jon_slider
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
Wurkkos, here are some specific things you can do to make a better pocket clip
Great suggestion..

fwiw
This Lumintop E05C clip works really well, here is where you can buy it
.

I think it would be great if the TS10 shipped with that clip. It does not snag and is low profile. The gap on the inside of the garment loop is 2.5mm.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
There’s been a bit of general discussion about the included pocket clip having some issues. Wurkkos, here are some specific things you can do to make a better pocket clip, with a render to help illustrate. The clip shown below will function much better than the current pocket clip design. I hope you’ll produce an updated pocket clip similar to this one shown below and include it with TS10, SP10 Pro, and HS05 in the future. If so, I hope you’ll also make it available for purchase so people who have the old clip can buy the new clip easily.

!https://i.imgur.com/fObcBJT.jpg!

This looks perfect TG!

I’ve tried the E05C clip. It’s ok, but the bend at the top of the clip is a bit tight and it often fails to go all the way in when clipped to sweat pants. And the lip at the bottom is a bit small making slipping it onto pants not as easy as I’d like.

jon_slider
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for sweatpants you would probably like this Olight S Mini clip. The garment gap is 3.3mm
.
for my preferences the Olight clip sticks out too far, the Lumintop clip rides closer to the body of the light, and works well with lighter material I wear:

the downside is there is no hatclip option with these clips

some of the Olight clips with S bends might be appealing to some people:
.
pic is a link

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Will wait for copper and brass of this nice new EDC model. Thumbs Up

At first glance, it reminds me of the Lumintop FW3A.

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Thanks for all the aftermarket suggestions Jon_Slider! Those are excellent options for current TS10 owners. That S-Mini clip looks just about perfect! If you find them for sale anywhere, let me know.

Hopefully Wurkkos will see all this clip discussion and make a new, better clip to include with TS10 so we don’t need to spend extra on aftermarket options.

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I think a two way clip would be an improvement on TG design. The TS10 is actually a very good headlamp when you clip it to a baseball cap. It’s so light that you barely feel it.

I very rarely need a headlamp so I don’t own one. The TS10 is now my go to and only headlamp.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
mattlward wrote:
tactical_grizzly wrote:
mattlward wrote:
OMG that clip would finish the light off properly! Maybe a little less hook on the entry point so it does not get caught on a seat belt.

The hook on the end is important so that the clip gets hooked on pants material easily. To avoid getting caught on a seatbelt, the stock clip is good.

I would respectfully disagree as a left front pocket EDC guy. I have trashed to many clips that way.

Understandable.

I also carry my lights in my front pocket but I have never had this issue. Where in your front pocket do you keep the light? Do you keep it on the far edge of your pocket closest to your hip or do you keep it somewhere else?

In order to minimize the chance of snagging on a seatbelt, but also still being able to “snag” a pocket, how wide should the mouth of the clip be? I find 3mm between the body of the light and the end of the clip to be ideal for me.

Would you rather the clip sit flush with the side of the light to eliminate snagging? If so, how do you clip it to your pocket? Do you lift up on the clip when inserting the light into your pocket?

So, I carry in my left front jeans pocket at what I would call the outside of the pocket, next to the side seam. The deep carry clip that I love and would go for on every light is the KR4 clip, the new style one. Lately, I have been carrying and FW1A with Neal’s deep clip and it has worked fairly well for me. To me, rather than a hook, placing the fold in the clip at the right part of the body and not placing tons of tension against the body seems to be a perfect fit. It usually takes me a few days to get accustomed to a new clip and most will work fine with one hand, I do not like having to pull the clip out to attach to jeans. The FW1A really does have the perfect angle and tiny bit of extension to make the slide into a pocket work.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

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fogofwar wrote:
I think a two way clip would be an improvement on TG design. The TS10 is actually a very good headlamp when you clip it to a baseball cap. It’s so light that you barely feel it.

I very rarely need a headlamp so I don’t own one. The TS10 is now my go to and only headlamp.


2-way clips are IF you actually wear ball caps and clip your light to them.

If you’re like me and never use your light that way, then 2-way clips are always inferior to 1-way clips. For my use, the extra backbend is a complete waste. It usually sticks out too much, adds unnecessary weight and gets caught on things.

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I spent some time this morning attempting to draw a new 3-way clip design that carries over all the important 1-way features but I belive that a 2-way clip designed to work well in both directions and to carry deep is too bulky for such a small light.

The existing 2-way clip does not work well primarily because it is too small. There’s not enough ramp/mouth at the front of the clip in either direction to slide it over clothing material or the brim of most baseball caps. There’s also not enough space inside the reverse loop to fit the brim of all the baseball caps I’ve tried. In the design below, I’ve had to make the ramps/mouths large enough to fit over clothing material or hat brims and I’ve made the space inside large enough for most baseball cap brims. The result is quite bulky and I do not recommend Wurkkos produce it.

The Olight clip that Jon_Slider has suggested does not carry as deep nor does it have any ramp at the frond end, but I think it’s the best option for the seemingly few users who find the 2-way clip function important. Wurkkos should focus on including a great 1-way clip with TS10.

