JKK76 7*SFT40 and 7*SFN55.2

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2100
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Ok people, i have gotten some data/answers with some testing from my cells. Sharing here since most are high lumen chasers here and hence battery info ought to be welcomed (even though we get it mostly from lygte/mooch/vaping community etc).

Namely my Samsung 50G, Samsung 40T, Lishen 21700LA (4000mAh) and Lishen 21700HP (3000mAh)…on the JKK76.

All cells fully charged and pretty new/new.

RAW numbers on the meter. JKK76 6500k SFN 55.2 ceiling bounce. Springs are bypassed with rolled up aluminum foil connecting top to bottom part of the spring. The foil is probably around 10 awg thereabouts, more than sufficient, stock spring is decent enough too, but not sure if capable of doing 30-33 amps.

3pcs 50G = 2100 range.
1pc = never test.

3pcs 40T = 2300 range.
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700LA = 2300 range
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700HP = 2300 range
1pc = 1400 range.

Obviously the driver is trying to limit pure output. Reason? Trying to protect the SFN 55.2s?

If it’s pure drive drive, i ought to be doing 4200 in theory (of coz it wont hit that in reality). ie the Lishen 21700HP should not be the limiting factor, neither should the springs…..at least not for the first 1-2 seconds. So it should be able to do 33k lumens easy, if not in pure DD it should be pushing over 40k @ turn on

My Amutorch DM70 with 4pcs cree 70.2s 6500k is pushing 1900 range on the meter.

Of coz not that it matters in reality, just a useless flasholic rambling. Facepalm

fogofwar
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Jin Heng tends to be quite conservative with their drivers.

2100
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Ok my bad….i re-checked the official info and 33k lumens turbo mode is not direct drive.

直驱 = direct drive according to my understanding, and also according to google translate.
恒流 = constant current

I wonder what it really means when they put 直驱 on that line regarding 450m illum distance and 150k cd light intensity. It’s coz i really did come across this 直驱/direct drive words that led me to believe that the turbo is DD.

But then to be honest, 40k lumens at turn on with non-70.2 levels of efficiency on Samsung 30T or LS 21700HP is really no joke in terms of heat.

2100
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2100 wrote:
Ok people, i have gotten some data/answers with some testing from my cells. Sharing here since most are high lumen chasers here and hence battery info ought to be welcomed (even though we get it mostly from lygte/mooch/vaping community etc).

Namely my Samsung 50G, Samsung 40T, Lishen 21700LA (4000mAh) and Lishen 21700HP (3000mAh)…on the JKK76.

All cells fully charged and pretty new/new.

RAW numbers on the meter. JKK76 6500k SFN 55.2 ceiling bounce. Springs are bypassed with rolled up aluminum foil connecting top to bottom part of the spring. The foil is probably around 10 awg thereabouts, more than sufficient, stock spring is decent enough too, but not sure if capable of doing 30-33 amps.

3pcs 50G = 2100 range.
1pc = never test.

3pcs 40T = 2300 range.
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700LA = 2300 range
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700HP = 2300 range
1pc = 1400 range.

Obviously the driver is trying to limit pure output. Reason? Trying to protect the SFN 55.2s?

If it’s pure drive drive, i ought to be doing 4200 in theory (of coz it wont hit that in reality). ie the Lishen 21700HP should not be the limiting factor, neither should the springs…..at least not for the first 1-2 seconds. So it should be able to do 33k lumens easy, if not in pure DD it should be pushing over 40k @ turn on

My Amutorch DM70 with 4pcs cree 70.2s 6500k is pushing 1900 range on the meter.

Of coz not that it matters in reality, just a useless flasholic rambling. Facepalm

ps. Oh just thought of this. Was originally wondering if bypass improves the initial few seconds of output or not. From the data above, we can conclude that the stock springs are more than sufficient, ie don’t bother bypassing.

But using high amp cells is a must. for eg, the 15A 50G barely makes it, only consider that if you need the 5000mAh. ie very few turbo uses and that is not the main focus, > 90% in lower modes. For short hobby walks playing with Turbo mainly and runtime is not an issue, then nah…….

BlueSwordM
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Actually, always bypass if you can.

Lower resistance = better battery life Big Smile

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

2100
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BlueSwordM wrote:
Actually, always bypass if you can.

