Accidental reset in Anduril2 when the battery voltage is low

Anduril 2 lights reset very easily when the battery voltage is low.

One way of resetting Aundril2 lights is to hold the switch while tightening the head.

How it is designed:
The light will flicker and ramp up for a couple of seconds until it maxes out, then the light resets. If I let go of the switch before maxing out, the reset process is aborted.

However, when the voltage is low (below 3.5v), the light resets before the flicker reaches its maximum, making the reset process way easier than it was designed to be. If I press and hold the switch for about 2 seconds, my light resets. This behavior is especially problematic on tail switch Anduril lights such as KR4 or TS10. If I loosen the head, the light does not work properly but the switch is still active. So, if I press and hold the switch when the head is loose, then the reset process begins.

I usually lock out my lights by twisting the head. On side switch lights, I can accidentally press the switch while tightening the head and accidentally reset my lights. On tail switch lights, tail switch can be depressed during mechanical lockout (by twisting the head) and reset my lights. Having a battery voltage above 3.7v seems to avoid this reset problem. However, it would be great if this issue could be resolved in future revisions.

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Physical lockout is incomplete with the TS10. Because of the double body tube design, only the Aux are disconnected when the head is loosened. But the outer body tube threads are not anodised, so they still make contact with the head.

Loosening the head does not disable the tail switch. The light can be factory reset unintentionally, by pressing the tailswitch button. This is why I recommend against physical lockout for the TS10.

If the goal is to turn off the Aux, instead of unscrewing the head, suggest you use Anduril lockout, and set Aux to off when locked, and On when unlocked.

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In E-switch lights with an inner tube when partially unscrewed during lockout, the outer tube maintains connection (it is not anodized). Only the inner tube is disconnected.

In the FW3A and FWAA, main current (which powers the driver) goes through the outer tube. The inner tube is used only for the switch. This means you can lockout an FW3A or FWAA just fine. It’s not a true lockout as the driver still has power and parasitic drain, but other than that it acts like one as it disables the switch.

In the TS10, Wurrkos reversed the tubes. The inner tube is used for main power while the outer tube is used only for the switch.

Anduril 2 is programmed so that you can reset the driver to default if the e-switch has power while main power is disconnected. The small amount of current flowing through the e-switch is enough to power the driver and it can recognize that main power is disconnected.

This is what is happens when you try to lockout the TS10: main power is disconnected due to lockout, but current can still flow through the switch to power the driver’s reset programming when the button is depressed. The driver thinks you are trying to reset and does so.

The solution is to only use electronic lockout with the TS10. Or someone could modify a version of Anduril 2 specifically for the TS10, to remove this reset option so that physical lockout works.

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My main concern is not the method of resetting but rather the flawed reset process when the battery levels are low.

However, as per your suggestion, it would be nice if the reset process is set up differently for tail switch lights. Additionally, it would be beneficial if the time period during which a user has to hold the switch to complete the reset could be extended so accidental resetting is avoided.

I like to mechanically lock out by twisting the head instead of electronic lockout. It has two advantages: first, it is easier and quicker than pressing the button four times, and secondly, doing so will eliminate the parasitic drain to zero (not in FW3A, but it will for TS10, KR4, and all side-switch lights).