2D is now Modded - Video Review and Tear Down of the 3rd GEN Maglite Flashlights - Beam Shots and Amp Draws are up

Look at Post #1 for corrections. Sorry folks, for the screw up.

See Post #39 for the 2D Mod.

Ok folks, here it is and it's a long video, with a couple of "double takes" in it, but it will show the tear down y'all want... I hope.

Totally new light! A Major design change and they really did some good things to the new Mag!

I love this new light!

Here's a couple photos of the driver/switch

3D Driver

2D driver

EDITED: Amp Draws: All amps were done at the tail end. This does not mean amperage to the LED, just amperage drawn from the cells, by the driver.

3D High 1.5 amps at the tail
3D Low .22 amps
3D Eco .10 amps

2D High 2.86 amps at the tail
2D Low .30 amps
2D Eco .14 amps

Beam Shots 2D

3D

Mouseovers - 2D is Mouse OUT, 3D is Mouse OVER

I think I damaged the pill for the 2D from removing it and replacing it. It affected the beam some. I don't think it's straight in place any more.

That's all I got I guess. I feel like either of these lights stock, would be fine for walking or general use. I would pick the 3D for more brightness and runtime and the 2D for less weight.

OMG! I just read the Manual. There's "Function Sets"!! I never read the manual. I really have to apoligize for that.

Function set #1 General Use - Full power/Low power/Eco #2 Outdoor Use - Full/Low/Strobe #3 Law Enforcement - Momentary/Full/Eco #4 Tactical - Momentary/Full/Strobe

It comes set for Standard Mode. To change Function Sets, Uncerew the tail cap, till contact breaks. Wait 2 seconds, then press the switch and hold. Turn the tail cap back in and keep holding the button till the light starts to blink, (4 seconds). The number of the function set is the number of blinks. Choose a set by releasing the button after the number of blinks that corresponds to the set you want. One, Two, Thee or Four blinks. Then you will be in that function set. Repeat the process to change to another set.

I will have to try that and see if I can do it. Sorry for nort doing my review properly to begin with.

EDIT: I have just tried it and it does work.

  • Unscrew the TC a half turn
  • Wait 2 seconds and then push and hold the switch
  • Turn the TC back in tight
  • Continue to hold for 4 seconds
  • The light will blink once, meaning function set 1 - let off the switch if you want function set 1 or continue to hold for the other function set.
  • If you continue to hold, after 2 more seconds the light will flash two times, signifying function set 2. You can figure out from there, if you continue to hold in the switch, you get three blinks and then four blinks and you let off just after the number of blinks you want, for the function set you want.

It works and I tested all modes.

Remember that when you change the different modes in each function set, like H/L/Eco, you have to be quick. Quick clicks... You have to start with the light off and click very quickly, one/two/ or three clicks, to get the level you want.

Hope this hepls some.

I will watch the video tonight when I get home.
I anticipated this light almost as much as the new iPhone 6 :slight_smile:

Is there still visible PWM with these? Thanks for the teardown.

Thank you.

Thank you very much. I have been very curious about this and that answers many of my questions.

I must say I fast forwarded a few times but I never watch video reviews because I can read a written review in about 1/10 the time and I did watch this.

Too bad about the modes though. Why would they adobt the chinese standard 3 modes? 100/50/25%

Anyway it is what it is. They likely wont change it anytime soon and I am still just happy that people who live where maglites are less dear than here can get modern tech with modes and hopefully great durability to run off alkaleaks. Wish it was me.

Why you no let kitty in video?

I can't watch video here, but the pictures show hints of quality stuff. Very exciting. Thank you O-L

thank you for the review Justin - I was wondering when you would get your hands on this new model :slight_smile:

the pictures isn’t work for me :frowning:

How long until someone figures a way to drop in a new driver and Boom! We have More Light! Much less battery life but more light.

Not supper thrilled with the spacing of the modes, and not sure how I feel about the twist spot/flood. Even back in the early 80’s when I got my first one, I thought that it is kinda a gimmick, and left it on spot most of the time…

Thanks for the tear down. I wonder if we’ll see this change on the ML units. I’d really love one of them with decent output.

I see they use my favorite Buck-Boost IC, the T.I. TPS63020. What surprises me most is the use of a four layer PCB. Seems odd for a cost conscious flashlight.

Haven't yet figured out what all the other stuff is for... this may be an interim to test the market and then shift to a custom IC approach down the road.

See Post #1 for the correction of my errors. Sorry about that.

tps63020 datasheet

I like it, looks like a nice design :*

So, I'm thinking a copper replacement for the metal pill, with a MT-G2 on it and replacing the driver in the switch. Who's going to do it first? I know someone here or on CPF, (machinist), will come up with it. Would be a great mod that could be done fairly easily, with a lathe.

If we had the light here I'd suggest it would sell for about $6000.00 + GST. Thanks for your thoughts OL. I'll watch the vid later.

Beam shots and Amp draws are in the OP.

With cells in series 1.5 amps is 1.5 amps, it's just at a higher voltage. With fresh alkalines I guess voltage under load would be, what, 1.4v per cell? 1.4 volts x number of cells x amperage = input power in watts. The 3 cell light using those numbers would be only 6.3 watts, and that's input power, so the output side will be something like 85-90% of that.With only ~6 watts input there's no way anything even close to 4.5 amps is going to get to the LED.

The 2 cell version would have to use a boost driver so the input current would be higher to make up for the lower voltage (and also boost drivers are usually less efficient). The 3 cell very well could be a buck-boost driver, since 3 nearly flat alkalines will be below the voltage needed to run the LED at ~5 watts.

Compare the tailcap current with fresh cells to the current with nearly flat cells, that will clear up a lot about what the driver is doing. If current goes up as voltage falls, it's switching over to boost mode. If current continues to fall with voltage it's buck-only.