The lighted switches on 20mm boards (the ones that fit S21D) do not require a spring bypass. They should come with the same spring included on the stock switch.
I’ve accidentally melted a couple switches before when doing soldering work on a spring. Perhaps that’s what happened? The switches are the same so you should be able to remove the switch from the stock tail PCB and solder it onto your lighted board.
Gosh, I do vaguely remember that thread. Sure wish maukka would return…hope he’s doing alright. Looking at the X-rite products I think I’ll pass on those and go with the more comprehensive Hopoocolor type units. Right now those are looking like the winner. The Everfine products Simon mentioned look very nice, but way higher pricing, from what I can see. Thanks for sharing that thread.
Expensive condiments on a sandwich. lol. I’ll have to mull this over and will probably try to email them (or message on ali) to make sure I’m selecting what I want. Really, the amount of listings on their ali store is just insane to sift through.
Good to know. It’s definitely possible, even likely, that I got the switch too hot during soldering, I’m not a very good solderer. I think the sane thing to do is to order another switch so I don’t melt my only remaining one and end up with a flashlight I can’t use. Simon’s accessories are very reasonably priced. Thanks for the reply, and for all the great reviews, I enjoy them thoroughly.
It may be because the VF value of multiple LEDs is low and the driver is not compatible. This is just my guess. I am sending the driver to the manufacturer to find out the reason.
Pls PM your aliexpress ID ,i will send one new driver to you when it’s fixed
I know this is from a while back but I built a battery sized tube with a 2200uf capacitor in it to run in place of the battery. I was able to run at almost 2 Amps on the USB with the capacitor in place of the battery.
I have OHSP350C (the basic model without software). It does not give TM-30 data on screen, but it is trivial to export the raw spectra to a PC and import to Color Calculator. You can then generate full TM-30 reports.
Unless you need the expanded spectrum range or TM-30 data on-device, I’d recommend going with the base model since it is significantly less expensive than the other options.
Oh, awesome. So as the lighting professional that you are, any complaints or shortcomings? Those two features aren’t super important to me but the flicker is, a little bit. This will see double duty as hobby and at work (and not a whole lot for either one). Flicker would be nice but I could probably get them to foot the bill for something, maybe subsidize a small portion of this purchase.
