Klarus XT2CR - How to disassemble head?

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kanton
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Klarus XT2CR - How to disassemble head?

Hey! Smile

I have a Klarus XT2CR where the USB-C charging port broke off and into the head. Now, for most of my lights I would just disassemble the head, but I can’t find a way to unscrew the head. There is also apparently no way in from the front. I see a a small golden ring on the inside but I wasn’t able to move it so far and I also don’t see how this could hold in the head assembly in place.

Anybody ever opened their XT2CRs or knows how to do it?

Cheers!

MascaratumB
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The bezel is the way from the front. I don’t know if it is glued or not, though.
Also, I can’t say if the flashlight is unibody or if it has a tube, that may also be glued.

With glue, the best way to open it is heat and some tools that allow to apply divergent force to rotate the body and head in opposite directions.

kanton
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MascaratumB wrote:
The bezel is the way from the front. I don’t know if it is glued or not, though.
Also, I can’t say if the flashlight is unibody or if it has a tube, that may also be glued.

With glue, the best way to open it is heat and some tools that allow to apply divergent force to rotate the body and head in opposite directions.

I finally got it open. With A LOT of damage. The bezel as well as the battery pipe are both threaded with a rubber seal but glued to the head. Why the hell would anyone do that, I don’t get it…

uselessuser
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As MascaratumB said, you should have used heat. Klarus is using blue Loctite, just heat it to about 200°C and you’re good.

They do that to make it very easy to tell if someone tinkered with the light before sending it in for repairs. Since you only need a bit of heat to open it it’s still very repair friendly, unlike Nitecore with their red Loctite.

kanton
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uselessuser wrote:
As MascaratumB said, you should have used heat. Klarus is using blue Loctite, just heat it to about 200°C and you’re good.

I forgot to mention that: I did and it still didn’t budge. I used a heatgun. Maybe I didn’t heat it hot enough though, as I was more expecting glue akin to what they use in phone, so maybe 100 C max. I didn’t want to go to high to not melt the plastic parts of the head (the Klarus LED cover) and whatever was inside (which I did not know).

The repair itself was actually okay – The USB port had broken off and I could reflow it with the heatgun after desoldering the stacked PCBs.

uselessuser
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In my experience the rubber parts survive 300°C and more without issue if you don’t mess with them and just let them cool down afterwards.

Plastic won’t, but except for the LED gasket there usually isn’t anything plastic in a flashlight.

Glad to hear the repair went well! Getting the darn thing open is often the most difficult part, especially if you don’t know what is glued and so on.