Thanks for sharing, very interesting. The monocular “converts” all output (hotspot and spill) into a single smaller hotspot? Not much output loss and I assume throw is a lot more?
I haven’t been able to check if the throw is increased, but it does seem more noticeable as there’s less sidescatter from the spill blocking the view.
One of the pictures with the ring around the side is from turbo. And just as always turbo still makes this light get very hott. So I was worried it would melt the tpu plastic eye piece on this lens.
There are two focusing adjustments and both were dialed to allow the utmost lep like beam pattern.
Every lens element you add will introduce a fairly significant loss in total output, particularly with plastic lenses. This may be offset by the increased focal distance, but I don’t think it’s guaranteed. Much has been written here about this, and I would suggest this is very similar to an aspheric lens (probably just a few aspheric lenses in a focusable assembly).
I found this interesting post on reddit, from what seems to me a very experienced and knowledgeable poster. With the 40% sale, the Wurkkos btw is the least expensive SBT90.2 light on market. Nothing comes close, not at 65 bucks.
Also note the CCT of my Wurkkos measures at 5163K, resulting in a surprisingly warm beam.
This LED is simply a must-have. It’s big, stupidly power-hungry, runs super hot, gets pretty green on low levels, is low CRI, and only available in 5700k, but is an absolute beast, being both stupidly bright, around 4000-5300 lumens (Though only a few lights hit over ~4800 lumens at startup), AND having incredible throw. It throws close to as well as a W2 but with 3.5 times the lumens. It’s nuts. It’s also one of the most expensive LEDs, so all the lights that have it are kinda pricey, but you can look for deals, and it’s 100% worth it to get an SBT90.2 light. Have a look at this list of SBT-90.2 lights and pick something. You basically can’t go wrong…
I’ve praised how wide, bright, and useful the Wurkkos TS30S’s beam is, and hopefully this beamshot explains it. It’s true the priority for a thrower is at the hotspot (brighter = more throw), but I also look at the spill because for me, a large spill makes the light more balanced and useful as the illumination area is larger.
BTW I have three M2RPro’s (pls don’t ask, my early flashlight experiments) and pictured are two of them, one has a nice warm color, the other has an out-of-control green tint, among the worst I’ve seen. Olight has beautiful finish and construction but LED consistency and color quality are not their strength. The beam is actually very nicely balanced between hotspot and spill, just the green tint that ruins that light for me (this was the moment I turned to Convoy 
).
I actually do like the Nicecore a lot. It’s a nicely small, light EDC. The throw is lowest in this group but the bluish beam just makes it subjectively brighter than Olight’s warm colors. It also has a very good spill, better than all others except Wurkkos.
These 2 pictures “translate” how the white-wall beamshot above looks in real life scenes.
First pic shows the very narrow the view of IF22a with its 5° TIR optic: extremely bright hotspot (great throw), but with poorly lit periphery (very little spill/flood).
Contrast with second picture of TS30S, which lights up everything like a lighthouse . The hotspot is extreme plus (great throw plus lol), the spill is wide so you could see periphery. If you squint you might also see the nice warmer beam color of TS30S (very obvious in actual use), versus IF22a’s harsh and flat blue beam. Setting is fixed for comparison and the TS30S is so bright pic was totally over-exposed.
Precise and clear multi-control group experiments. 
Great job cannga!
I enjoy the purest fun of being intoxicated in flashlight research.
We also hope to optimize and upgrade the TS30S in the future.
If you are the exclusive designer of TS30S, how do you want to do for update?
- no strike bezel 
- green ar coated glass to lower duv. mine is pretty green at low levels
- maybe buck + fet?
Hi Terry thanks. I don’t know how you are able to sell this light for 60 bucks, but keep up the good work! Some of what I found so far:
1. Battery with high current drain capacity: I’ve compared Samsung 40T against Wurkkos stock battery. The brightness is about 15% on Turbo start using ceiling bounce test. Although test is “home-made” I am confident because the result is quite obvious and “repeatable.”
1. (tied ) AR coated lens: I’ve compared the stock TS30S lens against two AR coated lenses. Just happened to repeat test yesterday with Opple Lightmaster. Gain is at least 4%. The result is again quite obvious. Unlike gain with battery, where one could argue that such gain comes at the cost of faster thermal stepdowns, the gain from an AR coated glass is without any disadvantage. Maybe this would be my first recommendation. This one could be done without increasing cost too much; another perfect reason to do it. Maybe replace the large strike bezel with this to keep cost low.
great photos
the tree is clearer in the first photo, because the intensity is similar, across the beam
the second photo has at least 3 different intensities across the beam…the center, the corona where the hotspot and spill are blended, and the dim outer spill.
Usually a beam profile like this is a good multipurpose, because it has long reach in the center, combined with spill around the perimeter, that illuminates the near foreground, such as when walking.
For a weaponmount, the spill of the reflector is a negative, it illuminates too much foreground, and overexposes the center of the target.
The narrow Tir in the first photo can show a distant target more clearly, without the overexposed center of a reflector. Thanks to the even brightness across the beam profile of the Tir. This would be a better weaponmount beam profile, used from a static position, not while walking.