Lower resistance = better battery life Big Smile

Not an electrical expert here and perhaps i am missing something, but i thought the cell does not really care in this case……

Ok put it in another way……
ie in this case of the JKK76…..say we are doing 25000lm and drawing 25 amps at the head’s contacts (for eg, not sure abt exact fig), bypassing or not bypassing is still 25 amps.
Coz this is not the limiting factor. The driver is the limiting factor.

For other stuff like BLF/Sofirn Q8, then yeah. I don’t have that many lights so maybe there are even better egs.

edit – oh ok ok, i think i know what you are driving at. The slightly less resistance = battery battery run time. Not what i originally thought of “better battery life” as in “cell health”. Beer Big Smile Big Smile Ugh…..for a moment i had a brain block. lol Cash
Anyway, i think this would be an extremely extremely small difference.

Loafglenn
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I’m just waiting for mine in the mail but I was wondering, should my Samsung 30t be good for their high amp discharge and higher wattage than the 40t

2100
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Loafglenn wrote:
I’m just waiting for mine in the mail but I was wondering, should my Samsung 30t be good for their high amp discharge and higher wattage than the 40t

Check my above output results for the Lishen 21700HP vs the 21700LA, 3000mAh and 4000mAh respectively (claimed). Discharge amps / light output single cell of this 21700HP results mirror that of my Samsung 40T, of coz assuming that my Samsung 40T is legit. Should be, 1200 raw on my meter ceiling bounced = 14-15k lumens OTF easy. Single cell man, no joke.

Use the 40T or similar, it’s 4000mAh and should sustain longer cumulative turbo duration and perhaps high-high mode (5000lm) cumulative duration as well.

There is no gain with using 30T or Lishen 21700HP. In other lights like the 2 cell Nightwatch Chaos, yes probably……there is output gains to be had.

In fact, i think Vapcell has a “new” 20A 5000mAh cell, not sure what is the true manufacturer/model, not an expert, but if it is indeed true 20A CDR, then that’d be really good for this JKK76 use. But i remember that is really $$$ costly. The Lishen 21700LA only costed me like usd 7 for 3 and shipping weight cost is like usd 1.50 for the 3pcs. Cash

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@loafglenn, you’ll get more output at the beginning, but less at the end.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

2100
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As found out in my test and above post……I don’t think there would be more output in the beginning. Originally i was hoping that this is true (i was even hoping for it to gun close to 40k)….. Cash lol. Also note the last bolded line. That is very telling already, in addition tot he 21700HP vs 21700LA figures.

3pcs 50G = 2100 range.
1pc = never test.

3pcs 40T = 2300 range.
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700LA = 2300 range
1pc = 1200 range

3pcs Lishen 21700HP = 2300 range
1pc = 1400 range.

Note. HP = 3000mAh, LA = 4000mAh.

2100
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Loafglenn wrote:
I’m just waiting for mine in the mail but I was wondering, should my Samsung 30t be good for their high amp discharge and higher wattage than the 40t

Oh one more thing…..you ordered the 18k lm SFT40s right. In fact you might be interested in the 50Gs or similar, it should easily be sufficient for SFT40…15A cells. The SFN 55.2s are no efficiency master from what i compared with Cree 70.2s.

edit – oh sorry, that fella is Lunaloves and not you, upon checking 1 page ago. You ordered the SFN 55.2?

Loafglenn
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2100 wrote:
Loafglenn wrote:
I’m just waiting for mine in the mail but I was wondering, should my Samsung 30t be good for their high amp discharge and higher wattage than the 40t

Oh one more thing…..you ordered the 18k lm SFT40s right. In fact you might be interested in the 50Gs or similar, it should easily be sufficient for SFT40…15A cells. The SFN 55.2s are no efficiency master from what i compared with Cree 70.2s.

edit – oh sorry, that fella is Lunaloves and not you, upon checking 1 page ago. You ordered the SFN 55.2?

It took me a while to mule over which one I wanted but I ended up ordering the stf40. I really wanted high lumens but the throw is what got me.

I’m gonna see how the build is on this and if I can finesse my wife into letting me “try” the floody sfn55s.

When I say try, I’m sure she’ll make me do a catch and release with either.

