4/11/19 Important UPDATE! Cree XHP50.2 Three Volt!! Convoy C8+ 3000 Lumen

nkresho · 2019-04-06T00:53:04.000Z

s2+ needs some current limiting to be “useful”, IMHO. Way too hot, way too quick. It’s similar to a triple XPL build, fet driven, in the same host.

Not that I say don’t do it, i’m not taking mine apart, but… I promptly put it in the box next to my triple s2+ and triple s6, which never get used.

AlexGT · 2019-04-06T02:51:17.000Z

Nice mod, thanks for sharing, I wonder how would that look on the new FT03…

HONDARIDER · 2019-04-06T03:44:29.000Z

contactcr:

HONDARIDER:

Do you have any other tail switch recommendations that will work for a longer life span? A drop in type.

16mm Complete Reverse Clicky Bypassed Switch --- C8 / S2+ / E2L

If you want a true drop in no soldering required then get the above. It’s basically the same thing but it has a genuine Omten switch (a non-convoy C8 clone may not) and it’s bypassed already so no spring problems.

Do you have a recomendation that requires assembly that would be better?

contactcr · 2019-04-06T03:57:03.000Z

Not really. Myself and other modders use Omten switches bypassed at high current often without much trouble.

cabfrank · 2019-04-06T07:17:00.000Z

I really want one in an Eagle Eye X6 host, but I know it would get very hot.

Lumencraft-Matt · 2019-04-06T15:14:48.000Z

HONDARIDER:

contactcr:

HONDARIDER:

Do you have any other tail switch recommendations that will work for a longer life span? A drop in type.

16mm Complete Reverse Clicky Bypassed Switch --- C8 / S2+ / E2L

If you want a true drop in no soldering required then get the above. It’s basically the same thing but it has a genuine Omten switch (a non-convoy C8 clone may not) and it’s bypassed already so no spring problems.

Do you have a recomendation that requires assembly that would be better?

You can put high current over those switches for a while(not sure if genuine otman es better than factory c8+ or not), and the bypass does help (keeps the spring from loosing is stretch). Most of the time when your running this light it would not be at 13.5 amps, and when it was, only in short bursts. So if your not depending on that light for life or death it might be worth a shot. I don’t know of a better “easy” switch option this small. Making a switch out of a Judco like DellSuperman does for surefire would be the closest thing I can think of. Available: Judco 10 amp Switch for Surefire Z41 tailcaps | Candle Power Flashlight Forum

HONDARIDER · 2019-04-06T15:26:54.000Z

vestureofblood:

HONDARIDER:

contactcr:

HONDARIDER:

Do you have any other tail switch recommendations that will work for a longer life span? A drop in type.

16mm Complete Reverse Clicky Bypassed Switch --- C8 / S2+ / E2L

If you want a true drop in no soldering required then get the above. It’s basically the same thing but it has a genuine Omten switch (a non-convoy C8 clone may not) and it’s bypassed already so no spring problems.

Do you have a recomendation that requires assembly that would be better?

You can put high current over those switches for a while(not sure if genuine otman es better than factory c8+ or not), and the bypass does help (keeps the spring from loosing is stretch). Most of the time when your running this light it would not be at 13.5 amps, and when it was, only in short bursts. So if your not depending on that light for life or death it might be worth a shot. I don’t know of a better “easy” switch option this small. Making a switch out of a Judco like DellSuperman does for surefire would be the closest thing I can think of. Available: Judco 10 amp Switch for Surefire Z41 tailcaps | Candle Power Flashlight Forum

I have some springs from BlueSwordM that I could put on it. May handle the current for a little longer. Your right, I wouldn’t be running this on high too often. So it should be ok.

BlueSwordM · 2019-04-06T15:29:07.000Z

The springs are not the limiting factor here, but the switch.
Even if you were to put dual BeCu springs on the PCB, the

You could try and bypass the switch itself with some 24/22AWG wire, but you would lose selection outside of turning the tailcap.

That’s the only other way, other than building a FET switch.

contactcr · 2019-04-06T15:30:42.000Z

One thing to be careful of when u swap the spring is getting the switch too hot. It will melt if u heat the board too much.

You can desolder the switch before if you want to be extra careful or put metal clips on the switch legs to soak some heat

nquinn · 2019-04-06T16:51:53.000Z

Hmm interesting, I never had must interest in the XHP50 before because it seemed inefficient.

How does this new 3v XHP50.2 compare to say an equivalent XP-L2?

BlueSwordM · 2019-04-06T16:59:10.000Z

It’s basically 4x XP-G3s on a single substrate.

So it’s about equivalent to 2x-3x very high binned XP-L2s.

Seems like they aren’t using very highly binned XP-G3s though.

Seems like it’s the XHP70.2 getting all the good dies.

Lightbringer · 2019-04-06T19:49:04.000Z

Nice, but I so want one of those switches!

CRX · 2019-04-06T20:43:49.000Z

Need to figure a way to make it click on.

nquinn · 2019-04-07T23:32:59.000Z

BlueSwordM:

It’s basically 4x XP-G3s on a single substrate.

So it’s about equivalent to 2x-3x very high binned XP-L2s.

Seems like they aren’t using very highly binned XP-G3s though.

Seems like it’s the XHP70.2 getting all the good dies.

Impressive. What’s the main downside (if any?) compared to the XP-L2 or G2 then? Less efficient?

BlueSwordM · 2019-04-07T23:33:44.000Z

Well:

1. Basically a smaller XP-L2.
2. Compared to the XP-G2, it has less throw/lumen.
3. Tint is disgusting, with a rainbow beam.

LarryLumens · 2019-04-08T01:36:44.000Z

Does anyone know how many lumens the new Convoy C8+ with SST40 is pushing? It is as bright as my Sofirn C8f but flood vs throw can trick the eye.
This one: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32989670019.html?spm=a2g0n.store-products.0.0.5c535f5aYeXLNC

Hugh_Johnson · 2019-04-09T04:54:49.000Z

Impressive. I think my favourite is the 50.2 dome on.

Dougiestyle · 2019-04-09T06:04:33.000Z

nkresho:

s2+ needs some current limiting to be “useful”, IMHO. Way too hot, way too quick. It’s similar to a triple XPL build, fet driven, in the same host.

Not that I say don’t do it, i’m not taking mine apart, but… I promptly put it in the box next to my triple s2+ and triple s6, which never get used.

My EDC is an A6 18350 triple XPL lol. I wasn’t expecting triple the heat of a triple XPL from a single XHP 50.2, though!

I use my flashlights for quick sweeps of less than an acre and looks into small dark spots. With my diagnosed (wife sez so) modumust syndrome, this new affliction, erm, hobby may get me some new foul glances and eye rolls!

Lothar · 2019-04-11T14:04:08.000Z

vestureofblood:

What would you like to see this emitter in?

I would actually want to see the different between a XHP50.2, XPL HI, XPL2, Flat White, all in a GTmini.

Lumencraft-Matt · 2019-04-11T17:45:09.000Z

EDIT: Important update. On 4/5/19 the output and CD (range) testing I did were flawed. The battery in my light meter was very low and I did not catch it until now. This caused the readings I took to be significantly off. After changing the battery in the meter, double checking calibration and retesting the lights I am posting the updated lumen outputs below. I do not have updated CD testing at this time, however because of the meter issue it is likely that those readings were high also. I am unable to change the title or original description in my Ebay Auction listist for the lights, but I added this information to the “edit” section. I greatly apologize for the mistake and any inconvenience this has caused.

Light…………….Mistake Lumens………….Revised Lumens……………………%Out of wack
Factory C8+…………………….998…………………………….818………………………………19.80%
C8+ Mosfet……………………1688……………………………1216………………………………32.50%
50.2 Mosfet……………………3441……………………………2991………………………………11.00%
50.2 Mos dedome……………2943……………………………2581………………………………13.10%

Again I am very sorry for any confusion or trouble this has caused!

Matt