# [1900k edition is in!] WTS: 1900k-5800k 5mm LED 95+ CRI

50000k corresponds to X,Y of (0.227,0.228) which is not that far from 20000k (0.250,0.250).

Once you slip past 10000k in terms of x-y, it’s seem really easy to slip into 6-digit figures.

I have my theory that the light mixes by averaging the CIE x-y coordinates.

10000k on BBL: 0.280, 0.290
3000k on BBL: 0.431, 0.404

The resulting light will be: 0.358, 0.347
That corresponds to ~4500k and –0.0073 duv

If that works out the way I theorized, then you might want to throw in a few (and only just a few) green LEDs to pull the duv back closer to the BBL.

10000k (DL locus): 0.278, 0.293
3000k on BBL: 0.431, 0.404

The resulting light will be: 0.354, 0.349
That corresponds to ~4600k and –0.0048 duv

Shipping update:

Ulrich - RO247700139TH
EricJ2190 - RO247700142TH
TBone - RR278755013TH

So, the CCT isn’t an exact average of 3000K and 10,000K, but an average of the underlying positional numbers? And those don’t scale linearly? That’s interesting. I really DON’T know much about light and/or color!

CIE coordinate itself is pretty linear.

It’s the CCT that is non-linear. You can look it up and see that the warm white part of the locus takes about 1/3 of the chart’s span. And the BBL locus is curved.

In all honesty, mixing unknown emitters is a bad questionable idea. Of course can be done, but you'll have to deal with a poorly predictable resulting tint and CRI mishmash. One of the most important factors to consider, if setting emitters in parallel, is you won't exactly know how they will share the driving current. This affects the amount of output from each emitter, and therefore CCT, tint and CRI. It will also affect the relative speed at which each emitter will age, and thus CCT, tint and CRI will also change with use.

When actual emitter tests are available you can at least know what to expect, i.e. you can more or less predict the final outcome.

For example, setting a LH351B 3000K CRI90 in parallel with an (MF) LH351C 5000K CRI90 at ≈1.5A would result in a 0.6A/0.9A current share given their Vf curves (planning to give this a shot sometime).

maukka did a measurement of a combination of a 3200K + 5600K Yuji: [Available again! - BLF special edition light] new Sofirn AAA twisty high CRI 5mm LED - #2061 by maukka
See the last measurement.

Nitecore Tube came in yesterday and I put one of these LEDs in, GREAT little light now. On top of the great color/CRI I’m very happy with the output level. these put low and high exactly where I would want them. Easiest 5mm swap I’ve done as well, putting Yujis into a traditional twisty was far more tedious (killed a driver in one).

Thanks for the quick shipping, rngwn!
Mine arrived — plopped one into a Photon Freedom — easiest mod on the planet : )
Nice warm and pleasant LED.

Cool white version is coming

along with a bag of 3400k with the same binning.

Has anyone put one of these in a .....free / just pay shipping Coast light yet ?

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1086

I had one slung by the lanyard on my sliding glass door handle for years but replaced it with a Jacob A60 ..Seemed more a more appropriate backdoor light..

5600K? That will be nice for tint mixing. There are many 12 or 21 or 51 UV led flashlights around where you could change the leds. The 3400K have a great color rendition.

The label says “5800k” but based on given X,Y it computes 5400k-5600k with duv .0014 - .0037

Sure, it is. To be safe replace 1 resistor. https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/ae1lh4/mod_nitecore_tube_emitter_swap_with_a_high_cri/
Mike

Nice.

I haven’t bought any of these yet. But when the cool whites get here, I might get some of each from you.

Where to get them?

I decided to make a light module out of 28 LEDs in parallel. Hooked it up to a lab bench. Without constant current regulation, any initial current above 840ma (30ma per LEDs) will result in a (very gradual) thermal runaway where the module start to pull more and more current and heat up more until it would presumably burn out. On the first try, I initially set the current at 1.4A, and it rose up to almost 1.6A within 10 minutes.

Granted, these LEDs are packed fairly tightly together and thus complicating the thermal problem. I'd say, if you want to run this LED on a long term, you shouldn't be running this at 35ma (per LED) or more without airflow.

With 840ma starting current, the final current stabilized at 900ma.

Received mine in Spain last weekend, thanks rngwn

Got my package last week in Croatia!

What are the chances to get 5600K hi cri?

^Coming later in the day today.