My adventures in LED home lighting

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bose301s
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texaspyro wrote:
bose301s wrote:
If they don’t make you return it open it up and post it’s guts on here, interested to see who’s LED it is using etc.

Well, since it’s from Sylvania/Osram, I’d assume it’s Osrams.

But then their PAR16 bulbs have four XML’s. I did take apart one of their 15 watt PAR38 bulbs. It had a array chip on it… looked like it may have been from Citizen. That bulb died because it blew an internal picofuse.


I knew some of their stuff did use Cree LEDs, that’s why I was curious, always cool to see where our stuff is being used.
lesliebone
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What type of wood cabinets are best suited for LED lighting?

PilotPTK
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lesliebone,

I strongly suggest you edit your profile and remove your home address from “Location”. Everyone can see your full address.

Cute house. Looks like you just recently bought it.

PPtk

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

comfychair
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PilotPTK wrote:
lesliebone, I strongly suggest you edit your profile and remove your home address from "Location". Everyone can see your full address. Cute house. Looks like you just recently bought it. PPtk

Hello, I just find your site about wooden cabinet LED lighting. It's a subject I have been interested in much time and others will surely find this wooden cabinet LED lighting very good.

tms-led
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hello, eveyone, here is the link i share with you guys,
music control the bulbs, very nice ;

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/limemouse/lifx-the-light-bulb-reinve...

texaspyro
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One of the candelabra bulbs at my front porch gates finally died after 4 years of 10-12 hour/day use (say 15,000 hours). Something on the driver board died. Had to break the bulb to get to it (base was glued, some of the bulbs the base just unscrews). Nothing obvious was cooked. The filter cap was good. So were the LEDs (3 Chinese “egg-drop” emitters). The bulb was surprisingly well built.

masonian
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3000k-35500k belong the color of warm white,sure,you can use them in dining room,also you can consider use the neutral white,tie color temperature about 4000k-4500k…..

Best choice work with LED strips,aluminium LED profiles

masonian
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hi,lesliebone,may be you need conside what type LED lighting suit for wood cabinet…..

Best choice work with LED strips,aluminium LED profiles

gords1001
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I’ve got to say, this thread has been a gold mine, I moved into my new house last month, first thing I noticed, for an English house, there was a LOT of halogen bulbs, mostly 50w 12v mr16’s, so, I started looking around for what was available this side of the pond. Mrs gords loves to have the lights on, I mean literally ten in the morning, all the kitchen lights are on, plus all the lights between upstairs and the kitchen, that’s 22 50w halogen bulbs on must of the day and some cfl’s to boot. I could HEAR the damned electric meter whizzing round and I’m not flush either.

I ended up ordering a couple of philips master 2700k dimmable gu10’s and ceramic holders. After some questions, I’d found out that early generation transformers wouldn’t run one led replacement, one solution I found was to run three or four mr16 led bulbs off one transformer to fool it into seeing a decent load, good plan but it’d mean fishing two core cables all over the shop, remembering which light gave access to the transformer and generally just didn’t appeal to me. Then someone suggested swapping the mr16 12v holders for gu10 240v holders (England remember) The first two were an experiment, would the output be enough? would the tint be acceptable?

Well, these Panasonics seem pretty good, after failing to find a cri rating, I asked the dealer, he said he’d never been asked that before but looked it up, 81cri, acceptable enough for me and the output is indistinguishable from the halogens they replaced, I’ve now got seven out of nine replaced in the kitchen, one in the entrance hall and would have replaced the ones on the landing.

They presented a problem, the old guy had found a big industrial 240v – 12v transformer and used that, all the fixtures were in parallel off that, not the biggest problem but less simple to solve than I wanted, I picked up some osram nw (3000k) multi emitter mr16 (5 or 6w I’ll have to check) I put those in, mainly as a test bed as I’ve found another of those transformers elsewhere, they work ok, bit of a thunk on switch on and a bit cooler than I’d have preferred, but I used my litmus test, I didn’t tell mrs gords, just put them in without saying anything and waited for the complaints about me buggering about………I had to point them out, she didn’t notice at all! that to me, is the best thing, if people dont notice, you’ve found a good replacement, and these were 20w mr16’s I can even run down to one of these on that big ole dumb transformer, so they are fine elsewhere in my case.

So far I’m happy, I’ll order the rest of the bulbs next month, I have had to return six earlier phillips masters, they were a very deep (80mm) assembly and wont fit in the recesed down lights, they’d be fine in a fixture, they’d even look nice but were no good, fortunately, the ebay seller agreed on a refund, no quibbles so I didn’t get stuck with them (thank ***k since I ordered drunk and well over paid).

What’s the point? mainly to say thanks to texaspyrp for the helpful info and in the hope I added a little more.

Now, I just need to find two gang dimmers that’ll work with these drop ins and dont cost the earth.