2100
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Loafglenn wrote:

It took me a while to mule over which one I wanted but I ended up ordering the stf40. I really wanted high lumens but the throw is what got me.

I’m gonna see how the build is on this and if I can finesse my wife into letting me “try” the floody sfn55s.

When I say try, I’m sure she’ll make me do a catch and release with either.

The build is decent/functional. Sofirn kinda quality, is good to use. In fact i prefer the matt finishing on my black JKK76 than Sofirn’s more glossy finish. The silver version is darn pretty also. You won’t go wrong with silver.

Yep bro…really depends on what you are after and under what conditions/environments. If you do have an illumination use for farther objects, the tighter hotspot is good and more useful, other than the high cd.
Good to know that at least in your area you’d be able to sell your lights, in my country it’s nearly impossible to do so with these “unbranded” lights unless if it is rock bottom prices, read say usd 40 for a mint JKK76 with cells + charger inclusive. If this were Acebeam, it’d move fast, no doubt.

For “pointing” fun purposes, i already have like 3 lasers and one with a special beam expander.
Also as a side topic, i always have a funny feeling that i might get into trouble for pointing at other people’s apartments. So, i have been wondering if i were to get these floody high cd “throwers” then i think legally I might have a case for proving that i wasn’t trying to point at any apartment in particular or worse cars/aircrafts. No definitely i am not that kind of an a-hole Sick pointing at cars or worse aircrafts, but just in case. Oops

For eg my block to my nearest block is 200 metres away. I can illuminate 2-3 whole blocks solidly with my lights, namely 2pcs JKK76, 1pc Amutorch DM70, 1pc Sofirn Q8 Pro. I mean, 4 hands, my kid and mine. Party Other scenes include my son’s school and wooded areas, 20 to 40 meters away….. that one is really WTF bright, heh.
We get into low mode, double click for turbo, 5 seconds then single click to get back into low mode. heh…..
Some wierd family bonding time also, i suppose. Party Rather healthy also, these flashlight hobby walks.
In my country, there are many other much more costly hobbies/activities that others dabble in….heh.

2100
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Someone asked for beamshots, apologies i could only do white wall types comparing the spots sizes.

BLF Q8 5000k and JKK76 SFN 55.2, at – 1 stop exposure and then 0.0 stop.
Q8 is SMO, JKK76 orange peel

Q8 has a pretty well defined central hotspot, JKK76 orange peel’s edges are diffused…typical beam profile of both reflector types.

2100
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Vid posted 7 days earlier. Post first watch later…..
ps it’s not me in the vid

LunaLoves
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nice torch, I just can’t quite fall in love with the UI personally

Does anyone have pictures of the driver?

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I just pulled the trigger on the sfn55 3000k JKK76, from kaidoman. Really looking forward to seeing a > 20,000 lumen light with 3000k LEDs. 

I have my expectations set realistically, I have modded and bought enough LEDs and Flashlights to realize the tint might not be great and probably isn't, and also it's probably not doing 30,000 lm with 3000 K LEDs. Regardless I feel like I'm in for quite the treat at $92!!

Especially after selling my MK38 Sft40 which I regret. 

and I order probably $100 a month from kaidoman in LEDs as They have some great ones (hi cri xhp35 HI , 70.3 and 50.3 HI, hi cri) and they're free shipping and pretty quick shipping is never disappointed me. And they've never messed up an order. They're a great site to deal with! 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Loafglenn
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ArtieT59 wrote:

I just pulled the trigger on the sfn55 3000k JKK76, from kaidoman. Really looking forward to seeing a > 20,000 lumen light with 3000k LEDs. 

I have my expectations set realistically, I have modded and bought enough LEDs and Flashlights to realize the tint might not be great and probably isn’t, and also it’s probably not doing 30,000 lm with 3000 K LEDs. Regardless I feel like I’m in for quite the treat at $92!!

Especially after selling my MK38 Sft40 which I regret. 

and I order probably $100 a month from kaidoman in LEDs as They have some great ones (hi cri xhp35 HI , 70.3 and 50.3 HI, hi cri) and they’re free shipping and pretty quick shipping is never disappointed me. And they’ve never messed up an order. They’re a great site to deal with! 

Artie, I’m glad to see you finally pulled the plug and getting this light. I look forward to you taking it apart and flashing some anduril on it.

2100
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ArtieT59 wrote:

I just pulled the trigger on the sfn55 3000k JKK76, from kaidoman. Really looking forward to seeing a > 20,000 lumen light with 3000k LEDs. 

I have my expectations set realistically, I have modded and bought enough LEDs and Flashlights to realize the tint might not be great and probably isn’t, and also it’s probably not doing 30,000 lm with 3000 K LEDs. Regardless I feel like I’m in for quite the treat at $92!!

Especially after selling my MK38 Sft40 which I regret. 

and I order probably $100 a month from kaidoman in LEDs as They have some great ones (hi cri xhp35 HI , 70.3 and 50.3 HI, hi cri) and they’re free shipping and pretty quick shipping is never disappointed me. And they’ve never messed up an order. They’re a great site to deal with! 

Great……it’s just for fun and “special feeling”. I hope you are not a sole purveyor of tint or CRI / R9070 or those things, coz it wouldn’t be nice / natural looking. But if you want something special + fun, this is gonna be it, just because like i mentioned above there are very few lights that are 3000K and are floody throwers, or are gonna be f***ing costly. There are, of course as you’d know it, tons of lights in the 1000 to 2000+ lumens range at 3000K. I like high CRI lights in a way but i don’t chase this route endlessly as it never gels with high output.

I measured over 20k lumens output, in fact raw numbers on the light meter would be like 2200 lux for the 3000K and 2500 lux for the 6500k version. This is a very small gap between 3000K vs 6500K, usually the difference / efficiency hit is much bigger, and it’s likely that the LEDs are all driven the same. So definitely the tint/CRI/look won’t be like your Philips or even Opple LED bulbs @ 3000K. This is pretty yellow, but no green stuff at any of the modes. It is also very workable and mimics incandescent at output levels 1 and 2 with a ceiling bounce, so it’s not without its practical uses.

ps. I measured this to be 130-140k cd range. Not a true thrower kinda territory, but it is not shabby at all. Just only like 3 years ago I and quite a few BLFers were excited with the Sofirn Q8 at 90-100k cd, even though it was just 5000 lumens.

BlueSwordM
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Hello. Did someone mention low CRI?

Sick Sick Sick

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

2100
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Heh…..well if one cannot or does not have the time to change/reflow 7 emitters and design/mod their own drivers, one can only look at the Manker MK38 @ 3000K 90 CRI (70.3 HI) from the VN fella, i think Vinh something. Very obvious that his market is not gonna be here in BLF….
Can’t even guess how much that one’s going to cost…..
Of course there would be other +ve with that kind of a light as well, like better performance in various areas, other than the CRI solely

edit – oh….the Acebeam X50 High CRI as well, just that it is not 3000K…but it’d still do for some.

All options are not cheap. Best not to chase this route esp if can’t DIY.

Loafglenn
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“ Some chips”:https://imgur.com/a/RPRNKUS

I took apart the battery tail screws and found these mosfet chips but I think some desoldering is involved in finding the driver on the head.

Sorry if this picture don’t come through. I’m still somewhat new to the forums formating

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Really? Are the ultra budget priced, high powered flashlight threads now getting spammed for CRI too? Did you hit the new Nightwatch NS59v1 thread too for not having high CRI? Or is it just because this one is 3000k and people shouldn't be able to get excited for Warm White unless it's also ultra super high R9 99CRI+? I'll contain my excitement next time. 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

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2100 wrote:
Heh.....well if one cannot or does not have the time to change/reflow 7 emitters and design/mod their own drivers, one can only look at the Manker MK38 @ 3000K 90 CRI (70.3 HI) from the VN fella, i think Vinh something. Very obvious that his market is not gonna be here in BLF.... Can't even guess how much that one's going to cost..... Of course there would be other +ve with that kind of a light as well, like better performance in various areas, other than the CRI solely edit - oh....the Acebeam X50 High CRI as well, just that it is not 3000K...but it'd still do for some. All options are not cheap. Best not to chase this route esp if can't DIY.

