Man, that’s turning out great so far! Very good work!
…Really wishin this could have been mine, however, the wife BOSS only allows me so much for flashlight funds every pay period Sounds cliche, but when she’s bringing home most of the bread, I kinda gotta listen.
I thought about de-doming but decided against it. Breaking an emitter wire last time I tried makes me leery. I've seen some guys just chop the dome off to near the emitter, might even have been you. Does that do the same thing? I could put it in the mill with a fly cutter and get it very damn close to the die.
Remember that the bond wires arc up and over, need to keep a certain amount of the dome for clearance of the wires. I have successfully shaved both an XP-G2 and MT-G2, I find that the tint doesn’t change nearly as much as a full de-dome and it does actually produce a tighter hot spot.
Might pay to carefully center the emitter in relation to your heat sink while the star is still full sized, re-flow solder it together, then simply turn the star down to match your pedestal right on your lathe. A soldered connection between the star and sink will be much better than a bonded connection, even with Arctic Alumina. Or so it seems to me.
I used Arctic Alumina thermal compound for my C8 MT-G2, and it drops 114 lumens in 2 minutes. I reflowed the XP-G2 and XM-L2 and they only drop around 79 lumens in that same 2 minutes. All 3 being on a healthy chunk of copper of course. I’ll be reflowing the MT-G2 to the copper sink once I slice and dice it.
I’m wondering what kind of weight this big sink adds up front on the Mag? Bet it feels awesome in the hand! There are places that I really like lightweight, but I like a substantial feel to a light. This would do it!
Do you only plan to drive it around 6A or will you be taking it further? I have a de-domed XM-L2 U2 1A on far less copper and pulling something in the 8-9A neighborhood, so far so good. I would think this much copper would easily allow that range with very little heat issues.
I was under the impression that 8A was pretty much the max for XM-L2's. I think this one will stay at 6 for now. Hell, I can't get even my MT-G2 direct drive light over 6 amps. (It must be the switch)
I have been thinking on making a heat sink and head combo for Mags to accommodate a larger heat sink for using Rebel Reflectors since they have extra depth. If or when I do this project, I'll drive it as hard as I think I safely can.
the mad modders say push it til the light starts turning blue, then back it off a bit. I was seeing it go blue on aluminum, but it’s good on copper. The light has a large mass in the head, with nice cooling fins. It warms up after a few minutes, but doesn’t get hot.
Last night out at the lake, about the time I was getting the tripod set up, a cop came driving through at the remote boat ramp. There were about 5-7 teenagers out there with skateboards that had already been impressed with the MAXToch, one of the kids thinks it’s brighter than his name brand driving lights on his 4x4. The cop was spotlighting our Ford Escape and the kid urged me to blow off his spotlight with my flashlight. I desisted. The cops out there are known troublemakers and I didn’t want the introduction. lol. But it was sorely tempting…