Need advice for Olight S1 emitter swap

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Westie
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Need advice for Olight S1 emitter swap

I have an Olight S1 that I loved to EDC because it was versatile.
Now that it’s not so new, with a few scratches and when I have other lights, I decided to do an emitter swap to get rid of the blue tint.

I read about the teardown procedure. I have the necessary tools.

The original LED is a Cree XM-L2 CW and I would like to swap it with a Nichia 219B SW4500 because I never tried it I would like to see what the fuss is about.

From what I know the LEDs are the same size so the footprint should be the same, right?
The S1 pulls around 1.5A on high so too much current shouldn’t be a problem. I’m expecting some loss but I hope the 219B won’t be too dimm compared to the XM-L2. Would a 219C or 519A be a better option?

The second issue is the plastic lens. Will it fit the dome of the new LED?
Can I swap it with something else? A TIR optic or something?

BlueSwordM
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1. No, they are not the same footprint.

You know understand our struggle when it comes to replacing 3V XM-L2 sized(5050) LEDs :/

2. It’ll fit, just less optimally.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Westie
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BlueSwordM wrote:
1. No, they are not the same footprint.

You know understand our struggle when it comes to replacing 3V XM-L2 sized(5050) LEDs :/

2. It’ll fit, just less optimally.

Damn. So now I need to take it apart and measure the PCB or find it online and maybe there’s a similar sized PCB with the LED already soldered on or is it more complicated?

BlueSwordM
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Yeah that’s it.

Measure the MCPCB diameter or find the measurements and then replace it with the same sized MCPCB with the LED already soldered on.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

jon_slider
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Westie wrote:
maybe there’s a similar sized PCB with the LED already soldered on or is it more complicated?
yes,

they have a 10mm mcpcb you can fit in your olight.. the 16mm wont fit (if your S1 is the same internal diameter as my S Mini)

here is a photo albumb of an olight mod I did to 219b https://imgur.com/a/vST9xPf

I buy spare 12mm mcpcb, onto which I install 219b and 519a myself. It lets me choose LEDs I like best

here is another light that I removed an XM-L2 and installed a Nichia 519a, there are photos of all the different softgoods and hardware I used to do the mod:
https://imgur.com/a/ObPJ11a

yes, you can mod an olight, the hard part is getting the bezel off, and back on, you can use the stock Tir, and if the beam is less than acceptable, you can upgrade to a 17mm pebbled Tir for XM size LEDs https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32630479277.html it works with Nichia also, as there is no 17mm option for nichia size

this thread shows both optics on my S Mini
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/80230

good luck w your mod.. will be happy to help answer questions

pc_light
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Westie wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
1. No, they are not the same footprint.

You know understand our struggle when it comes to replacing 3V XM-L2 sized(5050) LEDs :/

2. It’ll fit, just less optimally.

Damn. So now I need to take it apart and measure the PCB or find it online and maybe there’s a similar sized PCB with the LED already soldered on or is it more complicated?
FWIW, the OL S1 Mini LED PCB is both different in diameter and thinner than standard off the shelf PCBs. I wound up reducing in size and thickness a 16mm for a Hi-CRI LH351D (3535 footprint) LED. The regular sized S1 might be different.

The reason for starting with a 16mm (larger) PCB was to ensure adequate clearance between optic and the mounting pads.

Original 16mmx1.5mm MCPCB (left), resized/thinned MCPCB used in mod (middle), Original S1 5050 PCB (right)

Emjoy the experience.

On the light side.

NeutralFan
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Very helpful pics pc_light!

You can do this Westie. Thumbs Up

To me, replacing the XM-L2 with a 219B would be worth the effort. Especially if you don’t currently have any, including the legendary sw45k! Worse comes to worse, you can still put the old LED/MCPCB back in.

I have some flashlights with XM-L2 LEDs, but I don’t use them much due to the lower CRI and greenish tint. But they do have a lot of lumens and are perfectly fine outside.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Unheard
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There are nice XM-L2s of lower CCT. Less work, clean beam. Just saying.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

Westie
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jon_slider wrote:
Westie wrote:
maybe there’s a similar sized PCB with the LED already soldered on or is it more complicated?
yes,

they have a 10mm mcpcb you can fit in your olight.. the 16mm wont fit (if your S1 is the same internal diameter as my S Mini)

here is a photo albumb of an olight mod I did to 219b https://imgur.com/a/vST9xPf

I buy spare 12mm mcpcb, onto which I install 219b and 519a myself. It lets me choose LEDs I like best

here is another light that I removed an XM-L2 and installed a Nichia 519a, there are photos of all the different softgoods and hardware I used to do the mod:
https://imgur.com/a/ObPJ11a

yes, you can mod an olight, the hard part is getting the bezel off, and back on, you can use the stock Tir, and if the beam is less than acceptable, you can upgrade to a 17mm pebbled Tir for XM size LEDs https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32630479277.html it works with Nichia also, as there is no 17mm option for nichia size

this thread shows both optics on my S Mini
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/80230

good luck w your mod.. will be happy to help answer questions

Thanks. I’ll have to study everything when I have a bit more time. I’m trying to source everything from AliExpress if possible because of the new customs laws. It’s much more convenient through AliExpress.

pc_light wrote:
Westie wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
1. No, they are not the same footprint.

