Adding a dedicated "turbo" switch

I’d like to add a tailcap switch to my side switch flashlight and use the side switch for temporary DD while still in whatever mode the tailcap switch dictates. The side switch could be press for on, release for off to prevent accidental overheating and eliminate having to fiddle with cycling thru the modes to return to the one you were in. Would the higher voltage at the LED feed back and screw up the driver since there’s no reason for a driver to have that kinda protection normally?

Depends on the driver you use.

Such linear drivers like the 7135 can be easily bypassed by a (mechanical or electronic) switch.
If you want to use a more complicated driver, especially a switching one, things might be a little more complicated.

In the ‘drawing’?
No, Battery - would be where the ground symbol (the little triangle) is.

I was more concerned about the processor.

The processor will never notice (or care) in this scenario.
But the whole driver including power stage as well as processor etc have to be considered.
If you install a switcht on the wrong place of a switching mode driver and make it blow up, it doesn’t matter if the processor survives it, right? :slight_smile:
But in the end it depends on the actual driver circuit you want to use where and how easily such a bypass switch can be used. Do you have concrete plans what to use?

Single Li-Ion, XM-L2 and a Qlite or Nanjg. For simplicity, I like to stick with what’s mainstream.

DIODE (Big black triangle with line) + LIGHT (two black arrows) = LED (light emitting diode)

As for the Nanjg 105 and similar you can just bypass the 7135 chips with a switch between the negative LED wire and ground.
The processor will never know and also will not be harmed
Great idea btw! That will be a really nice feature! :slight_smile:

@ Horst
Selber Kartoffel! :stuck_out_tongue:
If you use a German stereotype with me, please use bread!
Potatos are nice, but bread ist just plain awesome! :party:

If I find a tailcap that’ll screw right on, yes, but if I must bore the stock one, it’ll have to wait as I have more important stuff that has to get done. Should be an easy mod now that I know nothing special needs to be done for the driver :slight_smile: . Thanks Dave!

This is what I have but there are many that are similar but with different machining to the exterior:

Keep in mind that both switches have to be rated for high enough current to not make significant ressistance while bypassing the driver.And you also won’t be able to use momentary switch without turning on the tail clickie first.

good point. if you have spare space you can take a wire from the - spring to the side switch, bit there is normally no such space, and youll have to think of a manner to let it open the tail cap (unless you plan to have a single use light, with no batt changes)

So where would be the difference but making it even harder, with momentary on the tailcap making contact between the light body and the battery? Think again.

And your initial point was?

Not unless you want single switch turbo mode action :wink: Think again!

I told you need the wire just in case you wanted to have a stand-alone turbo mode, i mean, not needing to have the light already on
EDIT: if you dont need this, obviously no wires are needed

its a side clicky now, but after the mod it will be a tail clicky, so no batt- in the body unless you switch it on
(i am not sure to be properly understanding you, so sorry if i am messing this)

Yeah, usually that would be the case.
If one really wanted one could find a different solution I am sure, but we don’t know what exactly the OP plans to do so I guess it’s fair to assume the ‘normal’ way. :slight_smile:

The tail switch would have to be on. That way, it can’t come on accidentally if haphazardly packed away which is what I want.

Isn’t the positive always connected directly to the LED?

Edit: Just checked and it is. So, no problem.

Yes, no problem at all if that’s the way you want it. It’s a very good idea, I think I’ll apply it to some future mod
Edit:did you find a suitable temporary switch that can handle the current? (I need around 5 amps)

It’ll be good for quickly blinding an attacker when it’s on but you loose the element of surprise if you’re trying to hide.

I’ll probably take the switch apart and see if I can make it work the way I want. If necessary, the issue of resistance can addressed at that time. I have no experience which this particular one but I’ve repaired enough switches that I’m confident I can make it better. Some bench testing needs to done on both switches to be sure.