Thanks, it work!
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Guys, I’m not good at all that IT stuff so a help would be appreciated a lot.
I’m playing with my Q8 PLUS and wanted to update Anduril but I got confused when choosing the hex file.
Current Anduril version is 202202080614 which I understand as build date 2022/02/08 and 0614 model number. So I went to the database but the model number seems to be assigned to SP36, not Q8+
Should I upload 0614 model anyway? Or stick to files dedicated for Q8+?
Just for info. Sofirn IF25A also uses 0614 firmware.
I would stick to the model number that is currently in your flashlight.
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That’s the one I’m using in mine… It’s correct.
There’s a fair bit of model overlap with Anduril and some configurations, rather than just tack on a new name for a specific model which uses the same code, we just have to take the step to make sure we’ve got the right version number.
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My Wurkkos TS10 V2 Copper tells me the version is 0000-2024-0420. I don’t have reflashing kit for Wurkkos yet, but I’m not sure which model should be used in the future. My Green TS10 V2 is 0713-2023-0729, so 0713 would not be bad for Copper one, I guess.
0713 attiny1616 wurkkos-ts10-rgbaux
My Q8 Plus has always run the 0614 model firmware, through multiple updates, and with no issues.
I’m not sure, but I think the “-q8-” files are for the Q8 Pro, not the Q8 Plus. But anyway, 0614 is what you want.
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It needs 0712 wurkkos-ts10-rgbaux-lowfet. Don’t use 0713 as it might damage the LEDs.
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I appreciate your advice. I could never find the answer. Would 0712 be safer for green TS10 V2? Green 0712 is brighter and hotter than 0000 copper one. Thank you for your help again.
If you think the output is too high in your model, you can try the lowfet version. It’s definitely the safer variant that I’d recommend for all TS10.
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Thank you for your advice again. My green TS10 V2 0713 gets very hot in 10 seconds in Turbo. I would change it for lowfet version when I get reflashing kit. Thanks a lot.
In any case, be mindful that such a diminuitive light doesn’t have much heatsinking capability to begin with, so anything over 200ish lumens is going to get warm regardless of what firmware you run. Turbo, or any lumens over 300ish lumens is going to get uncomfortably warm, and at around 400 lumens it’s going to start slow cooking your hands. Regardless of the body material of the ts10, it’s going to heat up QUICK on 300+ lumens, as it just doesn’t have the mass to sustain that output for long.
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Thank you all for help. Indeed uploading the same model (0614) worked fine.
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Hello everyone!
I’ve had the flashlight bug for decades, and I am finally interested in taking the plunge into updating/flashing firmwares on my collection!
Thank you all of this great resource - yall plus anduril.click will likely get me over that line.
To start off I have 2 Fireflies L60MU lights - when I do a version check on them I get the model number of 0462, and I can pull up the lone oceans firmware page here: Loneoceans Lume-series Flashlights - but past the initial model number I can’t seem to parse the flashes my light is telling me, and finding a more updated and compiled firmware is proving challenging. What steps ought I consider taking? Am I in the “need to compile it yourself” territory now? Email FF?
Thanks everyone! Once I get in a flashing kit I’m interested in flashing a triple channel Hank light that I bought from r/flashlight’s BST thread. When I do a version check it tells me the moon landing date. The light has a strange power ramp that would be wonderful if an updated firmware would fix - but I’m not sure if I can just send this ‘0151 attiny1634 hank-emisar-d4k-3ch’ hex and call it a day or what. Again, appreciate this community - I’ve lurked for a long while and learned a lot!
edit: just put in my first anduril firmware update on my d3aa!
edit 2: I’m on a roll, and am wanting to backup and then update this old fireflies t9r (with sbt90.2!), but I’m at a pause because I can’t figure/make out the markings on this driver, and I do not want to align my flashing tool incorrectly (I assume that would be not good). Can anyone help me make sense of ‘V - UP’ as my pad labels? https://i.imgur.com/lADzud9.png (again, first post, not sure how to embed images inline properly)
Pin 2 GND = TS30S PRO “G”, TS10 “-”, T9R “-”.
Pin 4 Vtref = TS30S PRO “V”, TS10 “+”, T9R “V”.
Pin 6 nSRST = TS30S PRO “D”, TS10 “R”, T9R “UP”.
I appreciate your advice. My green TS10 V2 gets too hot compared to other flashlights such as TS10 V2 copper, Convoy M21B LHP73B, and Lumintop FW21 X9L (SBT90.2) in short time. I will limit the output not to cook myself.
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Thank you, very much appreciate this information!
Now when the hank flashing kit gets in I’ll go hog wild.