A really, really easy 10 minute 18V power tool flashlight mod.

Good to hear! :THUMBS-UP:

As far as run time, you should see a great improvement. I measured 0.8A draw on my original incandescent bulb and you are drawing probably 0.25A with a fully charged 18V pack. That draw will go up as the pack runs down, but I would think you could expect at least twice the run time, even with the great improvement in light output.

That will be great if this simple mod yields increased runtime, too! I took my light outside this evening and did a comparison with my brothers identical but un-modded light. We both agree the improvement in output and the brighter/whiter tint of light is amazing and he can't wait until I mod his.

Thanks again, Dave!

So, gave my newly modded Ryobi FL1800 Worklight a workout last night. Was installing a pair of Nilight 18w 4" Flood Lights purchased from Amazon on my Chevrolet Silverado Pickup as auxiliary back-up lights. Had the Ryobi running continuously for over half an hour and it never even got warm. Can't thank dchomak enough for creating this thread!

Hey, thanks for the thanks :slight_smile:
How about some pictures?
Wow, I just looked up your light from your posted model #. You have the newer updated light. I was assuming you had the older model as I.
That’s a nice looking light!

Hi guys, thanks for this idea dchomak, I did it but I guess I need a driver? To reduce the power to 12v, cause I just checked the led board on my light while on, is showing 17.59v. and that is with the big lithium from Ryobi. I've used the light so far for like 2 hours total time but the battery is still at 3 bars out of 4. This is my light: Sylvania ULTRA LED 9MR16-830-FL35 Flood 12V Replaces 50W MR16 lamps (74042). Awesome light, I can find my cat easily in the neighborhood now. Where can I get what is needed? Or should I change to a different bulb? just an idea! anybody though of adding a dimmer to the flashlight?

Solder looks ok, then hot glue around the wires just in case they separate

Drill holes for zip ties

Trigger wants to fly off

After a straight hour of use the plastic over the led fell

You can tell the tabs melted inward as illustrated by the cat

With the plastic cover

Without it

ok so my led bulb is 700 lumens, 9 watts, 12v. it already has a driver that does not reduce the power to the led board. looking at the fasttech website and cross referencing with ebay, can i get this: item http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/262620728267?

and put it between the switch and the mr16 as is or would that be a no no.

I got a few MR16 bulbs from the clearance rack at HD a while back with the intent of doing this mod, when I apply a DC voltage to the terminals, the light turns on, and then goes out slowly. How did you open the bulb up to get at the driver DCHOMAK?

Clever use of MR16 ! 8^)

To be able to run a “12V” MR16 bulb on an 18V (21V) battery, the MR16 bulb should be non-dimmable.
Non dimmable means it will have a constant current driver in it so that when it is over volted the same amount of current will flow through the LED’s
If you don’t know whether your MR16 has a constant current driver, you can check by measuring the input current to the bulb at 12V vs 18V. A constant current driver (non dimmable) will draw less input current at 18V and more current at 12V

So, the Echosmart 6w/35w I used from Home Depot died. Haven't tried looking at HD or Lowes for a replacement - any recommendations?

What is the max depth that will fit in the Ryobi housing? There are some 12w and 15w mr16 on ebay, but the are quite long

I lave an older Milwaukee 12V incandescent light that’s a candidate fore the LED swap… just haven’t had the time…

Hm, I have a 14.4v Ryobi FL1400 incandescent light. Guess I better try this.

Nice, it is surprising how this bulb fit your torch so well!