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Thank you sir for all your efforts here. I am one of the few who uses the two-way clip, carrying a small light on my hats daily. I have been rotating my two TS10’s since receiving. As you have stated, the stock clip is insufficient for any real use. I ordered a few of the Olight clips that work well enough.

Thanks!

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I know many people use clips and that’s fine obviously, I never do. But I do WISH manufacturers wouldn’t ship them with the clip already on, as no matter how careful you are removing them nearly always ends up with a little damage to the coating or finish with removal. If they were shipped in the box rather than on the light those who want them on can put them on and not worry about damaging the finish because it’s under the clip, and those of us who hate clips would have a pristine light with no damage Big Smile

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jon_slider wrote:
tactical_grizzly wrote:
Wurkkos, here are some specific things you can do to make a better pocket clip
Great suggestion..

fwiw
This Lumintop E05C clip works really well, here is where you can buy it
.

I think it would be great if the TS10 shipped with that clip. It does not snag and is low profile. The gap on the inside of the garment loop is 2.5mm.

Thanks for link. Ordered 2, paid around 15€ so they ain’t exactly cheap, but they do work best.

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G0OSE wrote:
I know many people use clips and that’s fine obviously, I never do. But I do WISH manufacturers wouldn’t ship them with the clip already on, as no matter how careful you are removing them nearly always ends up with a little damage to the coating or finish with removal. If they were shipped in the box rather than on the light those who want them on can put them on and not worry about damaging the finish because it’s under the clip, and those of us who hate clips would have a pristine light with no damage Big Smile

FWIW, my red TS10 was shipped without the clip attached to the light (thank you Wurkkos). I’m with you on preserving the finish. I did attach the provided clip, because the light is too small and smooth to securely handle (for my clumsy mitts anyway). I used the plastic straw trick (over the ears) to install it without boogering up the finish…works spectacularly. Removing it? That might be a different story.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
I spent some time this morning attempting to draw a new 3-way clip design that carries over all the important 1-way features but I belive that a 2-way clip designed to work well in both directions and to carry deep is too bulky for such a small light.

The existing 2-way clip does not work well primarily because it is too small. There’s not enough ramp/mouth at the front of the clip in either direction to slide it over clothing material or the brim of most baseball caps. There’s also not enough space inside the reverse loop to fit the brim of all the baseball caps I’ve tried. In the design below, I’ve had to make the ramps/mouths large enough to fit over clothing material or hat brims and I’ve made the space inside large enough for most baseball cap brims. The result is quite bulky and I do not recommend Wurkkos produce it.

The Olight clip that Jon_Slider has suggested does not carry as deep nor does it have any ramp at the frond end, but I think it’s the best option for the seemingly few users who find the 2-way clip function important. Wurkkos should focus on including a great 1-way clip with TS10.

That is the idea that I have, I think you could shorten the clip and allow it sit below the head line for less stick out.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

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The Olight clip works great for me. I have had no problems either with clipping the light in my pocket nor with it falling out since I got them. I don’t find it to be too bulky for the light. Honestly, I could do without the second loop, though can see it coming in handy at certain times. There is something to be said for flexibility.
I also ordered some of the Lumintop E05C clips mentioned in several places. It should be a bit smaller, but I will have to see if ease of use and retention is adequate. Unfortunately the package has not moved in status of “parcel information received” for 8 days. Who knows when they might show up…if ever.
I think I will buy some more of the Olight clips. BTW those showed up in about 4 days from the US facility. They also work very well for the several SP10 lights that I have.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
There’s been a bit of general discussion about the included pocket clip having some issues. Wurkkos, here are some specific things you can do to make a better pocket clip, with a render to help illustrate. The clip shown below will function much better than the current pocket clip design. I hope you’ll produce an updated pocket clip similar to this one shown below and include it with TS10, SP10 Pro, and HS05 in the future. If so, I hope you’ll also make it available for purchase so people who have the old clip can buy the new clip easily.

!https://i.imgur.com/fObcBJT.jpg!

Agree with all except the ramp call in the bottom right.

The issue with ramped clips is that they make it too easy to scratch up car doors when getting in/out or passing through a parking lot.

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lightsout wrote:
tactical_grizzly wrote:
There’s been a bit of general discussion about the included pocket clip having some issues. Wurkkos, here are some specific things you can do to make a better pocket clip, with a render to help illustrate. The clip shown below will function much better than the current pocket clip design. I hope you’ll produce an updated pocket clip similar to this one shown below and include it with TS10, SP10 Pro, and HS05 in the future. If so, I hope you’ll also make it available for purchase so people who have the old clip can buy the new clip easily.

!https://i.imgur.com/fObcBJT.jpg!

Agree with all except the ramp call in the bottom right.

The issue with ramped clips is that they make it too easy to scratch up car doors when getting in/out or passing through a parking lot.

