Amazon Deal Alerts & Discussion Thread

[Richie086]

@jimahi

@Tom E

Very easy to check the voltage of the 2 batts before plowing anything up. Could be right about the 2P setup.

Yep, very easy.

But, if it is a 2P configuration, then you HAVE to use their pack if you want to use the stock LED and driver. Either that or get a 26650 dummy cell. If folks plan to use two of their own 26650s with the stock configuration, they will likely let the smoke out. Since $13.50 is about the price of one good firework here, I guess it would not be too much of a loss

Just arrived. You and Tom were both correct. The cells are wired 2P, so I guess we have to use their battery pack or build a dummy cell, or replace the driver. I’ll see what others are
going to do, but for now I’ll try it out as is.

[n10sivern]

@Richie086

@jimahi

@Tom E

Very easy to check the voltage of the 2 batts before plowing anything up. Could be right about the 2P setup.

Yep, very easy.

But, if it is a 2P configuration, then you HAVE to use their pack if you want to use the stock LED and driver. Either that or get a 26650 dummy cell. If folks plan to use two of their own 26650s with the stock configuration, they will likely let the smoke out. Since $13.50 is about the price of one good firework here, I guess it would not be too much of a loss

Just arrived. You and Tom were both correct. The cells are wired 2P, so I guess we have to use their battery pack or build a dummy cell, or replace the driver. I’ll see what others are
going to do, but for now I’ll try it out as is.

What is the reflector size? Good thrower or is it more flood?

[Richie086]

**
[/quote]
What is the reflector size? Good thrower or is it more flood?
[/quote]
**

Reflector is 2-1/4” and should be a respectable thrower. Pretty deep reflector on this one.
The head seems to be glued on, so I can’t remove it to measure depth. I really like the look
and feel of this light and the easy to use side-switch. High-Low, and hold down for 3 sec for strobe.

Also, I get 3.68a on HIGH and over .9a on LOW mode.

[Tom_E]

Mine just arrived too. It's actually a decent beam, decent tint and well defined hot spot, though it has some artifact rings, probably from the protruding up centering piece. The top of the batt tube unthreads easily but couldn't budge the bezel by hand yet. I'll check it out in the office, take some measurements.

[Tom_E]

For the AlpsWolf K63:

On the batteries at ~4.0V, 1115 lumens on hi, 285 on low, 132 kcd taken at 5 meters on hi. 4.5 amps on hi, 1.08 amps on low.

Driver is 28.1 mm in diam, includes the charging circuitry, and includes a driver mounted switch.

Reflector I.D is about 57 mm and head diam is 70.7 mm.

I noticed something blocking the USB connector and realized it was a metal fragment. Tried to grab it with a tweezer and it fell in to the driver cavity -- not good, so I had to open it up. The piece is shown below, size compared with an e-switch:

Full view of the driver. Plenty of room for a sandwich driver, though losing the charging:

SFT40 would be near perfect for this light. Just above the LED appears to be a contaminant, think it's a loose particle of some sorts:

Tried opening the bezel with my sticky gloves and no luck. Need to get it on the bench with the strap wrench.

Don't expect much in quality - it's not a Convoy:

• crude pointy threads
• black anodizing rubbed off at a few edges, almost as if the flashlight was used. There was no packing bags and the lanyard was already attached to the flashlight, thinking that was odd
• the MCPCB appears to be mounted on a thin removable shelf, not a shelf that's one piece with the body
• amps seem to depend greatly on resistance - press the battery down harder on the spring, amps goes up, etc... The good thing is you could probably bump the amps easily with bypasses, better LED wires, etc.

Strap wrench didn't work on the bezel, but, I could get the MCPCB out from underneath! It's a 25 mm MCPCB, alum, and really looks like an SST-40 possible 5700K or so.

Another clearer look at the driver:

Really surprised the threaded connection at the base of the reflector was relatively easy. Usually those are fully glued, or press fit with no threads:

[kotobuki]

Pecenda max10000 Lumens Ultra bright USB Type-C rechargeable flashlight

$19.99 USD before 2 x extra 20% off, limited 01/account.
Just received my order, very hard to open it, all glued together. Build-in battery is 3P of 18650 (no name on it), capacity around 2000mAH/cell.
I can’t open the head so don’t know type of LED yet. Driver looks well designed.
Looks very bright to me, I may upgrade batteries to Samsung or LG high drain cell …

[Tom_E]

$12, pretty good deal, though glue is downright evil!

[kotobuki]

You may need rubber strap wrench to open it, I tried mine with locking pliers and it looks terrible now!!!

[Lightbringer]

How’s the portable bad? Is it any good, or actually, well, bad?

[goshdogit]

This Amazon listing for the Lumintop B01 bike light has a clickable 30% coupon.

It brings the price down to $28 before tax.

[nottawhackjob]

@kotobuki

You may need rubber strap wrench to open it, I tried mine with locking pliers and it looks terrible now!!! :person_facepalming:

Obviously this thread had a big impact on your approach. :person_facepalming: :laughing:

Do you destroy your flashes?...........

