Oshpark Projects

[djozz]

@Mattaus

I built it for MT-G2 LEDs :)

joehoe! Now I just need to find a place to obtain the parts needed without 20 dollar shipping to the EU (so this requirement excludes Mouser and Digikey :-( ) .

I would have been very happy to buy one assembled, as you planned, but I know, shipping from Australia (exept normal letters) is expensive.

[Mattaus]

I'm in the same boat as you, although shipping to Australia is $35!!! I have to wait until I need lots of parts, and then buy in bulk. Saves me money, but then I end up having a sh*tload of stuff I don't need lol.

[Mattaus]

Cart added to post #554 and here:

Digikey Cart

Notes on cart:

- Digikey do not stock Coilcraft products. Coilcraft do however give out free samples. I got 10 of the required inductors for free :)

- R2 and R3 are my choice of resistance value for the voltage sense circuit. Either adjust the firmware to take these values into account, or use the resistors that come with NANJG drivers. Also the cart includes 10 of each of R2 and R3.

- You obviously do not need to buy U2 if you are simply swapping the MCU over from an NANJG driver.

[tterev3]

@ImA4Wheelr

I have a humble request and totally understand if you don’t have the time or interest to oblige. It would be awesome if you could create a thread giving a high level how to on PIC programming. Doesn’t need to be step by step. Just equipment and software needed. I’ve attempted to research it a couple times, but have not been successful in finding much info on the subject.

Can do, I’ll start writing it up. I’ve used both Microchip and Atmel extensively and neither is significantly more difficult to use than the other

[Helios1 (Helios-)]

@comfychair

The vias are open, I can see daylight through them, but there needs to be some kind of sealant between the PCB & body anyway so that’s really not a big deal. They’re a little thicker than the originals but that’s a good thing - the switch bezel will clamp the PCB tightly, compared to the stock parts where the PCB floats around even when it’s all screwed together tight.

Rats. I used the smallest vias oshpark supports. I can upload another board with them un-tented so they can be sealed with solder.

The diameter fits?

~ edit ~ Link. Switch board with un-tented vias on back which can be soldered closed.

[comfychair]

@Helios-

@comfychair

The vias are open, I can see daylight through them, but there needs to be some kind of sealant between the PCB & body anyway so that’s really not a big deal. They’re a little thicker than the originals but that’s a good thing - the switch bezel will clamp the PCB tightly, compared to the stock parts where the PCB floats around even when it’s all screwed together tight.

Rats. I used the smallest vias oshpark supports. I can upload another board with them un-tented so they can be sealed with solder. The diameter fits? ~ edit ~ “Link”:OSH Park ~. Switch board with un-tented vias on back which can be soldered closed.

It's not a problem, you have to use some kind of sealant between the PCB & light anyway, easy enough to just use the same stuff to seal the vias at the same time. Some of the 'genuine' SRKs had an o-ring under the switch PCB, but there's not enough space for one in the clones even with the thinner original PCB. So they aren't sealed with anything at all as-delivered.

edit: Yes, diameter is perfect.

[rhd]

Can anyone point me to a schematic that shows how these ATTiny13 ICs are being integrated with the AMC7135s ? I assume we’re just tying one of the ATTiny13 pins to VDD, but I’d like to see a schematic if one is out there (and I may have used poor search terms, but I didn’t find one).

Thanks!

[comfychair]

[Rufusbduck]

Wow, lots going on when you miss a day. I’ll update the op as I can but don’t have much of a signal in my current location.

Mattaus, would you consider making a batch of boards and selling them through MtnE or IS? Shipping for a bunch of boards has to be cheaper than for just a few. Having both the DIY option and a ready made option would open it up to many more of us. Also, a reseller would be able to put them in kit form so that one wouldn’t have to order a bunch of each kind of part.

[Mattaus]

@Rufusbduck

Mattaus, would you consider making a batch of boards and selling them through MtnE or IS? Shipping for a bunch of boards has to be cheaper than for just a few. Having both the DIY option and a ready made option would open it up to many more of us. Also, a reseller would be able to put them in kit form so that one wouldn’t have to order a bunch of each kind of part.

Definitely would consider it. The problem you will find is that the completed boards (or even the DIY option) are not that cheap - $10 in components alone. This does not include the PCB or any assembly costs (I'd hand build them). It's something I will look into though.

