Lumintop Tool AAA Coupon $6 off! https://www.vipon.com/product/6714556-LUMINTOP-TOOL-AAA-Mini-EDC-Keychain-amazon-coupons
Coupon code is VEC7F3MU
code active again for FW3 A54L8JHF.
I tried to buy a second time but the code did not work, and the code did not appear on the page as it did previously. The 10% discount was back though. Also out of stock presently.
Is the $4 EDC01 a good deal or what! I was about to buy a no name AA twisty for that same money. Too bad it’s cool white.
The FW3A arrived, it’s XP-L HI cool white (1A 6500K I guess if Lumintop is to be trusted). It has the newest MCPCB with screw hole, short-ish travel switch, all in one Lumintoptic w/ no glass.
I cant get the damn driver retaining ring off, going to need to try Illumn’s binder clip method.
They’re easy to mod (linky). The LED in my first EDC01 was swapped within 5 minutes of me opening the mail. Screw out the pill; de-solder the LED wires; lift out the MCPCB. If you’ve never reflowed before, this could be a cheap time to try! My first several reflows were just done in a skillet on top of the stove (due to the solder, it’s recommended not to use a pan that you use for cooking). I currently use a hotplate which is pretty nice if you have one available.
Just worked for me as well. Didn’t even check specs, at that price I panic bought it.
I still use a skillet but on AAA lights it’s even easier. I just use my iron on the bottom of the board. 16mm and up go to the skillet though
All the Lumintop deals are back right now 10;20 am EST on Vipon.
Be quick!
Go, Go Spend 
Feh. The EDC01 is only m/l/h (which I hate, despite stocking up on Xenos), and the FW3A is only in CW.
Pass…
Thanks! Maybe one day…
Any good sources for the LuxeonV2 at a descent price? Hate to pay $12+
I got my Amazon light today.
Totally the new version. Longer inner tube, one piece lens, black ring inside tail cap. The button looks very slightly larger, and the feel is a little different.
The grey finish is also slightly different too, it is a bit lighter and has a little more shine.
As usual, it did not work out of the box. Had to use an alcohol swab on the contact rings on the tailcap and driver.
I also removed the clip, honestly that could be an issue as well, might be preventing the tail from closing down all the way.
No matter, this time it took less than 5 minutes and it is all good.
Actually, I am pretty sure that is an issue. The tail has to be cranked down very hard to get the switch to work.
Loosen the head before you crank the tail down and it shouldn’t require as much pressure
That never fixed any of the 5 I own, they all needed some extra effort. BUT they all work now!
Do you have a DMM?
Yes, several in fact (because every time I put the wrong setting and then test AC I have to buy a new one).
Did/Could you check for continuity between the tail cap spring and tail cap threads.
. Reason being I had a tail cap that wouldn’t work or needed to be really reefed to work, with or with out the clip… even though the retainer ring was tight (very tight) but if I cranked the tail cap extremely tight it would work?
With the tail cap removed, the cap showed zero continuity between the spring and tail cap threads. The rubber boot has a seating ring/rim that fit’s down into a groove inside the tail cap, the retainer couldn’t seat or compress the boot and switch PCB against the tail cap to make contact with it, I filed the groove wider to allow the boot to compress/flatten out more, now with the retainer installed all works well, I also added some solder to the back of the switch PCB just to make sure.
When I screwed in the head I got the flash. That establishes continuity in this light. The issue, always, is with the switch signal, transmitted through the inner tube. I note that with the clip removed, loosening the cab just a few mm will defeat the switch. With the clip installed I am not sure it can tighten down that far. So that may be a part of the issue on virtually every one of these.