Let's try to strart a new BLF project light in AA format

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wle
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i would not use AA

i would use CR123A cells

smaller, more energy, 20 year shelf life, no leaking

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derfyled
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wle wrote:
i would not use AA

i would use CR123A cells

smaller, more energy, 20 year shelf life, no leaking

I totally agree with you on the benefits of lithium. That’s why I mentioned L91. All the same advantage of CR123 in an AA format. Then, in case of super-emergencies, AA are available everywhere.

derfyled
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jon_slider wrote:

Sofirn C01S is on flash sale
https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/sofirn-c01s-aaa-flashlight-sst20-40... and has all these features you asked for:
> twisty
> cheap
> high CRI
> 2 modes
> starts on low
> tritium slot

some of my impressions of the C01S:
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74136


Thanks Jon, I might have to go that way with such a deal. I guess I’ll compromise and I’ll use L92…
wle
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I have never had a good experience with L91 type AA ‘ultimate lithium’ cells

seems like they don;t really have very high peak current

cameras hate them, i know that

i think the chemistry is different from CR123A types

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
    Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster.   
-Greg Lemond.
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derfyled
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wle wrote:
I have never had a good experience with L91 type AA ‘ultimate lithium’ cells

seems like they don;t really have very high peak current

cameras hate them, i know that

i think the chemistry is different from CR123A types

Really? Been using them since around 20 years and I never had any problem with any. I might have been lucky ? About the peak current, I honestly have no idea. The only thing I know is that the voltage is slightly different from alkalines, (1,7v vs 1,5).

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derfyled wrote:
If a Twisty light is unreliable, then it has been poorly machined or it’s a driver problem. Beside a bad thread, there is virtually no way a twisty switch can fail.

Tell that to my KL02s…

The foam-rubber “washer” that separates the negative end of the cell from the nubbin on the tail is more like memory-foam, in that it “gives” and eventually makes contact anyway. Loosen again, and again it collapses and makes contact. Rinse, repeat, ‘til the tailcap just pops off.

Could probably replace that with a fat o-ring, but I shouldn’t have to.

That said, I like twisties, and the Jetbeams I (AA) and II (‘123) are quite nice.

But you will not get a “vampire” circuit with ANY kind of smarts. Just boosting the voltage to run a µC negates the vampirism.

“Joule thief” circuits are hardwired to wring out as much juice from the paltriest of supplies for as long as possible.

The 3buk AA light from MicroStore is about as good as you’ll get, as it’ll drag down a cell to half a volt or so as long as it’s left on. Nasty CW light, but the emitter can be swapped out easily (16mm round, iirr), and the reflector is about the perfect size of a 20mm TIR lens for a much better beam.

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derfyled
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Lightbringer wrote:
derfyled wrote:
If a Twisty light is unreliable, then it has been poorly machined or it’s a driver problem. Beside a bad thread, there is virtually no way a twisty switch can fail.

Tell that to my KL02s…

The foam-rubber “washer” that separates the negative end of the cell from the nubbin on the tail is more like memory-foam, in that it “gives” and eventually makes contact anyway. Loosen again, and again it collapses and makes contact. Rinse, repeat, ‘til the tailcap just pops off.

Could probably replace that with a fat o-ring, but I shouldn’t have to.

That said, I like twisties, and the Jetbeams I (AA) and II (‘123) are quite nice.

But you will not get a “vampire” circuit with ANY kind of smarts. Just boosting the voltage to run a µC negates the vampirism.

“Joule thief” circuits are hardwired to wring out as much juice from the paltriest of supplies for as long as possible.

The 3buk AA light from MicroStore is about as good as you’ll get, as it’ll drag down a cell to half a volt or so as long as it’s left on. Nasty CW light, but the emitter can be swapped out easily (16mm round, iirr), and the reflector is about the perfect size of a 20mm TIR lens for a much better beam.

I understand and I’m also not a fan of foam ring in twisties. Bad experiences all the way back from the Jetbeam C-LE in 2005 (yep… I’m that old…). It’s not a good design and most ‘‘modern’‘ twisties don’t use them anymore.

You got my interest with the 3$ Microstore. Never seen these, where can I find them ? A quick search didn’t do it…

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derfyled wrote:
…a project for the ARC aaa flashlight 20 years ago (don’t remember if it has ever seen the day)…
There was a limited run of ARC AA’s. Rare and those who still have ‘em will probably never let them go.

derfyled wrote:
…a refreshed version of the EZ AA from Nitecore,
I still have and pocket rotate my EZ-AA, great light. Here’s a size comparison FWIW.

