I was given a Supfire L5 for Christmas. It is a good all-around light. It is is high quality, feels good in the hand and has a momentary side-switch. It is also my first 26650 light, which should provide great runtimes.
The UI:
Moon > Low > Medium > High
From Off
Click = moon
Long press = High/turbo
From On
Click = Next mode (L->H, ‘off’ and ‘moon’ are not in the cycle)
Long press = Off
*Long press = 1/3 second.
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The emitter was originally an XM-L2 but it was a cool white, so I swapped it for an an XM-L2 3C on a Noctigon.
The tailcap and driver springs were bypassed with 22awg silicone wire.
The LED and contact board power wires are 20awg teflon, and the e-switch wire is 26awg teflon.
The original driver was an odd size and the e-switch was mounted on it, so I scraped it down and used it as a contact board. The new 20mm driver barely fit in the pill cavity with all the wires.
I measure right at 4.3amps on High/Turbo, and 0.001amps on moon (at the tailcap)
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This was definitely the most time-consuming mod I have done so far, but hopefully there will be many more.
Thanks to Wight and others that helped with tips on various aspects of this build.
Looks like a winner! Too bad you didn’t get the full current it should deliver w/ that sense resistor.
What cell are you using?
I love absolom’s switch from the interrogative to the imperative. It’s like the strength of the build struck twice and really lit a fire the second time!
That was on a 25R that measured 4.02v before I put it in. It was too late last night to wait for it to charge. I’m beginning to suspect my meter is faulty. It consistently reads half an amp lower than what I think I should be getting.
Ick! Any chance you could measure the Vf during 4A+ operation? (Just stick your DMM probes on the +/- on the MCPCB and fire it up w/ the DMM set to 20v DC.)
I can try. I’m not sure I can get to the emitter without breaking something. I’ll probably end up blinding myself trying to find the contacts :cowboy_hat_face:
Thanks. If you find soldering easy you may want to just solder a pair of wires on to the star to hang out the front of the light and get voltage measurements from once you turn it on.