Ultimate LED Bulbs - Ultra High CRI - The Honorable Quest

And is there any relation between SSC and Smart Eco Lighting companies ?

I do not know

Just found an interesting high-level article, speaking about SOL and SAW differences, and doing that using some of Adam's product offering.

PS : by the way Adam, are you Ukrainian or Belarusian ?

Bought a Lidl Livarno Lux LED E27 smart bulb. Strong do not buy from me.

-Warm white with a bad yellow tint (2700K, duv +0.0048)
-CRI Ra 83, R9 15, R12 71
-TM-30-18 Rf 88, Rg 94
-RGB modes emit an audible whine
-RGB modes have a very low output, no chance to make a mood lighting unless you buy 10 of these
-PWM is not visible on any mode
-Remote and smartphone bluetooth app work fine, but the colors on the remote don’t all really reflect what the output will be
-About 10x range in the dimming with fine steps
-Power draw 1.2-8.3W on white with a power factor of 0.48-0.59
-Power draw 0.9W on RGB with a power factor of 0.40-0.45
-Standby power is 0.5 watts


This SOL/SAW thing is confusing. Tell me if this is right or not:

SAW = Original by “Seoul Semiconductor” (Sunlike product line) in Korea
SOL = Better/cheaper by “Smart Eco Lightning” in China

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000232096487.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3da73c004HJJE9&mp=1 has come in. Box was beat up, marked marswell and diy led u home.
The color seems very accurate, just looking by eye especially at my skin, unfortunately no proper testing gear. Since it’s bright, it doesn’t look painfully blue - as is usually the case with other low intensity low cri high cct bulbs. A couple halogen bulbs evens out the CCT nicely (can’t use LEDs in 3 of the main fixtures and landlord won’t do a thing about it).

The actual base is plastic with air holes at the bottom. The LED aluminum mounts are only partially enclosed just enough to protect the LEDs, so there is room for a lot of air flow. Despite my original hesitance, I think this can more or less handle the 40 watts, and might even run cooler than all the 1600 lumen mainstream bulbs that have died on me…

What really needs to be known and I don’t feel like testing: what’s inside for the driver? I doubt a made in china bulb will have long lasting 130C rated japanese caps sadly…
I will update with pics after it has been on for a few hours to test heat…from what I’ve seen so far the heat is coming from the upper part where LEDs are lined up rather than the driver.

I’m pretty impressed and tempted to buy a few more…it’s REALLY HUGE, though, it pokes out way above the diffuser on my lamp, and would require removal of typical household glass cones or covers.

EDIT: Photos and CRI results https://photos.app.goo.gl/e51uJQ1jXSRyC62N6

EDIT2 5/4/2020:
I had to repload the CRI result… the image was missing, implying they may have DMCA’d it, but never got a notice from google… I would not buy from that aliexpress store with the way they bully, the only way that image went missing is they reported it.
They sent me “tests” with numbers very different from my old and outdated calibration tool (which only has a problem with too much green) on aliexpress…. (and of course, it was only “tested for 2 months”)

DIY led uhome if you are reading this it never pays to be a bully!

regarding the heat comment… it creaks when turned on, this implies that it is heating rapidly. so clearly there may be an issue, I have no way to measure the temperature.

You can say it!

The above figures in the picture seem to be 10x what they should, doesn't it?

25.4x
It’s in mm.

Photos added to original post.

Think that a second time Joshk, that bulb cannot measure 28.74mm wide, just the e27 base measures ∅27mm.

It is 2.874" wide and 9.252" long:

O:)

thanks to Alexey Nadezhin for review (lamptest.ru) even without my logo =)

Today I am in Belarus (BelMORDOR), last 6 month was in Ukraine (UkrMORDOR). Now I have ukrain passports and can go to Europe to apply for political asylum. But I think that I am USSR citizen, even after death of CCCP

SOL is cheaper, but now… Now they try to charge additional 10% fee from me (like for samples). And now there is cheap 3030 TRI-R SunLike leds. So, I can not say that it is cheaper, but in my web-site it is still more cheaper (8$ and 5$ per 1pcs 6w).

Better in what? I think, that spectrum of SOL and SAW is almost the same, you will not feell the diferense. But what about time of life with the same good spectrum? IF we have only violet crystals, even if some % of luminofor will die, it will be violet peak, SORAA have violet peak, Yuji leds have violet peak, and it is ok. If some % of luminofor will die in SOL? What type of luminofor will die first? And thrue what spectrum? 450nm (blue) will kill luminofor faster than violet? It will with 450nm peak after death of some % of luminofor? It is the questions, why I can not say that SOL (ChinaSunLike) is better that SAW (TRI-R)

SunLike, did you think about Vf binning the emitters you use and sorting them in packs for more balanced parallel current sharing? Any modern cheap multimeter can provide an accurate Vf figure. But since your leds are well thermally coupled, this may not matter much.

Are SunLike (SAW/SOL) emitters available through any of the cheap sites (eBay/AliExpress)? Didn't care to look for them yet.

