Ultrafire HD2010 (easylightbuy) 1x18650 / 26650

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kramer5150
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Ultrafire HD2010 (easylightbuy) 1x18650 / 26650

Really pleased with this purchase.  Shipping was pretty fast via China post and USPS.  Order placed on 3/12, light received 3/23.  From China to California in 11 days total, very impressive.

$34.37 Shipped, lot of light for not a whole lot of $$

http://www.easylightbuy.com/ultrafire-hd2010-cree-xmlt6-5mode-led-flashl...

This is more of a discussion than a review, so any questions ask away!!Smile

Very good knurl, gray with a very slight tint of olive.

I had to fiddle with the reflector to get it centered.  It has about 1-1.5mm of "float", and there is nothing structural in the light that self-centers the reflector around the LED.  Once I got it lined up, tightened it down and I snapped the pic... it took 2-3 minutes of fiddling and was not very difficult.  Top-rate optics and reflector quality, an AR coated lens would have been nice though.

Nice hand carry size

Body fit with unprotected 26650 cell.  There is some cell rattle

Adapted down to 18650 with the included adapter tube.  Panasonic CGR18650E shown

Tailcap

GITD boot

 

Body tube and adapter

Nice laser etching too

Engine compartment

Driver retainer

UNder the hood... 17mm driver.  HI-MED-LO-DISCO-SOS.  No memory, starts on HI every time.  No visible PWM

Machining quality is a little sloppy, thats my only complaint.  But for $35 I don't think its excessive or out of line for a light with this feature-set.

Tailstands nicely too.

 

Edited by: kramer5150 on 04/08/2012 - 16:21
garrybunk
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Hmmm . . . Still drooling over this light.  The FandyFire version has been on my wishlist, but perhaps the Ultrafire version is a better shot (probably the same light though).  At least the name would sound better when you show it off!  Nice photos! 

Obvious question - how's the beam?  How's it compare to other XM-L's like a C8 at 3A?  Tailcap currents Hi, Med, Low?

-Garry

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kramer5150
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garrybunk wrote:

Hmmm . . . Still drooling over this light.  The FandyFire version has been on my wishlist, but perhaps the Ultrafire version is a better shot (probably the same light though).  At least the name would sound better when you show it off!  Nice photos! 

Obvious question - how's the beam?  How's it compare to other XM-L's like a C8 at 3A?  Tailcap currents Hi, Med, Low?

-Garry

 

Sure Garry.  I am new to XML lights and dont have any others to compare it with.  Compared to my 200Lumen XRE P60 dropins (DIY builds at 1.4A) its a tighter beam than those.  Neat thing bout it is the Lux values are greatest right in the center of the beam, theres a small-center hot spot (if you will) right in the center of the hot spot.  Hope that makes sense.  Not sure if this is a characteristic of all XMLs in throw reflectors, as I have nothing to compare.

I'll play around with it some more tonight on my night-jog.

For some reason I can't take tailcap current measurements (at least not very reliable ones).  I set up my meter to 20A like I always do, and when I touch the probe to the body off and on, it does not cycle through the lower modes...???  it just goes HI-HI-HI-HI... strange.  FWIW it draws 4A with a panasonic CGR18650E, and 3.2A with my orange Battery Station 26650 cells.  I dont think my measurements are very reliable though.

 

Hope this helps

mizjif
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Thankyou for this review! Perfect because I just ordered this same light this afternoon from them! What a coincidence. It is nice to see good things! I planned to drop a 4.2a driver and a U2 into it but maybe it won't need it?

 

Thanks again for the review!

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I'm thinking this is direct-drive on high.  Think someone brought this out in another thread (on the FandyFire?).

Think I would have preferred it start on medium every time instead of high.  How's the spill?  Plenty of flood, or tightened up (which is what I expect to hear).

-Garry

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kramer5150
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garrybunk wrote:

I'm thinking this is direct-drive on high.  Think someone brought this out in another thread (on the FandyFire?).

Think I would have preferred it start on medium every time instead of high.  How's the spill?  Plenty of flood, or tightened up (which is what I expect to hear).

-Garry

Holy moly this thing is BRIGHT (relative to my collection).  I really don't have anything this bright that throws this far... in this small form-factor.  Its still basically a hand held light, that you can cary in a coat pocket.  It that blows away my ~3A MCE and P7 lights in both Lux and lumen output. 

Side spill is better than I thought it would be from a reflector this deep.  It reaches a little farther to the sides than my XRE-P60 modules.

I think this will make a nice addition for anyone wanting a 1x26650 light.

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kramer - very nice mini-review and nice light, thanks for posting! I am curious though, how did you know it was a 26650 light? I don't see any mention in the link you provided or in any other site that carries this light - they all say 1 x 18650.  And does it have current regulation by any chance?

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BetweenRides wrote:

kramer - very nice mini-review and nice light, thanks for posting! I am curious though, how did you know it was a 26650 light? I don't see any mention in the link you provided or in any other site that carries this light - they all say 1 x 18650.  And does it have current regulation by any chance?

 

From most photos online, they all appear to come with a 26650 to 18650 sleeve, so it's great you can use this we either battery type.  The one thing that is strange is that some websites show it's only about 390 OTF lumens.  The only reason I haven't ordered one yet is because they don't come in a box.  I've had my share of flashlights arriving in pretty bad condition just tossed in an envelope.

 

Kramer, thanks for posting this.  It's really a beautiful torch.

 

Richie

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Yeah I just looked at the pictures and figured it would  be 26650 sized with the 18650 adapter.

I am not sure about the regulation.  I have no way of really measuring it.  Can anyone comment on the driver board circuit?  I am guessing its a voltage buck circuit.  Uses some sort of current regulating driver, and a programmable EPROM chip to set the modes.

This one came in a box with foam sheet padding and bubble wrap.  Not a "gift box" mind you with custom cut foam and fancy logos, but a generic box suitable for shipment.

Richie086
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kramer5150 wrote:
This one came in a box with foam sheet padding and bubble wrap.  Not a "gift box" mind you with custom cut foam and fancy logos, but a generic box suitable for shipment.

 

Thanks for the heads up Kramer.  That's secure enough shipping for me. Easylightbuy is the same place I wanted to order from too.

Richie

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I should also note that the driver pill had some metal shavings that had to be removed.  I removed them prior to taking the pictures.

None of the body tube and tailcap O-rings seal well, so this ones not going to like water very much.  Bezel and front lens O-rings however are very snug.  I accidentally tore the one around the bezel when I unscrewed it... DOH!!  So I have some DIY mods ahead of me to get this one sealed up against water.

The reflector does not have an insulator disc.  I had to cut my own using 3 layers of Scotch packing tape a hole punch and some scissors.  I am not sure about this light but usually bad/strange things happen when the LED +/- shorts to (or across) the reflector.

kramer5150
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Sure any time Richie.

kramer5150
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Spent $3-4 at my local OSH and up'd the ante on the O-ring gaskets.  All the junctions are now nice and snug fitting....

New O-ring and close-up look at tailcap threads

Dunk-proof (after 10 minutes)

garrybunk
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Have you ever checked tailcap current on medium?

-Garry

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Very nice! Thanks for the pics, keep them coming! Smile

This is my flashlight collection.

kramer5150
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garrybunk wrote:
Have you ever checked tailcap current on medium?

-Garry

 

Hi Garry unfortunately I am still unable to get any other readings.  For some reason I only get HI - SOS - HI - SOS.  Current draw on HI is ~4A (but I don't trust this number... let others reply back hopefully).

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The more photos and info you post the more excited I am to receive mine! I hope my HIMAX 18650 cells will allow for 4A+ draw! I want this thing to be a beast Smile

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I've got the black UltraFire HD2010 from KD for $40.  The driver is unregulated, with a no-memory PWM mode chip controlling a FET.  For the battery, I'm using a Moli IMR-26650C.  Using copper wire and a clamp meter at the tail, I measure high steadily climb from 4.0A to 5.0A as the LED heats up (then I stop before it goes any higher).  The tailswitch would add more resistance than the wire I'm testing with, so realistically, I'd say the light runs ~3.5-4.0A on high.  Medium pulls 1.7A and low pulls 200mA.  This cell measured 4.0v open before and after testing.

About the focus, there is a focusing ring around the emitter.  In order for it to work, you've got to unscrew the pill almost a full turn from bottoming out, to raise the centering ring up high enough to enter the hole of the reflector.  At that point, there's only enough wiggle room to affect the corona around the hotspot, but not the hotspot itself.  I locked mine into perfect center by using a little kapton tape at the edge of the reflector to hold it in place while I tightened the bezel and tucked the (slightly too small) lens o-ring into place with a pic.  The beam profile is remarkably similar to an XML in a Mag LED (Rebel) reflector.

With the exception of the focus fine-tuning, this is one light that's about as good as it can be on receipt.  I had plans to swap the emitter with a 5000K XML, the tailswitch to a lower resistance forward clickie and the driver to a 3.0A KD V4 with a 1A slave set for LMH, but now that I have the light in hand, I think I'll leave it just the way it is, disco modes and all.  It's rare that I get a light from China and don't immediately rebuild/upgrade it.  This one's a gem.

