OK, just to clarify here so that nobody buys/fries their lights based on bad info: did you actually put 5x26650 fully charged, and for what amount of time? and it was “fine” and still works with no damage? Also what type of 26650? Protected or no?
yes it still work fine with 4 batteries… but I only tested for few seconds though
Amazon Warehouse Deals
Used Very Good - Fenix E12 - $16.16
Used - Very Good - Princeton Tec Quad Tactical - $7.64
Items listed as “Used - Very Good” can vary in condition. I’ve received items where only the seal on the packaging was broken and the contents appeared to be untouched, and I’ve also received items that were DOA. DOA items can be returned at Amazon’s expense.
Also, Amazon Warehouse Deals prices kind of act like a reverse auction. Prices slowly fall until the item sells. They can bounce up periodically but they fall again eventually.
Edit: both items sold, and quickly.
4TB Seagate External - $120
4TB WD External -$130
These can be shucked if you want internal.
Nice info about “Used – Very Good” and pricing. Thank you.
I haven't keep up on hard drives, but those look like some real good deals.
Save your money.. I ordered 1 too and I just got it today, it’s definitely is not as bright as the original 12 LEDs Supernight.. even though the picture on Amazon website shows Supernight on the light, but I got Ultrafire instead. . . .
Thanks for the info. Kronological is currently modding his driver in his TR-12xT6. Nothing radical. Just trying to boost the output modestly if I understand correctly. You might have the same driver.
this is a great idea IMO to have an AMZN specific one, thanks!
i dont know about quality as i have never owned a wallyshine but C8 for $5.10
That’s a no go. I bought 3. They had an xre/xpe. No heat sinking. Just a ledge under the led. Next mode memory. I gave 2 to friends and direct drove 1. They seem to hold up on the stock driver. But over heat and turn blue when direct driven.
Well at least they will be great for gifts for non-flashaholic family.
DC Fix is finally available on Amazon. $10.99 for a roll.
for a moment i thought this was a product to settle the DC vs Marvel debates :bigsmile:
I browse the Edison Bright storfront on Amazon monthly. They sometimes have a good deal on Olights.
I got a Olight M20S G2 for $29.95 shipped last week. It went up $10 this week.
AmazonBasics 8 Pack AAA Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries, 1000 Cycle (Typical 800mAh, Minimum 750mAh)
Made in Japan. Alleged to possibly be rebranded Panasonic/Eneloop cells. $10.49 for eight.
Be aware that the Anker USB portable battery boxes sold through Amazon list their capacity at 3.7V so the effective true output capacity at 5V is closer to 70% of the claimed mAh capacity. Checking around this seems to be an industry standard for virtually all of these portable USB power sources. I think it is deceptive advertising as I have yet to see a product listing which notes that the capacity listed is based on mAh at 3.7V battery capacity rather than at 5V output voltage. I want to know useful output capacity at 5V, not the capacity of the batteries in the box.
IMO even worse than ANSI flashlight run time being to 10% of output and throw distance being to a light level which can only show highly reflective objects.
UniqueFire UF-T20 zoom. Too late for Xmas as shipping from China but as good a price as I have seen for this light.
Great price on a mod host for dedomed XP-G2/driver… if this version has the glass aspheric lens. I believe many of the later versions are plastic, but the amazon reviews didnt confirm.
I do not share your opinion. While I would like to see more comprehensive data from the manufacturers and sellers of these packs, I do not think that what you’re seeing here is worse than the ANSI runtime standard, or particularly terrible really. Like a battery, actual available mAh will depend on load. At full load mAh should tank pretty spectacularly. At lower loads it will be much higher. Asking for the current [potentially] misleading single number to be replaced with a different potentially misleading single number is pointless. At least we know where this number comes from (it is directly copied from the cell manufacturer). Even if you specify test conditions a “mAh out” number would be mostly worthless. Without the spec, entirely worthless - it would have less merit than the currently advertised numbers IMO.
wight; I see your point but none of the USB battery power boxes seem to clearly state in their specifications that the capacity listed is at 3.7V. I noted it because SOME units list it on the power unit itself. As for changing capacity with different current draws most such units, except the highest power ones, are limited to outputs between 1 and 2 Amps at 5V and per HKJs 18650 battery reviews most decent batteries have quite close to the same capacity until the current draw becomes quite high.
My major objection is not so much that they specify things the way they do but that they carefully DO NOT MENTION that the capacity is listed for 3.7V as it seems apparent, based on customer reviews, that many are thinking that the capacity being listed is output capacity @ 5V. The capacity specifications listed are incomplete as long as the voltage involved, or the theoretical watt hours capacity, is not listed. One unit I have actually lists voltage and watt hours but only on the device itself, not in the Amazon listing. Not even a statement any where that the capacities listed are battery capacity rather than output capacity.
Give the customers full information on tech devices so the technically educated ones can make informed purchases with full knowledge of what they are getting.
IMO it doesn’t matter very much as long as we’re all playing by the same rulebook (where all manufacturer’s spec @ 3.7v). It allows easy comparison on the only metric these people can be semi-trusted about…
When it comes to output currents, this is where it may get trickier than you realize. The batteries will be fine at 2A, 3A, etc - they don’t sag at all. [Especially since they are in parallel of course!] The boost circuit? Not fine. Trying to get 2A or 3A @ 5v out of a bank of cells which is at less than 4v gets some pretty low efficiency out of those boost circuits I think. I’m assuming that’s where your most significant variations will be between chargers. That said, I’m not the most educated person on this subject so I’m happy to be proven wrong about the efficiency tanking.