Rayus C01 Nichia LED Mistake

Well since the cat's partially out of the bag I'll update with more official information. We purchased a few Rayus models including the C01 for stocking on our website partially based on mhanlen's review we deemed that they had the right LED (also because they specifically advertised they had a high cri Nichia 219). Unfortunately it turns out the LED is NOT a Nichia NVSL219AT but a NCSW219AT, tint appears to be around 5000K with probably around 83 CRI.

Rayus has been very cooperative working with me to get to the bottom of the suspicions and it appears they may have been tricked by their LED supplier. Their supplier claimed to give them a 92CRI 4500K Nichia 219, however reading the binning and spec sheets leads me to believe that they are in fact 5000k ~83CRI. A change in their advertising may soon be coming. I'm also looking for 2 people in the US to send samples to as another eye for comparison. Must have other high CRI lights to compare. Thanks!

You can find the following photos and evidence leading us to the conclusion:

C01 upper left, Triple high cri 219A lower right. The C01's LED has a more yellow hue.

C01 left, P2 Special Edition 219B on right. C01 is cooler in appearance.

Under UV: C01 phosphor does not exhibit the orange color like the high cri 219A.

How’d you get the pill out? I tried but couldn’t crack it. Also sorry for the confusion in my review- I was under the impression it was the right one, based upon the general tint and the marketing information.

The pill is just threaded in, you take two pointy things (in my case I used two multimeter leads), inserted into the two holes and rotated counterclockwise.

nice trick with the UV

Wow - with XM-L2's, all I've seen is warmer tints have darker yellow phosphor, so the Rayus is darker yellow, but the beam is green. Might just be a poor tint but still warm? That UV pic though is interesting - very different. Wonder if it's a fake Nichia.

I’ll try that. I over thought it and tried removing the PCB, and after I did that the pill wouldn’t turn.

Edit: My pill must be glued in because it’s bending my multimeter leads.

I wouldn't say it's green, I just left it on auto white balance. It's also not a fake Nichia, definitely a 219, just a different type.

I view the warmer XM-L2 LEDs as having a more orange look than yellow for cool white.

Left to right:

EagleTac MX25L3C Nichia 219A, Thrunite TN35 MT-G2, SWM T45C XM-L2 CW, SWM D40A XM-L2 NW

I recommend texaspyro as someone who has a good knowledge base (and equipment) to judge what tint/CRI he thinks they are. I would also be willing to look at one, all my personal lights except my big throwers have HCRI emitters and I have several lights built with Nichia’s, both 119’s and 219A’s and B’s. Only thing is I have no proper camera equipment, while I could share my opinion I wouldn’t be able to provide the quality of beamshot comparison’s other’s can.

In other news, what’s that RGB triple MCPCB? DTP?

That's just a triple Nichia219 aluminum board from Cutter, not DTP.

Hmm, maybe something stronger? I didn't even know multimeter leads bend that easily.

Thanks for the quick reply, I don’t ever browse cutters catalog so I’d never seen it.

While cri needs to be judged in person it is pretty clear those are not sw45. I’m sure you’d like a couple others to lend their eyes for comparison just to give it extra strength.

Now I am going to be UVing all my leds. lol Great idea and looks kinda cool too.

UV does really highlight tint differences. With these two nichia’s you can already see the phosphor on one is too yellow even without UV.

Going to discount your stock on the rayus c01, Calvin? :slight_smile:

Still discussing with Rayus what to do, I can't break MAP without permission.

I can measure color temp rather accurately, but can’t do true CRI measurements. PM sent…

I have a Minimag triple w/high CRI Nichias I purchased from you and I’m close by. :slight_smile:

Thanks for the pictures Calvin. Would I be correct in inferring that some emitters glow under a UV light, while others do not? If you don’t mind me asking, what UV wavelength did you use to test this?

another LED “mistake” from rayus. this is supposed to be XM-L2

I have a high L10 with Nichia 219 and a modded flashlight with the 91 CRI XM-L2 that you sell that I can compare against. I don't know if I'll see the differences, but I can look and take more pictures to post.

I'm not interested in keeping the flashlight, so you could send me the shipping label from me to the next person? I have plenty of bubble mailer envelopes.