You know understand our struggle when it comes to replacing 3V XM-L2 sized(5050) LEDs :/

2. It’ll fit, just less optimally.

Damn. So now I need to take it apart and measure the PCB or find it online and maybe there’s a similar sized PCB with the LED already soldered on or is it more complicated?
FWIW, the OL S1 Mini LED PCB is both different in diameter and thinner than standard off the shelf PCBs. I wound up reducing in size and thickness a 16mm for a Hi-CRI LH351D (3535 footprint) LED. The regular sized S1 might be different.

The reason for starting with a 16mm (larger) PCB was to ensure adequate clearance between optic and the mounting pads.

Original 16mmx1.5mm MCPCB (left), resized/thinned MCPCB used in mod (middle), Original S1 5050 PCB (right)

Emjoy the experience.

Thank you. Does grinding down the PCB decrease the thermal conductivity? The Nichia should get hotter since it’s high CRI, right?

Unheard wrote:
There are nice XM-L2s of lower CCT. Less work, clean beam. Just saying.

I’m open for suggestions

Unheard
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I bought 3000K CRI90 xml2s from kaidomain. One is now in my S1RII. The advantage is that it works with the standard optics.

S1RII vs. Utorch S1 Mini N219B sw30

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

Geuzzz
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And put in some glow while you have it open.

jon_slider
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Unheard wrote:
I bought 3000K CRI90 xml2s from kaidomain.
not available there

mouser has them

OP needs to learn how to reflow:

pics of modding products and process in this album:
https://imgur.com/a/ObPJ11a

pc_light
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Westie wrote:
…Does grinding down the PCB decrease the thermal conductivity? The Nichia should get hotter since it’s high CRI, right?
There will be a reduction of about ~30% of the MCPCB mass from resizing which will reduce it’s heatsink capacity but that doesn’t change the thermal conductivity between MCPCB and the light body/shelf. Just be sure both matting surfaces are flat and smooth, and aid the transfer with a little thermal compound and good fit (ever so slight downward press) between optic and MCPCB.

The hi-CRI emitter will be slightly hotter due to lower efficiency compared to the original XM-L, but this light isn’t operatimg at extreme currents and should be fine.

I put a Nichia 219B in an S-mini Ti and a LH351D in an S-mini Al and neither have heat issues.

On the light side.

Westie
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Unheard wrote:
I bought 3000K CRI90 xml2s from kaidomain. One is now in my S1RII. The advantage is that it works with the standard optics.

S1RII vs. Utorch S1 Mini N219B sw30

I’ll see if can find it. I prefer AliExpress because they have the IOSS tax system implement which makes it cheaper and easier to buy. They also have cheaper shipping which is important with things like these where the shipping could be more expensive than the product itself.

Geuzzz wrote:

And put in some glow while you have it open.

Glow in the dark powder or silicone ring?

jon_slider wrote:
Unheard wrote:
I bought 3000K CRI90 xml2s from kaidomain.
not available there

mouser has them

OP needs to learn how to reflow:

pics of modding products and process in this album:
https://imgur.com/a/ObPJ11a

Can’t be that hard Smile
I found 140°C soldering paste. Hopefully that isn’t too low lol.
I have other things going on and I still didn’t order everything I need.

Geuzzz
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Westie wrote:

Geuzzz wrote:

And put in some glow while you have it open.

Glow in the dark powder or silicone ring?

Glow tape around the inside wall.

Unheard
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Westie wrote:

Can’t be that hard Smile


Right. It’s sometimes more difficult to desolder the wires.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

pc_light
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Unheard wrote:
Right. It’s sometimes more difficult to desolder the wires.
… sometimes you open it up and there aren’t any wires? Wink

On the light side.

MascaratumB
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pc_light wrote:
Unheard wrote:
Right. It’s sometimes more difficult to desolder the wires.
… sometimes you open it up and there aren’t any wires? Wink

I believe that image is from a M1T Raider or an i3T EOS, ain’t it? Their side switch lights normally have wires to the PCB.

I remember someone modded one of those a long time ago, maybe in the “What did you mod today?” thread!

Unheard
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pc_light wrote:
Unheard wrote:
Right. It’s sometimes more difficult to desolder the wires.
… sometimes you open it up and there aren’t any wires? Wink


The two solder blobs may hide wires or posts I presume?

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

pc_light
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Yeah, posts underneath. Had to wick solder away to get ‘em.

That particular image is from OL i3T mod but I’ve come across in other Olight, Surefire, 47s and Acebeam models as well.

And let’s not forget the Zebralight, etc. types also without because the LED is mounted directly on driver board (eek).

Does make for a clean look and secure hold though.

On the light side.