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Techjunkie wrote:

I've got the black UltraFire HD2010 from KD for $40.  The driver is unregulated, with a no-memory PWM mode chip controlling a FET.  For the battery, I'm using a Moli IMR-26650C.  Using copper wire and a clamp meter at the tail, I measure high steadily climb from 4.0A to 5.0A as the LED heats up (then I stop before it goes any higher).  The tailswitch would add more resistance than the wire I'm testing with, so realistically, I'd say the light runs ~3.5-4.0A on high.  Medium pulls 1.7A and low pulls 200mA.  This cell measured 4.0v open before and after testing.

About the focus, there is a focusing ring around the emitter.  In order for it to work, you've got to unscrew the pill almost a full turn from bottoming out, to raise the centering ring up high enough to enter the hole of the reflector.  At that point, there's only enough wiggle room to affect the corona around the hotspot, but not the hotspot itself.  I locked mine into perfect center by using a little kapton tape at the edge of the reflector to hold it in place while I tightened the bezel and tucked the (slightly too small) lens o-ring into place with a pic.  The beam profile is remarkably similar to an XML in a Mag LED (Rebel) reflector.

With the exception of the focus fine-tuning, this is one light that's about as good as it can be on receipt.  I had plans to swap the emitter with a 5000K XML, the tailswitch to a lower resistance forward clickie and the driver to a 3.0A KD V4 with a 1A slave set for LMH, but now that I have the light in hand, I think I'll leave it just the way it is, disco modes and all.  It's rare that I get a light from China and don't immediately rebuild/upgrade it.  This one's a gem.

 

THANKS for the current measurements. Nice to know at least my HI measurement was not way off base.

I agree, this ones useable out of the box.  I didn't really have to upgrade the O-rings.  Actually the flashy modes aren't "too" bad.  I forgot to mention this, but I can skip over the disco boogie and go from LO back to HI by soft pressing and holding it for 2-3 seconds.  The EPROM interprets this as a power down cycle and reverts back to HI.  Of all the "non-hidden" disco strobes I have owned, this ones been the easiest to get around.

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Folks can you clarify something for me.  Am I correct that the version of this light from BeamTech BT-4000 CREE XM-T6 18W 2700LM 5 Mode Flashlight, is the one that has bad thermal transfer, but it's this Ultrafire HD2010 that would be the one to purchase??

If so, what makes the Ultrafire better?  I'm getting a few dollars together and will be purchasing this light and wanted to make sure I get the correct one.  Thanks. 

Richie

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Richie086 wrote:

Folks can you clarify something for me.  Am I correct that the version of this light from BeamTech BT-4000 CREE XM-T6 18W 2700LM 5 Mode Flashlight, is the one that has bad thermal transfer, but it's this Ultrafire HD2010 that would be the one to purchase??

If so, what makes the Ultrafire better?  I'm getting a few dollars together and will be purchasing this light and wanted to make sure I get the correct one.  Thanks. 

That's the triple XM-L. This is the single XM-L thrower. I bought mine from Tmart and it is a fine thrower. It is driven quite hard at nearly 5 amps. The triple would be running on just 1 18650--underdriven. 

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Richie086 wrote:

Folks can you clarify something for me.  Am I correct that the version of this light from BeamTech BT-4000 CREE XM-T6 18W 2700LM 5 Mode Flashlight, is the one that has bad thermal transfer, but it's this Ultrafire HD2010 that would be the one to purchase??

If so, what makes the Ultrafire better?  I'm getting a few dollars together and will be purchasing this light and wanted to make sure I get the correct one.  Thanks. 

Every three-XML version of this light I am aware of (regardless of what name is etched on the side) has a spring suspended drop-in pill with no thermal conduction path to the outside of the light.  The LEDs in a spring floating design will not be able to sustain high currents for very long without thermal dimming or over-heating the LED die surface.

The HD2010 in this thread has a screw-in pill that conducts heat away from the LED efficiently, through the pill and into the host body.

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kramer5150 wrote:

The HD2010 in this thread has a screw-in pill that conducts heat away from the LED efficiently, through the pill and into the host body.

 

Thanks Kramer and Rusty Joe for the clarification.  As you see, I really had it wrong and glad I posted the question.  It's the single LED version that I'm looking for and is the one I want to get.  Thanks again!

Richie

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kramer5150 wrote:

Richie086 wrote:

Folks can you clarify something for me.  Am I correct that the version of this light from BeamTech BT-4000 CREE XM-T6 18W 2700LM 5 Mode Flashlight, is the one that has bad thermal transfer, but it's this Ultrafire HD2010 that would be the one to purchase??

If so, what makes the Ultrafire better?  I'm getting a few dollars together and will be purchasing this light and wanted to make sure I get the correct one.  Thanks. 

