I’ve seen the new L6-S with a plastic button and with a metal button. I also see a few smaller differences, such as lanyard holes and the number of grooves by the switch.
I’ve also seen a new C8-X. It’s like a C8 head (45mm), but 26650 body, side switch with usb in and out (power bank function). That’s a bit different. The C8-X does not have a rear switch. The X17, L6-S and L5-S do have tail switches.
The last picture is the X17.
Wow, so many choices for a host. The only problem is a lack of information on them.
Here is a comparison of the new L6-S to the slightly older L5-S.
This picture came from a representative of the Supfire store on Aliexpress. She also told be they use the same size driver with the ears that stick out. This would be 26mm and uses a seperate switch with built in LEDs. Perfect for modding.
I still need to find more info on the C8-X and X17. If anyone has info, let me know.
I know my L5-S does and the picture of the X17 and L6-S does. I would guess the C8-X does as well. It’s not that big a deal, to me at least, because you have the mechanical rear switch to lock them out.
Lexel reported that his boost drivers are being delayed by all the flashlights people are sending him to mod. I guess that’s a good problem to have.
Still, I’m waiting patiently for those drivers. I think I’m gonna order the X17 and run it at 6v and 6A and put in an xhp50.2 that I have laying around. That should do maybe 4,000 lumen. If it’s not enough, I’ll buy a xhp70.2 and maybe get 5,000 lumen. All with sweet, sweet NarsilM v1.2 goodness. Lol
Yes, I built one up with FET driver and xhp70. Look at my signiture in my post, there is a link to it.
I like the L5-S, but it’s pretty hard to take apart. Everything is very tight on it.
The 2 things I don’t like are having to use 2 batteries and having the output drop as voltage drops. So I’m thinking of building a new one which should correct both issues.
I was just about to buy another L5-S when I saw these new models. Now I’m’m thinking about trying a new host. The knurling IS nice on it, but the 3 slots on the end cap are kinda annoying. Supfire should make it smooth with no notches. Anyway, that’s my only complaints about it which aren’t that big a deal.
Just keep in mind that the threaded LED shelf is very thin so it doesn’t absorb a lot of heat very well. I’m thinking about milling a copper chunk I could press into the threaded hole. That would really help with the heat, but it’s not an easy thing to fabricate.
I assumed it would use a C8 reflector. It has the same diameter as the Convoy C8 reflector, but is about 5mm to 6mm deeper.
Here it is compared to the Supfire L5-S.
The X17 can accept a 26mm driver just like the L5-S. Plenty of room for a boost driver.
It has a threaded in “pill” like the L5-S which is very thin. I have a plan to beef it up. I can buy a true C8 reflector from MTN Electronics and use that extra 5mm to 6mm to make a thicker pill. Maybe machined from copper.
Here is a pic of the pill from my L5-S. It looks the same as what is in the X17.
A head size comparison. It’s got the same great side button used on the L5-S that has 2 leds built in.
I only had one real issue. The machining on the tail cap had some sharp edges that needed filing.
I used a basic hand file to smooth the edges.
I then used a black Sharpe pen to try and hide the bare aluminum. It worked pretty decently.
The driver retaining ring was pretty tight, but I got it loose. The bezel holding the glass lens in was actually very easy to loosen. The bezel on my L5-S was super tight and I damaged it trying to get it loose. The threaded pill is also tight. I haven’t broken it loose yet. I may need to make a tool to loosen it.
Yes. It still seems to get the heat out, though. My L5-S is running an xhp70 at 7.8A and I haven’t burned it up yet. I usually only use turbo for short bursts under 10-20 seconds. I’ve run it at Turbo for about 60 seconds with fresh cells just to set the thermal stepdown and it survived.
I want to beef up the pill on this build. I was thinking of soldering a few copper pennies under the stock pill. Or I might be able to get a copper disc about 4 or 5 millimeters thick and a little bigger than the threads in the head and just tap it in until it bottoms out destroying the threads in the process, but giving really good thermal contact.
Maybe press a copper disc into the factory pill then thread it in tightly? The shorter reflector should give me the extra room I need.