A1 wowtac xhp70.2???

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T03:06:41.000Z

Hi. I’m new here don’t know to much about led or modding I have an extra wowtac a1 that I would like to put a upgraded emitter in, I was looking at the efficiency of the xhp70.2 and wondered if it would be a good upgrade for the light, such as wider hotspot, or incease in lumens, I will not be messing with drivers, and also the star seems to be on there pretty tight idk what it would take to pull it off, or should I solder the emitter on the star?

BlueSwordM · 2018-06-08T03:16:25.000Z

It would not work.

Not only is the emitter much larger than the stock emitter of the Wowtac A1(XHP 70.2 is much bigger than an XP G2), but the XHP 70.2 is a 6V LED, while the XP G2 is a 3V LED. You would need a new driver.

The only mod you could be able to do is put in a Nichia 219C, or an XPL HI for a bit more lumens and better color reproduction.

toddcshoe · 2018-06-08T03:17:45.000Z

I had a A1. Never could get the thing apart. I think you will surely need a new driver for that xhp70.2. I am no modding expert but I think the operating voltage on that emitter is 6 to 12 volts or something like that. I am sure someone will chime in with much better info than I am capable of giving. Sounds like fun though.

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T03:23:28.000Z

Actually I did read about the 6v but I guess I wasn’t paying attention, and I didn’t know about the diff sizes, apparently the driver is glued in and a pain to get out. This is good info thanks

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T03:26:12.000Z

If u mean getting the head off the light, I had to put some grunt into it but it did finally come off,

BlueSwordM · 2018-06-08T03:35:49.000Z

Then, you can replace it with this emitter:

mtnelectronics.com

Nichia 219C D240 on 16mm MTN DTP CU MCPCB - 90+ CRI 4000K

You will get much better color reproduction, and a bit more brightness, along with more slightly more runtime.

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T03:43:33.000Z

bluesword-then that’s what I’ll do, I’ll order it and give it a shot, I would still like to make a 70.2 work in an EDC but I think that would be better off in a convoy, which I will try someday, thanks for the help

Lightbringer · 2018-06-08T04:01:58.000Z

LumenDisaster:

bluesword-then that’s what I’ll do, I’ll order it and give it a shot, I would still like to make a 70.2 work in an EDC but I think that would be better off in a convoy, which I will try someday, thanks for the help

Wellp, you can take an 18650 light, drill out the reflector-hole to fit the ’70, swap in a buck driver, then use two 18350s to power it.

A bit of overkill, but if you have to have a ’70, hey, go crazy.

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T04:08:26.000Z

Lightbringer- that’s exactly what I was thinking, it would probably mess up the beam spread, or use a zoomie, it would be a fun project

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T04:30:29.000Z

Well now that I’ve done more research on the 70 I now understand the ridiculousness of having a 70 in an EDC, but I’ll still try it out to see if it can be done maybe with 2 cr123 and a driver

Virisenox · 2018-06-08T04:40:57.000Z

toddcshoe:

I had a A1. Never could get the thing apart.

ThruNite uses thread locker on their lights. A heat gun, a set of strap wrenches, or a combination of the two will be able to disassemble the light.

BlueSwordM · 2018-06-08T04:41:58.000Z

Noooo.

What you want is this:
http://kaidomain.com/p/S026927.KDLITKER-C8_2-Cree-XHP50_2-White-6500K-2600-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black

Then swap it out with this monster while drilling the center of the reflector a bit:

http://kaidomain.com/p/S027211.Cree-XHP70_2-Neutral-White-4000K-LED-Emitter-with-20mm-x-1_5mm-DTP-Copper-MCPCB-6V

Stock, with the XHP70.2, since it is more efficient than the XHP50.2, instead of getting 2000 tested lumens, you will be getting 2800 lumens already!

Now, you can even modifiy the driver to put out even more current by replacing a single resistor!

See this thread for more info:

Buck and Boost Drivers, Testing, Modding, and Discussion (Pic Heavy) Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts

This post is intended for me to document all of the modding and testing I have been doing on various buck and boost drivers I have been playing with lately. For now I am only posting the raw data and some comments on the Kaidomain boost drivers, I will update the OP with more as results come in and I get time. Kaidomain H1-A 20mm “6V” Boost Driver This driver is intended to run an XHP50.2 at approximately 3A output. It is moddable to triple emitter voltages by changing resistor R1 to a higher …

By pushing to a max output of 4A, or even 4.5A at 6V, you could be pushing almost 4000 lumens!

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T04:43:20.000Z

Virisenox- I didn’t have to heat it up but it was definitely not easy to twist off, but I could see some of the glue was not dried yet

Virisenox · 2018-06-08T04:46:57.000Z

LumenDisaster:

Well now that I’ve done more research on the 70 I now understand the ridiculousness of having a 70 in an EDC, but I’ll still try it out to see if it can be done maybe with 2 cr123 and a driver

Probably not, but you could definitely do it with two 18350s (Keeppower 1200mAh 18350s are the best on the market at the moment, but they don’t come in button top, so you’ll need to add a solder blob or something) or 16340s and a buck driver like this one. It’s been done before.

LumenDisaster · 2018-06-08T04:48:35.000Z

Bluesword- that’s awesome, then I guess if I go that route I won’t be messing with drivers that I know nothing about

Virisenox · 2018-06-08T04:58:57.000Z

BlueSwordM:

What you want is this:
http://kaidomain.com/p/S026927.KDLITKER-C8_2-Cree-XHP50_2-White-6500K-2600-Lumens-5-Mode-LED-Flashlight-Black

Solid idea! How sure are you that the Kaidomain C8 is using a 6V XHP50?

BlueSwordM · 2018-06-08T05:01:29.000Z

Because it has been measured from the driver to output at 6V.

Also, all XHP emitters are stock, 6V.

You need a special board to put the dies in a 4S configuration to get 12V, so, most of the time, OEMs use 6V XHP emitters instead of 12V.

Or just measure the output voltage of the light to check.