Can you be more specific? I don’t understand how you can have a pocket clip without a ramp. By ramp, I mean some kind of opening at the mouth of the clip to grab your pants material. Without a ramp it would just lay flat against the side of the light and you’d have to lift it up every time you want to pocket the light. Can you provide an example of a pocket clip that handles this ramp area better?

lightsout
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I guess I should elaborate. The ramp sticks out too much, the slope should be minimal. For examples, I had this Ausus Knife and it scratched up the shit out of everything because its clip sticks out.

But this knife that I use now doesn’t give me a problem:

The clip in your mockup sticks out too much consider squeezing between two tight cars in a parking lot with that shape sticking out of your pocket.

jon_slider
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Firelight2 wrote:
fogofwar wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
Westie wrote:
Asking for a friend Blushing
LOL .

Lol does the light actually work? I like the FW button more.

I just tried that with mine.

It does not work. The FWAA is wired so that main power flows in the outer body tube while the inner tube is used for switch connection. The TS10 is wired the other way around. This means the FWAA’s tailcap is wired incorrectly for the TS10’s driver and the light does not function properly.

When I tried it, the light started flickering, the same way it does when pressing the button on a TS10 that has been physically locked out

I later realized my TS10 had been reset, all my floors and ceilings had gone back to default. I just spent some quality time multiclicking and checking outputs on my light meter.. I really should make a backup of my custom TS10 Anduril settings..

I like
ceilings at 110/150
floors at 1/150
1H from off to give floor and NOT start ramping automatically
I disable 2C to Turbo, so 2C only gives ceiling
thermal limit set to 50C
ramping speed option 2 (slower)
manual memory set to 10 lumens, with 10 minute hybrid memory

moral of the story.. its not nice to fool w TS10/FWAA headswaps

===

tactical_grizzly wrote:
I don’t understand how you can have a pocket clip without a ramp. …Without a ramp it would just lay flat against the side of the light and you’d have to lift it up every time you want to pocket the light.
.
Thanks for your drawings and ideas.

I want to focus on your 3mm gap mentioned earlier. I think a measurement for the ramp of the clip tip, is also helpful to specify.

I do lift the blade of the E05C to help it over the edge of my pocket.. the clip ramp is very short, just 2.0mm, and sudden, and is only 1.7mm above the body of the light. It is not ideal.

The tip of the clip on the TCR-1 on the right, sits 2mm above the body, plus the ramp is 7mm long. That is a very convenient gap, for my jeans (pocket seam material is 2.2mm thick) and light slacks I wear (pocket seam 1.5mm). That is my favorite pocket clip.

So I propose redrawing your pictured clip w 2mm ramp height off the body, with a 7mm long ramp, and 3mm gap at the top of the garment curve. See if that produces a more compact profile, more suitable for the size of the TS10.

I do wear baseball caps, and I do clip lights to my baseball cap, instead of wearing a dedicated headlamp. But I agree with others comments that the stock TS10/SC21 Pro/SP10 Pro clip is almost too small to be useable on a hat brim because the gap at the curve of the clip is so narrow, 2.7mm, it barely pushes onto a baseball cap brim, which is 4mm thick.

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Sorry trying to catch up on 30 pages here, but hard to find information on these CSP2323 emitters.

Sounds like they are high CRI. Are they known more for flood than throw?

How is efficiency compared to SST20 or LH351d?

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thefreeman wrote:
Low AUX mode with anduril … ~70uA max for red,…more than 2 years with a 1000mAh cell and a red AUX LED on low.

zumlin wrote:

I took some measurements of the drain of my TS10 with orange aux before.

Aux off: 5uA

Orange aux on low: 123uA

Orange aux on high: 7.8mA

SammysHP wrote:
Yes, multi color LEDs are safe and single color in Anduril 2 if you use the blinking mode.

Could someone please measure the parasitic drain of TS10 Aux on blinking mode?

just wondering how many days to drain a battery if using blinking Aux..

fwiw, I do have the LVP patch installed, but it still makes me wonder how long a battery will last, even with LVP.

for example, battery life on Bright Aux is less than 5 days, even with LVP.. that is not a useful mode.

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jon_slider wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
Low AUX mode with anduril … ~70uA max for red,…more than 2 years with a 1000mAh cell and a red AUX LED on low.

zumlin wrote:

I took some measurements of the drain of my TS10 with orange aux before.

Aux off: 5uA

Orange aux on low: 123uA

Orange aux on high: 7.8mA

SammysHP wrote:
Yes, multi color LEDs are safe and single color in Anduril 2 if you use the blinking mode.

Could someone please measure the parasitic drain of TS10 Aux on blinking mode?

just wondering how many days to drain a battery if using blinking Aux..

fwiw, I do have the LVP patch installed, but it still makes me wonder how long a battery will last, even with LVP.

for example, battery life on Bright Aux is less than 5 days, even with LVP.. that is not a useful mode.

I don’t think you can measure it with a multimeter like with the low or high mode. When you measure it, the current changes with each blink, there would not be a stable current to read at all. I am not sure how we can measure it accurately.

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