Olight Warrior Mini 2 won't hold turbo?

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longuylander
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Olight Warrior Mini 2 won't hold turbo?

So I picked up one of the limited edition, “royal blue” Warrior Mini 2s back in April. Besides the length, it is an improvement over the original Warrior Mini in every way (including not turning on by itself!) There’s just one problem I’ve been experiencing…

When engaging turbo, either through the tail switch or a double click on the side switch, it starts out nice and bright. But within five seconds, it throttles down to high output. This is what it’s supposed to do after four minutes! The light hasn’t even had the chance to build up any heat yet.

Now, if I shut it off and turn it back on, it will be brighter again, but not near its maximum – closer to 1200-1300 lumens instead of 1750 (comparing it to the Baton 3, which is rated at 1200 lumens but seems to be brighter than that). It will stay at that output for several minutes before dimming down.

I thought it was the battery being unable to support the draw of full turbo at first, that maybe I got a bum battery. I tried a different one (the one from the Warrior Mini 1) but got the same result. But if I turn off the light before it’s dropped to high mode and then turn it back on, it starts in full turbo again and then properly stays at that level for several minutes before throttling back to high (as it is supposed to).

Has anybody else had this experience? Any ideas what may be causing it? I sent an email to Olight’s customer service about this, and I’m interested to see what their opinion is too.

Pepito
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I would think it’s the battery but you said you had similar results with another one. Could it be the proximity sensor picking up the light and then dimming down?

ChrisGarrett
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Try a cell from the Big Five: Sanyo/Panasonic, Sony/Murata, Samsung, or LG and see what you see.

Olight has had some issues with their branded cells in high drain lights.

Chris

longuylander
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I’d try a different battery, but Olight uses their annoying proprietary battery for this light. And besides, there are times when it will sustain its turbo like it’s supposed to. Just fiddling with it, having it on medium for a minute or two then activating turbo resulted in full power with no throttling down for at least thirty seconds (until I was convinced it wasn’t dimming).

I thought it might be the sensor too at first, but when the sensor is blocked the light drops immediately to around 200 lumens. This is a clear ramping downward, as if the throttling back the light is programmed to do after four minutes occurs in five seconds.

ChrisGarrett
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Never buy a light that uses a proprietary battery.

Never.

Chris

Rayoui
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I have the exact same problem with mine. If I turn it off and back on again, it will return to a higher brightness but not full turbo (just like yours). I also considered the proximity sensor, so I opened it up and plugged the light pipe (thereby disabling the proximity sensor) and it made no difference.

The first day I carried the light, I had it turn on in my pocket several times, even with the lockout mode activated. The side switch stands too proud and is much too easy to activate. It must have been held down while I was sitting or something.

I’ve had enough issues with it that it’s now relegated to the shelf. This light was an unfortunate waste of money in my opinion.

gravelmonkey
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Have you checked the threads are clean and making good contact?

longuylander
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gravelmonkey wrote:
Have you checked the threads are clean and making good contact?

This was Olight’s suggestion. I cleaned the spring in the tail and the contacts in the head. Still same problem. Olight’s other suggestion if that did not work was to send it back for repair. I might do that, so long as they can confirm repair and not replacement, as it is a limited edition version.

zoulas
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ChrisGarrett wrote:
Never buy a light that uses a proprietary battery.

Never.

Chris

I have been very vocal about this on BLF. Olight and any company that uses proprietary batteries puts our hobby back in time.

In the 80s, Eveready used standard batteries.

In the 90s, Maglite used standard batteries.

In the 2000s, Nitecore and Fenix used standard batteries.

Why the hell would you not use standard batteries today.

Makes no sense.