 

and to further your point- I could easily mod the mk38 with 90CRI 70.3 HI LEDS, would be no problem have it done in under an hour- if I was able to spend $350 on the mk38 from manker's site and ANOTHER  7 x $13.80 = $96+ For (7) LEDs from Kaidoman.com or mouser. So... $446 for a mk38 so I can have HI CRI (and yes a boost driver i know, and it's better made) or $92 for 3000k , 25,000+ lumens without hi Cri. I think at >25,000lumens I'll be able to distinguish a stick from a snake and save myself $300+ 

 

also, I've owned the mk38, it's awesome. But it doesn't make the jkk not awesome either. 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

BOMBAY
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ArtieT59 wrote:

2100 wrote:
Heh…..well if one cannot or does not have the time to change/reflow 7 emitters and design/mod their own drivers, one can only look at the Manker MK38 @ 3000K 90 CRI (70.3 HI) from the VN fella, i think Vinh something. Very obvious that his market is not gonna be here in BLF…. Can’t even guess how much that one’s going to cost….. Of course there would be other ve with that kind of a light as well, like better performance in various areas, other than the CRI solely edit – oh….the Acebeam X50 High CRI as well, just that it is not 3000K…but it’d still do for some. All options are not cheap. Best not to chase this route esp if can’t DIY.

 

and to further your point- I could easily mod the mk38 with 90CRI 70.3 HI LEDS, would be no problem have it done in under an hour- if I was able to spend $350 on the mk38 from manker’s site and ANOTHER  7 × $13.80 = $96 For (7) LEDs from Kaidoman.com or mouser. So… $446 for a mk38 so I can have HI CRI (and yes a boost driver i know, and it’s better made) or $92 for 3000k , 25,000+ lumens without hi Cri. I think at >25,000lumens I’ll be able to distinguish a stick from a snake and save myself $300+ 

 

also, I’ve owned the mk38, it’s awesome. But it doesn’t make the jkk not awesome either. 

8 × $13.8 Wink

Loafglenn
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So just to put it into perspective, the jkk76 with the sfn55.2 can it be moded to 7x xhp70.3 for that hi-cri floody throw? Both of these emitters are 7070 but the xhp70.3 are 6v and the sfns are 3v.

LunaLoves
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Loafglenn wrote:
So just to put it into perspective, the jkk76 with the sfn55.2 can it be moded to 7x xhp70.3 for that hi-cri floody throw? Both of these emitters are 7070 but the xhp70.3 are 6v and the sfns are 3v.

No, but you could probably drop in an SFQ60 warmwhite high cri
SFQ60 7070 LED

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2100 wrote:
Ok my bad….i re-checked the official info and 33k lumens turbo mode is not direct drive.

直驱 = direct drive according to my understanding, and also according to google translate.
恒流 = constant current

I wonder what it really means when they put 直驱 on that line regarding 450m illum distance and 150k cd light intensity. It’s coz i really did come across this 直驱/direct drive words that led me to believe that the turbo is DD.

But then to be honest, 40k lumens at turn on with non-70.2 levels of efficiency on Samsung 30T or LS 21700HP is really no joke in terms of heat.

!{width:40%}https://imgur.com/abTfCFS.jpg!


Stumble upon this JKK76 today on KD, got interested in it and then discovered this discussion thread. Thanks for the sharing 2100, apparently it is a winner especially at this price. I am kinda concerned about the heat issue here tho because as I read one of the reviews of Nightwatch NS59v1 which runs 9*SFQ55 emitters at the end of the reviewer’s test one of the emitters got some sort of burn mark on it. Maybe it’s true as you and other BLFers mentioned that while these Chinese LEDs offer great value in the lumens department, they are relatively inefficient as compared with CREE LEDs, so at high current as this there could be reliability issue. But if it’s as what you tested, that Jinheng has somehow limited the current draw in its driver then maybe I could give it a shot.

Apart from that, 150kcd should translate itself into 775m of ANSI beam distance, not sure why they mentioned 450m on their page tho. Anyway if you measure 120~130kcd in your case then it is around 700m in ANSI which is still pretty impressive, not that you can actually see things at 700m in practicality given such an enormous amount of lumens but still, it is mind boggling in perspective. 26k lumens with 700m of beam distance at such a price, it’s really not bad of a deal afterall.

Edit: I still have my two units of BTU Shocker with me, one modded by myself with dedomed XM-L2 + DRY driver back then and another one still in stock form. They are still rocking!

texas shooter
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This light still tempts me. I just can’t get into the super bright but not too efficient SFN55.2 LED’s.

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