I finally took the time to mod the TK35-clone - I changed the battery setup to parallel and used an NANJG 105C with one additional AMC7135 for 3.15A. I also put an XM-L T6 3C into it.
Performance: Nice! The total output went up from 640 to 930 arbitrary units, the throw from 230m to 280m (13kcd to 19kcd).
That's only 5% less than the real TK35, but with a nicer tint :)
UI/modes: The mode button is connected to a star and thus to the µC, but I have yet to write a suitable firmware for it. I'm currently thinking about what UI to implement. Maybe fixed modes like the original, maybe ramping, maybe both... I'll see.
EDIT: Did it, programmed a nice UI for it (lumo35drv), see post #10. EDIT: Hardware modding instructions are in post #14.
or you could just break most of your stuff, and once in awhile get something right, like me. I like to make the same mistake 2 or 3 times so that I REALLLY lurn good
Dr. Jones - thanks for posting - at < half price, this form factor becomes very attractive!
I'm confused though (as usual). With your mod, you're saying the mode button and the power buttons work as designed, but you just haven't finalized a decision on modes? ie, you're getting whatever modes are assigned to the star you used?
H-m-l suits my taste, most of the time, although sometimes I'd love 5 mode w/ super high and super low, so eventually I'll read all the instructions on programming and get the clip.
Is it too late to take a picture of the other side of the nanjg...just so I don't misunderstand and make a mistake, should I end up getting one of these?
You sure do answer a lot of questions for me - THANKS
The mode button is connected, so it's electrically prepared to be used, but the current program just ignores it, as it's just a standard program for single on/off-button lights.
I think I decided on a UI: two main modes at 20%/100%, switched by short clicks on the mode button; ramping up&down (alternating) with longer presses; strobe and beacon hidden behind a few short clicks.
dthrckt: Sorry, forgot your last question. On the other side I soldered the "V+" from the power switch to the center of the driver (where I had removed the spring), and the wire from the mode button leads to the 4th star (directly below the little brown capacitor).
Note however that I had to make changes to the small board on the other side as well (where the switches are) and that there are now 4 wires between front and back of the battery holder, and I had to make some holes bigger to let the wires through -- all because I had to change the serial setup to a parallel one. It's not just a simple driver swap.
If you want to do the same, I can post a more detailed description. I also could send you a programmed driver if you want (as soon as I finish the program).
thanks - I might just do that - when my flashlight budget resets eom :)
Either this light or the mg x-thrower - and the runtime/flexibility of this is pretty attractive. The only thing is, I wish that it had some knurling, or something...but that's aesthetics, since I doubt grip is an issue (although, obviously, I'm guessing...).
EDIT: Actually, when you spin yours up, you might as well do a second. I'll paypal you for the driver and install it when I get around to buying the light. Thanks!
I just finished my TheKlone35-Firmware, and I am very pleased with it. Best ramping system I've seen so far - thanks to the mode button.
I call it lumo35drv.
There are two 'standard' levels, 25% and 100% (more can be added), and a short tap on the mode button switches between them.
When you press the button a bit longer (>0.5s), it begins to ramp up (visually linear), starting from the brightness level you just were in. If you release and press again (>0.5s) it ramps down instead. I never found it easier to fine-adjust the brightness to my wishes; if you want it just a tad brighter or less bright, you don't have to start over.
The end of the ramp is indicated by a short blink. If you press the button even longer (>1s while already at the end), you get the extended modes, where strobe and beacon is (more brightness modes can be added). A short tap switches between the extended modes, a longer tap gets you back to standard mode.
The main (power) button is a forward clicky, so you have a momentary operation ("tactical"), too.
If you want to do the same, here are the instructions (I hope I didn't forget anything):
Desolder the two metal bars from the driver (which connect back and front) and take all three boards out.
Desolder all components from the two round driver boards (SMD).
Cut the marked connection on the small switches board on the shown side and on the rear side.
Bore up the holes on the side with the 3 wires (on the switch board, too); see images.
Note that the "V-" wire will be connected to 4 spots: two on the small switches board (see image); to the hole through which it gets into the driver compartment (not shown) and to the outer ring of the new driver, directly above that.
Solder wires (V-, V+, B+, M) to the switches board as shown. Remember which is which. Insert both boards.
Solder V- to it's hole on the lower round board; let 5mm protrude.
Solder the B+ wire to "VCC" on the original board, as shown.
Desolder the spring from the NANJG, solder the V+ wire to that spot.
Solder M (from the mode button) to the NANJG's 4th star, which is connected to ATtiny's B3 pin as active low. By 4th star I mean the one near the brown capacitor (labelled C1).
I've got one of these lights with a driver that never did work, so it would be good to give a try, I am not sure I will be able to do it, but I haven't got much to loose.
A driver with ramping would be great, but I am afraid I do not know how to program it nor have the tools, so It will be a KD 8*7135 V2 I've got around here with high and med modes.