About SunLike (TRI-R SAW). They want to have only 1 dealer per 1 country and 2-3 indernational dealers (for example avnet.com)

There is day of produse on SOLs leds. I have no any additional information about it. But I try to parrallel leds from the same batch. They have no shop on ebay/aliexpress/taobao/alibabe or etc. They have web-site (SmartEcoLightning say from Adam for good price)

Thanks. I’m just happy the statements were not backwards :slight_smile: So how about this:

SAW = Original by “Seoul Semiconductor” in Korea (Sunlike product line using TRI-R technology)
SOL = Competitor by “Smart Eco Lightning” in China

Hello everyone! I’ve found several new interesting bulbs from Osram. Also they have added a “Search by CRI” feature on their website which can be accessed by clicking on “Show all filters” in the search form

Osram 4058075134485 - 8W 2700K 95CRI E27 Filament bulb — about 6€ — 806lm

I’ve tried it. Nice thing with filament bulbs is they emit light pretty much in every direction. This one is still a bit directional, in the opposite fashion to a usual LED bulb with diffuser which emits more towards the front. This bulb emits more light towards the sides. Much better for a fixture like this one where the bulb is viewed from the sides, but pretty bad for a suspension.

It is dimmable and doesn’t flicker. As far as color rendering goes, it proudly displays “CRI95” on the box… But it’s 2700K and I find that much too yellow. I prefer 3000K.

Osram 4058075095366 - 5.9W 3000K 90CRI GU10 36° Spot2.81€ — 350lm

I tried this one. It looks pretty good. Nice 3000K light with no tint at all, looks even a bit better than the Philips 90CRI “LEDspot MV Value GU10 4.9W 930 36D” (this is not the ExpertColor). I don’t know if they will last but I’m recommending it if you want really decent looking GU10 spots at a low price. There are 230lm and 575lm versions and another 5.5W 350lm version which I didn’t try.

Osram 4058075095403 - 6.5W 3000K 97CRI GU10 36° Spot3.41€ — 350lm

This seems to be Osram’s answer to Philips Expertcolor GU10 spot… but look at the price! I’m going to order some to try them out.

There are also other models at 230lm and 575lm.

Osram website does show the spectrum and even the type of LEDs used in the two spots… you have to click on “graphics and application images”. Spectrum looks extremely close to ExpertColor.

In the 90CRI Osram spot, the lens at the front is held by three tiny plastic legs which can easily be popped off, exposing the LEDs… it is a bit flimsy and totally not waterproof, but this could actually be useful, as it means the spot can be modded., maybe with another lens for example. I’ve tried replacing the lens with a round diffuser (ie, a frosted plastic christmas decoration) and it makes a neat 3000K GU10 bulb. Output is a bit low at 350lm though.

:laughing: :smiley: :partying_face: :+1:

I have built a couple of E27 bulbs with a single Nichia E21 2000K not too long ago.
I’ll have a look if my Imgur account is still alive, so i can share some pics.

But my Ultimate LED bulb would be something like this:

Omnidirectional ‘normal’ looking E27 pear with frosted glass.

Someone here linked to it:
https://www.ledvance.com/professional/products/lamps/led-lamps/professional-led-lamps-with-filament-style-led-technology/parathom-retrofit-classic-a-dim/index.jsp?productId=ZMP_3240277&classificationId=GPS01_1504396

Not clear to me where to buy them though… (anyone know?)

But these are LED filament bulbs, obviously.
I really like the concept, but i’m always curious about how hot the filaments get, since they have zero heat path.

I don’t understand why LED filament bulbs are usually clear glass.
Frosted is much better.

Please share :wink:

> Someone here linked to it … Not clear to me where to buy them though… (anyone know?)

Click on the price link in my post above. The website is in French, but it ships from Netherlands. I don’t know why… there’s always google translate… Also you can search for the ref “Osram 4058075134485” and you’ll find shops.

Note I don’t like 2700K at all so I don’t like this bulb. But if you do like 2700K and you want 95CRI, it’s quite cheap.

> I really like the concept, but i’m always curious about how hot the filaments get, since they have zero heat path.

The bulb is filled with gas at higher than atmospheric pressure that transfers heat by convection. Not vacuum like an incandescent bulb… However, convection carries heat upwards, so if it is mounted in a luminaire with the glass bulb upwards, the top of the bulb will be hot and electronics in the cap will be cool. If it is mounted with the glass bulb pointing down, electronics in the cap will cook. These lightbulbs are not really built to last…

> I don’t understand why LED filament bulbs are usually clear glass. Frosted is much better.

If the bulb is visible then frosted is much better. If the luminaire has a frosted glass diffuser then the bulb does not need to be frosted. For wall mounted luminaires (example ), the bulb throws half its light output at the wall. The back of the luminaire is usually white or reflective so it reflects light back through the clear bulb and into the diffuser in the front. Taking this into account, a clear bulb will be much brighter than a frosted one.

In fact for a wall-mounted luminaire, a bulb that throws all the light to the front with a heatsink at the back would be nice… but that wouldn’t sell because once you screw it in, most likely it will end up in the wrong orientation.

I don’t think frosting or even white powder on the inside costs a lot of Lumen.
Maybe you know / remember the Philips Argenta Tungsten bulbs of the past?