A L-style shape chest and table lamp from Jaxman named E1

TexasToasted · 2019-10-21T16:52:28.000Z

f0xx:

From the listing, driver is 17mm and on page 1 it looks like the switch cavity is 4.5mm (not 100% sure on the switch cavity measurement… could be talking about the hole for the wires.)

EDIT: Sent a message via Aliexpress about the switch PCB cavity. 4.5mm seems too small, so I’m not sure what that measurement is describing.

4.5mm is the thickness of the aluminum under the LED MCPCB. They call it the thermal bridge. It’s detailed on one of the images on their website.

jaxman · 2019-10-25T11:35:12.000Z

hi the key switch PCB is 10mm*2mm .
so if your pcb is 10mm, it will be ok.
we have prepared the key switch for all host buyers. you can use the key.

Rgs

MochaJoey · 2019-10-25T15:40:12.000Z

Interested in a TIR for a bike light.

TexasToasted · 2019-10-26T00:47:46.000Z

Just got my E1. Here are a few things I noticed.
The magnet is pretty good, it easily holds the weight of the light with battery installed.
When the primary LEDs are off, the rubber cover on the pushbutton glows with a fairly bright, cold white from 4 mini LEDs. It does make a pretty good moon mode, but I wish it had a warmer tint. The trim ring on my light is not glued, so I may just see about replacing thos LEDs with something warmer.
When the primary LEDs are on, the pushbutton glows orange. That orange led can still be seen through the primary optic when the primary LEDs are off, so that orange led is always lit whether the light is on or off. There’s no mention in the instructions about the orange light.
I have not disassembled the light, but build quality looks good.
UI is easy to use and uncomplicated, but the modes all seem too close together. Low needs to be lower and the difference between high and turbo is barely visible.
I like the idea of using the switch lighting as a moon mode. I hope to see this on more lights.

bts · 2019-11-09T14:51:14.000Z

TexasToasted:

Just got my E1. Here are a few things I noticed.
The magnet is pretty good, it easily holds the weight of the light with battery installed.
When the primary LEDs are off, the rubber cover on the pushbutton glows with a fairly bright, cold white from 4 mini LEDs. It does make a pretty good moon mode, but I wish it had a warmer tint. The trim ring on my light is not glued, so I may just see about replacing thos LEDs with something warmer.
When the primary LEDs are on, the pushbutton glows orange. That orange led can still be seen through the primary optic when the primary LEDs are off, so that orange led is always lit whether the light is on or off. There’s no mention in the instructions about the orange light.
I have not disassembled the light, but build quality looks good.
UI is easy to use and uncomplicated, but the modes all seem too close together. Low needs to be lower and the difference between high and turbo is barely visible.
I like the idea of using the switch lighting as a moon mode. I hope to see this on more lights.

Am considering this light, it is worth buying? How bright is the pushbutton glow? Approx 3lumens? So you hv direct access to moon, turbo and current mode right?
I hv a spare headlamp strap, so can be used as a headlamp.

TexasToasted · 2019-11-09T15:18:02.000Z

The pushbutton LEDs are moon mode. The main LED has low, medium, high, & turbo. When the main Led is off, the puhbutton LEDs are on. The only way to turn off all light is to unscrew the tailcap slightly. I like this design, I just want more range between low and turbo on the main LED and a warmer LED tint on the pushbutton LEDs.

icpart · 2019-11-09T15:33:11.000Z

Hi Jaxman. For E1 host is there sold separately the triple MPCB with Nichia LED for that flashlight on your store?

Chinaheart · 2019-11-09T15:40:03.000Z

I also like nichia triple LED

aswang · 2019-11-18T08:33:56.000Z

Got my hosts. The triple has 2700K SST 20s FET+AMC driver at the moment (the one with the 18350 tube) while the OP one is still bare. They’re very well made but quite chunky. Makes me appreciate how small my H03 shorty is. But I assume they’re way better for heat dissipation, especially for the triple.

icpart · 2019-11-18T10:55:56.000Z

aswang:

Got my hosts. The triple has 2700K SST 20s FET+AMC driver at the moment (the one with the 18350 tube) while the OP one is still bare. They’re very well made but quite chunky. Makes me appreciate how small my H03 shorty is. But I assume they’re way better for heat dissipation, especially for the triple.

Hi awang,
What driver and MPCB are you oder for Jaxman E1 host. It is from their Aliexpress store or you are used something else? Also what type of 18350 tube are you used for H03 and that Jaxman.

aswang · 2019-11-20T04:49:16.000Z

icpart:

Hi awang,
What driver and MPCB are you oder for Jaxman E1 host. It is from their Aliexpress store or you are used something else? Also what type of 18350 tube are you used for H03 and that Jaxman.

Although I did order driver from Jaxman, I don’t like the mode spacing so I used FET + AMC driver (with Anduril) from Lexel. It has a 20mm driver at the moment which works but the tube will not screw all the way in since the driver won’t fit where it’s supposed to. It’s better if you use 17mm driver, it has a retaining ring for that size driver. There are a bunch of 17mm e switch drivers other than Jaxman’s that I know of like Qlite momentary or FET 1 from Mountain Electronics or FET AMC from Lexel here in BLF. Jaxman also did not send the switch with my order (not sure why since the description says they send the switch with the driver) but I did have an extra switch lying around that I used. Maybe you should make sure with Jaxman.

