Yes it is. 
And what are they? ?
Was talking about these:
https://www.mouser.ca/Optoelectronics/LED-Lighting/LED-Emitters/High-Power-LEDs-White/\_/N-8usfj?P=1yooj8k&Keyword=luminus&FS=True
UPDATE 190617:
5700K (18x sm503 rfc00 & 18x sm653 rfa00) Optisolis module (9v configuration) prepared for testing in Finland
[Clemence]
Excited for the test results!
Also, I see that this board is available in your shop now. Can we get these with pre-mounted emitters? And how about the R95 3000K ?
Got a test sample of the board populated with 5000K+6500K mixed Optisolis with 3S12P config. It’s beautiful, sunlight on a board. Haven’t tapped a heatsink for it yet but here it is at low power (500mA x ~8V).
Wow. Amazing stuff!
Maukka, what is the Duv value of direct sunlight? Isn’t it green-shifted a good bit?
Yes, sunlight would be at about duv 0.0030.
My jetusolis 5000K tint is pale creamy yellow (cooler hotspot) and the 6500K is (“was” as I lost it a few days ago) pale blue/cyan, how is the tint of the mix, maukka ?
could this be used in an 18650 flashlight ?.
6500+5000k mix?.
Optosolis Flooder?
I have a wizard pro 6500k. would consider an LED swap or new wizard pro with this if that would work as an EDC.
thanks
This is literally perfect! There is no cyan hole.
Im in on a blended 5k/6.5k quadtrix for my RRT-01 
I think it might require a new head on the RRT-01 to fit this but lets make it happen.
Seriously if Clemence can identify a flashlight host that can use this as a mule for photography, there should be a market. Perhaps Clemence can start modding a batch like the Jetsolis. I will be first customer 
D-cell Maglites are the first thing that come to mind.
You need an ID of 46.6mm to fit the board.
Too big, I’m expecting a D1S sized light with 21700 battery to make it actually practical.
It would be extremely tricky to put them in Wizard or Tiara. I give up, perhaps someone else can
There’s 5700K E17A for that
There are plenty out there if you don’t care about focused beam and bulk head size
[Clemence]
UPDATE 190707: Soldering Tips
You can solder this MCPCB with almost any common solder paste, as long as it contains active flux (no expired). HASL surface finish makes solder wet readily on it. Sn63Pb37 or Sn96,5Ag3Cu0,5 works best.
The correct and easiest method to apply solder paste is to use solder paste stencil. Although you can get away with solder wires, it’s a mess to work with and dosing would not be accurate (larger pads will hold more solder). I have found the best stecil dimension for my application using laser cut 0,15mm thick polyimide sheet. You can download the DXF file here.
Adjust the aperture size according to your preferred stencil thickness. Thicker stencil requires smaller aperture area. Never use the “tapping” method to solder Nichia 757 on this MCPCB. It’s a bad practice and should never be used anyway. Tapping will only make the excess solder balls to short circuit neighboring LEDs. Almost all 757 Nichias have exposed contact points at their four sides, solder balls will cling to it.
.
[Clemence]
Any suggestions for a casing that is weatherproof and can be used for 110V outdoor residential security/area lighting?
Built in dusk to dawn or motion sensor is a plus.
Thanks!