Advice on today’s “best” charger.

“… I would say the biggest challenge I’m having right now is finding a charger that has both AC input (or at least comes with a power block), and has a dedicated storage mode… ”

I like AC input too, which was why I bought the New I2 and D2 Nitecores. They worked well. For flexibility, I have two others on fast USB chargers the XTAR PB2S and Nitecore UMS4. But for AC input, you might want to take a look at the New Nitecore I2, D2 or their 4-slot equivalents New I4 and D4. I’m not sure if either has storage mode. Good luck!

New I2 on Left, D2 on Right

If you allow me to ask a quick question in your thread - does anybody know of a charger (1-bay preferred) that can show battery voltage without being connected to electricity? I know about the Opus but the common reviews show bad build quality.

Sucked it up and bought this one from amazon a minute ago. Arrives tomorrow. Gotta love prime!

I wanted the VCS4 PLUS, newer, probes, ps included. I’ve got enough ps blocks hanging around I may be able to dedicate one…? But storage made easy and price made this an easy choice. Yup, I paid a small premium to amazon, oh well, it’ll be here in 24 hours or less.

Thanks.

Let’s not close this thread though… additional thoughts are welcome as I know this is a huge topic, and I’ll probably opt for an ultimate charger soon enough.

Remember 1984, read a mag, call to order, arrive 3 weeks later at a premium of $20 to ship? Lol

Oh, and this is to supplement my Nitecore D4 ….

New thought. How can we petition the various above charger makers to quickly put a storage function into some of the mentioned chargers? Or, can anyone here write some firmware to do do? Wouldn’t that be so great?

Poll, is there a market for storage needs? Am I one of the few who find this important?

We are working on one:

Highly aware, referenced in here, and have been recently actively contributing to the dialogue. I don’t see it happening for a LONG time having done lots of product development…

But thanks for the input.

Any thoughts on the topic replies to… simply add a store mode to any one of the mentioned EXISTING platforms?

It seems to be a not often implemented feature, yet for myself, and I’d assume anyone with a lot of cells, seems to be a key to preventative maintenance.

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I’ve flown RC planes / Drones for 10+ years, when I 1st started none of the chargers had storage mode and it wasn’t something that was even discussed.
I’d just bought about £380 of new batteries and then cosntantly bad weather broke my addiction for flying and had a 2 year break leaving all my new batteries fully charged …… When I came to start again 2 years later they were all totally destroyed.

Now virtually every RC battery charger has storage mode (along with cycle for mah capacity, IR, and any charge rate you want) the DJI drones have “smart” batteries that you set them up / choose the interval that if you don’t use them for your chosen period of time i.e. 3/4 days they automatically discharge to storage.

Give it a few more years and “household” battery chargers will probably catch up (although they have been slow to offer comparible functionality), the alternative if you really want everything is buy a decent RC charger (some have 4 charging ports) and cradles for the betteries you want but it’d be a pain in the ass if you use lots of different battery sizes and regularly switch between them.

I have just ordered some cradles for 18650’s to use with mine for testing etc. but it is less hassle to have a charger that “more easily” charges different size batteries.

it will charge & terminate as normal , the capacity option is just another safety feature if you decide to use

it ,i set the capacity higher than the cells capacity to make sure it doesn’t terminate early.

I feel your pain!

Hence my paranoia about properly storing batteries! I’ve lost a few 6S 8000 mAhr packs or similar and at $150 a pop you get real sensitive to proper LiPo storage.

For these cylinders, I really don’t want the time and expense of specifying, sourcing, building the setup to my Hyperion chargers. I’m really looking for that press and go, easy, cost effective, can leave on office shelf kinda black box that works. I say this and my head once again turns to the SkyRC and “love the rich feature set”.

As you mentioned, the Opus BT-C100 does it (as long as the battery inserted in the unpowered BT-C100 slot is still at least 3.0-volts or higher).

The Nitecore F1 charger also “blinks” out the battery voltage while unpowered and a battery is inserted in the slot — it blinks x.y volts (ie. it rounds (up or down?) to the nearest tenth of a volt, then blinks out the voltage), but the F1 is just a basic charger.

Hi again hkj…. so I’ve read and reread your 3100 v2.1 review… Review of Charger Opus BT-C3100 V2.1

1. You say “The conclusion must be that it is a good battery analyzer, but for normal charging I will still prefer a charger with non-pulsing CC/CV charging.”

Do you have a recommendation for a non-PWM charger?

2. You also talk about using your own ps. I’m assuming a quality hobby $150 ps of sorts, maybe a reclaimed server supply? What are your thoughts on the “included” ps with the 3100 v2.1?

