We aren’t the first, as Simon was already talked into green AR as default for S2+ 519A. Not sure why green AR wasn’t default for S21E 519A.
During the lens comparison I noticed Duv would drift downward the longer the LED is on. As if it’s part of warming up. Because I have nothing better to do I ran another test to see how much and how fast this drift is.
These are numbers from S21D with Nichia 219b 4500k. Brightness is 2 down from max, 10% (?). The light is on tripod as usual and in this setup I could see x,y coordinates drifting slowly 1 or 2 points at a time (4th significant figure).
Start: Duv –0.0084 CCT 4455
5 min: Duv –0.0088 CCT 4466
10 min: Duv –0.0091 CCT 4470
15 min: Duv –0.0093 CCT 4471
20 min: Duv –0.0094 CCT 4473
25 min: Duv –0.0095 CCT 4475
30 min: Duv –0.0096 CCT 4478
So Duv dropped about 12 points while the LED is heating up, and was still drifting slowly when I got bore and terminated test. I’ve seen the same thing with my 519a LED. (EDIT @ 25 min)
Is there a reason for the sudden discontinuity at 25 min?
Thanks for your eagle eye attention. The reason was probably someone interrupting me during my lunch break. 
25 minute: x 0.3581, y 0.3430
Duv –0.0095 CCT 4475
Makes sense, thank you for the clarification!
The drop in duv and rise in CCT seems to suggest that more blue is leaking through the phosphor--I guess the phosphor has slightly worse performance when hot.
Another related (?) phenomenon I observed yesterday: I was messing with a Convoy S2+ 519A triple running on a 4-mode 5A driver and protected 5A battery. I've had the light for a month and used the turbo lightly, no issues. Yesterday I ran it a bit too hot, and it tripped the cell's protection circuit! I guess that heat somehow also causes higher current draw (through lowering forward voltage), which might also cause more blue to leak out as the phosphor comes closer to being saturated.
From AR lens Duv comparison to Duv drop with time and heat, the last couple pages of this thread contain the most fun and relevant discussion for me, all thanks to the humble Opple. And the tests are easy: the main thing is to NOT move the light or sensor once you’ve set them on stable platform. I repeated test, but with Nichia 519a 4500k, 10 degree clear lens, brightness 20%. Sensor 12 inches from light.
Start: Duv –0.0008 CCT 3876
5 min: Duv –0.0017 CCT 3849
10 min: Duv –0.0020 CCT 3840
15 min: Duv –0.0022 CCT 3834
20 min: Duv –0.0025 CCT 3825
25 min: Duv –0.0026 CCT 3822
30 min: Duv –0.0027 CCT 3818
A few things I noticed:
- The Duv drops ~20 points after 30 minutes, even more than with 219b. Now I know, if I do the “wave test” (waving the light on the Opple) I will get a more positive Duv.
- As LED heats up, CCT of 519a goes down, in opposite direction to 219b.
- I previously wrote that the beam of 519a 4500k has a golden tone here, now I know why it does. The actual CCT of my 519a 4500k is ~3800k (plan to re-test with 60 Degree Bead lens). This LED should really be compared to 219b 3500k, not 4500k.
Flashlight fun pic 
, my beloved Emisar D4V2’s (background is a To’ere slit drum btw). These guys I keep in my bedroom because they are pretty, especially with the aux lights on full blast, parasitic drain be damned lol. The knurling and matte anodized finish are truly first class.
The pink aux light is actually my most favorite (in the sand colored Emisar). Somehow it sparkles more to my eyes, diamond like.
PS I know these are not Convoy but lots of us do have dual Convoy-Emisar “citizenship.”
Can’t agree more. I love my Emisars and Noctigons, but that doesn’t mean I don’t love the S2+ Convoy triples I’ve built. To quote something I’ve read here on BLF, “S2+’s multiply like rabbits” (or something to that effect).
A purple AR lens is advantageous when the LED is already rosy or too rosy.