Personally, I think there are a number of good compact AA lights. I think the Skilhunt E2A is one of them – good build and finish, simple 3-mode with mechanical tailcap, great CRI, and capable of draining AA batteries low.

How’s about just an AA version of the Sofirn C01 – compact well built. high-CRI 5mm, encapsulated and highly affordable. I can’t understand why Sofirm hasn’t already put one out, given how well received the C01’s were.

On the light side.

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derfyled wrote:
You got my interest with the 3$ Microstore. Never seen these, where can I find them ? A quick search didn’t do it…

It’s something like a “R03”. Hang on…

Oh, that was easy..

https://www.microcenter.com/product/486512/inland-r22-1w-led-flashlight

They usually have ‘em in boxes right at the checkout counters, like you’d sell keychains and the like.

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derfyled
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pc_light wrote:
derfyled wrote:
…a project for the ARC aaa flashlight 20 years ago (don’t remember if it has ever seen the day)…
There was a limited run of ARC AA’s. Rare and those who still have ‘em will probably never let them go.

derfyled wrote:
…a refreshed version of the EZ AA from Nitecore,
I still have and pocket rotate my EZ-AA, great light. Here’s a size comparison FWIW.

Personally, I think there are a number of good compact AA lights. I think the Skilhunt E2A is one of them – good build and finish, simple 3-mode with mechanical tailcap, great CRI, and capable of draining AA batteries low.

How’s about just an AA version of the Sofirn C01 – compact well built. high-CRI 5mm, encapsulated and highly affordable. I can’t understand why Sofirm hasn’t already put one out, given how well received the C01’s were.

Yes! You are right about the ARC AA, I now remember.

About the EZ AA: I’m glad to see some people remember them. You know what ? I also still use mine, it’s the rarer W version with a warm P4 in it. I also still have and use an EZ CR2.

I also think there is a market for C01 and C01S in AA version…

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Lightbringer wrote:
derfyled wrote:
You got my interest with the 3$ Microstore. Never seen these, where can I find them ? A quick search didn’t do it…

It’s something like a “R03”. Hang on…

Oh, that was easy..

https://www.microcenter.com/product/486512/inland-r22-1w-led-flashlight

They usually have ‘em in boxes right at the checkout counters, like you’d sell keychains and the like.

With a side switch for 3$ ! Does not fit my needs but I would definitely buy some for modding fun! Thanks for the suggestion.
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Yeh, and I wouldn’t try ‘em with Li-ion 14500s, but they work fine with LFPs.

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Unheard
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Is any of the current twisties reliably debounced?

Spitzbube.

derfyled
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Unheard wrote:
Is any of the current twisties reliably debounced?

Not as far as I know. Some very old model might had some problem but I’m not aware of problems on currently available twisties.

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derfyled wrote:
About the EZ AA: I’m glad to see some people remember them. You know what ? I also still use mine, it’s the rarer W version with a warm P4 in it….
That one was EZ-AAw but now reflowed with LH351 4K Hi-CRI for the 2x lumens bump.

On the light side.

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derfyled wrote:
Not as far as I know. Some very old model might had some problem but I’m not aware of problems on currently available twisties.

The most recent models I have are Jetbeam MK-II (had 2 of them) and Sofirn C01S (around 10 of them). Both models can’t be reliably switched to moon mode. Every now and then they jump to a higher level.

Spitzbube.

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pc_light wrote:
derfyled wrote:
About the EZ AA: I’m glad to see some people remember them. You know what ? I also still use mine, it’s the rarer W version with a warm P4 in it….
That one was EZ-AAw but now reflowed with LH351 4K Hi-CRI for the 2x lumens bump.

Oh ! NICE!!! Is the reflector ok with its big P4 opening ? The LH351 is quite smaller.

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Unheard wrote:
derfyled wrote:
Not as far as I know. Some very old model might had some problem but I’m not aware of problems on currently available twisties.
The most recent models I have are Jetbeam MK-II (had 2 of them) and Sofirn C01S (around 10 of them). Both models can’t be reliably switched to moon mode. Every now and then they jump to a higher level.

Oh yes, thread play. I’ve had a couple of lights like that. If it drives you nut, you can correct the situation with a bit of teflon tape on the threads. Just leave a bit of bare threads to make contact. Moon mode on a C01S ? Do you mean the first low level ? I’ve never seen or heard about a moon mode equipped C01S…

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thread play is increased as the O ring wears, I agree teflon tape works, if a new O ring is not available

another thing that makes twisties skip modes unreliably, is excess lubricant that bridges the body tube to the driver.. wiping out the excess lube will make a twisty that skips modes, more reliable.

for me, one of the problems w twisties, is that they turn on in pocket, due to lateral pressure, unless I unscrew extra.. (this is also caused by thread play)

I no longer carry twisties, for all those reasons.. Imo a mechanical tailswitch is the most reliable, and most muggle friendly option. It takes more explaining to teach twisty use, than clicky use.

pc_light wrote:
I think the Skilhunt E2A is one of them – good build and finish, simple 3-mode with mechanical tailcap, great CRI, and capable of draining AA batteries low.
agree
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derfyled wrote:
Oh yes, thread play.