Every three-XML version of this light I am aware of (regardless of what name is etched on the side) has a spring suspended drop-in pill with no thermal conduction path to the outside of the light.  The LEDs in a spring floating design will not be able to sustain high currents for very long without thermal dimming or over-heating the LED die surface.

The HD2010 in this thread has a screw-in pill that conducts heat away from the LED efficiently, through the pill and into the host body.

You mean like this?

kramer5150
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Sort-of, although that light does look like its pill makes contact with the body.  Or at least the owner copper wrapped it suffiiently enough to touch the bezel area and transfer heat away.  The light Richie is asking about is the 3-XML version shown below which has no thermal path.  Its just a spring "floating" drop in, suspended in a pocket of air inside the bezel.  Same host design on the outside but completely different thermal design.

http://www.easylightbuy.com/szobm-zy1600-3x-cree-xml-t6-5-modes-led-flashlight-torch_p876.html

Heres some pics of the same (poorly designed) light under another brand, post #44 where the lights owner talks about its poor thermal path.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/3157#comment-112576

Conversely, a really good thermal design 3-XML is the Trustfire TR-3T6.  Its pill/reflector base threads into the bezel to conduct heat away.  A design like this will be able to run the LEDs at a much higher current, with less thermal dimming or risk of over-heating the die surface.

 

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Mine is great except it has a connection problem when using the 18650. The spacer tube slides around in there, and ever so often, it will lose connection. This happens when I screw down the tailcap fully, not when I screw it down partially (remotely on there).

I guess I will have to get a 26650 battery, no? Would putting a toilet paper ring around the edges stiffen things up so that this doesn't happen, or would I need the 26650? The idea of more capacity to a battery and using the same 18650 charger sounds like a plan. 

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That pic is from my Uniquefire 3900 3XM-L. The only place the drop-in makes contact is the spring at the bottom and where the reflector base screws into a stainless bezel, which in turn screws into the head. You can see thermal paste on the heads. I tightly wrapped the pill with foldEd aluminum foil, then covered that with multiple rounds of copper 40 g strips until it finally made contact with the head.

Seems to have worked. Light body gets pretty warm after five minutes, downright hot after 15.

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Rusty Joe wrote:

Mine is great except it has a connection problem when using the 18650. The spacer tube slides around in there, and ever so often, it will lose connection. This happens when I screw down the tailcap fully, not when I screw it down partially (remotely on there).

I guess I will have to get a 26650 battery, no? Would putting a toilet paper ring around the edges stiffen things up so that this doesn't happen, or would I need the 26650? The idea of more capacity to a battery and using the same 18650 charger sounds like a plan. 

Hmm.. Does it do this with all your 18650 cells?... or is it with some but not others?  The spacer tube is just a plastic tube, I dont see how that could affect electrical contact.

Are you using protected cells?  I have had some bad protection circuits that developed intermittent contacts when the springs would compress the 18650.

take off the tailcap and use a paper clip or piece of wire and touch -B to the battery tube.  If it turns on/off consistently then you havea good driver board.

I would first clean out all the threads and check all the screw-together parts of the light and make sure its all snug and there are no loose parts in there.  The driver board is held in place with a small retainer ring, tighten that.  Also clean out the tailcap threads and tighten the switch retainer ring.

Did you see my post above?  with the clear insulator disk?  I dont know if this will help your light or not, but it might be worth a try.  Usually strange things happen when the +/- solder pads on the LED slug short against the back side of the reflector.

I can't think of anything else.

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I am going to have to contact Tmart about this now. The tailcap switch problem has not been fixed. I put the battery in, and even after using a paperclip to secure the 18650 inside the tube, it still only sometimes turns on, but usually goes off unless the tailcap is screwed down really loosely, like just before coming off loosely. Nothing I have done has helped.

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Rusty Joe wrote:

I am going to have to contact Tmart about this now. The tailcap switch problem has not been fixed. I put the battery in, and even after using a paperclip to secure the 18650 inside the tube, it still only sometimes turns on, but usually goes off unless the tailcap is screwed down really loosely, like just before coming off loosely. Nothing I have done has helped.

check the retaining ring that holds the driver into place.  It could be that the battery is pushing the driver up and away from its ground connection.  You could try tightening that ring.  If you can solder at all, you can try removing the ring and adding a thin smear of solder to the driver's ground ring to make it a bit thicker and then secure the retaining ring into place again.

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Didn't someone post beamshots of this light?  I swear I remember a post from someone in the UK (a newer member) who posted beamshots and now I can't find that thread.  In fact, I can't find beamshots of this posted anywhere.  (I know there are beamshots of the Fandyfire HD2010.)

-Garry

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