I swapped out many purple AR lenses to green, but left it in my triple 219B sw45k flashlight since it was already very rosy. Same with dedomed 519A LEDs since they are very rosy.
(Relevant/interesting post from my other Convoy thread)
From Turbo start, percentage of max brightness where each flashlight settles after stepdowns (in general within 10 minutes after start) using ceiling bounce method. I checked these numbers because for the way I use my flashlight (as a walk light, duration ~50 min), where the light settles (the sustained brightness) is most important. Lights that settle at too low level are not good for me because then I would have to re-push button, then it would get dim again etc.
1. Convoy Headlamp H2 w/ Nichia 219b: 61%
2. Convoy S21D w/ Nichia 219b and 519a: 37-40%
3. Convoy M21E, F, and B w/ Getian GT-FC40: 35-37%
4. Nitecore MH12S w/ SST40: 33%
5. Fenix Headlamp HM65R-T w/ SST40: 32%
6. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b: 22-26%
7. Wurkkos TS30S w/ SBT90.2: 16%
8. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 60° Max Temp: 16%
9. Coast XPH30R Headlamp: 15%
As some of us have observed, Convoy lights tend to settle at highest level, that’s partly why I love them. All Convoy lights stay bright but the Convoy H2 headlamp with Nichia 219b in particular is fantastic and extremely highly recommended as headlamp for evening walk/exploration (keep in mind it is heavy so you need to buy headstrap with a top strap like this one). The Nitecore MH12S, one of my favorite throw lights, is not bad.
The few Anduril lights that I have tend to settle at the lowest percentage, especially Wurkkos, even after thermal limit has been raised. But note that 16% of the monster SBT90.2 LED in the Wurkkos is still the brightest light in my collection 
.
From this small sample of my own lights above, it should be very obvious that the lights with proprietary UI, Convoy, Nicecore, and Fenix, are at the top, and the lights with Anduril (all calibrated and with raised max thermal limit to 50-55 C) are at the bottom.
The question is whether this could be corrected were I to raise my Anduril lights to 60° C. Luxwad in his excellent review did the comparison but the results are mixed, and the percentage still tops out at only 1000/4500 = 22%. Is it because the monster SBT90.2 just outputs so much heat, or is it the inherent nature of Anduril’s auto regulation?
Now I am curious and would like to test myself. The only problem is I don’t have a light with similar LED’s heat and host’s thermal mass profile as the non Anduril lights above. Either the small D4V2 and equally small TS21 will have to do. Fenix headlamp is small too and it has high stepdown brightness.
Just updated the index on page 1 of the interesting or fun posts that I’ve wasted the most amount of time on :person_facepalming: . Hope it helps for anyone looking to waste time reading about Convoy. The list has become more lengthy thanks to Opple Light Master.
And flashlight fun picture of the copper Emisar D4V2 with its copper finish. I chose green aux, green button lights. The copper has aged beautifully since new.
(The numbers will be updated as I have time to repeat tests & correct errors.)
1. Convoy Headlamp H2 w/ Nichia 219b 4500k: 61%
2. Convoy S21D w/ Nichia 219b 4500k and 519a: 37-40%
3. Convoy M21E, F, and B w/ Getian GT-FC40: 35-37%
4. Nitecore MH12S w/ SST40: 33%
5. Fenix Headlamp HM65R-T w/ SST40: 32%
6. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 4500k w/ 70° Tmax : 30% (int temp 64° C, ext temp 59° C, cannot hold w/ bare hand)
7. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b 4500k w/ 60° Tmax : 23%
8. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 70° Tmax: 22%
9. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 60° Tmax: 16%
10. Wurkkos TS30S w/ SBT90.2: 16%
11. Coast XPH30R Headlamp: 15%
12. Emisar D4V2 with Nichia 219b w/ 45° Tmax: 14%
13. Wurkkos TS21 w/ 45° Tmax: 8% 
my poor Wurkkos, at least the LED is a gem
Redo test and ranking for final brightness percentage from a Turbo run-down, using ceiling bounce test. Please skip this if you’ve seen it in my other Convoy thread - allow me to double post since I think it’s interesting and don’t want future readers to miss it lol.