[Rufusbduck]

If you have pulled this off it would be the first truly customizable 17 mm buck driver and I think based on the interest in reflashed at tiny drivers there might be a market for them. Not much profit though. Another option might be to do a gb on boards and components. It would allow you to gauge interest before actually committing to the purchase. I or someone else stateside could receive, kit, and reship the parts as shipping out of the US seems a bit cheaper. I mentioned Calvin and Richard as they are more set up for this sort of thing but anyone with a “driving” interest in this as a project could partner with you. Similar to how you and I handled the BLF Tiny10. The size if the coil will prevent the same use of photo mailers that I used for the boards and will increase p&h but still might be worth checking it out.

[Mattaus]

@Rufusbduck

If you have pulled this off it would be the first truly customizable 17 mm buck driver and I think based on the interest in reflashed at tiny drivers there might be a market for them. Not much profit though. Another option might be to do a gb on boards and components. It would allow you to gauge interest before actually committing to the purchase. I or someone else stateside could receive, kit, and reship the parts as shipping out of the US seems a bit cheaper. I mentioned Calvin and Richard as they are more set up for this sort of thing but anyone with a “driving” interest in this as a project could partner with you. Similar to how you and I handled the BLF Tiny10. The size if the coil will prevent the same use of photo mailers that I used for the boards and will increase p&h but still might be worth checking it out.

Definitely needs to be done in bulk form. The driver itself is also quite thick once assembled (over 10mm) so postage has to be done in some sort of padded envelope if assembled units go out. If Calvin or Richard are interested in this I'd definitely been keen to help out.

Note - I updated the Digikey cart because I made a mistake on one of the parts (capacitor was the wrong size).

- Matt

[Rufusbduck]

That’s good. I was trying to edit the op from my iPhone to include all the new stuff and the entire edit got dumped before I finished. I’ll do it tonight from the iPad. I hate doing anything other than simple text on this device.

[Rufusbduck]

Ideally the person at the receiving end of the boards and parts would be able to both assemble boards and ship kits. I don’t consider myself qualified at anything above hobby level soldering yet and this might be best done with an oven or hot air reflow.

[WarHawk-AVG]

@Rufusbduck

Ideally the person at the receiving end of the boards and parts would be able to both assemble boards and ship kits. I don’t consider myself qualified at anything above hobby level soldering yet and this might be best done with an oven or hot air reflow.

hot air reflow station is the ticket man…makes putting these things together a freeking breeze! and reflowing emitters, just direct the hot air under the star, voila

[texaspyro]

@WarHawk-AVG

hot air reflow station is the ticket man…makes putting these things together a freeking breeze! and reflowing emitters, just direct the hot air under the star, voila

Real men use reflow ovens… no need to chase tiny parts that blew away in the tropical breeze: DIY Reflow Oven J)

[Rufusbduck]

@texaspyro

@WarHawk-AVG

hot air reflow station is the ticket man…makes putting these things together a freeking breeze! and reflowing emitters, just direct the hot air under the star, voila

Real men use reflow ovens… no need to chase tiny parts that blew away in the tropical breeze: DIY Reflow Oven J)

You volunteering for the bakers job?

[MRsDNF]

I love the way that members here donate there time at the blink of an eye to help others out. You are a true champion TP.

[WarHawk-AVG]

@texaspyro

@WarHawk-AVG

hot air reflow station is the ticket man…makes putting these things together a freeking breeze! and reflowing emitters, just direct the hot air under the star, voila

Real men use reflow ovens… no need to chase tiny parts that blew away in the tropical breeze: DIY Reflow Oven J)

Yeah I would have built one…but after I got my $60~ hot air rework station I managed to whip up all of my OSHPark FET builds and your 20mm Nanjg in about 20 minutes flat…trick is to turn airflow all the way down, start far off until the solder paste and flux get’s “tacky” and your resistors don’t go blowing across the table, then swoop in for the melt

I think I broke my SOIC clip to program all my ATtiny’s so I will probably have to build me one of the makeshift ones ah well…the show must go on

[Tom_E]

I'm trying to build out a BLF17DD, but I got the prior verison to 2.0 without R3 and R4. I'm clueless here - don't even know how to place the Tiny13A right side up. I see pin #1 on the chip, but not positive of the pin #1 marking on the board. Also not sure if a need the R3 and R4 resistors, if so, where? Should I punt on this and go back to dorpping in a FET on a Nanjg?

I just wish there was one place, one post, one thread to go to for each board - like 2 clear pics would answer all questions I would think? Maybe it's not that simple.

In the OP, rd is saying V2.0 is not ready yet. Is that all V2.0's?

I am so confused.... If I go thru the thread, I'm afraid it would do nothing but confuse me more. I tried...