TR1200 PT54 RED Aspheric Build

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
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This flashlight was built for weapon mount, long range use. It features solid copper heat sink, Ebay seller DTR-LPF PT54 red led, Optolife 50mm Aspheric lens, Direct Drive 4/3AF (18650 size) NiMH batteries, 18GA Teflon wire and a MF $13 TR-1200 HOST W/Ebay extension. Wire tape switch (too much resistance) will have to be reworked probably MOSFET switched. Using standard switch or copper penny :) . Running 3 cells was able to pull 12A. A bit high but this a short run time light. All copper parts turned and host bored for press fit. Not finished but work in progress.

Pill with threads and angle wire hole

Back side of pill with insulator installed.

Pill showing contact and 18GA Teflon wire

Pill with emitter installed with torx screws and soldered wire

Side view with rings installed.

Bell bored for lens

Bell with lens ... note keeper/spacer not finished at the moment

Bezel installed showing lens below front and recessed. Note missing keeper/spacer.

a work in progress........

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Reserved,,,,

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Very cool. I look forward to more !!!

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Looks sweet willie. I cant wait to see it finished.

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beautiful! beamshots will probably look more like laser target designator than a flashlight :)

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Nice stuff!! I have done considerable business with DTR in the past on laser builds. Great guy.

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Very nice! I like the way the lens is recessed into the body of the light which would protect the lens, unlike my Mag-mod where the lens protrudes on the front. I also really like the simplicity and function of that pill design. I would like to try this myself, but without a lathe, it's rather difficult. Undecided

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Hmm. Looks nice. Isnt the TR1200 the 5x XR-E emitter light? You gonna use all 5 or 1 XM-L or what?

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12A SurprisedSurprisedSurprised Bet that will turn the Ano orange in a few minutesWink

WOW! Great stuff! Can't wait to see it turned on and operational.

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Very nice work, Willie!! Can't wait to see the end result!

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Since it's Easter and with the wife is coloring eggs, I am going to dip the emitters in the red solution. What is proper amount of time for coloring emitters red? Just hate it when I miss April fools by a week. Happy Eggs, Happy Emitters & Happy Easter!

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some red stained glass paint and a q-tip. Using the q-tip apply a dab of the red paint on each emitter dome. Bam! 1200 lumens of red light! Cost? $3 :bigsmile:

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HI WILLI

another great build

can you tell me what paste and the reason for it that you are using under the emmitter?

whay about using solder paste to attach it directly to the heatsink?

looking forward to your results!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Long time no hear bowhunter. Heat sink paste aka fujik paste, Arctic Silver, CPU thermal compound, etc.... makes for better heat conduction from emitter to heat sink. Some helpful hints.... Tin (pre solder) your emitter -negative and connecting wire before trying to connect. When actually connecting the wire to the emitter only a small amount of solder will be needed. The emitter must NOT be attached to the heat sink while soldering as it will not get hot enough to melt the solder cuz of the great conduction.

HTH

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Hi Willie

i am back now after4 months of family stuff

like your current build here

i sent you a pm but perhaps it didn't work

will be following this build closely and can hardly wait to see what kind of beam size and intensity you get with it at 100yds

good luck!!!!

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Wow nice work!!

So B- conducts through the copper pill ?

If so, wouldn't the thermal compound/grease between the copper and aluminum host increase electrical resistance?

Great work, looking forward to your follow-up pics.

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PT emitters have a positive + ground. Put the batteries in backwards.

Although heat paste is used, the screws and other copper emitter base contact is made.

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Hi Willie

did you get the switch perfected yet?

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I have made one tape switch for the 18650 3.2v lifepo4 cell power single cell 501B. It is a fet switch powered by CR2016 coin cell. Originally was going to use 2032 but 2016 are half the width. With positive ground this switch only works with these builds, in other words on regular lights with neg ground is a nogo cause there is no switching and light remains on. Still waiting on machine time for the TR1200 switches as need to make some plastic parts. Story of my life, plenty of ideas but no time or resources.