Your Panasonic Sanyo NCR18650GA should work. But compared to 30Q it has no advantage at all down to 3.3V, this is why hunting for cell with more mAh is basically unimportant unless current draw is low, like 1A and such.
So simply those are cells only worth buying for low currents, due to their lower voltage on load they will performance simply weaker in any flashlight, no matter if it is direct driver or regulated buck, etc, as long as the current is 5A and over.
Thanks for all the info, SammysHP, Tom E, and Hikelite! Just what I needed. Order placed.
P.S. I saw the clip discussion which I was actually enjoying but then it's become about Hank needs to make modular lights so we don't have to buy a whole new light, which is going pretty far outside the clip discussion.
Like others said, drop-ins don’t really work with high performance designs like this.
I have thought about working on a design for a highly modular light that might have intermediate performance, and think I have some good ideas, but it would be a different style of light than what Hank produces. It would not be able to maximize lumens for a given light size, due to both thermal constraints and the space that would be needed to enable modularity.
It would also be a bit more expensive, but yes, I think it could appeal a lot to people who don’t have the skills to mod a flashlight.
This is only the case if you’re constantly running the light at that draw though. If spending most of the time at a lower output the higher cap cells definitely catch up.
I agree! by far my favorite clip. How could you adapt it to a flashlight from a screw to a ring of sorts?
Maybe something like this?
First time posting, just wanted to toss a thanks out there for this forum and Hank for making some fantastic lights. I am a proud owner of KR4(SST-20,4000k), and soon to be K1(SBT90.2).
Couple comments/questions; anyone out there with some K1(SBT90.2) beam-shots? I have seen a couple on reddit but not very good quality, though the impressions were that it was the most useful(the guy has W1 white, green, and SBT90.2)
To Hank, are there any plans with the KR1 to run a 21700? It seems like a head that size would go well with a 21700 tube/tail. Also any thoughts of other LED options? Id buy in a heartbeat if you upped the battery to 21700 and tossed in an SBT90.2. It would be a sweet spot between the K1 and KR4 for me. Also following closely with interest over the new clip design.
If you cant tell, I am a bit in love with SBT90.2 ever since I got my hands on an Acebeam K30-GTvn (Acebeam K30GTvn - Medium Size Throw King R - Sky Lumen). I replaced half my light collection with this thing. Vinh is starting to toss 90.2’s in almost every light it seems like, with outstanding performance.
Lastly one constructive critique of this thread; It would be nice if we could have a single thread dedicated to each light. As a new member trying to play catch up and learn, it gets very disorganized every time there is a new light announced, the name of the thread changes and the previous conversation completely derails. At this point, its a mixup of KR4(mostly clips), K1(SBT90.2), now KR1’s and still a sprinkle of previous lights.
Don’t quote me on this but I think this may be Hank attempting to comply with BLF forum rules for marketers/companies:
Welcome to BLF.
I should have my K1 in the next 3 to 5 days. I will post beam shots when I get them.
This thread has several beam shots of mine with different lights containing SBT90[CFT90]
I had the same question about K1 getting lost and to have separate threads.I think anonymous_user answered our question.
Hello !
I received my Noctingon KR4 earlier but I ran into an issue trying to test it. It didn’t light up at the beginning, I had to unscrew and screw several times before the auxiliary leds light up in rainbow mode. But the SST20 did not light up when I pressed the tailcap button. I changed the cell from a flat top to a non-flat top samsung 30Q and it worked for five minutes. After that I wanted to test Anduril’s functions and since then it hasn’t worked at all.
I think there’s something wrong with the connection, maybe with the tailcap button, but I’m not sure.
Is there a way to reset the flashlight to make sure Anduril isn’t blocked? A way to fix the connection problems?
Factory reset with head or tail lockout, hold down the switch which will give intermittent ramping until it flashes.
Thank you
So I tried the way to reset that is wrote on the Anduril diagram on the webpage of D4V2. It didn’t work but I tried tightening the tailcap and getting out of all Anduril’s modes one by one. I managed to get back to normal mode and now it seems to be working.
Then I tried your solution to reset, so I unscrewed, held the button and screwed and and it seems reset, so it’s perfect !
I do have a problem of false contact if I use a flat-top battery as well as other times a bit randomly because I screw it back on. It’s a bit of a shame, I had read in this test ( Review: Noctigon KR4 (18650, 4xE21A 5000K, CRI96) ) that you could use both types… But I’m glad I managed to get it to work and I’m having fun with it.
It sounds like a really nice update to the D1… same size, but the beam is ~3X as throwy and the driver stays regulated at every level.
If it was up to me, I would make it this shape:
This makes it comfortable to carry at the waist, with the clip toward the body. The straight edge and low profile tip prevent it from pushing into skin.
A 2-way design would mean there is an entire extra layer digging into skin, which hurts after a while.
From a streambody shape just becomes an ordinary fat straight flashlight with that straight long clip. So the narrow waist is lost.
Also lot of empty space that really does not add any pressing of the material at all as it is not a straight flashlight, because with a straight flashlight you also have that pressure not only the single point of pressure, so a straight clip presses alongside a straight tube. Of course one could argue against this should the person want to.
Yeah it solves the need of deep carry, but that still does not mean it suits it or it doesn’t add more than it has to add in the tube area.
The clip has to be more elegant rather than be again just looking from another flashlight, criticism against the current clip.
That’s very close to my suggestion.
I’d prefer the light curve. Don’t know if it’s possible to manufacture this cheap enough or if pretension would have the same result.
Hank, any time estimate? I’d like to order the new clip together with the KR1 to save shipping.
Considering the drawing, prototype, and production time, it should take at least 3 months for the new clip to happen.
Hank, any news on those E21a emitters?
It should be available by June.
Will the E21a only be available on the KR4 or will there be a D4 format light with the regulated driver and E21a?
Any plans for E21a in a titanium host?
Well . . . I’ll take this as an uninvited opportunity to add to the mix.
Perfect, 3 months would allow time for the design of crenelated SS bezels as well.
That would also allow time for a new body color and / or material.
I, for one, would be in for another KR4 (or two . . . or three) and clips (straight and two-way) and bezels (crenelated and smooth).