When the LVP kicks in at 3V, how does the switch LED blink?
lubricant is not the best to protect the threads when Stripping the anodisation, the NaOH can crawl under it and the bubbles remove it
you can always use hot wax to seal the parts you dont want to strip from anodisation,
after you removed anodisation just heat the tube and wax melts
bee wax is also good instead of normal lubricant
Not suggesting lube as mask. Lube as lube. On bare ally threads.
For mask, I use “copydex” latex rubber emulsion. Identical to expensive stuff specifically designed for similar jobs. Peels off easily. Other things, almost anything, will work. Nail varnish for example (remove with nail varnish remover or acetone)
It attaches firmly via friction. If pressed on tight it is very hard to get off again.
But for normal use it is secure enough.
You’re right, it is a typo, it is R9050 (from Clemence). (corrected the post)
The switch LED blinks 3 times, as does the main LED, then drops the main LEDs output.
In addition, while it's in this low battery state (under 3.0V), every 8 seconds the switch LED alone should blink twice. So, these two events may interact and cause some confusion, depending on the battery state and the output level the user has set. The main purpose of the 8 second frequency is to show it when the light is turned OFF by the user and the cells are reading below 3.0V.
When the user turns off the main LED, the MCU is put into a deep sleep, low drain state after 5 seconds. But when the voltage is reading below 3.0V, it delays 6 minutes in order for the 2 switch LED blinks that happen every 8 seconds can be seen. It's a way of telling/reminding the user - Hah! There's a low voltage condition - check/replace your batteries.
Just fyi, every time LVP drops output, the voltage recovers partially, so if it recovers back over 3.0V and the draw is low, it might take a little while before the next drop, or the next drop could happen fairly quickly -- all depends on the batteries, their level, and the level of amps/output.
Tom,
nope, my Q8 doesn’t.
I made a video. Its in my Google Drive
The File is: Q8 LVP blink….
I started with 3.2V, the batteries are new 30Q, exposure of the camera is fixed.
1sec ON with double click
6sec 1th step down, SW LED stays ON
17sec 2th step down, SW LED stays OFF
32sec I switch the lamp off and do again a double click
37sec 1th step down, SW LED stays ON
44sec 2th step down, SW LED stays ON
56sec I switch the lamp off and blink the voltage out
- Could it be, that at 17sec, after the second stepdown, the voltage went up to 3.xV ? Would explain the off SW LED.
- still the switch LED doesn’t blink with the main LED
- no 8sec blink of the SW LED, it stays on.
I don’t understand the blinkies.
I don't understand that either - think the 2 blink feature to show it's running on the FET is kicking in, and confusing the state, but not sure.
I didn't notice this behavior before when I tested, and none of the other prototype testers reported it either. Hopefully tonight I can get a chance to look at it.
Can anybody tell me the diameter of the tailboard? I’d like to cut one from copper before my Q8 is here.
And the distance from edge to via in the center of the springs would be great.
I will also do some tests with homemade copper screws. I have some 20mm2 mains wire lying around that would give a good starting rod.
It will be interesting so see how much torque they can take before they break.
The inner tail diameter is a bit over 44mm
43? 44? Does it vary from one board to another? Your board may vary?
The pictured one has straight cut lines next to the screwholes ……
I hate seeing circular pie charts depicted at an angle.
Yes 
. 43 on the flats, 44 on the full round diameter. I'd assume he's looking for the 44 number.
Ok - did some investigation of this and can easily reproduce it, though not every time. It is a bug for sure, I wouldn't consider it a showstopper, but unintentional behavior none the less. No harm, but the LED sometimes is left on after an LVP drop, and is not blinking the way it should be. The "bug" is that I'm trying to control the switch LEDs from multiple places so it's getting turned off quickly after turned on, and left on when it should be left off. It's a timing thing, so has sort of a random pattern - sometimes left on, sometimes left off.
Writing it up and should get it fixed in the next release, hopefully in the BLF GT -- think we still got time to update the firmware.
We’re both right. Lexel measured inside of battery tube, I measured pcb from flat to flat.
I measure Battery tube = 44.8mm.
Bug?
Hey, when I leave the Q8 flashlight on outdoors at night, I notice bugs are attracted to it.
I would prefer brass for tail plate.
Screws material is not important. Solid wire is not proper material for screws. Bare copper rod can have different mechanical properities, for screws you need hardened copper, while wire copper is made softer with annealing to allow bendings etc.
What’s the recommended thickness of the wire for spring bypass?
It pulls 20~ 23A
At 24A that is 6A per spring
So minimum of 22 guage 
Bigger guages mean less resistance but harder to work with.
Cheers David
Edit:- spelunking
I use 20 AWG after pulling the inner spring to make room. 22 AWG should work, probably very little difference, if measurable.
Thanks! :+1: