Are you sensitive to poor UI's? Would you buy a light with a bad one?

It can’t just be me.

But what I require most from any UI on a multi mode light is consistency. I want to know what it is going to do when I turn it on. Rather than play a gamble on which mode I’ll get.

Sadly, it seems that even after a decade or two of multimode torches, something as simple as this is overlooked by so many manufacturers. :o

I’ve been stung a couple of times.

JetBeam Jet II Pro. An otherwise awesome light in build, size & performance. Let down by a truly dreadful UI. :frowning:

The Manker U11 was another great disappointment and utter waste of money, sitting on the shelf being unused due to another appalling UI.

Even some lights I’ve modded and built suffer poor UI’s. I was once a fan of the Qlite driver (as sold by Hank at Int’l Outdoor). Because back in the day it had high output (3amps) in a 17mm driver with constant current and the ability to completely hide the blinky modes.

But the Qlite has “memory”, so when you have it configured for say 4 outputs. It is a complete gamble what you’ll get when you turn it on. It could be 0.5 lumens or a 1000 lumens. You never really will know.

So sadly I’ve largely stopped using these lights. I could replace the drivers. But it is quite an expense to go through all of them, which also makes you think should you replace the LEDs too. And after you’ve done this, you are often at the price point of getting a new Convoy light anyway.

Recently I’d been looking at buying a really cool mini side switch 16340 light. Something tiny and interesting that just makes you think “wow” when you see it. Eventually narrowed it down to a Klarus and On the Road M34. The Klarus I can’t find available to ship to the UK and the M4 turns out to have an unfit UI.

Obviously UI’s are the only buying factor. Tint is also vastly important, plus performance and other design characteristics such as not turning on in your pocket. But a poor UI means I’ll just end up being annoyed with it and not using it. It isn’t something I can work around or forgive in a light. So it becomes wasted money, effort and expectations.

On a larger light (what I’d call coat pocket or bigger lights, sort of C8 sized and up). I have less objections with the UI. Lights such as these are typically going to be used outdoors in larger areas, where the majority of the time you’ll probably want a higher output rather than a lower one. So it doesn’t matter too much if it is bright when you turn it on. Although having predictability and consistence is still a pretty basic want.

But for anything pocket EDC sized, such as a p60 or smaller it really must have the ability to be turned on with 100% certainty in which mode it’ll be. And that certainty needs to be to allow you to turn it on in a low mode. Because indoors, close up and often in total darkness if you awake during the night. You want to have a low output as the first thing you are greeted with. Being blasted with 500-1500 lumens is not a reality you want!

Anyone else feel this way about UI’s and have such bitter disappointment that so many otherwise interesting lights fall so far short of being fit for purpose.

> But the Qlite has “memory”, so when you have it configured for say 4 outputs. It is a complete gamble what you’ll get when you turn it on. It could be 0.5 lumens or a 1000 lumens. You never really will know.

I avoid lights with Last Mode Memory. I prefer Knowing that the light will always start at the same output.

For example, on my Anduril lights I set Manual Memory, so using 1C from off and unlocked, it always turns on at the level I chose.

And if I want the lowest mode, I do 1H from off. Totally predictable UI, the way I have it configured.

“poor UI” is subjective.

In the context of internet flashlight forums, the majority of lights are more toys than tools, and UIs that are not suitable for real use are perfectly suitable for play.

Indeed.

While I have some issues with Andruil (mostly around dimming at higher outputs and the new Anduril 2 lights I have not having 2 brightness modes by default when locked). It is very good for EDC use, because it is predictable.

I don’t use the manual memory, as I like the auto one in this case. But that is because I can turn the light on in moonlight or in High and I know what I’m getting each time.

My Wurkkos TS10 turned up yesterday. So far it is awesome, I wasn’t looking for a 14500 light, but I’m glad I got and can see it becoming a favourite in short order.

Couldn’t disagree more. Poor design is poor design, regardless of how it is used. Just because some people might not care, it won’t alter the fact that the design is not fit for purpose and is of generally poor design.

An inflatable pool toy springing a leak is of different consequence than an ocean-worthy rigid inflatable boat springing a leak.
You wouldn’t bring former into open ocean or the latter into a pool.
If you look at the BLF main feed, there is probably a 3:1 ratio of pool toy posts to RIB posts.

Complaining about this seems inconsequential. Buy the one you need.

glad you are enjoying it, I like mine too…

I do change numerous Options to suit my personal preferences:


Aux on Low when off
turn on in Advanced smooth ramping
ramping speed option 3 (slower)
10 lumen manual memory
10 minute temporary memory (this is set by default)
simple smooth and stepped floors at 1/150 = 0.01 lumens
simple smooth and stepped ceilings at 110/150=250 lumens
advanced smooth and stepped floors at 1/150 = 0.01 lumens
advanced smooth and stepped ceilings at 120/150 = 350 lumens
2C gives ceiling, no Turbo
thermal limit set to 50C (sustains about 330 lumens)
——-

because I have the reflashing kit from gchart, and have multiple TS10, I have saved all those options to a hex file, so I can reflash a light without need to manually set each option again.

you may also like to consider a pocket clip upgrade, here are a couple of options I enjoy:
.

No, as I’ve yet to master re-flashing drivers, a nice UI is make/break for me.

I’ve only been stung once by an ‘un-usable’ UI, not a ‘known brand’ light. Keep meaning to find a new driver for it because as a host its good.

A feature-packed UI isn’t always necessary for me; one of my favourite lights to use around the house right now is the Jaxman M2. 2*AA and two modes, always starts on low (c.50lm). That said, my ZL H600 MKii still gets lots of use as moonlight and high both immediately available from off (and single click off is my preference).

I try to avoid any flashlight with a UI that I deem "bad."

Anything “hold for off”, and dual switches. The Convoy ramping driver is horrible IMO. All no-go’s for me in the future.

“sensitive”….well, i guess.
it is more like annoyed.
and, yes, i have bought bad ones,
but that is how i learned what the
good ones were. silver lining.

As said many times on BLF already, there is no such thing as the perfect flashlight.
There are always compromises.

My current EDC is my Ti Pineapple with 519A, and its nearly perfect, but compared with other lights there are always tradeoffs, for instance compared with a Tool AA, its a bit bulky.

I think Anduril 2 is a Very Nice, full featured and extremely versatile Programmable UI.

It is not necessary to reflash the driver to change the Options. Things like the floors, ceilings, memory on or off, strobe type, ramping speed, aux button LED brightness, etc, can all be adjusted without reflashing.

just takes some quality time with the manual

I’ve not used the ramping driver. What’s wrong with it?

The instructions sound like it should be fine, but keen to know if not.

Thanks. Are those clips easy to buy on their own?

yes, if I google the product names in the photo above,
they are available for me to purchase individually here in USA,
from lumintoplighting and olight

your google may differ :wink:

Very interesting! I happen to have a positive opinion of the ramping driver myself, especially for throwers (have it in C8 SFT40). I thought the firmware looked terrible, but it grows on me the more I use it.

I set the first mode to be 10th step (around 20%), 2nd to 100%, and 3rd to 1%. Generally the 10% mode suffices for medium distance, and whenever I need more I just double-tap (or click-tap from off) for direct access to 100%. Occasionally when I really do want dim, I triple-tap.

I like it because a single click always gives the most balanced mode that works for 90% of situations. And double-tap for turbo seems very natural to me in a mechanical switch light.

My only issue with the driver is lack of moonlight, which doesn't matter for my thrower. For my EDC I run the 5A 4-mode driver with memory.

The UI definitely matters and will prevent me from buying a light if it’s bad enough. There’s a basic why I expect the light to work and if it doesn’t fit with what’s pretty much common functionality than… Nope.

A bad UI definitely makes a light unusable. A notable failure was later batches of Astrolux A01, the keychain light marketed as having a warm 219B and moon-low-high memoryless group, current-regulated in all modes. Well, the light arrived with the greenest 219C I've ever seen, and the UI had next-mode memory! Not to mention PWM at about 300hz (extremely low frequency, visible with the slightest movement) on medium mode.

I tried sticking with the light for a week but couldn't use it due to the UI--I never know which mode the light comes on. It doesn't take an idiot to design next-mode memory--it takes a evil genius! I was only able to use the light a year later when I found out that using pencil lead on a capacitor disables the memory. This incident also made me wary of Astrolux as a company.

A bad UI definitely makes a light unusable. A notable failure was later batches of Astrolux A01, the keychain light marketed as having a warm 219B and moon-low-high memoryless group, current-regulated in all modes. Well, the light arrived with the greenest 219C I've ever seen, and the UI had next-mode memory! Not to mention PWM at about 300hz (extremely low frequency and easily visible with any movement) on medium mode.

I tried sticking with the light for a week but couldn't use it due to the UI--I never know which mode the light comes on. Next-mode memory is not the work of an idiot, but of a evil genius! I was only able to use the light a year later when I found out that using pencil lead on a capacitor disables the memory. This incident also made me wary of Astrolux as a company. Bought it from Banggood, got banged good.