The first XM-L T6 bin flashlights and P60 modules. This is the beginning

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brted
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KD has already dropped the price of the 5-mode P60 drop-in. Was $20.70, now $18.80, same price as the 1-mode . . .

arenat
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Moments ago I ordered the KD's  XM-L T6 1A, at least they are honest enough to give the asigned track number upfront.

The previously ordered from another vendor is freezed in  'pending' since the order was made.

How good/bad is that tint , 1A ?

sixty545
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arenat wrote:

How good/bad is that tint , 1A ?

It is between 6500 and 7000 K (equal-to and slightly-cooler than the standard daylight temperature D6500). The same as the light at an overcast day at noon. No greenish or purple dominance.

old4570
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It has a purple green tinge on the edge [ depending on emitter ]  One of mine has a purple outer edge , the other a green outer edge , whilst the middle of the beam is white to Neutral ...

Very strange ...  But only really noticeable to the camera and white walling ... 

Though I did get some warmer [ less cool ] tints from cutter [ Havent used them as yet ]  

 Always remember , the easiest thing in the world to do , is to expel hot air from your lungs and through some vocal chords ..
The resulting sound may , or may not be worth listening too ….

 

Budgeteer
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At this time many of you got their XM-L dropins i believe (except me). So... How did you find your P60 host of choice regarding thermals? Suitable or barely usable? I heard the C8 host revieved here did perform spledidly in all spects.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Don
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Solarforce L2m is fine for me. It does heat up the head and the body gets warm which does mean it is getting the heat out of the dropin.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Kokopelli
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I ordered an L2P for my p60 drop-in (which will be shipped in a couple of days hopefully), along with the KD C8 of course Smile

Pity, KD sent an SDHC adaptor instead of a 3A 2x18650 driver. I'll have to postpone my double battery XM-L project. Everything was ready, TR1200 body, MC-E reflector and a T5 star. I almost knew that they wouldn't meet at the same point. Smile

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Don wrote:

Solarforce L2m is fine for me. It does heat up the head and the body gets warm which does mean it is getting the heat out of the dropin.

Great then, but you mentioned that your output dropped noticeably over time. Heat issues or driver if you by chance narrowed it down...

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Don
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Budgeteer wrote:

Don wrote:

Solarforce L2m is fine for me. It does heat up the head and the body gets warm which does mean it is getting the heat out of the dropin.

Great then, but you mentioned that your output dropped noticeably over time. Heat issues or driver if you by chance narrowed it down...

 

Could be the cells, could be heat. If I can rig up a current probe, I can stick it on the lightbox and measure current from the cell. Still can't get the meters to play nicely with Linux so that I can log more than one thing at a time.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Budgeteer
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Try virtualbox and use a "demo" windows XP perhaps. Might work just fine.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Don
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Budgeteer wrote:

Try virtualbox and use a "demo" windows XP perhaps. Might work just fine.

 

Might try virtualbox on a windows box but Windows is weird about USB and will only see one meter at a time.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Budgeteer
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Oh, i thought you were linux only... ah it's the multimeter software flaw then.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Don
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No, I'm a Mac guy but have Solaris, Linux, Windows boxes around. Until earlier this year, I was planning to replace my Linux fileserver (with 11 year old hardware in it) with a box running Solaris and ZFS.

These days a fileserver is a lot less necessary than it used to be with cheap external hard drives and a gigabit network.

The software is not great - internally the meter appears to have some sort of strange UART in it, with a USB converter half-heartedly bolted on. The meter appears to be a rebadged Peak Tech 4390

The place I got it from no longer sells it unfortunately and has deleted the links to driver updates.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

brted
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Kokopelli wrote:

Pity, KD sent an SDHC adaptor instead of a 3A 2x18650 driver. I'll have to postpone my double battery XM-L project. Everything was ready, TR1200 body, MC-E reflector and a T5 star. I almost knew that they wouldn't meet at the same point. Smile

Oh well, someone who ordered a SDHC adapter is going to really wonder what they got. That's frustrating that you are missing one critical part.

Budgeteer
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"The software is not great - internally the meter appears to have some sort of strange UART in it, with a USB converter half-heartedly bolted on. The meter appears to be a rebadged Peak Tech 4390"

Oh the old trick of a old standard serial communication system spit in the face by a half assed usb to rs232 converter... which probaby install itself each time you change the usb port. :/ (COM port 22 and counting...)

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

xP.1337
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ordered 4 Cree XM-L T6 1C leds today

apparently the Australian dollar is now worth more than the US dollar. go figure.

53 shipped to the US. eeeek lol

 

i figured 1c will be blueish white enough for me Smile

Don
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Budgeteer wrote:

"The software is not great - internally the meter appears to have some sort of strange UART in it, with a USB converter half-heartedly bolted on. The meter appears to be a rebadged Peak Tech 4390"

Oh the old trick of a old standard serial communication system spit in the face by a half assed usb to rs232 converter... which probaby install itself each time you change the usb port. :/ (COM port 22 and counting...)

And will only work at all when set to Com1-8, 2400 8N1

 

Why bother with USB when you make it pretend to be a 1990 modem?

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Budgeteer
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Maybe that way it does appeal to many users. Also RS232 ports are being a luxury addon on motherboards nowadays.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Budgeteer
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Maybe that way it does appeal to many users. Also RS232 ports are being a luxury addon on motherboards nowadays.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

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This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

Kokopelli
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fran82 wrote:

More XM-L lights at DX, this time a "bit" cheaper

 

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.50512~r.43033281
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.50513~r.43033281

Ordered YJ J01 at the first glance. Cancelled my KD C8 order as I built my own C8 last night. It was hard to find some space in a C8 body and the pill is crushing under pressure now. I hope this 1cm longer Eastward is better. 3 modes are still High, Mid, Strobe unfortunately.