Chloe
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Did she not notice any difference? Where did you get them from? I think I need to try some.

gords1001
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suprisingly no, they are distinctly cooler than the halogens they replaced. I got them from b and q (and paid the premium for it) I just wanted to know if the transformer would drive them and b and q would take them back if they wouldn’t work, I wouldn’t want them in the kitchen, vthe philips kill them in how close they are to halogens but for the landing they work well. I would recommend getting the newest philips masters gu10’s and sone holders, at the best price you can find, there are some good deals to be had on ebay if you hunt them out, I’m averaging £9/bulb and not being too carefull so far, just make sure they are the smaller (50 mm deep I think, rather than 80mm) ones to be sure they will fit, some of my housings I’m going to take back out and snip the cross piece to get a better fit buy otherwise they are good. I’m mainly looking forward to the electricity savings tbh, the install cost is high compared to halogens but should be recouped inside the first year of use, if they last as long as they are supposed too, they’ll outlast five or six halogen bulbs in the same fitting too, at that point they pay fir themselves.

The main thing was finding ones that put out as much light in the right tint with decent cri, id have tried the syvanias tp mentions above but they were about forty quid a pop……..I can’t stretch that far, the Philips were within reach.

if you do go for mr16’s, make sure your transformers will run them, of the sixteen individuals in my house, none would run an led drop in, so I’d have had to buy the transformers too, I got 20 gu10 ceramic bulb holders for four quid, they didn’t need to be ceramic but that was what was available.

Good luck and give them a go, one thing I have noticed tonight, we always leave the kitchen doors and all the windows open, the house is usually full of moths and daddy long legs, tonight, I’ve not seen one, I guess that’s down to the zero uv emmission of the led emitters but I don’t know for sure, need to use them some more first.

Chloe
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It could be. I get that if I leave my daylight CFLs on, but they don’t seem to be attracted to low power halogen (5-10W). >.< Thanks, gords!

Looking at the prices of the Philips Master range is making me think about buying some cheap and replacing the LEDs though that could be costly too. :~

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gords1001 wrote:
one thing I have noticed tonight, we always leave the kitchen doors and all the windows open, the house is usually full of moths and daddy long legs, tonight, I’ve not seen one, I guess that’s down to the zero uv emmission of the led emitters but I don’t know for sure, need to use them some more first.

That’s Very Interesting!! Please tell us more? Flat Stare

“There is no darkness but ignorance.”

texaspyro
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Yes, almost all bugs ignore or are blind to white LEDs.

One other thing that I have noticed with the LED fixtures is an increase in cobwebs around/in them. The bulbs don’t get hot enough to fry the critters that make them and burn off their web stuff (halogen bulbs get to several hundred degrees C… hence the ceramic connectors). Cobwebs are actually a good thing… they help filter/trap gunk in the air.

gords1001
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I found and inordinate amount of frazzled wasp carcasses when changing my lights about……I guess there was a nest in there at some point. Hopefully some of the big assed house spiders I’m finding knocking about can move in now.

Chloe, go to b and q, the one near me had a huge display showing the various led bulbs they sell, also most electrical distributers have their wares powered up so you can see the tints.

just be prepared to put the salesperson right when they tell you you want cw in the kitchen because its brighter :Sp

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Dimbo The Blinky wrote:
gords1001 wrote:
one thing I have noticed tonight, we always leave the kitchen doors and all the windows open, the house is usually full of moths and daddy long legs, tonight, I’ve not seen one, I guess that’s down to the zero uv emmission of the led emitters but I don’t know for sure, need to use them some more first.

That’s Very Interesting!! Please tell us more? Flat Stare

if you insist Wink

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texaspyro,

A lot of information here!  I'm looking to install 3 to 4 recessed can lights in my kitchen to replace my ugly dual 4' florescent fixture.  I'm set on going LED, but I'm not sure which route to go.  I was just going to use the Halo H7ICAT 6" housing (I have attic access) with the Cree 2700k BR30 bulbs.  These will be on a dimmer switch.  I have 6" cans in my lower level with R30 bulbs that are flush with the ceiling, but in the kitchen I would like them to be recessed up in the housing.

Do you recommend I go another route?  Maybe using 5" or 4" housings with PAR20 bulbs?  There are a LOT of LED bulbs to chose from, but so far I was only looking at Cree because it's something we are all familiar with.

texaspyro
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Either would work. I have the Sylvania PAR20/10W/550 lumen/3000K/95 CRI bulbs in my kitchen… 14 of them. Also 6 Phillips 10W/490 lumen/85 CRI/3000K/MR16’s.

I really like the 95 CRI bulbs, particularly in the kitchen. The PAR30’s are available with more lumens than the PAR20’s (and can be had for less money). Also, the PAR30s should last longer than the PAR20s since they have a lot more surface area for cooling. Sylvania does make some 95CRI PAR30’s…

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sintro wrote:
My dad works for a guy who owns a strip mall. And for the all night outside lighting, they use those sodium err whatever bulbs. And they are $20 each, and they need to be replaced twice a year! It’s rediculous…

Only problem is that he can’t put in regular cfl’s or incandescents because they need to be like candle stick thickness. It’s just overhead lighting too, so omni directional is not needed. Anyone got any suggestions for led ones?

