Great light djozz. I got worried when I saw you were using the stock LED board, but then relieved when I saw you jumpered the traces. Every time I kept the stock SRK (type) LED board, and boosted the juice, I kept losing emitters. Yup, the traces kept burning up on me faster than I could repair them.
Awesome mod djozz, itās always nice to see something that wasnāt designed to be good, being improved massively like this.
Today I modded a Maratac copper AAA with Richardās 12mm single side FET driver (gruppydriv rev.2 fw) and Nichia 219C.
The driver is currently on sale here: MTN Group Discount Thread - Current Deal: MTN-slDD Driver
Stock LED and driver:
Before vs After, In the photos the 1.6mm thick driver is shown, but I actually ended up using the 0.8mm one. I had to reflow the nichia 219C into the stock mcpcb because the 10mm sinkpad couldnāt clear the reflector base:
Not necessary, but I added a solder blob top and a ring of solder to improve ground contact.
This is the 5000k 70CRI+ version of the 219C, as you would expect the tint is not as nice as the warmer high CRI one but I used this because of the low Vf, it allows it to pull higher amps on a 10440 compared to a XP-G2. According to my ceiling bounce test it makes about 750lm with a fresh efest 10440, on turbo the heat can be felt immediately.
I haven't done a Maratac AAA, but I know that Vinh uses the Sinkpad on them so there's got to be a way.
Times Two!
Great mod djozz! Glad you posted this and great pics!
Triple 219bt 45K 90+ CRI w/ CU spacer both from mtn into an S8. I used a med frosted carclo but did not like it. Switched to clear narrow and much much better. Mtn 17DD + 1 w/bistro. L2 brown box clone XHP N4 1C and TR 100 driver. Momentary and Turbo only. Ba#ls to the wall serious only.
I installed an XP-L HI emitter in a thrunite ti, upgraded the wires and repaired the mode switch tab which had broken off by soldering a copper bridge over the outer contacts, works two modes again.
Then an 11mm FET driver & tiny alu heatsink into a thrunite ti xmas edition, pulls around 3.8A on startup.
Finally Nitecore EX11 v2 triple 219c all black with copper heatsink.
a/ impressing mod.
b/ Late Night Show
c/ nice collection
d/ is that a 12ā Remington Standard?
Some nice modding going on here!
I think there's quite a few here that deserve their own threads as well.
I'm planning a "Poor Man's M43" build, but it's not so "poor" when you start adding up all of the emitters, & then realize that they could all go "pop"
I reflowed an XM-L2 5C onto a DTP board and put it into my Kronos X6. The tint is great, and the beam pattern is perfect.
I modded my B158.
I swapped in an XP-L HI 3B reflowed onto a Sinkpad, added 22 gauge wire, a MTN-17DDm driver, lighted tailcap, and bypassed springs.
That was my second reflow ever, and Iām so happy I didnāt mess it up!
I painted the top of the pill a flat black to minimize any artifacts (Thanks pilotdog68 for the paint brand!). Man is it hard to use that stuff without ruining the finish.
I get 5.5-7 amps at the tail from it, and 169600cd. So about 824 meters of throw.
CRX you are seriously busy at the moment, great work!
All I did today was centre the led in two BLF A01ā¦
Does this count as a mod?
It is a Remington Standard, it does not say 12ā anywhere but perhaps the 16 means it is a 16ā ?
Found it on the street 10 years ago, still works, my son finds it much fun, he is just starting learning to read!
S2+ with a qlite (mtne) + 7 7135s (double) 16mm XHP50 U4 1C 2 keeppower 750s. You canāt keep it on high very long but it sure will give you a laugh. L/MedHigh/TurboHigh. A LOT of light. I am still laughing. Carry some batteries for backup! File, file, and file the driver retaining ring. Everyone should have at least one.
I learned to type on one of those, over 40 years ago. The letters were worn off the keys, still have it as a matter of fact. Now I have to go look to see if it was a Remington or an Underwoodā¦.
Iām having a hard time not to write something like: if you show me yours ā¦ā¦ā¦.
I found it somewhere eating dust and disassembled and cleaned every last detail of it.
Then I lend it to my kid-brother so he could write his thesis. Got it back a short while ago.
Apparently he could not be bothered to put a cloth over it :person_facepalming: :rage:
I tried a 219C on a filed Noctigon in my Olight S2ā¦that was a fail !
Artifacts everywhere in the beam, the TIR does not focus the light properly
So I swapped the stock CW emitter for a nice warm T4-7A and called it a dayā¦
Much improved Nitecore Tube XM-L2 4C
Did you chopped an MCPCB ? Do you have some internal pics ? CUrrent ?
How, and wow, great job as usual
No MCPCB at all, itās just a bare LED with a tiny copper block soldered onto the thermal pad & rigid wires directly to the emitter.
Stuffed a bit of that silicone cube stuff around it too but thereās really not much current to cause much heat. I should have took pics and measured current, but i didnāt :laughing:
This one was a little more difficult, i accidently dedomed the XR-C while working on it so iāve covered it with UV setting glass glue for protection.
Iām obviously running out of lights to mod, down to nitecore tubes nowā¦ :laughing:
You obviously have too much time in your hands :partying_face:
Keep it going, I love seeing original mods !
True, and thanks :laughing: