Gnope. Stuck in a Sofirn cell (4.2V vs nominal 6.0V for the alkaleaks), and it’s bright as Hell. I think I also tried a pre-testing (~3.6V) cell, and it still worked fine. At least that’s what I vaguely recall.
I’m just wondering what I was substituting in that light, lithiumwise.
Right now, I got 2 AAAs at around 1.2V and another 2 at 0.9V, trying to at least kill the latter 2 before they take a dump in the holder. Starts off middlin’ bright and dims rapidly as the
crappy crappier cells get hammered on.
Actually, hold off on that…
I was thinking of the wrong light. This one needs the holder with the nipple on the end, unless you wanna solder a spring to the pad on the driver. It’s got a pill at the business end of the battery-tube, removable, and a driver with retaining ring holding it in†. So flattops won’t work, need a pronounced buttontop, or better yet, a spring.
Still, use the holder with alkaleaks, and it should do fine.
3×AAA will fit a 21700, 4×AAA will be loose, and need a spring on the driver’s pad.
Now add to all the confusion the 2×D light where I got 2 3×AA holders inside. :person_facepalming:
I’m going all Frankenstein on these lights, can’t even keep ’em straight.
† But now I can replace the driver if I want to!