We were just thinking that because the bulbs are already $40 a year in IDK, maybe 4 dozen lights, he might as well buy an led equivalent for the same price, but only have to replace every 3 or 4 years.

Where in WI are you? PKK Lighting in Middleton specializes in this sort of thing. My sales rep is Rusty and he’s very knowledgeable.

I have seen many retrofit kits that would work, but I cant direct you to where to buy them.

We have 5 150? 175? watt HPS fixtures and one 75 watt. When we bought the building it was basically abandoned, all the bulbs were bad, one of the starters, and one entire fixture. I replaced it all, and they’ve been used every night dusk to dawn for about a year, no failures yet. When they do fail I’m thinking seriously about the LED retrofits.

texaspyro
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Sylvania (Sunset Effect), Philips (Dim Tone), and a few others are now making LED bulbs that shift their color temperature down as they dim. They mimic the behavior of incandescent bulbs very well. Unfortunately, nobody seems to have them in candleabra sized bulbs yet.

dspiffy
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Tex, my intent was to replace to your thread and say how much I appreciated it, and I got sidetracked. So thanks!

What did you end up doing with your leftover Chinese bulbs? I might be interested in them.

As I posted in another thread, I have great experiences with them myself. I havent been looking for dimmability, and I havent been trying to match the overall light quality of halogens, just get a lot closer to it than the CFL PARs and CFL Rs they replaced.

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I have some cheap Chinese bulbs ( the ones with 4 less in them) I purchased 4 to replace a light fitting but all but one has failed, they last about 10 hours and start to flicker. what is the weak point with these bulbs ? or is it just poor design ? can they be fixed or should i just bin them?

Charles

 

 

 

 http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/charlestt225/Sig/A1200023-1.jpg" width="159" he

pflexpro
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I bought 20 of these bulbs from Costco for about $8.50 each:

! photo Feitbulb_zps8152703e.jpg!

I like the color (about 3200ºK) and light output (850 lumens) and they work with my dimmers… but, they are very omni-directional. While installing them, I found that the dome was not glued/welded very well on one of them, so I squeezed it at the seam and the dome popped off. Inside was a plastic funnel shaped reflector and about 24 leds. There were about 3 of the leds shining through the hole in the ‘funnel’, and the other 20 were hitting outside of the plastic funnel shaped reflector, this directed most of the light out the sides. I removed the plastic reflector and super glued the dome back on…now it’s perfect for a 4” (edison based) can light. I found a few others where the dome was easily removable, but I had to use a hack saw blade to score the seam to remove the dome on a few others.

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Just RGB SMD?can you assemble a bulb ?I think the RGB bulb is so fun.

ThorFire is looking for dealers/retailers/distributors from Europe countries and other countries around the world. If you are interested, PM me!

B42
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I currently have some input into an office installation for 4ft long 18W LED lights to replace the old lighting, CRI is listed >80 so not too great, a selection of 3000k, 3500k, 4000k and 5000k appears to be the options currently. I am wondering if anyone has experienced the light from a similar lighting fixture and what your preferences/suggestions/considerations are? I am leaning towards the 3000k, but as its going into an office I’m not certain if the color spectrum at about 80 CRI is reasonable in that range or if everything is going to look too yellow? Also there is a frosted vs clear lens selection, any advice on the impacts of this selection?

itsonlyme
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The frosted lens will even out the beam and cut down on glare. Output will be slightly reduced.
3000k will likely be pretty warm for an office but it also depends on the quality of the led fixture.

2700-3000 would be good for your living/sitting room, it’s a warm colour and 4000k for your kitchen for example. Natural daylight is up closer to 5500k.

B42
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Thanks for replying, do you use these LED replacements yourself? I have seen several reviews of similar lights saying the 4000K do not feel as warm as they should online with noticeable color shift, and was wondering what people have experienced personally if you use them.

itsonlyme
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PM sent

JonnyC
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My .02

I replaced 12 fluorescent T8 bulbs in my basement with frosted Hyperikon 4000K 18W bulbs, which were single-ended direct wire. The existing bulbs I had were slightly over 80 CRI, 4100K, and at first I hated the tint of the 4000K LEDs. The color just seemed off in comparison, maybe a little too warm, maybe a little too yellow, I couldn’t tell. But after having them for a few days and not being able to compare them side-by-side, I think they look great. I actually should have maybe gone with the 5000k though, or at least bought one of each to try them out before buying a dozen.

One thing to look out for is claims of “instant-on”. The Hyperikons say “instant-on”, but there’s a solid 1 second delay. I’ve contacted them about this and they have given a complete BS response that after a while, once they adjust to the 110v, they will instantly turn on. I could push the issue further and ask Amazon to step in to make them correct the false advertising, but it’s not worth it. I’m already used to having to wait to run down the stairs when I flip the switch until they turn on.

Because of this, I can’t trust any of their CRI claims either. But overall for $120 I’m pretty happy.

alice_1
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Thanks for your detailed post! I gonna to replace my bulbs into LED bulbs. I have heard that LED products help to save energy.

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