Convoy still on top, and 60° C limit didn’t help Anduril lights much. Please note these are small Anduril lights; I don’t have similar larger lights with larger thermal mass. Well the Wurkkos TS30S does have larger thermal mass, but it has that crazy SBT90.2 LED.
I plan to edit/update this list if/when I buy more lights since IMHO it’s such an important parameter for a walk light, where lights are on for long duration. Please note this is a “home test” and values may change if I repeat any test when I’m less lazy and find errors. As always, hope this helps.
Some other observations:
1. At 60° C, my Anduril lights are still at the bottom as far as sustained brightness. Brightness tends to drop very fast in the first few minutes, off a cliff vs my Convoy and Nitecore that have proprietary UI, at least based on my limited test.
2. Unequivocal evidence that the thermal limit makes a big difference in both prolonged initial brightness AND the final brightness. (Reading reviews of other Anduril flashlights this has not always been clear cut to me.) This is a good sign that Anduril auto regulation is working exactly as intended.
3. When I set Wurkkos and Emisar D4V2 to 60° C max, the external temp as measured by my IR gun is around 50-55° C at the head. What this may imply (meaning I’m speculating) is that the internal temp of Convoy MAY be even higher than the 60 that I’ve measured externally at the head.
4. When I reset my Wurkkos and Emisar to factory setting, the temp read 8 C° and 12 C° respectively, where it should be around 20° C. If I didn’t re-calibrate, then this would bring the max limit to something 10° C higher than set (I hope I’m not losing you here ). Basically this is a way to cheat and increase T max of Anduril . Not recommending, just noting.
Did you factory reset while the light was hot (around 30-ish degrees it would seem)?
Factory reset assumes the light is around room temp (21°C) and sets the temperature offset based on that.
Like you, I do not rely on factory reset. I confirm w IR thermometer, and calibrate the flashlight to match.
Otherwise my Sofirn SC21 Pro will set itself to 8-11C lower than reality. My Wurkkos TS10 after factory reset reads 1-3C lower than reality, I recalibrate to match my IR reading.
After recalibrating, I confirm using the Temp Check on the light, that it matches the IR Temp.
Thanks. This is an excellent point that I did not think about. My lights are all set to one click to Turbo (150) so it’s entirely possible. I was playing around with them at the time of the reset.
This is why I enjoy posting on BLF. I learn a lot from the responses.
Got some $ from Olight M2R refund and couldn’t resist yet another Convoy (3 Olight $ = 10 Convoys) :) MAO M21B w/ B35AM 4500k . Very interesting that this is essentially four E21a? I have taken several beamshots of E21a (for example here) and by now fairly familiar with it ; really curious what the B35AM beamshot will look like.
Some info of B35AM below. I wonder why this would have a “donut free” beam - secondary to the gapless configuration? I thought that’s an issue related to focus positioning of reflector & LED.
Near gapless configuration of 4x E21A die size on a ceramic package with phosphors deposited in between the seams. This 3,65mm x 3,65mm LED is a miniaturization of the bigger 144A (5mm x 5mm) but with color quality and CCT range of E series. Although the max output and current capabilities are less than normal 4x E21A setup, the tighter uniform “donut free” beam and robust ceramic package makes this LED easier to implement where tight beam control is required. The white reflector “fence” make sure most of the light directed upwards and reduce the color shift over angle. Designed for high power (8 watts) narrow beam directional lighting with broad range of CCT (from 2700K to 7500K) and available in various CRI (Rnn, R70. R8000, R9050, R9080).
5step for the 4500K from Convoy.
Thanks. The knowledge on this forum is great.
Out of curiosity I did a rough calculation on the Duv range of 7step. Seems like about 20 points form one end to the other?
That doesn’t seem too bad but I guess 7step’s CCT also has a large range of variation; for example CCT of 4500k looks like it could be as low as 4100k and as high as 4900k. This is quite a large range of beam color variation.
