Hi, the rotary dial on my V11R doesn’t work as well as it did. It feels sloppy/loose as you rotate it and it isn’t as smooth in the brightness control.
I’m sure I’ve read about issues like this in the past and how people strip it down and fix it (pack with grease maybe??). But I can’t seem to find any threads on it when I search.
Anyone able to point me in the right direction.
Thanks.
These are not really “How to…” threads but might be of some help.
If it’s not highlighted already - make sure to desolder the led before unscrewing the head :exclamation:
^ this
Some force needed to break glue. Heating helps.
Watch both magnets and bearing ball/spring.
All my rotaries got some silicon grease (higher viscosity than you’d use for threads, but that’s a matter of taste).
Good luck!
Edit: IIRC, the SWM rotaries don’t require to desolder the MCPCB. Actually you can’t access it before unsrewing the head, unlike Jetbeams. Hope I’m not mistaken here.
Nope, your not mistaken. The sunwayman’s you dont have to remove the mcpcb, the jetbeam TCR-1 or RRT-01 you do. With the TCR-1 or RRT-01, if you dont lock the head down with thread locker and you accidentally unscrew the top part of the head when changing batteries, the wires to the mcpcb twist up and break. Then its tare it all back down and solder on new wires to the driver (which isn’t easy) and then back to the mcpcb. I usually dont lock mine because I know what happens, but when someone that doesn’t know gets a hold of it, you”ll be tearing it down again.
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OP, you may also be able to work grease in the ring without tearing it down. Some have had sucess with this method. Jon_slider had sucess pushing grease under the controll ring without removing a thing. If its full of debris this may not help much. The grease you use also plays a very important role in how the ring feels.
How to disassemble a Sunwayman to repack the control ring:
another example:
fwiw, it is not necessary to remove the bezel, nor the reflector. It is also not necessary to remove the mcpcb to get to the rotary ring. Just go straight to separating the control ring assembly. There is no spring and no ball bearing. This is all different than on the original RRT-01.
good to see you here
true, I was able to add grease without disassembly… took a lot of fiddling, and trying different lubes…
fwiw, someone I know used some plastic and rubber bands wrapped around the control ring, with grease under the plastic, so they could smoosh it into the control ring gaps.
Even just adding Nyogel 767a to the top gap between control ring and head, can solve the too loose issue.
The KEY is to use Nyogel 767a.
(can you hear me now? lol)
IF OP wants to open the light, I recommend heating it in boiled water, (in a plastic bag), or at 100C on a hotplate, or even in Hot sun for an hour… There is loctite sealing the control ring. A SMALL drop of Blue loctite is important to reapply when reassembling the control ring halves.
Many thanks. Will get some grease of some sort ordered up and see about taking it apart.
Please not of some sort. The Nyogel 767a really makes it a better light.
Agreed. I have tried a number of types of supposedly thick grease. Only Nyogel 767a gave the result I wanted.
My selector ring got stuck a while back. Like the grease just solidified. I took it apart and regreased it, it’s a little less stiff than originally, but good enough. Just used what I had for lubing threads.
I think I might have swapped the emitter too. It’s been a while.
