Exactly, anytime I email him with a question, I have an answer that day.
Anytime I reach out to Hank my wallet loses weight…
Edit: Shhhhh! My wife thinks it’s me! 
lol
does D4V2 have low voltage protection?
this cell was used: Vapcell 18350 M11 1100mah 9A - Vapcell batteries and Chargers
it was probably used in normal operation until it got low, and then it sat idle (with aux lights on) for quite some time. a month or more, maybe.
the cell was at 2.3V. is that normal? i have boost driver.
the cell was purchased this year. i did a capacity test on it, and it tested good (skyrc MC3000 charger) — almost as good as new.
do you think the cell is damaged? should i discard it for safety reasons?
edit: apparently since it’s not ICR chem, it is safe to use?
If I recall correctly the auxiliary lights run outside of the low voltage protection, so the auxiliary lights can indeed eventually run a cell lower than recommended. It’s our job to practice proper maintenance.
Most of my lights with auxiliaries are set to display while in active status and be dark in lockout for this very reason.
Love the Emisar lights but not crazy about these colors.
I am sure I am the minority.
I’ve got both single and dual channel linear Hanks as well as one with a switched driver and I believe they all go aux-dark in LVP.
I just took the plunge and ordered an Emisar flashlight yesterday - my first. I was most surprised, when I sent an Email request, to have a response from Hank within about 12hrs. I wish more companies were that good with customer service.
That’s a bug found on single-color-aux firmware versions used by Sofirn & Wurkkos. As far as I’m aware it’s not present on lights with RGB aux LED support like most of Hank’s models. The LVP works great on my Anduril lights with RGB aux and they will shut the aux LED’s off when the cell voltage drops to 2.8V.
Yes D4V2 does have low voltage protection. It should work for the aux LED’s as well. Were the aux LED’s on or off when you decided to check the battery? If they were off, it’s possible the LVP worked as intended but the remaining parasitic drain from the driver was enough to drain the battery further and dip below the 2.5V “safe” threshold. Just a guess.
I just had an interesting idea.
Flashlight bezels machined from 17-4 H900. It’s honestly a pretty bronze-ish looking material and supposedly it is also pretty easy to machine versus other heat treats of 17-4 SS.
In other news, seems the wife wants a D4K but I’m a little worried about it getting really hot, really fast like my D4 does on turbo. Is there a way to make it more… muggle friendly?
Set the thermal limit low, set the maximum high level to a lower value.
Get it with the boost driver for the extra $15 or whatever. The heat is not Hot, sustained output and run time is great. The usual fet driver does get pretty hot, small host. She can turbo repeatedly and it won’t bother her, guaranteed. It scrubs a little off the max lumens but it’s still very bright…actually you could probably even bump up the temp setting in Anduril and she’d still be fine. I got mine with the 4500 519A so it’s not as bright to begin with but it’s great on walks and gets primarily used as a work light where it’s more than enough. SST20 and/or changing the optic will make a quite different light out of it.
Yeah, I was just reading about the boost driver option. I was planning to go with the 4000k SST20 95cri as that is what my modded C8F has so the lights should “match”.
I got the SST20 4000K in my KR4 (fet) and they look really good. He’s got a good bin and the optic cleans everything up nicely.
Well, bugger.
The wife has informed me that she wants her light to have a tail switch and a lanyard. However, she also doesn’t like how big the C8F is…
Does anyone have a group photo of the D4, D4 v2, D4K and D4S ?
.
Edit: I almost forgot about the D4S (v2) - 26800 option. Also, looking at specs… Are the D4v2 head and the D4K head the same?
Can anyone comment on how low the moonlight mode is on the various drivers?
I have a few dual channel 519 (D4k, D4W) and know they are not very low. I’ve not seen a single channel one in a while so don’t know how low the moonlight is. My other anduril lights are low but not crazy low (though the updated firmware on the Wurkkos ts10 and sofirn sp10 PRO are very low).
How low is moonlight in the boost driver vs the dual channel? I think tint ramping is cool but I’m considering thr extended runtimes on the boost driver.
Also, I’ve been enjoying dual tints. What do people think of dual beam profiles in the dual channel lights? 519 and osram? Is it effective and useful having the spot/flood channels in the little quads?
How about domed 519 and dedomed 519 for high cri spot/flood?
The moonlight on my D4V2 is too bright when my eyes are fully dark adapted.
As a technique, I place my index finger over the lens to cover some of the light.
Thanks. What driver and LEDS are you using?
I have the SST-20 4000K and the Nichia 219 with boost drivers.
boost driver (nichia 519a) has no moonlight. not sure if regular driver does either.
lowest brightness is quite bright.
My D4V2 with FET Driver and 4500K 519a has a very nice moonlight. I can look directly at the emitters and they are not bright at all. I have the same light with XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K and its moonlight is just a hair brighter than the 519a’s.