I found this comment interesting:
“…The FFL505A is probably the most inefficient modern LED in the 5050 footprint that has ever been tested. At just 30.9 lm/W at maximum possible current, it is even less efficient than an over-current halogen lamp (36 lm/W)! An LED has obviously been designed here that completely subordinates its efficiency to the goal of a rosy tint, and this is even more extreme than with the SFT-40 3000 K (test here )…”
For people not technically oriented like myself, does that mean more heat than usual because of the extra phosphor required to generate the rosy tint?
It’s more that the FFL505A 3700k puts out very low lumens compared to the 6500k version, for the same amount of current. I.e. at 5A the 3700k may only give 800 lumens while the 6500k gives 1300 lumens.
You would have to drive the 3700k much harder to get the same amount of lumens but it would never reach that anyway.
I have found mixing the two recovers some efficiency and still rosy.
Another strategy that I have found works better to recover efficiency is to mix the 6500k variant with low CRI 3000k emitters of similar construction, i.e. Yinding 3000k or LumenPioneer 3000k. The Yinding AliEx store used to sell a 70 CRI variant with negative DUV that makes beautiful mixes with the FFL505A 6500k, but uh, I think I bought out all the remaining stock. I have tried other AliEx suppliers but never found that tint bin again, the Yinding one had a uniquely negative DUV. The LMP 3000k (=W5050SQ) is okayish for mixes but positive DUV.
Very interesting discussion. It seems Nichia 219b, a LED known for its rosy tint, achieves the rosiness without such inefficiency? I wonder if this implies Nichia’s superior technique/technology.
Excellent info thanks. I might just get E07x so this will come in handy. Maybe I should just buy E07x with the current rosy 4000k batch now because history seems to indicate with FFL leds very limited quantity is involved with each batch.
I prefer throwy light so there is less need for E07 versus E04. But… it’s a hobby and there has been no rhyme or reason with the things I do in my various hobbies (photography, audio, cars, etc.) .
I broke down and ordered the Firefly E07X Cannon w/ FFL351A 4000k Rosy Tint. My reason is simply that not only you only live once, you also only retire once.
Kidding aside, I like to collect lights with rosy tint LEDs especially @ 4000-4500k and this one ticks all the boxes. In addition LED’s with negative Duv/rosy tint come and go and sometimes don’t come back (tint lottery), so sooner rather than later is good for me.
I will deal with the imminent arrival of E04X, supposedly a thrower with different LED (FL505A), when the time comes. 2 lights are always better than 1 right?
I have it in 5000K, and its my favourite outdoor light.
I plan to eventually modify it and mix it with 4000K emitters to make it a more versatile 4500K.
BTW the Firefly “chat person” stops replying to my multiple questions about E04x after he let it slip initially that it’s quad led FFL505 lol. When I look at FFL505, it appears only they are only available in 3500k and 6500k? This makes my decision of E07x with rosy tint 4000k much easier.
Simon is talking about possible Convoy with quad B35AM, itself a very beautiful LED, so I look forward to more toys.
Upon hearing the reason I’ve been away from BLF for a long time, fellow BLF’er @14500 asked me a simple question. The result of that exchange is the Firefly E07X pictured here, a small, extremely beautiful light that uses a 4000k version of the FFL351A LED 3700k that got quite an impressive review here on BLF. Sporting Ra 96 Ra 97, Duv -0.0064.
I have some numbers of my own and comparison beamshots coming, but suffice it to say, this is the first light in my small collection that has put a challenge to my Nichia 219b light. It is also the prettiest (check out the unique frost and clear optic to show off the RGB Aux LEDs, as opposed to D4V2’s all frost or all clear), and like my Skilhunt H04 head lamp, looks and feels like a piece of jewel. Like its creator has put a lot of thought into every part of its design.
Being away, I have missed the boat on this LED, as it has gathered a lot of discussion already. But, better late than never. I saw on Firefly’s web site that all colors version are out, and only MAO finish is available. It seems like Firefly makes a limited number of these specialty-LED lights, so I pulled the trigger right away.
Heard so much about JP40 so I just ordered some to test in my Chaos at this vendor. Testing by @Mooch is here. Tried so many times but just could not break the 30k barrier. The only trick I haven’t done is trying to warm up the batteries because I’m afraid something “bad” is going to happen lol. Now the 30k has become a “thing.”
Strictly amateur-level testing of instant Turbo-on output; wonder if the Mystery Lishen finally be unseated.
Does the JP40 best the P45B in output? The JP40 should run longer than even the P50B according to mooch. It has also beat the P50B in other ways by very good margin according to some videos comparing different cells. The JP40 should be the best high-drain 21700 in the world currently!
Below is partial quote (see review for full comments) from @Mooch review of P50B. It’s close with P50B slightly ahead.
Overall P50B is hard to beat, but I went for JP40 because of all the raves. I want to have something that could beat Nealsgadgets “Mystery” Lishen. It won’t be a fair test though because the Nightwatch Chaos requires button cell and Lishen has soldered-in button. JP40 will just have Convoy button adapter.
“…The Molicel P50B is an extraordinary cell and runs for longer than the P45B by a couple percent at up to about 20A. At 30A the P50B runs for about 5% longer and at 40A it runs for 12% longer.
This makes it the best performing round cell I’ve tested for moderate to extremely high power applications. I have yet to to test the EVE 40PL and Ampace JP40, cells with very high current ratings, but will be directly comparing them to the Molicel P45B and P50B…”
According to mooch’s test, the jp40 delivered a noticable amount more power at 40 amps than the p50b at 30 amps. The p50b got too hot to complete the 40 amp run, while the jp40 was fine. I think that the jp40 was the right choice. They are also cheaper than the p50b by a good margin.