Might be thread play in the first place, but I think the mechanics can’t warrant a steady contact. It _will _happen. Even click frog systems are usually debounced in software. Some HP calcs allow adjusting a timeout IIRC.

Don’t know if it is too hard to implement something like this. Some lights have a running timer despite being unpowered by the battery.

Edit: Yes, sure, the C01S has a low mode only. Bit different with the C01R.

Spitzbube.

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derfyled wrote:
Quadrupel wrote:
BTW whats wrong with Sofirn SP10 Pro?
-Not as cheap as I would like.

 

It is around 20 bucks, 

there is just no way you can produce anything cheaper and not lose money on it.  especially with specks you want. it is just not realistic in todays economy.  

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Yeah. What are people expecting? 20$US is perfectly fine, especially if shipping is free.

I’d rather pay 20$US for a Sofirn SP10 HE and have the components always stay the same and have the production relatively sustainable so small upgrades can be performed over time.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

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derfyled wrote:
Oh ! NICE!!! Is the reflector ok with its big P4 opening ? The LH351 is quite smaller.
The combination seems to play well together. IIRC using a 1.6mm MCPCB seems to have provided enough lift for a good focus. Actually the hotspot might be larger than original now, go figure.

E2A (SST-20 4K) – EZAAw (LH351D 4K) – C01 (Yuji 5K)

On the light side.

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I’d say Fireflies Enogear SS AA light

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Yokiamy wrote:
I’d say Fireflies Enogear SS AA light

Terrible PWM.

Spitzbube.

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Yokiamy wrote:
I’d say Fireflies Enogear SS AA light

Nice, very nice ! Thanks for sharing. Hard to tell from the picture but is it a twisty or it has a tail switch ?

EDIT : Apparently bad PWM. Deal breaker. Still on the hunt…

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So why did you not like the lumintop tool 2.0 ?

Was that it is a tail clicker, or to many modes?

I have 3 of them so they are one of my favorites. I am not a fan of twisty UI’s, I quit carrying lights with twist UIs back when I had a Fenix E11. I like lights that I can use with one hand.

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strayz wrote:
So why did you not like the lumintop tool 2.0 ?

Was that it is a tail clicker, or to many modes?

I have 3 of them so they are one of my favorites. I am not a fan of twisty UI’s, I quit carrying lights with twist UIs back when I had a Fenix E11. I like lights that I can use with one hand.

Nothing wrong about the Tool AA, it was just a question of price but seeing it for $12 on Ali, this one is a winner. If I want to be a nit-picky, I would indeed say it has too many modes for a simple emergency light ( k.i.s.s. = keep it straight simple).

To summarize it, my idea was really an C01S in AA format. All the good things from this light but with up to 3 times the runtime sounded fantastic in my mind. Also, if Sofirn can sell the C01S for $6,99 (as it is right now on their web site), I don’t see why the same light just a bit bigger could not be sold for $10-12 ?

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derfyled wrote:
strayz wrote:
So why did you not like the lumintop tool 2.0 ?

Was that it is a tail clicker, or to many modes?

I have 3 of them so they are one of my favorites. I am not a fan of twisty UI’s, I quit carrying lights with twist UIs back when I had a Fenix E11. I like lights that I can use with one hand.

Nothing wrong about the Tool AA, it was just a question of price but seeing it for $12 on Ali, this one is a winner. If I want to be a nit-picky, I would indeed say it has too many modes for a simple emergency light ( k.i.s.s. = keep it straight simple).

To summarize it, my idea was really an C01S in AA format. All the good things from this light but with up to 3 times the runtime sounded fantastic in my mind. Also, if Sofirn can sell the C01S for $6,99 (as it is right now on their web site), I don’t see why the same light just a bit bigger could not be sold for $10-12 ?

Lumintop Tool AA also has an optional magnetic tail cap that can be used in place of the switch tail cap which would make it a twisty light, if that’s what you would prefer.

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I have a Klarus P1A kicking around, tailswitch but 100 lumen high and twist for 10 lumen low.
1 hour on high and 12 hours on low on a 2000mAh NiMH.

Also a Romisen RC G2, 100 lumen one mode. tailswitch.

You might be able to find these kicking around somewhere.

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