For the triple I tried with kaidomain and noctigon triple mcpcb and they’re a little bit too large. You can always trim them down using sandpaper or such to fit. The triple mcpcb from Jaxman (I took from E2l) fits perfectly. For the OP type any 16mm mcpcb should fit. The 18350 and 18500 tubes for the E1 are available from Jaxman. For the skilhunt H03 the 18350 tube for the A6 which I bought here a while ago fits perfectly. I just needed to put some thin o-rings for waterproofing.

aswang · 2019-11-22T08:28:07.000Z

Decided to put mix 3000, 4000 and 5000K LH351Ds 90CRI in my triple E1. Tint way better and rosier than my greenish 4000Ks by themselves. Might be my favorite triple mix so far in terms of output and tint. I’m getting ~2700 lumens turbo at turn on and ~2200 lumens @30 secs with FET+AMC driver, 22AWG wires and tail spring bypass using a full 30Q.

1stein · 2019-11-22T10:39:04.000Z

aswang:

Decided to put mix 3000, 4000 and 5000K LH351Ds 90CRI in my triple E1. Tint way better and rosier than my greenish 4000Ks by themselves. Might be my favorite triple mix so far in terms of output and tint. I’m getting ~2700 lumens turbo at turn on and ~2200 lumens @30 secs with FET+AMC driver, 22AWG wires and tail spring bypass using a full 30Q.

Great mod. I have also Lexel driver on the way, but constant power, no FET.
Any hints or clues on how to deal with this host? Was there anything challenging during your mod?

aginthelaw · 2019-11-22T12:08:20.000Z

If you have a rolex milgauss you don’t have to worry about the tail magnet

aswang · 2019-11-23T04:47:50.000Z

1stein:

Great mod. I have also Lexel driver on the way, but constant power, no FET.
Any hints or clues on how to deal with this host? Was there anything challenging during your mod?

Its one of the easiest builds I’ve done. If you have the right sized driver and mcpcb it’s a breeze. The only challenge for my clumsy hands was getting the led wires through the hole of the host and mcpcb. It also gets a significant boost with a tail spring bypass (from 1800 to 2700 lumens if I remember correctly). So its worth the extra effort.

jf_smm · 2019-11-23T05:20:47.000Z

lumenzilla:

KawiBoy1428:

The pocket clip on this design/style of lights is one of the most important parts/details and yet you have a crummy snap on clip?

How about a ring clip secured between the head/battery tube/tail cap/battery tube…

I second this.
If the clip is secured, I’d buy without hesitation

There are advantages to having a clip that spins all the way around the light though. I use my ZL H600 hands free by sliding it into my shirt or jacket between the buttons. Then you can orient the light where you need it without bringing the head strap everywhere.

I’ve also used it as a work light under a car by laying the light on its side and rotating the clip until the light rests on it. It worked really well in a tight space where a regular “worklight” would have been in my way.

Maybe a beefier clip would be good but a fixed clip rules out a few handy tricks.

1stein · 2019-11-23T05:29:35.000Z

aswang:

1stein:

Great mod. I have also Lexel driver on the way, but constant power, no FET.
Any hints or clues on how to deal with this host? Was there anything challenging during your mod?

Its one of the easiest builds I’ve done. If you have the right sized driver and mcpcb it’s a breeze. The only challenge for my clumsy hands was getting the led wires through the hole of the host and mcpcb. It also gets a significant boost with a tail spring bypass (from 1800 to 2700 lumens if I remember correctly). So its worth the extra effort.

Thank you

aswang · 2019-12-02T06:16:58.000Z

E1 Lego madness.

Jaxhunt E1 and shorty.

Skilhunt H03 tube fits but does not make contact so I added some copper wire a la first gen E07/PL47 to make it work. Deanodizing the threads of the H03 tube should work since threads of E1 head are deanodized and have contact with the driver. Using a larger driver so that it sits higher on the E1 head could also work (might do this on my later E1 build to complement my shorty H03). Could be useful to slim down E1 or a H03/E1 kit. Not so pretty though. Jaxman E1 tube does not fit H03 head.

Jaxman E1 head, convoy s2 shorty tube, sofirn sf32 tail cap/switch

Works out of the box. I ran out of convoy S2s and I only have a shorty tube left but regular s2 tube and tailcap should also work. With the driver I use, the tailswitch is pretty useless and only for physical lockout. With the right firmware this could work as a proper double switch angle-light (weird ergonomics and ugly though). You can also just ignore the e-switch and put a clicky driver if you really really want a clicky headlamp. Or if anybody know of a low profile no switch tailcap that fits convoy s2 please do share. This could work for the Skilhunt H03 too although the o-rings are partly exposed.

Chinaheart · 2019-12-02T14:06:10.000Z

Im Interested

LEDicrous · 2020-02-29T06:03:55.000Z

The Jaxman E1 with Nichia LEDs is awesome. But why 3 LEDs for Nichia but only one for CREE XML2? Would that means the 3 LEDs version would drain the battery 3 times faster?