I see this a lot on a certain big modding thread. It’s amazing to me at least that some here consider it a “successful” mod when they hack up a nice expensive flash as a “last resort” to change for instance an LED/driver applying of all things a big a*s VICE GRIP to the body, pill, head, etc., with enough pressure to turn things into an OVAL or plain mar up the living sh*t out of it yet go on and on about how beautiful the flash, the finish, the anodizing, etc., WAS when they first received it i…

PS. A Notta hot tip…….Try the rubber strap wrench FIRST. :laughing: :student:

[kotobuki]

Ha ha, my bad!
But you knew it … when flashlight arrived, I tried my best to open it immediately!

[Tom_E]

Updated post #3851, keeping the K63 tear down info all together.

[CDylanC]

I got my everbeam E90 in today as well, I don’t know too much about lights but the UI is very simple high, med, low, strobe, sos. To turn off you hold the lighted button.
Good CRI compared to a very poor CRI light I have, maybe 5000k? the clip is alright, I have it on the tail end and it extends past the tailcap for super deep carry, pretty flimsy though and kinda pokey where it flares out to wrap around the tube.
I’m not sure how robust the rotating head is but the light has a good feel to it. It would be nice to have detents on the rotating head.
I like how it takes AA, NIMH, or lithium.
I’d rather it not have the blinky modes and instead have a slightly more complex UI with a momentary mode/lockout but for what it is the UI is fine. Also starting in low is better for this type UI imo.

[turkeydance]

12 123 for 21.
other deals, too.

Amazon Deal: Featured deals

[Rexlion]

Amazon would have to pay me to take Duraleaks…

[Scallywag]

@Rexlion

Amazon would have to pay me to take Duraleaks…

Their CR123s aren’t typically worse than anyone else’s.

[goshdogit]

Gas strut monitor mounting arm with 60% off clickable coupon brings the price down to $16 before taxes.

I couldn’t resist ordering one, and it should arrive tomorrow. I’ll report my findings.

I have two similar mounts, an Ergotron model and an AmazonBasics model that I will compare this new one to.

[Lightbringer]

@Scallywag

@Rexlion

Amazon would have to pay me to take Duraleaks…

Their CR123s aren’t typically worse than anyone else’s.

Yeh, different chemistry, so shouldn’t be too bad other than overpriced even at ~2bux a pop.

For my KL02s, I got a bunch of those Li-cells with built-in converter. They’re low-stress enough that the cells should work fine, and when they fizzle out (or preferably before), just recharge ’em.

I wouldn’t go the 16340 route with the ’02s because there’s no regulation other’n a resistor, they’d stress out the LED, and just plain overheat, in addition to having zero LVP.

The regulated 3V ones are about perfect for ’em.

I still got those Morpilot ’123s… somewhere… that I could use in a pinch, or even start burning ’em off rather than having them go to waste.

[ArtieT59]

@Tom E

For the AlpsWolf K63:

On the batteries at ~4.0V, 1115 lumens on hi, 285 on low, 132 kcd taken at 5 meters on hi. 4.5 amps on hi, 1.08 amps on low.

Driver is 28.1 mm in diam, includes the charging circuitry, and includes a driver mounted switch.

Reflector I.D is about 57 mm and head diam is 70.7 mm.

I noticed something blocking the USB connector and realized it was a metal fragment. Tried to grab it with a tweezer and it fell in to the driver cavity -- not good, so I had to open it up. The piece is shown below, size compared with an e-switch:

Full view of the driver. Plenty of room for a sandwich driver, though losing the charging:

SFT40 would be near perfect for this light. Just above the LED appears to be a contaminant, think it's a loose particle of some sorts:

Tried opening the bezel with my sticky gloves and no luck. Need to get it on the bench with the strap wrench.

Don't expect much in quality - it's not a Convoy:

• crude pointy threads
• black anodizing rubbed off at a few edges, almost as if the flashlight was used. There was no packing bags and the lanyard was already attached to the flashlight, thinking that was odd
• the MCPCB appears to be mounted on a thin removable shelf, not a shelf that's one piece with the body
• amps seem to depend greatly on resistance - press the battery down harder on the spring, amps goes up, etc... The good thing is you could probably bump the amps easily with bypasses, better LED wires, etc.

Strap wrench didn't work on the bezel, but, I could get the MCPCB out from underneath! It's a 25 mm MCPCB, alum, and really looks like an SST-40 possible 5700K or so.

Another clearer look at the driver:

Really surprised the threaded connection at the base of the reflector was relatively easy. Usually those are fully glued, or press fit with no threads:

Damn ,this looks like a pretty DECENT light for under $30. I like the head/reflector size and throw. I have a bunch of SFT40's coming in, maybe ill grab this alpswolf and try one, and swap out some of the wires while im at it.

Just FYI - I don't know if you ever try this but i have had REALLY good results with this approach on Badly Glued on Bezels. -i have a Wagner dual temp 1200 watt (or so, cant remember exact model without going out to the barn) Heat gun, i just run it on the low setting on high output for a couple of minutes moving it aorund the head of the light. Then use think gritty rubber gloves (gardening gloves) so i dont brun my hands or scratch the bezel/head, and my success rate is well 100% lol. If you havent tried it, maybe consider. it works better than strap wrenches for me. Sometimes i have to put the head in the bench top vise after heating it, but it still works well. Ive rigged the bench top vise with high density foam wrapping jaws - gives good grip and protection