The narrow Tir is also less likely to shine into the neighbors windows. The spill of the reflector is much more likely to piss them off.
Thanks Jon. Sure, that’s the main point: the IF22a is a great light, but only for those looking for that particular narrow beam pattern.
For a search or safety function you will miss the person you’re looking for right outside of that small bright circle.
No right or wrong. I just like to inform those who are new to this. The throw metric is not the only spec that needs to be considered when looking for throwers. Beam pattern matters and unfortunately not often emphasized.
Thanks for positive response my men.
We are also trying to use AR coated glass, but we can only purchased the blue version now.
The battery may difficult to improve. Because the cost of Samsung is much expensive than ours, we can’t maintain a lower price.
Thank you Terry. Yes please IMHO blue AR lens is better than no AR (actually one of my lenses pictured above is blue). Personally as OCD as I am about Nichia, I don’t nit pick as much about beam tint for throwers as in general there are a few suboptimal major effects on beam color and vision already: CCT is inherently high (beam color already not that ideal), CRI inherently low, and subjects are so far away.
I understand the battery issue. Really it’s not that important because the limit of these super throwers are thermal stepdowns anyway, not really the battery. The Samsung 40T is for fun and mostly bragging rights :) . That was how I was able to clock 993 meter (!) throw out of this bad boy AR lens and Samsung battery.
I forgot to mention thermal calibration is extremely important for any Anduril lights, TS30S included. But no other large scale brands seem to be doing it at the factory so I will grudgingly give a pass lol.
Again it comes back to the incredible price/performance ratio that will allow more people to enjoy the beast. At 60 bucks I’m not complaining much. Anything you add is great; thanks for listening and keep up the good work.
This light really is a great balance of build quality, price, and performance. One thing to possibly consider is making other 3v emitters options available. I could see people really liking an SFT-40 version of this light. I think this really comes down to tooling, stocking, and logistics costs. Simon seems to have found a great formula for the enthusiast market.
Personally I found stabilizing the flashlight by tripod or just put it on a box or something, and NOT hand holding, very helpful for getting consistent/stable numbers from the Opple Light Master Pro.
But for throw measurement, tripod mount is especially important, since you have to make sure the small hotspot is centered exactly on the Opple’s sensor, some distance way (6 meters in my case). This tripod flashlight holder in the picture is very inexpensive and much better than the rubber one without velcro holder (which I also have): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2251832688558005.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802x4tfGX&gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
It was with this setup that I clocked 993 meter throw out of Wurkkos TS30S, a record for third party measurement of this Wurkkos I think . Samsung 40T and UVL Acrylic lens also help. BTW I’ve tried multiple times to hit 4 digit throw but so far unsuccessful. At Turbo turn on yes it was 1000 m plus throw, but by 30 seconds thermal stepdown hurts.
I really didn’t know this hobby could be so much fun lol. And key to the party is the Opple Light Master Pro - very highly recommended esp if you are into “collecting” LED’s.
This light would benefit a lot from a current regulated driver like a buck driver+fet at like 15-20 amps.
Get rid of the strike bezel
Maybe boost the charge current to 5v 3A for faster charging?
Otherwise it’s good as-is
Nice suggestions.
Recorded it
Thanks for the information. I ordered one a few days ago when I saw it went on sale. I am waiting my order to arrive and see how it compares with my Convoy M21C-U with CREE XHP70.2. I like my Convoy that the highest brightness is well regulated across different battery levels, but wished it had Anduril UI. I also own Astrolux FT02S with SST40, but it often not as bright as my Convoy. It is tad more brighter in turbo mode when fully charged, but becomes dimmer as battery level falls.
I suppose TS30U has Anduril 1.0?
Yes Anduril 1. BTW to prevent the flashlight from rolling off the table accidentally, I use Convoy generic clip-on clip+, AFTER bending its arms outward so it doesn’t scratch finish as much. Also as already mentioned, Samsung 40T and UCL-AR lenses at flashlightlens.com also increase output a good amount.
Convoy lights of course my favorite and always do well at keeping brightness (and being among the hottest lights I tested, at around 60 degree C externally). I had XHP70.2 light once in neutral white, very bright and floody but ties with my Olight XHP35 HI as having the worst green hell I’ve ever seen.
If this Convoy light’s throw is 355 m as in the 1lumen review, comparing with TS30S will be like bringing a knife to a gun fight. I think you will enjoy the Wurkkos’s ridiculous light show a lot; just point it at things far away :+1: . As with all super hot, super high lumen light, there is simply no way around the physics of heat leading to stepdowns unless you move to an ever bigger $$$ light with larger thermal mass or $$$ active cooling. Wurkkos is no exception but it’s not too bad and the initial blast will be more than worth it.
IMHO SBT90.2 is the culmination of the latest LED technology has to offer wrt brightness and throw. And SBT90.2 in the Wurkkos is the cheapest way to experience this technology advancement first hand, a must-have once in your flashlight-life (grin). The LED alone is super expensive @ $30 so I don’t think Wurkkos is making much selling this thing for ~60.