Thanks… the research continues…. while I have 2 18650’s “Grading” on the XTar vc4S…

There a many, only typical candidate is the LiitoKala 500, but also check the Vapcell I recently reviewed.

That was mostly due to the high peak currents, any supply with the same volt rating and higher current rating would basically be better.
The review is fairly old and they may not supply the same PS any more.
Generally these power supplies has a limited lifespan that is very temperature depend, i.e. if it is hot the lifespan will be short (This may still be a year or two).

Timely thread wishiwereaskibum. I joined to take part in the BLF Charger build thread but I see that as of yesterday, the project has taken a bit of a turn. Now, like you, I’m back on the quest for the ultimate charger.

After doing a ton of reading (HKJ reviews :smiley: ), I think I’ve narrowed it down to getting 2 chargers: the Opus 3100 for testing, handling 4.35V cells plus storage (3.7V) and then the Zanflare C4 for everyday charging (look Ma, no fan!). That’s 8 bays and still cheaper than the SkyRC. Speaking of the MC3000, personally it’s just too expensive in light of its issues. It’s certainly the most capable single charger but I’m put off by the build quality issues, the awful dot-matrix LCD, chintzy buttons and undercooked software/app. For a charger that is now $130 on Amazon, there really shouldn’t be these lingering issues, especially after 5 years on the market.

Regarding the MC3000, I can offer an opinion on a unit recently purchased. I think the build quality issues have been addressed, and the display doesn’t look awful at all. I haven’t heard of a lot of problems with the function of the buttons. And my new unit looks and feels solid.

Just a quick note to HJK, thank you for the Xtar VC4S suggestion. I saw that perhaps it’s not the best with Nimh, but I have a Panasonic for those. Bought one off Aliexpress. My view is that XTAR makes quality product would be an excellent partner to approach in light of the fact that the other Mfg bailed on the BLF charger build.

Apparently they changed the plastic posts that retain the slide rail springs but looking at pics of both, I can’t see a whole lot of difference. Unfortunately, when the posts do break, they can cause a short to occur with some of the components that border the rails. The second version also apparently has very stiff, course feeling slides.

As for the screen, I mean it’s a dot-matrix LCD and 128x64px at that. The original Nintendo Gameboy released in 1989 had a larger/higher res screen than that. In fact, I’m honestly surprised that they were able to even procure such a component in 2015.

Anyway, not to poke the SkyRC any further; it’s a capable charger. My main gripe is the cost vis-a-vis the half-baked nature of the product. At over $100 USD, it really shouldn’t have the issues it has and if the PC and smartphone apps were well implemented, the LCD screen wouldn’t even be an issue. It simply needed more time in the oven to justify the price tag and considering there’s essentially no after sale support, $75 should be the upper limit of its price after 5 years on the market.

Regarding the buttons, I must say I kind of hate most of not all I’ve touched or seen videos of. Today, in the year 2020, wouldn’t it be easy and cheap and reliable to have non-mechanical buttons like the Lii 500S? And talk about screens and UI and control, yes the 1980’s era b/w lcd is way gone. I may not love my bran new XTar vc4s 100%, but it seems to work, do as I need, and the screen is decent enough to look at… far from my idea of ideal, but to each their own.

Again, if we could only get the ISDT C4 UI with a “pro feeling” spring loaded cell holder with set and go basic functions as well as the ability to tweak/mod charge currents and “pretty good’ power, I’d be willing to pay the $100 price point for a 4 cell charge, analyze, store unit. Til then the $30 price point ish seems just good enough. All I really want to do is safe;y push current into batteries, cycle them once in a while, and store them. Yup, measuring capacity may be interesting and cool, may be needed in my 4 cell lights to match capacities???, but $30ish is a sweet spot.

I’m with you, hate the clicky buttons and awful screens on most chargers. Personally, I’d be happy with the MC3000 if only it could be operated completely (and reliably) using the smartphone interface but I’m pretty certain that’s not the case. Shame since most households have a few old phones lying about that could be dedicated to such a task.

I use mine 99% of the time with the phone ,it’s easier & quicker to set up ,the settings are stored so no searching for program numbers & which one does which program , in my opinion the only drawback with using the phone interface is you can’t have the phone too far away from the charger , it even sounds a notification when cells are finished.
Edit ,you can still walk away from the charger with phone or device that it’s connected to ,when you come back to the charger you just have to shut down the app then relaunch it & all dater & graphs are still there, Bluetooth only works for about 10 meters or so but it would be nice if it worked 100 meters away but for that it have to be radio waves instead of Bluetooth.