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Kokopelli wrote:

Ordered YJ J01 at the first glance. Cancelled my KD C8 order as I built my own C8 last night. It was hard to find some space in a C8 body and the pill is crushing under pressure now. I hope this 1cm longer Eastward is better. 3 modes are still High, Mid, Strobe unfortunately.

Waiting your review/opinions/thoughts

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

Corvette6769
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Don wrote:

2600mA High

960mA Medium

90mA low

1100mA strobe

 

Looking good!

cree xm-l LED

Definitely an XM-L, not something one can take for granted from HK dealers.

Which 18650 battery did you use to test tail-cap current and how accurate is your meter?

The reason I ask is that I have several flashlights that are claimed to be driven in the 2,500 mA to 3,000 mA range, however when I check them at the tail cap I only get 2.0000A to 2.2793A (my KD Cree XM-L T6 drop-in) with my Fluke 189 digital multimeter with fully charged TrustFire Protected 18650 3.7V True 2400mAh Rechargeable Lithium Batteries

Some CPF members claim that in order to reach the full current, AW cells must be used See: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?229333-**NEW**-MG-P-Rocket-SST-50-800-Lumens-Compact-LED-Flashlight&p=2593225&viewfull=1#post2593225

 

For now I have 14 Fenix LED flashlights; TK10, PD30-Q5, t

Don
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Corvette6769 wrote:

Don wrote:

2600mA High

960mA Medium

90mA low

1100mA strobe

Which 18650 battery did you use to test tail-cap current and how accurate is your meter?

 

The meter's a very battered Fluke 77 Series 3 though the leads are aftermarket DX ones. There is a place locally that would calibrate it for me. At four times what I paid for the meter! I own several meters so I can easily measure it with something else. The Fluke is the one I trust most.

The cell used was a Trustfire unprotected 2500mAh - I seem to have hit on a good batch of those when I got 6 of them a couple of years ago. 

 

I can easily redo the measurements with different cells and meters. Might be interesting for my own confidence in them.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

Budgeteer
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I finally recieved my XM-L from KD with the skyray host for 25,55USD.  Did the foil trick. Left it tailstanding at full brightness on desk for about 10min. It is scorching hot! Draws 2,86A.

I think exposing lithium batteries to 60C or more is a bad idea. Maybe on my bike it will hold on high.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

arenat
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cree xm-l LED

[/quote]

Which 18650 battery did you use to test tail-cap current and how accurate is your meter?

The reason I ask is that I have several flashlights that are claimed to be driven in the 2,500 mA to 3,000 mA range, however when I check them at the tail cap I only get 2.0000A to 2.2793A (my KD Cree XM-L T6 drop-in) with my Fluke 189 digital multimeter with fully charged

[/quote]

 

 

 

You are using the stock probes and those not work at low voltage high current, usually those has 200 to 300 miliOhm and that is too much.

Try 10 cm long thick wires, mine MTE-F15 take 2,750 A with the TF flames cells from DX

Budgeteer
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I have one from long agao that serverd me really well. Not Fluke granted but probes aren't the cheapest available. I tried sticking decent gauge wire directly to test the difference. It was in the margin of error. Granted never tried anything above 1,4A untill today.

The cell was an unprotected sony 18650 i scavenged from a almost new laptop. The laptop was left at the shop when we told the guy it is beyond repair. (The laptop was thrown out of the window of a running truck). The reasony why is still unknown to me. I did thank him for the cells with a coffee tho.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

pipopopo
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http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=257543

The images in thread suggest that most 18650 batteries can draw 3 amp

and in tis thread all can take 3,5A and most 5A

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=235472&p=3019059#po...

 

Budgeteer: Did you buy this one ?

http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=11104

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Corvette6769 wrote:

Some CPF members claim that in order to reach the full current, AW cells must be used See: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?229333-**NEW**-MG-P-Rocket-SST-50-800-Lumens-Compact-LED-Flashlight&p=2593225&viewfull=1#post2593225

Some members of cpf are so nationalistic that they believe that american goods are

much better than everything else. In my country we have people that think the same.

Fortunately we also have this guy, who in this thread proved that AW´s are not in any way better

than the average budgetbattery: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=257543

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

Don
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Meter check (Cell at 4.20V)

Current draw XM-L P60 in a Solarforce body.

Fluke 77

2660mA High

1030mA medium

90mA low

Top off the cell again and test with the other meters. Same cell and same leads which are better than most.

Peak Tech 4390 1

Cell voltage 4.223V, the Fluke says 4.20. But then both of the Peak Tech meters say around 400mV DC with nothing connected.

2808mA High 

1040mA Medium

105mA Low

 

Peak Tech 4390 2

Cell Voltage 4.223, the Fluke again says 4.20

2727mA High

1030mA Medium

107mA Low

 

No-name multimeter I've had for 20 years. It wasn't the cheapest, but was about 15% of the cost of a comparable Fluke at the time.

Cell Voltage 4.21 The Fluke says 4.21

2830mA High

1080mA Medium

110mA Low.

 

Since I happen to have some 2.5mm2 solid copper cable here, time to make up some nice heavy leads then try again. Now where have I put the wire cutters?

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

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