Hi all, just grabbed a l21b flashy and I’ve got no 21700 cell at hand, would it work a 18650 vtc6 having soldered a tip on it? On the outside maybe some tape to get some more thickness, to avoid wobbling around the cell inside ? What do you guys think about it? Just a temp solution,of course
我觉得可以
A 18650 will work just fine. You might try some o-rings rather than wrapping it to keep it from rattling in the body.
Get proper 18650 to 21700 adapter instead. Like this Fenix ...
https://www.fenixlighting.com/product/alf-18-battery-holder/
Just search 18650 to 21700 adapter/ converter from the internet.
Not particularly looking for adapter, as I do have 21700 cells ,but not at my hand right now, that was the only reason to solder a button (thicker one) to gain the necessary length to reach the 21700 one.
I think you’re fine as is. The VTC6 cells are well insulated at the + end so as long as that’s still intact then that and the brass post are going to prevent shorting even with a little movement…certainly an o-ring or something else to help center it is a good idea, though. If the length is an issue maybe you could add a slug on the - end rather than trying to build up the + with a ton of solder.
Yes thank you all, I’ve just tested with a little boob soldered on - and works well - this new sft 40 is nice , but light makes two donuts, the small one plus another one around - I would prefer the light to be concentrated , and wonder if there might be any way to improve it?
Are you seeing the normal beam or is there something wonky about your light? I guess I’d first check that the gasket is seated and centered, reflector sitting on that nicely. Sometimes solder blobs at the emitter or spatter on the board (or fat solder on the led wires) can throw things off a little. If I remember, Simon had to play with the gasket thickness to get the best focus vs. the flat white Osram emitter in there.
If it’s all normal and you just don’t like that beam, I suppose you could swap for an SST-40 with the dome and that might make the spot/corona blend together a little better. I don’t think there’s an OP reflector option for that one and dc-fix film would probably be a bad idea on a thrower like this. On the flip side, if you were to swap for the flat white Osram emitter, that would really tighten up the hotspot at the expense of some of that useful corona light when you’re looking downrange. Not sure but I’d suspect that an XHP50 would look kind of ugly in this reflector and you’d lose a ton of throw.
On the wall shots,there are two donuts very visible , I would of expect a more concentrated beam , as comparing with flat osram. In real life , the light looks better, even though there is plenty of side spill . I thought about that gasket , if there would be any way to improve the beam and clean the reflector , as there are cleaning marks and dust on it. Besides these issues , light looks nice, perfect size , probably not the best option for rear switch, but I can deal with it. The gasket and led does look to be centered , so thickness might have to do with the beam .
I’m not sure if you’re describing rings or just normal defined parts of a beam, but this light was rather purpose built to have the beam it does…geared and developed for night hunting and weapon mount (light weight thrower and hence the tail switch). I can’t remember which emitter used the thinner vs thicker gasket but if you look back at Funtastic’s threads I’m sure it’s described there, and he did a great video with beamshots (and others did, too). Might help to tell if you’re seeing normal L21B or if there’s something amiss. I’m sure you already know to be extra careful if you need to clean or touch the inside surface of the reflector. It’s an impressive package - I didn’t get one because I love my FT03 enough already.
Well, i still have my ft03, wild track etc…. I was hoping/wishing a total concentrated beam in one donut only, now there are two of em, the inner circle and another one around it. I’ve only cleaned reflector once and learned to avoid it, so my approach would be very carefully testing small areas on the edges, before getting inside of it.
I understand there were some beam shots relating this light, wonder if there would be any room for improving the beam with Another gasket
We need to see some pictures of the donuts you described. It’s difficult to help without seeing what’s going on.
There’s a pretty limited range in height adjustment and what that will change…most of it is the shape of the reflector itself and the proportion of emitter surface area to reflector dimensions (and of course dome vs. no dome on the emitter). I’m thinking going to a domed emitter would be the logical step to get what you want. You can play around a little running the light with the bezel off and using some sort of shim to lift the reflector a tiny amount, see what it does, or removing the gasket (if that will lower the reflector at all…it’s lipped to rest on the top of the head…and of course be cautious of electrical shorts from contact with the metal reflector). But there really isn’t much room for adjustment one way or the other before the beam starts getting weird…this is true with most reflectors.
I’ve just watched this video , that cleared my mind to know what should I expect and what shouldn’t I ….
That culpm1 seams an interesting option , I remember once I’ve had an armyteck barracuda xplhi ,what a wonderful beam….but is dead